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An-i-no

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Posts posted by An-i-no

  2. Posted

    Lol I have an update. Same shop.

    My buddy and I were having trouble putting his double din in and we called the guy to see how much. First he says it's more for a double din (lol I guess cuz it's heavier and he has to work harder to lift it in right?) and then he says his computer says that my buddies 03 Impala doesn't have a factory amped system, even though I can open his trunk and look at it, and even see the speaker wire going into the rear 6x9's lol. I don't understand how the guy gets any business? Aside from ripping people off of course.

    I'm shocked! You should open a car audio shop and compete against them. :trippy:

    Lol he has a major Polk boner (not that it's a bad brand or anything, if you like Polk, more power to ya) and he wants me to come back and demo the HAT Clarus set but...their sound room was...raggedy n a sumbitch (if you saw it you'd know that's the perfect description, trust me). The light was hanging from the ceiling and there were more holes in the mdf than there were speakers. Maybe they were fixing it up but damn, close the door next time.

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  3. Posted

    CRX's are NOT instantly loud, and less cabin space does NOT = louder. There's a lot to be said for vehicle acoustics, some are better than others, and that applies for SQ and SPL. The Blazer will be louder in no wall scenarios.

    WTF are you smoking? Unless the car has been wrecked, then yes, as long as you know even a little about them then they are instantly loud.....

    So why don't you have one, and why are there other vehicles used, and why are Explorers and Cherokees beating CRX's? I can think of 3 people right off that combined have had 6 or 7 CRX's, none of which were loud, only 1 was wrecked. Why is the vehicle excuse used all the time? Every time somebody has anything pretty loud, it's because of the vehicle? What about Excursions, are those loud? How about a no wall Excursion doing 158's @ 29 hz on the dash? Must be because Excursions are loud.....

    No? Didn't you just say "The Blazer will be louder in no wall scenarios?" So why can't a CRX be louder than a Blazer if the Blazer is louder than the Mitsu?

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  4. Posted

    I'm not sure about the V2s, but the V1s can do it with proper electrical. But I have some doubts that the OP will upgrade his electrical.

    Gotta have :morepower1: to make :morepower1:

    Yes and to me the OP is just skimping out of buying a 3000watt amp.

    I also know distortion will rise a bit, not sure if it'll be audible or not.

    To me this is like buying a subaru wrx, adding a mbc and boosting it from the stock 14.5psi to 25psi and going YIPPIE I'm race ready!

    Hey, hey! Not everyone can get their hands on an STI

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  6. Posted

    I would suggest the lowest tuning to be 28 Hz as anything lower is not really practical for car audio. Is 28 ok for you?

    Andrew

    As long as the response is smooth. The only reason I want to be tuned so low is so that I can play any and everything (to a certain extent of course) safely. If you can do that with a 28hz tuning then that's perfect.

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  7. Posted

    Vehicle Make and Model: 1998 Ford Explorer

    Direct of Box/Subs: Subs up, port towards drivers side.

    Sealed or Ported: Ported

    Number of Subs: 2

    Brand and Model of Subs: Sundown Audio SA-12

    Max Dimensions: 38 in. width, 18in. height, depth shouldn't be an issue (plus I forgot the measurement haha)

    Zip Code for Shipping Quote: 76708

    Hey, I have a few special requests...I listen to a lot of slowed music (decaf etc.) and love bass around 27-35 hertz so I would like for the box to be tuned a little lower than what Jacob recommends. Probably 26, but whatever gives me the most balanced response and can still dominate between 27-35. I've experimented and found that when the ports are aimed on the drivers side of my car (left if I had the hatch open and was looking out the windshield. Just in case I say the wrong side, but definitely left.) I get a lot more on the low end so that's why I ask for the port to be that way. and with subs up port side I can experiment with different configurations.

    One more thing, I want to mount my amp to the back of the box, so how much extra would it cost to get the back double baffled? If this isn't possible or just a bad idea just let me know. Oh and throw on flush mount to the quote too.

    Thanks in advance for reading my huge ocd request. :drink40:

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  9. Posted

    Ok here's my thing.

    Almost all tests have all variables you can't change. And unless you go back in time and in your original test replace the thing your testing.

    I think if you rule out the variables that will cause the outcome of the test results to really vary. Then test equally, the outcome could be personally used to draw your own conclusion.

