007
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Posts posted by 007
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for home audio:
Klispch
Wisdom Audio
Krell
Definitive
Energy / Mirage / API
Rockets / Onix
SVS
Sunfire
Rythmic
Soundspliter
for pro audio:
Bassmax
Worxaudio
JBL
Meyer
for car audio:
Eclipse
Soundsplinter
favorite company:
TC Sounds
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i was interested at first in 2 12" Resonant Engineering SXs or XXX's and then just a few days ago their prices basically tripledso i went crazy looking through the internet for something cheaper ($500 ot under for 2 12" subs) and i heard about the RL-Ps on other forums and heard nothing but good things about them. and $440 for 2 subs, if theyre REAL good is amazing to me..
now honestly i dont know much about systems...this is gonna be my first one (i read alot about them though and know many people with a system). and im reading the description for the RL-Ps and it says 500 watts rms. the XXX i was hoping for was 1600 rms. now just reading that makes me think the RL-P is ALOT weaker. but reading about these subs, it seems like im wrong....(forgive me if i am, i never heard of these subs til today and dont know anything about them)
can someone let me know though on what other subs they can be comparable to and if theyre anywhere near the XXXs level?(the old style XXX...not the new monsters)
also...if i get them, what amp can you recommend thats under $250 to make them hit as hard as possible?....without risking the chance of blowing them of course haha
by the way...i got a 2005 Grand Am (hope 2 of these would fit in there)
well said, btw, is new RE XXX that really tall black subwoofer with yellow spider and a half dome poll cap?
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i was interested at first in 2 12" Resonant Engineering SXs or XXX's and then just a few days ago their prices basically tripledso i went crazy looking through the internet for something cheaper ($500 ot under for 2 12" subs) and i heard about the RL-Ps on other forums and heard nothing but good things about them. and $440 for 2 subs, if theyre REAL good is amazing to me..
now honestly i dont know much about systems...this is gonna be my first one (i read alot about them though and know many people with a system). and im reading the description for the RL-Ps and it says 500 watts rms. the XXX i was hoping for was 1600 rms. now just reading that makes me think the RL-P is ALOT weaker. but reading about these subs, it seems like im wrong....(forgive me if i am, i never heard of these subs til today and dont know anything about them)
can someone let me know though on what other subs they can be comparable to and if theyre anywhere near the XXXs level?(the old style XXX...not the new monsters)
also...if i get them, what amp can you recommend thats under $250 to make them hit as hard as possible?....without risking the chance of blowing them of course haha
by the way...i got a 2005 Grand Am (hope 2 of these would fit in there)
lets me see if I can shed some light here. The RLp's are rated at what? 500 watts? They can and have been proven to take more. It is true that newbie
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with 29hz tuning frequency and that box size with that port area, I take it the lenght of your port is 30" in each subwoofer
Is that the case?
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I got an awesome deal on something called fibercore, which I guess is mdf with red oak veneer on both sides.0 -
RLp's are a step up from W7's as far as quality goes imo. The W7's have a massive surround that adds a lot of distortion. The W7's will play a bit louder than a RLp inch for inch (of course, the 15 rlp will kill the 12w7 for SPL and it will dig a lot deeper). If you want to out do the W7's get teh RLs, it will actaully play louder and best it with ease for qulaity. It also has a high roll surround which allows maxium cone area and maxium travel. Its an ideal surround for SPL + quality.
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i have enough room for both i have already torn out my back seat and have about 16 cubic ft in the back of my extended cab truck . power wise i was going to use the soundstream for the rl-s cause there rated 1100 @ 4ohms but if theres another amp that will do better im up for suggestions . As for competeing im not sure as of yet i want to but not realy sure. i do want to get crazy loud but i do still want a little sq.You can run the dual RL-s's in parallel and get the DCR below 2 ohms. I don't know anything about the XXX's, but the RL-'s hold the title for king of low distortion, so they can go about 6dB higher than a non linear driver of equal design at the same tolerance of THD. Also because of the high surround, they have a very high xmax and can be overdriven pretty darn far too, almost 4" peak to peak.
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im kinda interested in the rl-s 15's and wondering what type of tc sounds motor they use . also im debating on going with 3 XXX 15's useing three Soundstream PCA2000D or 2 rl-s 15's useing two Soundstream PCA2000D. what your opinions on either setup . ohh would 220 alt be enough or would i need more powerIt is its own custom motor. The RL-s's will sound the cleanest.
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Yesterday I drove my car through one of those touch free car washes cuz I was lazy. Well today I opened up my trunk and saw grey spots splattered all over my box. Somehow the water from the car wash got in my trunk. I look at my sub and the cone is discolored from whatever was used to wash my car. The middle of the cone where the water was sitting is very faded and when the sub hit, the water splattered all over the cone.Does anyone know a way that I could take all the color out of the cone so the whole cone will be the same color? The cone looks horrible right now. Any ideas would be great.
