An-i-no
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Posts posted by An-i-no
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I need deadener bad now lol. Shit gets crazy at about 32hz and below...with the port loading off of the side wall (that duct tape is there to hold shit together lololol) it plays down to ~24hz. It's awesome because you stop hearing it at a certain point.
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*reads thread*
Oh shit son....I thought you blew a solo x....this is too much
*leaves before it gets bad*
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I'm not arguing that rears are a good thing, I never said that. You're overlooking what my point is. Rears are detrimental to the the frequency response. Fact. This does not make every install that includes rears flawed, because every ear and most goals are different.
Now to you, an anomaly in the frequency response is bad, while to me having a subwoofer be limited to only ~30hz and up is bad. Does this make any install limited to ~30hz and up a flawed install? No, that's ridiculous right? It's simply a matter of personal preference.
I'm not trying to brag about how low my subs play or throw that in your face or whatever you thought that was. I just want you to see that you're arguing a subjective case. Not everyone wants what you want, not everyone likes what you like, even if on paper and in the real world its beneficial. This hobby is about what YOU WANT, and I think people lose that sometimes. I love playing 26hz slow ass rap songs. You like sq. Who's "wrong?" Neither of us.
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double post.
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Some people grow up listening to music through headphones, in cars (stock systems of course) and at home with surround sound. The whole "rears mess up the sound" thing is confusing to me because it's all personal preference...How can you tell a person what the "right" way to listen to their music is? Sure you can suggest it, let them try it, but if they don't like it that doesn't mean they're wrong?
I was without rears for...about 6 months. It sounded awesome. I got some rears and it sounds just as awesome? As long as he likes it it's just fine.
It messes up the frequency response. That's okay to you?
What it shows me is that you haven't heard a system that was setup properly. When comparing not so good to not so good and all around you then surely you might have a preference for one or the other.
Perhaps my goals are strange. When I listen to music, I want to listen to the music.
Perhaps MY goals are strange? When I listen to music I want 26hz notes to rock my ribs and for the vocals to be loud and clear.
Not having perfect imaging and little anomalies in the frequency response doesn't bother me at all. Just like if you couldn't play into the 20's at full volume that might not bother you at all but to me that's a problem. Just because my subs may play lower than yours doesn't mean that you set yours up wrong...you like it just fine that way.
You're assuming that a "system that was setup properly" sounds the best to everybody. You can't do that, just like I can't assume that 26hz at 140+db sounds great to everybody. Personal preference is my key point.
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He paid his money, he wants his product.....fair game.
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You could use the12volt, but how would you know you have enough port area?
And how would you calculate port displacement for NET volume if the port length itself is dependent on the net volume?
Just some food for thought.
As Duran said, Winisd is free. Download, install. Look up T/S specs for your driver and plug it in. Read the article / how to / tutorial if you need help figuring it out.
If you can't figure this out or don't want to spend the time to figure it out, contact someone that designs enclosures and pay them to do it. I've heard great reviews for Ram Designs.
Either way, do it right, or don't do it at all.
Awfully elitist don't you think? Nobody EVER "does it right" on their first try.
He's not dumb. Just eager and uneducated like we all started.
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I'd like to thank Mr. Quentin Jarrell for this here.
If there was a box builder of the year award I would vote for you!
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As said too many times already. Fuses on powerwire are to protect the vehicle in case there is some type of grounding to the vehicle chassis or if you are trying to pull too much current through it causing the jacket to melt and catching fire.
This is really, really basic info. In fact one of the first things MECP teaches.
A fuse near the battery yes. He's fusing his amp though. I think everybody is overlooking that.
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What Vladd said. His 3k may actually match the wire perfectly (in that they both need 300 amp fuses) in this case, but say he had a 1500. A 300 amp fuse on that is pointless. Yes you fuse for wire capacity at the battery but you fuse for amp capacity at the amp. Otherwise you might as well not even fuse at all.
EDIT: And say Circut Breakers were pretty reliable (not saying they are or aren't), you'd have to burn up a shit-ton of fuses before it paid for itself.
Not to mention that if you ever upgrade wire you have to buy a whole new one whereas you can simply replace a fuse/fuse holder for a hell of alot cheaper. If you plan on constantly exceeding the abilities of your wire then MAYBE you should get a circut breaker.....or you could actually fix the problem and get better wire/fuses....
Just to clarify, it's not pointless, just provides no advantage over a 150A fuse, while a 150A fuse does provide advantages over a 300A fuse....allowing less unwanted current through the circuit.
Yeah my wording was a little strong. I just meant that the 300 amp fuse is not REALLY doing its job as it may allow the amplifier to exceed its limits while staying fully intact, thus defeating the purpose of fusing at all.
The 300A or main fuse won't help the amp from exceeding its limits, that's what the amp fuses are for. The fuse at the battery simply serves as a fuse closest to the source of the electricity in an attempt to eliminate the chance of a short circuit. The difference is that there is zero need for this fuse to be larger than the circuit it's on dictates.
Yeah that's what I meant. Amp fusing. (as in amps with no onboard fuses) the op is asking about fusing his Sundown 3k. A fuse larger than what the amp can draw isn't really protecting it. In this case both the wire and amp require 300 amp fuses but that's not always the case, which is the point I was trying to make.
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Im not sure what the weight in the back has to do with the dash cracking. But the top dash piece under the windshield was pretty well trashed when I got the car, like most f bodies. No plans for deadener at the moment. I run outlaw and dont need the car to seal tight since my door is wide open. Most of the interior will be replaced as well as the outside getting a new color. I'll handle deadener then.
Oh I see.
