BanginGMC

Maximum theoretical difference: 10*log(Power1/Power2) 10*log(9000/7000) = 1.1db A 1.1db difference wouldn't really be audible to begin with, so we can scratch "noticeably louder" off of the list of possibilities as the audible difference would amount to pretty much zero even under idealized, unrealistic conditions. Also, that formula doesn't account for power compression, which your subwoofers will be experiencing. At a level of 9kw, they will be experiencing a significant amount of power compression. How much power compression you'll experience depends on the thermal capabilities of your drivers and their mechanical behavior in the enclosure.....but realistically it will be significantly less than 1.1db on a meter, possibly even zero if the amount of power compression is high enough. Thanks man

BUMP

You know I want one, but even if I was able to get the subs mounted good I don't know how much room I can spare with me bagging my truck.

I don't care what anyone says but Princess and Diamond will smash on Niki M all day long.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVc8y2JCcFk

I know we have, but shit I wish it would work out like I want it too lol. I like the pressure and everything that comes along with, no other thing in the world is like it If my system was just for competition I'd be upgrading power a lot, like you say.. but it was built for daily. But Thanks Shizz

I knew i'd get flamed for asking how much of a difference. I was hoping someone could do a formula or some shit and tell me how much of a decibel gain, but if I will not hear or feel a difference there is no point in upgrading. Thanks Sean.

I have 4 7inch Carbon Fiber AAs and a SAX 100.4D with a Alpine ida-x305s. My problem I have is when I turn the volume up on my head unit to the volume where my subs play great at the 7" AAs cannot keep up and I start to smell them very strongly, if i play them at a level where the AAs are playing fine my subs are barely moving and the volume on the head unit isn't close to where I set it at regularly. I had a previous front stage of (2) Alpine Type R component sets and they played amazing at the level I play my subs at.. because of this i have cut the remote wire on my 100.4 and have not been enjoying them. I don't know if it's because of the install/leaky door.. or if it''s because i need an equalizer. I have the AAs crossed at 80ish hz 2500ish hz on my 100.4 If you need anymore information let me know please. Thanks, Dom Here is some pictures of my door -- AA Carbon fibers are where the Type Rs are.

Its all good andrew and adrian thanks man

Thanks guys! The wife surprised me and came to the city i'm working at and brought me cupcakes for me and the guys she spent the night with me at the hotel and gave me my presents a Louis Vuitton wallet and a lil somethin somethin on the side

Please someone correct me if i am wrong, i am going to strap my Sundown Audio 3500Ds and this will be my first time strapping amps, so i need to see if i am thinking correctly. The Master amp gets the input from the head-unit and a mono RCA from "BR Out" connected. The Slave amp ONLY gets "BR In" connected from the Master amp, leave the Gain and other Filters on the Slave amp set to 0. Each amp gets its own remote wire coming from the head-unit. Each amp gets its own Power and Ground. Connect NEG terminals of both amps together using 8AWG wires Wire my subs like so; Then take the POS wire from my sub and put it in the Master amps (far left) positive terminal, then take the NEG wire from my sub and put it in the Slaves amps (far left) positive terminal, ending up with (2) empty terminals (far right ~ positive) If anything is wrong please let me know.

haha

I am planning on finally stepping up the entertainment system in my room like i've planned for a while, this is going to be strictly for Gaming and Movies. Luckily for me, the foot print of the room isn't huge.. so a lot of big equipment won't be needed, I can get measurements of the room if necessary. Before I get ahead of myself with listing equipment, right now I need suggestions on the following: *Home Theater in a Box 7.1 or 5.1 surround system w/ a receiver to power them that's compatible with a gaming console such as an Xbox360 and PS3 (The budget is roughly 700.00) *Projector with a really high resolution. (The budget is roughly 1000.00) *Projection Screen 50"+ (The budget is roughly 400.00) Now, if i could get a great 50"+ TV for around the price of the Projector and screen put together, i'll definitely go with that.. seeing as mounting the projector will be tricky, but I am looking for the best bang for my buck So generally the overall budget is roughly 2100.00 but as you can see I have a higher budget for whats more important to me in the build.. BUT if necessary, I will spend more. One Projector I was looking at was Epson - PowerLite Home Cinema 8100 Projector A motorized screen would be kick ass, but those can get expensive as i'm seeing on BestBuy.com. The lighting in the room can be completely dark because i know sunlight can effect the picture on the screen.. but that isn't an issue here. The length I would be having the Projector on would vary from 1-8 hours at a time, possibly more if I pull an all nighter. I have looked into TV's, but i haven't really been confident with my choices because i suck at buying TV's. List of TV's from BestBuy.com i've been looking at. I would like to buy locally, just in case something goes wrong I can return it to the store and talk to the people face to face.. but if not, that's okay too. Also, for reference, games I play are the Call Of Duty's, and the volume would be more then halfway up as I play.. so the HTIB would have to be able to handle that. Please let me know if I left any information out that would help you help me Thanks, Dom.

