An-i-no

They come with a 6x8 Adapter.

So, your saying with MT's they are different then all other woofers and don't need magical program to get a box, but all other woofers do? They fact that y'all would even trust a program that much shows a lot about the designs produced form y'all. You still have not specified what you want. Pure SPL numbers? Loud music? No, I'm saying something that was said earlier. You're not the only one with an MT. You could do a quick google search and see what other people have had success with. If you didn't do that then what DID you do? Make up a size and port area? How do you build boxes if you don't model them? He can't just do reasearch. We have NO IDEA what kind of woofers these are (specs wise). We don't know if they're super stiff spl machines or low fs daily beaters. I'd much rather trust a program before I just made up some numbers and tried it. That way I could see that my response would be peaky or saddle shaped WITHOUT having to build a box and test. But how does the program know what's going to happen? It has no clue in reality. It's just saying what other humans have GUESSED would happen and programed it to say.... Not guessed. Calculated. USING MATH. With what numbers I wonder.....oh wait, those T/S specs you ignore. They are given for a reason. They do not suddenly go haywire once you play the woofer. All that happens is the suspension loosens up. Motor force, cone area, moving mass, and several others don't change after you play it? If they were useless, why would manufacturer's go through all the trouble to measure them? EDIT: And you know what, I'm not even saying that you should swear by a program and trust it always. I'm saying that it's a tool to use that can give you a base to build on. It's better than friggin guessing. I'm also not questioning your ability to build boxes. I'm questioning the means by which you design them. (or lack thereof, really.)

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12224_Pioneer-TS-D1720C.html Pioneer awesomeness, great for the money. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15059_Polk-Audio-MM6501.html If you liked Polk before, You could try these. http://www.vertexaudio.com/store/pc/CDT-Audio-COM-626-COX-622-Front-Rear-Package-65p174.htm If you're set on having rears, this would be good. And Hertz HSK and ESK sets can be found on Ebay. Just do a little shopping. I've listened to everything but the ESK and CDT. I'd personally go for the Pioneer's as I liked their sound the best. The Polk's had a little easier tweeter but less midbass than the Pioneer. The Hertz are alot louder and slightly clearer than both the Polk and Pioneer but I had those on a stronger amp. They also had slightly less midbass than the Pioneer. More than the Polk though. But that could've been how I had them eq'd so ignore that nvm.

Are those for these two woofers or the ones they used to be?

So, your saying with MT's they are different then all other woofers and don't need magical program to get a box, but all other woofers do? They fact that y'all would even trust a program that much shows a lot about the designs produced form y'all. You still have not specified what you want. Pure SPL numbers? Loud music? No, I'm saying something that was said earlier. You're not the only one with an MT. You could do a quick google search and see what other people have had success with. If you didn't do that then what DID you do? Make up a size and port area? How do you build boxes if you don't model them? He can't just do reasearch. We have NO IDEA what kind of woofers these are (specs wise). We don't know if they're super stiff spl machines or low fs daily beaters. I'd much rather trust a program before I just made up some numbers and tried it. That way I could see that my response would be peaky or saddle shaped WITHOUT having to build a box and test.

Huh? It's wire? Where do you see this?

Sorry op, but without t/s specs it's kinda hard to tell what kind of box they would do best in. Unless someone is really familiar with the woofers they (used to be?) are then it's difficult. Without building several boxes and testing of course.

Find the ts specs and go from there. Not really, alot of woofers T/S specs are wrong, and others don't even offer T/S specs. OP, do you want pure SPL? Loud music? I wouldn't recommend competing with those amps, they will get you put in a high power class. What? That is an erroneous statement and I am surprised that more guys haven't jumped on this. How are YOU designing enclosures without ts specs? How are you designing them around them? After 2 week of playing the T/S specs on woofers changes completely, so what good are they then? If we HAD to have T/S specs to make boxes, how would I build an enclosure for my old MT's, or for some DD Z's? My enclosures out perform most peoples without even trying, on both output, and over all good sound. Werd? My motor force or sd might increase!? But more seriously...I don't need a scientist to tell me that water is wet. You don't need a program to tell you that MT's need x.x ft3 at xxHz. What we have here are two one of a kind hybrid woofers so t/s specs WILL make more of a difference. You don't wanna bathe in an unknown liquid do you?

You have the same as me lol. They are stiff, but a couple of hot days in the car will make em a lil more freindly. They'll loosen up with time and use.

I totally understand. Just lmk if you change your mind, cuz this double sided tape ain't cuttin it lol

UPDATE: I had to pry off one of the tabs to free the rca end. Unfortunately this bent it but nothin a lil heat and pressure coudln't fix. Then, shortly after, I unplugged another one of the rca's (100000x more carefully than last time, I twisted, tugged, everything) and it took that one off too. I love these cables but damn man. OH, and sorry I forgot to take pics because I was so glad to have everything back running. But everything is all good now.

If my Hyundai was just as good a vehicle as the Lexus, those tires just as good as the more expensive ones, and the additives in the cheap fuel just as good as the not cheap fuel...you understand where this is going. Sure, every company has markup and "Name recognition prices" but it doesn't = better product. DD's 3500 and under (remember, that's what the thread is about)almost always aren't worth what people want for them. As a company, when you look at that, that has to call your attention. But hell, the turnover is so huge on them I'd doubt they notice.