    But I agree there are a lot of people comparing/testing and giving out invalid and biases result. But that's not going to change. Its just your job to find out for yourself why the outcome of the test came out the way it did. And if a variable caused one to be better than the other.

    Test away, we weren't recommending that you don't :) Just make sure to calculate your true uncertainty so you know exactly what you are testing though...otherwise you really shouldn't bother with the test :fing34:

    Correct.

    I think most personal testing, should stay just that personal. Unless asked for exactly, but then, list all your uncontrollable variables.

    Example. I personally tested a ZX750.1 and SAZ1500d on the termlab. Exact swap out.

    ZX tested 144.5dB

    SAZ tested 145.6dB.

    Double the "rated" power, but less than perfect 3dB, you will get in a perfect situation.

    Which a lot of variables played into effect in why I didn't get the full 3dB.

    Does it mean the Sundown doesn't do rated power? No.

    But that isn't what I was testing. I was just testing SPL, and happen to do the switch out.

    I'm glad this thread happened though. Its not that I gained a ton of new knowledge, just now have a new outlook on testing.

    God I hope I don't start up another argument...but what coils were you using that can be wired to one ohm to get full power from a SAZ-1500d at and then at two ohms to get full power from the ZX750.1? If both were tested at two ohms then that test makes a little more sense.

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  11. Posted

    Lol I have an update. Same shop.

    My buddy and I were having trouble putting his double din in and we called the guy to see how much. First he says it's more for a double din (lol I guess cuz it's heavier and he has to work harder to lift it in right?) and then he says his computer says that my buddies 03 Impala doesn't have a factory amped system, even though I can open his trunk and look at it, and even see the speaker wire going into the rear 6x9's lol. I don't understand how the guy gets any business? Aside from ripping people off of course.

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  12. Posted

    Sorry for the double post, but this argument reminds me of the old Kobe vs Jordan or Undefeated Dolphins vs Nearly Undefeated Patriots. You always have to take account for the different rules of the times, and the talent level of other teams/players in the league(s) and it just skews everything...I'm feeling that this will turn into the same kind of "there's no way for them to play each other ouright so we'll never know" type of thing.

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  13. Posted

    As wrong as his numbers may be, his point is that he HAS numbers. He has something to judge against, a scale, if you will. If one test is wrong, and the next test just as wrong and he gains x.xx db, then he can say the second amp was louder. He CAN'T measure distortion, he doesn't HAVE resistive loads. From what I've seen, all the people who swear by perfect testing enviornments and procedures can't provide them so his argument is what's the point? (No offense, not saying that you can't).

    By that logic, without a thd measurement (and how do we know it's accurate?) how do we know ratings are accurate? What do we use to judge an amplifier before we buy it? We can't use ibanender's way of measuring, because it's inaccurate. Nobody can realistically measure thd, and nobody has resistive loads laying around so then what? He wants people to do things the way he does because he can then feed that to people and help them to decide which amp to use. If the right way to measure is nearly impossible, then should we not measure at all? Does that make this argument between the Sundown and the DD just "there's no way to tell?" Because that sucks ass, to put it bluntly. If the man who designs and has the amps built (Jacob) does it wrong then??!??!

    If numbers are inaccurate why have them? What does it prove? Again, if it were reported with the uncertainty of measurement then they would be valid.

    And to your second question, ratings are NOT accurate. How do you think crap sold at Walmart can carry the ratings they do? There are no tests that are valid that the manufacturers will pay to do.

    Don't pick on Jacob for doing it wrong. People like you are the reason he does it at all. There is a misconception amongst the car audio followers that requests these sort of tests. Based on his equipment he is doing what he can, but its only real purpose are to satisfy cravings of those who don't understand. Personally I would much, much rather buy from Jacob than DD and have a lot more respect for his products. Does that mean I've compared numbers exactly on them? No, and I don't care as I am worried about a slew of other things and not chasing tenths on a meter.

    But I have a question. If you was in RAM shoes, and you needed to find out which amp was louder in SPL, how would you compare them more equally and actually have a valid test?

    I'm not trying to be a smart ass or anything, but if the way he did it doesn't prove anything. I need to know how to it correctly for future reference.

    I'd figure out my uncertainties, minimize them, and then design a test that will show me something repeatable. Of course in my case it would include measuring distortion, but doing what I do means I have access to all sorts of gear like this for free.