Gucci fuckin' kills it, fuck what he says.. it's how he says it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYl6KdCChM4

You knoowww! hahaha

hahahah works for me

Shitty situation, her mom sounds like a cunt.. it is indeed only a camera though and if this is stressing you out a lot say "fuck it" and let the camera go.. Be sure to not drag out the situation because you are mad about the drama between you and the chick and not mad about the camera. If it were me, and that happened.. i'd say fuck you and the camera, then get at another chick.

SO I should look at replacing the rear deck as well? I've heard alot of good things about the Bravox speakers and have been seriously considering getting a pair. I dont want to go with RE audio, at all. What should I be looking at amp wise for powering a set of the type R's ? My opinion yes, look into the rears. I used a PDX series amp from them, they're so small and i loved it. Bravoxs should not let you down.

First, get a speaker adaption ring or make a MDF ring to house a 6.5 speaker, this will give you WAY more options. Second, i'd bother with the rears. I've owned Alpine Type R's and they got loud as fuck and sounded nice doing so 140 shipped on eBay brand new in the box. Bravox are nice supposedly, but i've never heard any.. owned a set though. 7" Carbon Fiber mids are nice too, i'm running active with them now. RE XXX components are suppose to be good as well.

Amp in Protect Mode - Troubleshooting Foreword: I get so many questions about amplifiers going into protection (or blowing fuses after remote turn-on voltage is applied) that I've decided to provide a page to help determine if the amplifier is faulty or if a fault in the system is causing a problem. Notes: Many amplifiers will illuminate their protect LED during the mute delay (when you initially power up the amplifier). After a short delay (2-10 seconds), the protect LED will go off. For those amplifiers this is normal. Other amplifiers ONLY illuminate the protect LED when there is a problem. If you know how your amplifier behaves when the amp is in good working order, it will make troubleshooting much easier. If you are unsure about this, you can email me or ask someone on a forum where they're familiar with the amplifier you have. For the most part, this page is for amplifiers that go into protect mode and remain in protect mode or go into protect mode when the amplifier is driven hard. Many times, the protection indicator will blink to indicate the reason the amp is in protect mode. The owner's manual is the best source to help you decode the blink sequence. This is common on older Alpine amplifiers. Not all amps have a protection mode indicator. Some simply shut down and the power light will not illuminate when in protect mode. If the power light blinks then goes off, the amp is either going into protect mode or there is a bad connection in the power supply wiring. Generally, the power light is green or blue and the protect light is red but on some amps, the protect light is green and the power light is red. Look at the silkscreen on the amplifier to confirm the function of the LEDs Some amplifiers have multiple protect lights. For example, some of the Sony amplifiers have lights for power, overcurrent and thermal protection. The lights are always lit when the amp powers up but are normally green. When there is a fault, the LED changes from green to amber. Many amplifiers show protect when initially powered up (mute delay) and then switch to green. Sometimes it's a single LED that changes color (PPI). Sometimes it switches the red LED off and switches the green on (Planet Audio, Power Acoustik and similar amps). Some (like the old Autoteks) light the green LED and red LED initially then the red LED switches off. In MANY amplifiers, the power LED will be lit but the amplifier will be completely dead internally. This is especially true when the power supply has failed. There are a few amps (some JL Audio) that will go into protect and none of the indicators change. This happens when the voltage drops too low when the amp is being driven hard with an insufficient power supply. Sometimes, a VERY brief drop in voltage (too short to be seen on a standard multimeter) will cause the amp to shut down for a short while. Again... It's helpful to know how the amplifier behaves when working properly. If your amp is working properly, pay attention the way the indicators light up when powering the amp up. If you don't know how they're supposed to behave, ask around. Step 1 On-board Fuses: The first thing you need to check is the on-board fuses plugged into the amplifier (if it has them). Not many amplifiers will illuminate the protection light when the fuses are blown but a few will so you need to check this. If the fuse holders are melted, you need to have the amp checked by a technician to determine why they melted and to determine if the fuse holders are usable. Generally, when the fuse holder melts, the contacts become badly oxidized and the clips lose their tempering. This means that they can no longer function properly and will continue to overheat. For those who don't know what a blown fuse looks like, the one on the left below is blown. The one on the right is OK. Step 2 B+ and Remote Voltage: Not all amps have low voltage protection but some do (MTX, Rockford and most of the Japanese brands). This means that you must confirm that you have sufficient voltage reaching the amplifier for it to operate properly. With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ (battery +) and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low. Normally, both will be above 12v. It's important that you leave your head unit on during testing so that the remote line will have voltage on it, the amplifier will be on, and the amplifier will be drawing current. Sometimes the voltage will only drop when current is being drawn from the power source. If the amp only shuts down when the amplifier tries to produce high power (when it hits a strong note), you need to measure the voltage at the time when the amp shuts down. The voltage drop should be minimal when the amp is producing/trying to produce significant output. If