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best 12 inch subs for SEALED box 1000rms range
///M5 replied to akuma4u's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
Wow. Absolute morons shouldn't answer threads for them lol -
On axis always means pointing right at your head. Nothing else. Tweeters sound like crap pointed like that, but full ranges sound like crap if they don't. Perhaps that sways you to the tweeter...
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Depends. With heavy metal, on-axis can be problematic, especially with the driver's side tweeter. I guess by on-axis, what I really mean is aimed toward the imagery listening position between the where the driver and passenger sit. Semi-on-axis I guess.....
- Yesterday
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Can't say that an on axis tweeter has ever sounded the best to me on the a pillar. Full ranger absolutely but tweeter not usually. Big difference when using a driver with good off axis response and not up there as well though.
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best 12 inch subs for SEALED box 1000rms range
Notorious97200 replied to akuma4u's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
Get some Xcons, and forget everything. You will never regret that purchase. -
best 12 inch subs for SEALED box 1000rms range
akuma4u replied to akuma4u's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
i found the review from sonicelectronix stating the damage by underpowering subs.. also the second review, the guy says the same thing.. -
The midbass is going in the door. The tweeter will go in the a-pillar, it may be on or off axis depending on how testing works when I get the actual tweeter in hand. I suspect I'll end up on-axis, especially if I go with the NVX ring radiator tweeter; the Alpine & Vifa Xt's definitely sounded better on-axis. I've done enough installs to know that a lower crossover point will prevent rainbowing and the stage pulling to the passenger side. Ideally, I'd cross at ~300hz, but I do want to keep the car looking stock and running multiple drivers in the a-pillar location presents some fabrication challenges, drives up the cost, etc. A few years ago I wouldn't hesitate to take on the project, but now that I have kids, I have less time and money to dedicate to car audio. At least I still have my Pioneer p9 combo so I have pretty significant processing power.
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Should really focus on the mounting locations before picking driver and crossover frequency. Aiming and location would be exactly how I'd then narrow down both the driver and crossover point.
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Just don't leave the cheap ones plugged in all the time.
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I've also got one of the ODB Link SX cables for hooking up to the laptop.
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Just go on Amazon and buy a cheap-o bluetooth one. Last one I bought was 8$ on sale I think.
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I had to drive the truck for a week and even it is limping. There is brake fluid pissing out the backside of the master. So that will be the next damn thing to fix. I don't know why shit always has to break all at once.
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My check engine light came back on in the daily. She has ran great since I reset the codes. At least I know it is a sensor, and not an injector or something catastrophic to that degree. Hoping I can get a parts store to break out a OBDII reader. I'm assuming it's either the MAF or one of the O2 sensors. With any luck they can point me in the right direction so I don't have to spend all day testing sensors.
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I was pretty bummed the pump the neighbor gave me wouldn't fit, as it was the high output factory replacement.
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I ordered the Edelbrock mechanical from Summit racing this morning. The holley is made in Korea and the Edelbrock is made in the USA. Thank you for all the input guys.
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55 degrees and raining here. Fall hit with vengeance.
- Last week
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Wtf am I doing wrong head unit only works hard wired yellow to red?
Infinite913 replied to Jeremy90's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Run a switch and cut the power yourself as a 2nd but im with tire if no face to draw power it shouldnt. -
Hot here too. Supposed to cool down next week.
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Wtf am I doing wrong head unit only works hard wired yellow to red?
Tirefryr replied to Jeremy90's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
No, as long as the unit de-energizes when the faceplate is removed. You could just as easily shut the unit off before removing the face just to be certain. -
Yeah, we're dealing with 90s here. I usually start growing my hair out in October, but it's been so chilly the past 3 weeks, I started early. I was half-tempted to shave yesterday, but I know the moment I do, it will turn cold again, so fuck it.
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Landed at 1am here in minny. Was 86 degrees which was warmer than my whole 2 weeks in socal
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I honestly don't know but that would be my guess. That or worn out to the point it is seizing up. The rebuild kit would be for people that are trying to keep concourse correct, and relatively they want an arm and a leg for them. The factory pump only puts out 30 gph, and the aftermarket HO does 110gph. Being my MO on this car has always kind of been a superstock rally sport kinda theme, I think the Holley mechanical is the obvious choice.
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Wtf am I doing wrong head unit only works hard wired yellow to red?
Jeremy90 replied to Jeremy90's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
I'll have to get one I appreciate all the help.. it's a 1998 Plymouth voyeger and the deck is pioneer I got from a scrap yard by my house it was used an iv owed it for a couple years now.. question tho if I leave it hard wired an take the face off will it still draw power -
There just isn't much to a mechanical pump. Did the diaphragm rupture?
