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An-i-no

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Posts posted by An-i-no

  4. Posted

    If he is using the knob he is using bass boost. I'm not trying to "call you out" just trying to help.

    How do you know this?

    I have personally owned 2 Audiopipe amps and have installed 4 and I have never had a problem with the knob. As far as I know it's a remote gain knob. It reduces the output to near-nothing when it's all the way down (like the actual gain setting on your amp), whereas a "boost" knob wouldn't do that...I have had AP and AQX series also.

    And if he says "if we turn it down any more there is barely any bass" then isn't that setting the gain by ear, like most of us suggest? I don't doubt he grossly overpowered them but...I distinctly remember a thread where everyone was bashing the SMD DD-1 with comments like "use your ears!" and now we're here...lol

    Ap series amps have bass boost knobs.

    We can agree to disagree. I don't think a boost knob would reduce output to almost nothing when it's all the way down. It would only boost output when you turn it up.

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  5. Posted

    If he is using the knob he is using bass boost. I'm not trying to "call you out" just trying to help.

    How do you know this?

    I have personally owned 2 Audiopipe amps and have installed 4 and I have never had a problem with the knob. As far as I know it's a remote gain knob. It reduces the output to near-nothing when it's all the way down (like the actual gain setting on your amp), whereas a "boost" knob wouldn't do that...I have had AP and AQX series also.

    And if he says "if we turn it down any more there is barely any bass" then isn't that setting the gain by ear, like most of us suggest? I don't doubt he grossly overpowered them but...I distinctly remember a thread where everyone was bashing the SMD DD-1 with comments like "use your ears!" and now we're here...lol

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  9. Posted · Edited by An-i-no

    Ok. Is there anybody that has a test tone download so I can download an asortment onto my phone for free?

    If you have an Android go to the market and download SoundForm.

    If you have an iOS device go to the app store and get FreqGen.

    EDIT: They're both free. If you don't have either then....? LOL

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  16. Posted

    Im completely new to all of this..but I was wanting to put 2 12" Fi SSDs in a 2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer. But I don't know what options to get and what amp. I have about $600 to work with and still have to buy the subs, any help would be very appreciated

    Save more money. Otherwise you'll end up buying the stuff you REALLY needed in the first place after you buy some cheap crap.

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  17. Posted · Edited by An-i-no

    So now all the screws are completely stripped. The extractors failed miserably and we have made no progress

    We tried to get them started with a drill bit, no beans. Drilled the head flat, no beans. Tried the extractors as a last ditch efforts and no beans. We're trying to get behind them and see if we can turn them with vicegrips.

    It's like they're rivets with Phillips heads almost. It's ridiculous.

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  18. Posted

    It's simple if you have the proper tools. Contrary to what others have stated, I would start with a larger bit just to get it centered in the screw. Once you notice it is, switch to the small bit about 1/8", then move up to a 3/16, then 1/4. The key is to pop the head off, of course, if it's just screwing blind into plastic, this is not going to help. You will need to extract the screw. Next time you do this, always try to tighten the screw first, then back out. It helps to relieve some pressure on the screw head. Remember, the metal twists and distorts once you begin to torque it, so it will spring back and cause surface tension and binding, so tightening first aids in breaking the tension. . .

    Some times.

    Hmm...ill reread this tomorrow when the screw is right in front of me.

    So does the head just pop off after you drill a certain amount? Sorry I'm having a hard time picturing it

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  19. Posted

    If you couldn't remove the screws by hand, those cheap removers won't work.

    Drill the heads off, remove the radio, then take some vice grips and remove the remaining material from the other side. Don't worry about the need for a drill or tap. You will either have a speed nut or a course thread screw into plastic. It's probably the latter as many times when they install them on the assembly line, the friction caused by the screws threading melts the plastic and you end up with the issue you have here.

    Dammit. Sounds like a ton of work.

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  22. Posted

    I was installing a simple Hu in a 2006 Sonata and the four screws that hold the oem radio in WILL NOT turn. I can usually do it with my trusty screwdriver but no luck.

    So I got out our 14.4v Black & Decker with a mostly charged battery and it couldn't turn them either. My dad says I need to drill them out but I'm not sure how to to that. They're semi-stripped now too so yeah. Any help would be appreciated.

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  23. Posted

    There is a meathod to our box madness. Lol. My woofer loads well over a huge frequency range.

    I understand how it works...(it being loading) but I'm not quite sure how to manipulate it to my advantage. I just know that subs up port firing to the drivers side = crazy output below 30hz lol

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  24. Posted

    Standard 4th order.

    Only issues is full power below 30Hz, and even then it has to be those weird notes. Lol. Make sense?

    Completely. I'm tuned to 28 and hit people with 18hz shockwaves lol. I just don't see myself doing it without my ssf or some crazy loading wall setup

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  25. Posted · Edited by An-i-no

    I am tuned to 40Hz and my SSF is at 10Hz. I never have issues.

    Do you go around jammin stuff in the mid to low 30's?

    I play a good bit of Bigpimpin91 and DJSNT. Which is all low, 28Hz-38Hz.

    Well I guess I can't argue with that. No excursion issues at all?

    Edit: Wait bandpass or standard 4th order ported?

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