s_carter

I also have a box that was designed for two SA-8's, though its tuned lower than 35. It is currently looking for a new home if your interested. 1.5 cubes after displacements, 37" wide, 13" deep and 12" high, with 32 inches of port area and tuned to 28 hertz.

Entirely up to you, but screws are cheap, and will ensure the glue doesn't crack and break away. Because eventually, it will, if that's all you use to hold it together. I have seen it too many times, when people come to me wanting a new box built for their ride... Just make sure to pre-drill your screw holes, so the wood doesn't crack.

depends on what kind of music you listen to, the rec. will be more flat down to 30-32 hertz, and the one you are planning will have about 2db's of boost at about 38 hertz, and will have less output below that...

5 cubes tuned to 28 to 30, and 60 inches of port area should do quite well with either driver.

OK, no I haven't measured them. On to the next one!

If you don't believe me, then come demo them, and that speaks for itself.

Its all about resonant frequencies, I haven't measured it personally, but I have read a lot of material explaining about it. And yes, I do like to push my gear to its limits, just to see what its capable of. I'm crazy like that.

I was given an old DHD 12" at one point that was rated for 1200 watts, I ran a 1000 watts RMS to it for 6 months, bottoming it out on a daily basis, before the VC former broke into 3 pieces and separated from the cone. That thing took a lot of torture! Aren't SSD's suspension limited so that the soft parts will give out before the coils do?

I have pushed my SSD18's to over 3 inches of excursion with no problems. I have been told by a few people that the xmech on the SSD18 is about 3.25 inches peak to peak. But it is enclosure and tuning specific. Different frequencies put varying amounts of stress on a woofer, so reaching xmech at 40 hertz is a much different monster than reaching xmech at 10 hertz.

If you run it off the sub preout on your reciever, you shouldn't need a crossover. Depending on the model of your receiver, you MIGHT (maybe, maybe not, its model dependent, it seems) need something like a Samson S-Convert to run between the sub pre-out, and the amp, if you go with the EP4000. It's a good idea to have anyway, since it also has gain matching circuitry, and you dont have to make or buy an RCA to XLR cable... There is a lot of info on the DIY Sub section over at the AVS forum about setting it all up as well. Here is a link to the Samson. I agree about the SSF, I have mine set at 10 hertz, only because I can't disable it on my amp, I highly doubt you will need it with that sub. I can't even bottom out my SSD's on subsonics with 3600 RMS to them, but it may be different with your amp, enclosure, and tuning.

Your looking at about 600 bucks an amp for 1000 watts. Also, they are only stable to 4 ohm, so keep that in mind when deciding your wiring options. A pro amp might be a better option for you.

My guess, they will be built when they are built, right? Or when you are damn good and ready? Just had to throw that out there, haha. I am excited to get them, though!

Either build a new box that is around 4-5 cubes after driver and port displacements, and has about 60 inches of port area for that size box, with a low tune (26-32 hertz), or go with a BL 18 or an XCON 18. Enclosure design and building is fun, once you get the hang of it.

its all dependent of your listening tastes, the size, Q, and tune of the enclosure, and how knob happy you get, and whether you can hear when the subs are being pushed too hard, or when power compression starts to kick in. I run 3600 RMS to my SSDs, but I have my gains set so that i will never give them a clipped signal, and I can hear when they are being pushed too hard.