Thanks,
Matt
Just paint it. I'm relly not sure which paint to use to be honest, but that's what I would try. Look for some metal spray paints.
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No, 1200ea. I currently have 900 to each right now.so 1200 split by two RL-ps? they should be able to take that power easily. i'm sending ~1k to my rl-p 15, and it's fine. just tune it correctly and you shouldn't run into any issues.They will be fine, are you wiring them in parallel?
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but the question is will people know that the RL-s is the monster LMT?We're going to start overhauling our platform and renaming our drivers. I think LMT is going to be renamed to LMS (linear motor series) because Linear motor technology is trade marked already.
We
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If you get plans i wouldnt mind making a TL for my e8a0 -
I am currently runnign 2 13kv2's sealed with about 450 per sub. I metered it at about 132 in the trunk of my Altima. i am wanting more output and am lookign at goign with 2 12RL-ps in a ported box with about 700 per sub. Will I see a noticable difference in output? Just wondering if spending the $450 bucks for new subs will be worth it.If you want more output, go with 15's not 12's and I would run at least 1500 watts into 4 ohms rms to each driver.
The webiste says 700 watts will get the subs to full excursion. Wont that be enough for good output? I dont have the money to invest in a second amp and an upgrade to my electrical.
If you don't have the money, then don't go linear, The linears will push more air, but they cost a lot more because they are fitted with a ruthless motor design. The linear
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Here are your numbers:
4 ft^3 two 4" ports at 15" = 28 hz.
3 ft^3 two 4" ports at 15" = 33 hz.
4 ft^3 two 4" ports at 17" = 27 hz.
3 ft^3 two 4" ports at 17" = 31 hz.
go with at least two 4" ports, not three 3" ports. Thoes woofers move a lot of air and if you under port them you will have major chuffing. I would even suggest two 4.5" or 5" ports
4 ft^3 two 4.5" ports at 15" = 32 hz.
3 ft^3 two 4.5" ports at 15" = 37 hz.
4 ft^3 two 4.5" ports at 17" = 30 hz.
3 ft^3 two 4.5" ports at 17" = 35 hz.
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I am currently runnign 2 13kv2's sealed with about 450 per sub. I metered it at about 132 in the trunk of my Altima. i am wanting more output and am lookign at goign with 2 12RL-ps in a ported box with about 700 per sub. Will I see a noticable difference in output? Just wondering if spending the $450 bucks for new subs will be worth it.If you want more output, go with 15's not 12's and I would run at least 1500 watts into 4 ohms rms to each driver.
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your boston is probably shielded. raw neo's are scary to handle. I'm very gun-shy when holding them around random pieces of large metal. I have got way too many blistered from metal scraps flying at my fingers while holding the neo.
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BL, from a consumer standpoint, is pretty meaningless.As long as it has enough BL for the subwoofer's design, that's all that matters.
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the magnetic flux is really what you need to look at. sure you can have 500 ounce motor magnets out of ferrite (Eclipse titanium pro), but you can then use neodymium's (sp?) and have tiny magnets with 6 times the flux. We use the neo's on the very expensive PA 18" subwoofers. We are going to start using it sooner on the consumer stuff, but it is more expensive. The next generation JL audio W7 will use neo, but no one is supposed to know that. I'm guessing in a few years, most all of [our] higher end consumer stuff will be using neo. The only trick with neo is you need a larger steel bottom and top plate to control the flux so the motor ends up being still pretty heavy, but the actual magnets are much smaller.
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Don't forget the greens and your surfboardGood to see you here Kyle.. hope they aren't workin' ya too hard down there
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Thats good to here Thilo put together a very nice prototype 4hp 18 for me but Ihaven't been able to get ahold of them through email in a long timeWe're really busy and have a lot of projects going on right now. We're working to improve customer support.
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Speaking of TC sounds does Heather or Thilo still work for you guys?Yep they both do, Thilo is the mastermind, TC would be nothing w/o him.
Re-coning your woofer? Unless you damaged it, I wouldn
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Just saying hi, and I hope everyone enjoys the subs.
-Kyle
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2 12" RL-P's...what are they comparable to?
in SoundSplinter
Posted · Edited by 7
Sealed is typically less efficient, and the reason it takes more power is because the air inside the box acts as a spring because it has no where to go when you push or pull the diaphragm. try pushing a syringe while plugging the end. Same idea. It requires more power to move the driver. How can it take more power? Well, the driver now has to do more work because it has an extra force pushing and pulling on it. Power is typically limited by the suspension (max power) and RMS is typically how fast the voice coil can cool and take on a continuous amount of power.
does that help or just confuse you? Sorry, im tired.