it's dropping below ~11v, you need to determine why. If you have confirmed that you have sufficient voltage on the amplifier's B+ and remote terminals and have a good ground, procede to step 3. Important! Above, I purposely recommend placing the black probe of the meter on the ground terminal of the amp. If you place it on a chassis ground point in the vehicle and there is a bad connection between the amplifier ground terminal and the chassis ground, it will appear that the amplifier has sufficient voltage at the B+ and remote terminals (assuming that the feeds to those are intact). Bad Ground? If the voltage at BOTH the B+ and remote terminals is low and your vehicle's battery is not low (check the voltage at the battery with the multimeter), touch the black lead to a known good ground (a point scraped to the metal on the floor pan of the vehicle) and the red lead to the ground terminal of the amp. If you read more than 0.01v and the amp is at idle, you may have a bad ground. If you read over 0.1v, you definitely have a bad ground. If you find that the B+ or remote voltage is low at the amplifier, you need to trace the voltage back to the source to determine where the voltage is dropping. At each connection, fuse or other point where the wire is not continuous, check the voltage. You need to check the voltage on BOTH sides of each connector and fuse holder. Since the meter leads are not long enough to reach the grounds at the battery or trunk over the long run of the power wire, you need to scratch the paint/primer/undercoat to bare metal at each point where you need to check the voltage. If you find that the voltage is good on one side of a connector or fuse but not on the other side of the connector/fuse, you need to replace the connector or fuse. In some cases, the connections between the wire and the fuse holder will be a problem. You will also see defective fuse holders. Clues to a Bad Connection: Generally, when there is a bad connection and the connection has been bad for an extended period of time, the insulating material around the connector will be melted. The image below shows a terminal block that melted because the set screw wasn't tight enough on the wire (this is very common). In this particular amp, the damage was so bad that the block melted the solder and pulled out of the board. Fuses - Open But Not 'Blown': Also, just because a fuse doesn't look blown, that doesn't mean it's intact. If there's a question, pull the fuse from the holder and measure the resistance across it (set meter to ohms). The resistance across fuses rated more than a few amps will be essentially 0 ohms. Most meters will not read to 0 ohms. To know how low your meter reads at 0 ohms, touch the leads together for 5 seconds. This is what you should read when you touch the meter across the fuse (out of the fuse holder). The following demo is from the Installation Primer page of my Basic Car Audio Electronics site. At every point where there is a green indicator, you should check the voltage. Using the demo should help you to better understand where you'd lose voltage when there is a break in the circuit. Step 3 If the voltage remains near or above 12v but the amp still goes into protect mode, disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. It's important that you disconnect the speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amplifier and disconnect all RCA cables from the RCA jacks of the amplifier. If the amp powers up after disconnecting the speaker and signal cables from it, try reconnecting the RCA cables. If the amp goes into protect with the RCA cables plugged in, go to step 4. If it doesn't go into protect, reconnect one pair of speaker wires at a time. If you're using a mono amp and have only one pair of speaker wires, you'll need to disconnect all but one speaker from the other end of the speaker wires. If you find that one pair of speaker wires or one speaker causes the amp to go into protect, disconnect all speakers from the other end of the wires and separate the wires so they can't touch. If the amp still goes into protect, you have a bad speaker wire or the wire is shorted to chassis ground. If the amp only goes into protect when one particular speaker is connected to the amp, you have a defective speaker. . Step 4 If the amplifier goes into protect with the RCAs plugged in (but all speaker wires disconnected), there could be several problems. You first need to check the RCA shields of the head unit. THIS link takes you to a page where it's explained in detail. If the shield ground of the head unit is OK, the amplifier could have one of several problems. You need to power up the amplifier and measure the voltage on the shields (shiny outer metal ring) of the RCA jacks. Touch the black meter probe to the ground terminal of the amp and the red meter probe to each of the RCA shields. If you read 10v or more, the amplifier may have a shorted transformer. If you read something less than 1v, the transformer is likely OK. Some amplifiers have a problem with broken connections between the RCA shield and the circuit board. This is sometimes difficult to check unless you know how the input circuitry of the amplifier is designed. In most of the budget amplifiers, the shield will be directly connected to the NON-bridging speaker terminals. If you have that connection, the shield ground connection is intact. Sometimes, the connection is intermittent so you need to move the RCAs while you're checking to insure that the connection is solid. Shorted Output Transistors If the amp goes into protect with no RCA or speaker cables connected to it or if the amplifier blows the fuse AFTER remote voltage is applied, the amplifier likely has shorted output transistors. If that's the case, the amplifier will need to be repaired. If you'd like to repair it yourself, read the Amplifier Repair Primer page. It will help you troubleshoot many amps down to the component level. Yes i typed all this out, you're welcome. http://www.bcae1.com/repairbasicsforbcae1/troubleshootingbasicsampinprotect.htm

SMD Dave, you know!

September 20th... December 10th... AZ time zone*

No. Get Audioque.

How are the components treatin' you?