I asked because on ls1tech they concluded that uneven weight distribution is one of the causes of the dash and trims cracking. But yeah its been cracked in every trans am I've ever been in so I was just wondering. Sounds like you got it all down though. Gonna be a purdy finished product.
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What Vladd said. His 3k may actually match the wire perfectly (in that they both need 300 amp fuses) in this case, but say he had a 1500. A 300 amp fuse on that is pointless. Yes you fuse for wire capacity at the battery but you fuse for amp capacity at the amp. Otherwise you might as well not even fuse at all.
EDIT: And say Circut Breakers were pretty reliable (not saying they are or aren't), you'd have to burn up a shit-ton of fuses before it paid for itself.
Not to mention that if you ever upgrade wire you have to buy a whole new one whereas you can simply replace a fuse/fuse holder for a hell of alot cheaper. If you plan on constantly exceeding the abilities of your wire then MAYBE you should get a circut breaker.....or you could actually fix the problem and get better wire/fuses....
Just to clarify, it's not pointless, just provides no advantage over a 150A fuse, while a 150A fuse does provide advantages over a 300A fuse....allowing less unwanted current through the circuit.
Yeah my wording was a little strong. I just meant that the 300 amp fuse is not REALLY doing its job as it may allow the amplifier to exceed its limits while staying fully intact, thus defeating the purpose of fusing at all.
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I don't know the technical reasoning but I can just say:
Have you ever been to a live a concert, or heard a band play on some stage?
Did it sound killer?
Now were they playing in front of you, or behind you?
Some people grow up listening to music through headphones, in cars (stock systems of course) and at home with surround sound. The whole "rears mess up the sound" thing is confusing to me because it's all personal preference...How can you tell a person what the "right" way to listen to their music is? Sure you can suggest it, let them try it, but if they don't like it that doesn't mean they're wrong?
I was without rears for...about 6 months. It sounded awesome. I got some rears and it sounds just as awesome? As long as he likes it it's just fine.
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I really need to update this thing. Well the sides are done now and I did a little fiberglassing all my corners and joints. I'm removing the top of the wall to redo it. I believe I can gain quite a bit by doing so. All my 1/0 is cut and ready to wire up the battery bank. The real major hurdle left is the front baffles. Amp and subs will be here before the end of the week. woot! I'll post a few picks tonight.
Anything planned for deadener?
And if your dash hasn't cracked/twisted yet, do you have anything planned to combat that with all the weight?
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What Vladd said. His 3k may actually match the wire perfectly (in that they both need 300 amp fuses) in this case, but say he had a 1500. A 300 amp fuse on that is pointless. Yes you fuse for wire capacity at the battery but you fuse for amp capacity at the amp. Otherwise you might as well not even fuse at all.
EDIT: And say Circut Breakers were pretty reliable (not saying they are or aren't), you'd have to burn up a shit-ton of fuses before it paid for itself.
Not to mention that if you ever upgrade wire you have to buy a whole new one whereas you can simply replace a fuse/fuse holder for a hell of alot cheaper. If you plan on constantly exceeding the abilities of your wire then MAYBE you should get a circut breaker.....or you could actually fix the problem and get better wire/fuses....
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10" Solo X's unless he bought something else.
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You could use y-splitters at the amp but I dont know if that would cut some of the signal down that would be going into the amp.
Or dual switches.
I'd just take it out though. The Epicenter's do nothing good, but I also really, really don't understand why you'd want fake notes in your music
Some songs you really like don't have very little or no bass in the recording? I have a few songs that could use a little "enhancement," and I bet I'm not the only one.
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What's it tuned to?
Unless its sealed, that'd be nuts...
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Yup 3 dayz ago I was banging a rock song, I shut the truck off and never turned it down. I cranked my truck the next morning to go to school, and all hell broke loose!! I about shit my pants as I spilled coffee super close to my amps. Sucks!!!! Still can't get the smell out!
Haha my buddy who has a setup similar to yours (2 15" HDC's on an audiopipe 1500) cranked the car with some Webbie song still blasting and all four of us in the car jumped like a kid when the cable goes static lol. His first words were "is everybody ok, cuz that scared the SHIT outta me." Good times
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The other day I was in the drive through at Wendy's and my mids and highs sounded odd so I turned the subs off and cranked the volume higher than I ever listen to my system to try and pin point it. After I got my food I turned the subs back on with the headunit still paused without turning it down Lawl...so I unpause it and KABLOOMBANGNASTYSHITBRIXLOUD....I scared the fuck out of myself and my girl wouldn't talk to me for a while lol...has anybody else had a shitbrix bass moment?
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Pricing is very competitive!
How is $5/ft competitive?
Got dayum...
Maybe the spool is made of platinum?
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m5 and ohjay allways hate on skar who the fuck cares who the owner is they op is asking about the subs and the subs are great for the price.like g6ryder said i think the customer service is great
Lawl. The owner is GETTING YOUR MONEY dawg. Fuck the product, if I have ANY questions as to whether or not I get what I paid for, I don't buy from that guy. I've never dealt with Kevin, but why would I want to if there's a chance things could go bad? Plus he's had how many different names and companies? You cant get your awesome Skars warrantied if the pucking company goes under....
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The SA and SD's lil buddy!
Awesome prices. Sorry if someone asked already but will there be a pre order?
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What about a nice front stage instead?
This. The fronts are infinitely more important. When I see "small sq setup" I think "quiet." Almost any sub can be quiet and subtle but its the front stage that makes it a SQ system. If you want a lil quiet sub then just pick a lil quiet sub and call it a day.
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Woofer arrangement
in General Audio
Posted
I've wondered for a long time, how do "push pull" arrangements work? Is is relevent to the op's idea?