bigrank916

Still looking for an update here...this has gone on long enuf. Im shifting from waiting patiently to getting irritated. Send me the items i payed for. 9 months have gone by. I see they are available to buy in the store. WTF?????

Any update on this yet?

Yes it is order #1909 from 1800woofers.com. The purchase was on Dec 23rd.

Ok cause I'm still waiting on a pair of them to be shipped from a back order. Do you need my info again?

Did those ever get shipped out yet?

Any update on when the Evil 4ohm mids are to be in?? I've been waiting on the back order for 5 months now. I ordered some with sig but I'll take a plain set at this point.

Thanks bro. I have way too much time and effort invested into this car to change course now. She makes me mad but I guess we put up with it from all ladies lol

Well an update...I bought a new key for $300 and it did not solve my issue. I went back to the drawing board and tried to diagnose further. Took apart the dash and removed the EIS. Was contemplating sending it to a company in BC for diag/repair but decided against it. It sat on my desk for about 3 days and then I tried putting it back in...IT WORKED!!! First time and every time since I've put the key in, the system unlocks the steering and then authorizes the key to turn and start. Fires right up every time. Even my oldest key that went "bad" is now working with a new case but same guts even tho it did not work before I removed the EIS. Yes, yes I know by just removing the EIS, it will not fix itself or reset anything. It seems to coincidental. Now my question is wtf just happened??? I'm fixing other probs that aren't as important as this in the dash like the linkage arms for my AC stepper motor but won't get here till next week. So I have a week to keep poking around before I'm going to want to button this up and move forward. Just hate putting it all back together when I never actually found the prob to fix. Took a meter to my ESL and found it was putting out the proper voltage at all the key positions. So now I have 3 keys that all work to start the car (also have the new 4 button so I can pop my trunk w/o a key!!) but no reasoning in why this was happening. Most MB techs will say 85-90% of the time, it is the ESL that is the prob. Not the EIS but they love changing both just to make you spend more money and really feel like an MB owner Sending my EIS and all 3 keys to BC is about $225 including shipping. Buying an SDS from Craigslist is $600 and the icarsoft MBll scanner is $150. I'm leaning towards purchasing the SDS as it can do waaaay more shit. I joined MBWorld and have been getting a ton of help there but now hit a snag. Still waiting for more techy advice lol

i would give my left nut to get a ride along in one of those!!!

I tried that first J. 3 different fuses for starting and all were good. I even ran thru the fuses before I started the install of the HU and made sure all was good. Its crazy because all the probs I've been having are since the car has been sitting. Before I took apart the car I had none of these issues. I'm betting that my electrical probs with the bad alty caused some of my other electrical components to take a shit unexpectedly. I'm gonna sleep on it for a few days but I think its been enuf of a headache.

I must have THE worst fucking luck. I get my stereo all wired up and putting together the dash when my key suddenly wont work in the ignition anymore. This key is only 6 years old. Still works for the doors and filler flap tho. I bought it from the dealership when my last one did the same thing and left me stranded. Now its in a carport with the windows down and I cant get them up or move the car. I've searched the net and come up with 3 options. The key, electronic ignition system, or the steering wheel lock. The key is about $200. The EIS can be $1k-$1500, and Idk what the ESL would be. I think this car has finally broke me down. I constantly have had nothing but probs since taking it apart to install a fucking stereo. I'm about to list it on Craigslist for parts. I thot I was making major progress until this. I can't stand putting hundreds if not a $1k or more when its barely worth $1500...ruining my whole fucking vibe today

Got the HU wires figured out and it powered up. Gonna install the rcas cables and remote wire today if it stops raining. Had a question about the 80PRS. It says to flip the DSP switch from standard mode to network mode if using multiple amps. Then reset the microprocessor. How would one go about doing that? I think I figured out the alarm/locking/light prob tho. Door switch on the driver side must be bad. I get door ajar messages on the dash when the door is closed and driving. That is coming on Monday. Now that I've got a few things fixed electrically this build should pick up speed along with the good weather.

Actually the Q can be ported or sealed. The BTL is ported only. Never heard the Q but I owned a BTL about 10 years ago and it was the best sub I'd ever had. If you like to bang pretty loud and enjoy some earth shaking lows, I'd go with a BTL.

Been slowly getting at this build as the new year comes along. I installed the new headliner and it looks great. Still trying to find the damn wires to hook up the HU tho. I bought a new Bosch OEM alt for it and installed that about a month ago as well because the old one failed even tho it wasn't being driven. 18 years old tho so it went thru its lifespan I guess.

Everything has been sent except for the mids that are still on back order. I really appreciate you guys taking care of that. Thank you!