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Blown JL12W6

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Posts posted by Blown JL12W6

  2. Posted

    I'm not even sure why you would try to salvage the basket. By the time you replace the motor and softparts, you might as well just buy a new driver. The basket may limit their ability to fit different parts based on dimensions, clearances and attachment to the motor. If you are going to go to the length of having them replace the motor as well as softparts, just buy a new driver. The basket is a $20 part anyways. Even if they could use the JL basket, by the time you paid for shipping both ways, new softparts and motor, you would probably be money ahead to just buy a Fi driver.

    I believe if you send the driver to JL they can recone it for you, but it's normally very expensive. And they don't sell any recone kits because I believe when they recone a driver they simply stick it back on the assembly line, have the softparts put in then send it back to you. It's normally around half of MSRP to have JL recone a driver, so you'd probably be looking at $250-$300.

    Unless you are willing to spend the $, you probably have nothing but a paperweight on your hands.

    What exactly is wrong with your W6v2? Blown voice coil? Torn surround or spider?

    1 voice coil is blown but the other 1 is still fine. It still plays but sounds shitty on high volume. Yeah, I think the $$$ will be too much just to repair that woofer. Just shipping alone will cost me an arm and a leg. lol!

    Thanks

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  3. Posted

    Actually it was dual 4 ohms voice coil, not 2 ohms, but when I measured the coil resistance it reads 3.6 ohms each. Sorry my bad. I hate seeing my JL 12W6 sitting in the corner..:( If Fi can replace the magnet and save the basket for recoil and recone kit that would probably work fine and close to Fi specs. The spider and cones will be useless anyways since it will be torn apart. Thanks for the info.

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  7. Posted

    Very true. Im a SQ/SPL guy, but it would be nice to surprise a few competitors on a DB drag using a single 12" @ 140 DB. :D

    I don't know how accurate my Iphone's SPL meter is but when I measured last time, it only reads around 95-100db. between 35-40 HZ.

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  10. Posted

    L shaped ports are only that way because the port is too long to fit into the box without doing so. There's absolutely no difference between that and a slot port or whatever you're saying.

    The program keeps tuning the same because it's calculating port length based on your inputs of box volume, port area, and tuning frequency.

    Those box dimensions give you 2.26 cubes gross. Minus sub displacement of about .17 cubes and your port displacement of .22 cubes and you have net volume of 1.87 (port is .22 because you have to add in the width of the interior port wall itself, so the dimensions would actually be 2.25 x 13.5 x 12.5). Plug those port dimensions and box volume into my winISD and it gives a tuning frequency of 42 hz. Very off.

    If you want a 34 hz tune with a 1.87 cube box, lengthen your port to 21.5". You'll then have to add on .16 cubes to your net volume so that it's 2.42 cubes gross.

    I've been trying different combinations on that WINISD software and I came up with this....

    I would like to keep the 1.87 cube box volume so what I did is change:

    VENT DIAMETER = 0.75" x 12" and my VENT LENGHT = 9" instead of doing the 21.5"

    BOX = 1.87 cub ft.

    TUNED = 33.55 HZ

    NOTE: The 1.5" VENT is the SQUARE PORT WIDTH from RE calculator program then I reduced it to 0.75" on WINISD program.

    Please let me know if this will work out alright. I would like to keep the box Volume as much as possible at minimum 1.8-2.0 cub ft. tuned to 33-35 HZ without losing interior box volume.

    Thanks

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  12. Posted

    Hi guys, I will be building the pre cut enclosures I calculated under RE enclosure calculator but there are a few things I would like to verify. I would like to tune the box between 33-35Hz @ 1.8-2.0 cubic ft. However, I just read that the RE calculator is not accurate. So I searched and found this website Enclosure Volume Calculator (EVC) and made the following calculations:

    Box Width 23 Inches

    Box Height 15 Inches

    Box Depth 15 Inches

    Material Thickness 0.75 Inches

    Number of Drivers 1 Total

    Total Port Volume 258.188 Inches3 -----> see calculations below:

    Port Width 13.5 Inches

    Port Height 1.5 Inches

    Port Depth 12.5 Inches

    Driver Volume 0.168 Ft3 -----------> From Fi Q12 specs

    Number of Drivers 1 Total

    Total Net Volume 1.95 Ft3

    I would like to verify with you enclosure experts, if this calculations are ok and will be enough for optimal output of the sub. The sub will be powered @ 1200 watts RMS.

    Thanks

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  13. Posted

    The SQUARE PORT WIDTH of 1.5" that I can't do anything and it will stay the same. The half piece of the "L" shape port which is called SQUARE PORT LENGHT is what I was trying to reduce to either 5" or stay with 15" and make room for extra volume at the same time balancing the tuned frequency.

    Anyways, Im thinking or either going for Aeroport design or suck it all up and change my dimension to 16" Depth and keep the 23" width just to make room for volume. Any other practical suggestions?

    Thanks

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  17. Posted

    I finally picked up the pre cut pieces of the box I designed using the RE enclosure calculator, but I would like to verify which port length will be ideal for tuning the 2.0 Cubic ft. box between 30-33 HZ? I know the RE calculator is not really accurate so, here's my box measurements:

    Width = 23"

    Depth = 15"

    Height = 15"

    Volume = 2.0 Cubic ft.

    Port width = 1.5"

    Here's the pic of the box. The length of the port inside the L shape port is what I would like to verify.

    e1e1fff2.jpg

    Now, should I go with 12" or 5" port length? The default RE calculator gave me a tuning freq of 33 HZ using 5" port lenth but it is not accurate. I'll be building the box sometime this weekend so before I put everything together, I would like you enclosure experts to pick the best port length that will be suitable between 30-33 HZ.

    Thanks.

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  19. Posted · Edited by Blown JL12W6

    After tweaking my Gain settings and adjusting the bass knob, I managed to get a slight improvement of the bass output without stressing the sub. I'll do a big 3 upgrade after I replaced my old battery. Here's my latest video clip.

    th_FiQ12skullshaker.jpg

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  20. Posted · Edited by Blown JL12W6

    My amp is not power hungry , it just overheats quickly, activating the thermal protection sooner than most high quality amps. The AQ2200 is more stable and will probably

    take the Q12's 1.6 Ohms resistance than my kenwood. Btw. I lowered the gain to 1/4 for now. Gonna be modifying the used subwoofer box that I bought for $20, and this box is about 2 cub ft. (15"x15"x24"). I just need to verify the ports freq using RE enclosure calculator. :D

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  21. Posted

    BTW. My electrical system is still stock. I didn't noticed any huge drop in the battery voltage when the bass hits but my amp's thermal protection light went on after a few mins of playing hard hitting bass song. Any good AMP recommendations with the price range around $200-$300? There's a used AQ2200 for sale in my area but Im not sure if it's worth buying it used for $300. :shrug:

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