Yea, but thats only ~500 wrms over what Im giving one. Im trying to atleast give them their RMS. Get two small(er) amps and run them at 1 ohm?

what about the fact that they use all american parts like your beloved Fi, what about the fact that they have the second largest magntizer in the U.S., what about the fact that they have incorporated cooling and coil inventions that every other company disects only to steal ideas from.to answer, no the 3500 is not worth the price. your dealer is shitting on you. my dealer sells those for 295. the 9500 or z is what you want. What makes having the 2nd largest magnetizer in the US have to do with making the lines from 9500 and below any more special than another sub? What cooling is different on those lines and coil inventions? The price was posted on CA.com by a dealer and no one said it was too much. at least something other than "so much wrong" First being, DD woofers play the same and sound the same as ANY other woofer. It's ALL box dependent. DD's advantage to most is their motor force, and other motor innovations. I never said they didn't sound the same or anything. I am saying they aren't special. What is special about their motors besides the three Zs. I'm right there with you. The proof is in the puddin'. And if they don't play any different then...the consumer should pay more why?

The same thing happened with my Sundown SAX-100.4 and some high end JL RCA's. Should just pop back in. I haven't tried that. I can't actually, because the damn jack is stuck in the RCA end and I'd have to cut it up to free it. Might try that in the morning.

what about the fact that they use all american parts like your beloved Fi, what about the fact that they have the second largest magntizer in the U.S., what about the fact that they have incorporated cooling and coil inventions that every other company disects only to steal ideas from. to answer, no the 3500 is not worth the price. your dealer is shitting on you. my dealer sells those for 295. the 9500 or z is what you want. American parts...cool. Big ass magnetizer...I don't give a damn about. Super neat cooling designs...cool. So all this means their stuff should be more expensive right? Or that the dealer gets to charge whatever right?

And to the guy who calls bullshit on my thread, uhmmm....? The rca connector was tight, I pulled on it and the rca jack came off with it? I didn't yank or pull it from the cord if that's what you're saying? This wasn't meant to be a "everybody talk about Monoprice" thread, I was just EXTREMELY frustrated that this happened. Spending money on unnecessary things is hard on minimum wage.

TO EVERYONE!!!: I never said the RCA was bad. I never said I didn't like the snug fit, or the cable itself. They are damn good cables, as far as noise is concerned. I tried to twist and ease it off but it was a no go. So I pulled? Oops? The only reason I'm replacing the cables is so that I don't have to worry about this in the future.

Anywhere?

That's why you get good stuff from the beginning. The cable itself if far from bad. just the plug is tight as hell. They were so cheap that if I tried to return them I'd lose money by paying for shipping.

Hell yeah. I hate re-buying stuff. Just money that could've gone somewhere else.

Hey bro since you flush mounted, do you have the angle/surface mounts for the tweeters? I lost one of mine and would REAAAAAALY appreciate if you would sell me the pair?

Ok, here's the story. I shop (window shop mostly) online 99% of the time on sites like Sonic, Audiosavings, and Ebay, so I found it refreshing to go visit a couple of real audio stores in my area so that I could actually see amps in person, listen to speakers, and tie some hyperflex in a knot. While I did have fun in the listening room and lookin over products the guys that worked at both places SUCKED. (Jack's Stereo and Schroeder's Audio in Waco, TX) First of all, I went to Schroeder's to look at some HAT Imagines as they were on the dealer list. The guy said he only had Clarus's in stock and that I could see them so I went ahead and did. So as we leave the listening room (which was non-functional and dark as hell) he drops the box in my arms to let me see how heavy they are and says "these are NO JOKE" as if I don't know what I'm dealing with. Then he asks what my system will be, so I told him "2 Sundown Audio SA-12's on 1200 watts." He asks what impedance I will run them at, so I say Dual 4 wired to 1 and he goes "ONE OHM??!??!" as if the entire system would melt from it. So then he recommends a Polk 600.1 for both and tells me that, and I quote, "there's a common misconception that the power MAGICALLY splits when you run two subs. No bro, the amp will push 600 watts to both speakers because it's a SIX HUNDRED WATT AMP." So I nod through his little bs speech and gtfo there. I can understand him trying to simplify things because I seemed rookie-ish but that info was flat out WRONG. Oh and he quoted me 300 bucks for a box built to specs for 2 SA-12's. He said "We will actually CALL the manufacturer and ask for the specs" as if I couldn't pick up the damn phone and do that too, but whatever . Jack's was actually not that bad but the guy behind the desk kept trying to sell us Type S stuff claiming that it was just as good as Type R and that Alpine was the best. So when I asked why they even stock type R stuff if S is just as good and he said that Type R's were their bestseller.

That adapter is a piece of crap. Build your own. A speaker requires a baffle to sound good. Good, nice call If you can't measure directly, squish some clay in there and see how much it squishes down. Then you'll know your clearance. I lack the three T's. (Time, Tools, and Training) All I needed was a way to get 6.5's in my door. I figure deadening and sealing up the door itself will be more beneficial than the material of the adapter. They are sealed up against the door nice and tight. To Crash, DON'T forget to treat the MDF with something or you will be very sad. As far as having room between the door panel and door itself, you should be good as long as the speaker isn't slapping the panel when it plays?

The most important part is to check your mounting DEPTH, as that will limit what you can get in the door more than the diameter will. And uhhhh...well there are various 6x8 to 6.5 adapters made by Scosche and Metra but those are wayyyyy small and require alot more material to be removed (which honestly after that much work you might as well just cut your own, right?) I have the 6x8 to 6.5 and they fit my 98 Explorer perfectly. I'm assuming that even though your Mazda is way newer it would be the same mounts, but I could be wrong. The cool thing about them is that if you have a drill, you can drill your own holes or even just use a phillips head to bore new holes. The material is very strong. I wouldn't hesitate to buy some even if I knew I would have to drill new mounting holes. If you want pictures I could probably post some?