    Maybe I missed it completely, but I don't think you answered all my questions. Ratings are inaccurate? How do I go about choosing an amplifier then? Do I just trust that the SAZ-1500d makes rated power?

    If rated power isn't important, then what's the difference between a Boss 3500w max, a Hifonics BRZ1200d and a Sundown SAX-1200d? I suppose the quality of the parts and whatnot, which is important. Also, customer service, which is important, and durability as well, but....all those are afterthoughts? You don't want a 500 watt amp on a BTL. You don't want a 2000 watt amp on a SSD. So how do I choose what amp to use with my speaker if the ratings can't be trusted? Forget walmart amps, that's a joke anyway.

    I apologize if "people like me" want to know how much power an amp makes before we spend money on it. I apologize if guessing at something like that makes me uncomfortable. I suppose that you wouldn't be able to hear the difference between an overrated 1500 watt amp that makes 1200 watts and an underrated one that makes 1800 and never even see those numbers due to impedance rise but does that mean we discard ratings? What I'm reading is...impratical. Can someone please link me to an example of a "properly conducted" test?

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  14. Posted · Edited by An-i-no

    To Imp, I know you're probably aware of this but I just feel that this needs to be stated clearly. The reason ibanender (probably spelled wrong but I'll edit it.) is so adamant in his argument is because he feels that you're arguing in favor of something that is non-existent (and even seems mythical) and therefor cannot show any definite results for. He's showing you numbers that he can measure, results he can feel, hear and enjoy and you're showing him theory with no results.

    As wrong as his numbers may be, his point is that he HAS numbers. He has something to judge against, a scale, if you will. If one test is wrong, and the next test just as wrong and he gains x.xx db, then he can say the second amp was louder. He CAN'T measure distortion, he doesn't HAVE resistive loads. From what I've seen, all the people who swear by perfect testing enviornments and procedures can't provide them so his argument is what's the point? (No offense, not saying that you can't).

    By that logic, without a thd measurement (and how do we know it's accurate?) how do we know ratings are accurate? What do we use to judge an amplifier before we buy it? We can't use ibanender's way of measuring, because it's inaccurate. Nobody can realistically measure thd, and nobody has resistive loads laying around so then what? He wants people to do things the way he does because he can then feed that to people and help them to decide which amp to use. If the right way to measure is nearly impossible, then should we not measure at all? Does that make this argument between the Sundown and the DD just "there's no way to tell?" Because that sucks ass, to put it bluntly. If the man who designs and has the amps built (Jacob) does it wrong then??!??!

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  15. Posted · Edited by An-i-no

    that could be part of the problem. big 3 should get done. Im no expert with electrical systems at all. I usually just do the big 3 and add the extra battery like you have already done. probably should make sure all your grounds are very solid and really consider putting in the work for the big 3. It couldnt hurt at this point. But if you are running that low of voltage i would be easy on your system at the least. dont push it hard at all. I had a vehicle along time ago that voltage would get very low and running it at 1 ohm would kick the amp into protect. Not good for the amp im sure.

    Yeah. is power output a linear function of voltage?

    Yes Sir. Volts x amps = watts.

    Technically you'd factor in efficiency and impedance but all that's sort of a moot point as you can get a larger alternator to make more volts and of course turn up the volume to get the amp to draw more amps but impedance will be all over the place and efficiency will be dependent upon all three of those so yeah. So just remember that volts x amps = watts lol It gets reeeeeaaaaal hairy trying to determine how much power you're making on paper. Leave that to the engineers.

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  16. Posted · Edited by An-i-no

    :WTFBubble: Escalades and Chargers arent show cars bro, get real. :roflmao:

    :suicide-santa: I can tell people my car is better than theres because im sticking up for someone. :roflmao:

    You cant be serious with that at all.

    It's whatever Jaycee....I respect your opinion. Just dislike being shit talked for this

    Aren't you the guy who wanted 8 Skars in the 4th order? What if they came in blown and he says it's UPS's fault? Oh he would never do that right because he's a good business man? Well he JUST DID THAT TO SOMEONE? I guess you're not old school. Where I come from it's "what have you done for me lately."

    And to Kevin, cmon bro. You're playing with $400. That's not chump change. If you're sure the amp was good when you sent it then give him his money back and keep on bein sure.

    yes, yes I am. My 4th order is built and ready for the subs which come in within the next day or so. I trust that the subs will be in perfect working order as they are in fact brand new. If not I think Kevin would help me in getting them swapped out for working subs. Just my .02 cents :)

    Knock trusted that his amp would too. The guy on ebay trusted that his would come PERIOD, blown or not. Step into his shoes. If you like Kevin, cool, no harm. But when you deny, deny, deny, you look bad and that's why people are being the way they are towards you. You deny deny deny with bad reasoning.

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  17. Posted

    :WTFBubble: Escalades and Chargers arent show cars bro, get real. :roflmao:

    :suicide-santa: I can tell people my car is better than theres because im sticking up for someone. :roflmao:

    You cant be serious with that at all.

    It's whatever Jaycee....I respect your opinion. Just dislike being shit talked for this

    Aren't you the guy who wanted 8 Skars in the 4th order? What if they came in blown and he says it's UPS's fault? Oh he would never do that right because he's a good business man? Well he JUST DID THAT TO SOMEONE? I guess you're not old school. Where I come from it's "what have you done for me lately."

    And to Kevin, cmon bro. You're playing with $400. That's not chump change. If you're sure the amp was good when you sent it then give him his money back and keep on bein sure.

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  18. Posted

    This... I mean, my bass isn't horribly disturbing anyway. My singe 12 off of 750rms is hardly enough to be considered a disturbance. I mean, I do turn it down sometimes, if it seems like it's really getting on somebody's nerves, but that's really not much of an issue around here. Spoiled ass kids are much louder than me.

    I have 2 18 inch DC level 4 with 5 softparts in them in a wall in the back of my Accord. I'm not spoiled. I have paid for everything in and about my system. And the amp for now is a 1800 kenwood (lol) till i get a 3.5k DC amp.

    Hey and just yesterday, i was bumping at a red light, this guy that pulled over to the right of me with his wife was saying something, so i turned down my music and then he goes, "dang that's pretty loud but check this out" and turns up his stock speakers as loud as they can go. We both laughed and his wife was pissed. Then i played another bass song for him and he gave me the thumbs up when the light turned green. I had like 4 experiences like that yesterday alone. Plus, if no one plays their bass loud, how will you know what other of "us" are out there? I have given demos to random people and i have been pulled over by people for demos. Couldn't have happened if i didn't play it loud.

    I agree. We're bassheads not vampires, we shouln't have to hide it. Now playing full tilt in the drive thru at McDonalds or setting off alarms in neighborhoods is douchy but I don't see why you should turn it down at red lights and then turn it right back up when it's green? Are you giving the people next to you a break or something?

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  20. Posted

    Ok, here's the story. I shop (window shop mostly) online 99% of the time on sites like Sonic, Audiosavings, and Ebay, so I found it refreshing to go visit a couple of real audio stores in my area so that I could actually see amps in person, listen to speakers, and tie some hyperflex in a knot. While I did have fun in the listening room and lookin over products the guys that worked at both places SUCKED. (Jack's Stereo and Schroeder's Audio in Waco, TX)

    First of all, I went to Schroeder's to look at some HAT Imagines as they were on the dealer list. The guy said he only had Clarus's in stock and that I could see them so I went ahead and did. So as we leave the listening room (which was non-functional and dark as hell) he drops the box in my arms to let me see how heavy they are and says "these are NO JOKE" as if I don't know what I'm dealing with. Then he asks what my system will be, so I told him "2 Sundown Audio SA-12's on 1200 watts." He asks what impedance I will run them at, so I say Dual 4 wired to 1 and he goes "ONE OHM??!??!" as if the entire system would melt from it. So then he recommends a Polk 600.1 for both and tells me that, and I quote, "there's a common misconception that the power MAGICALLY splits when you run two subs. No bro, the amp will push 600 watts to both speakers because it's a SIX HUNDRED WATT AMP." So I nod through his little bs speech and gtfo there. I can understand him trying to simplify things because I seemed rookie-ish but that info was flat out WRONG. Oh and he quoted me 300 bucks for a box built to specs for 2 SA-12's. He said "We will actually CALL the manufacturer and ask for the specs" as if I couldn't pick up the damn phone and do that too, but whatever :suicide-santa: .

    Jack's was actually not that bad but the guy behind the desk kept trying to sell us Type S stuff claiming that it was just as good as Type R and that Alpine was the best. So when I asked why they even stock type R stuff if S is just as good and he said that Type R's were their bestseller. :ehh:

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