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Posts posted by An-i-no

  1. So I'm planning on running one run of zero gauge from the batt to a distro block (Like the Kicker PDK1 if anyone feels like looking) so that I don't have to drill two holes in my firewall. But the SAX1200D just shot up from 315 to 375, (just outta my price range) so I'm gonna get a refurbished SAZ1500D from DB-r. My question is, since the distro block is going to be 0ga in and 4ga out, can I run two runs of 4 ga to the 1500D (as my other amp will be an SAX125.2) and feed the it the current it needs? Or will it not be enough and possibly overload my one run of 0ga? (it'd be a decent 0ga wire too, btw. Like Stinger or maybe Kicker)

  2. Ok guys, I was looking into a few stats on bench testing, and noticed that amps wired to ".5 ohms nominal" could see up to 1.5 ohms in reality. So, with that in mind, I read into box rise and all that good stuffs. I was just wondering, If I skip terminals on the box altogether and run wires through a small hole (that would be sealed up after of course) or out through a port would this help at all? Or would the longer length of wire just defeat the purpose? Thanks in advance, as always.

    Terminals and wire resistance is small compared to your actual impedance.

    Are you chasing tenths on a meter ?

    No, but I just like to know that everything is being used to it's actual potential. Ive seen some cases where what should be 600rms to each sub is only 3-400

  3. Ok guys, I was looking into a few stats on bench testing, and noticed that amps wired to ".5 ohms nominal" could see up to 1.5 ohms in reality. So, with that in mind, I read into box rise and all that good stuffs. I was just wondering, If I skip terminals on the box altogether and run wires through a small hole (that would be sealed up after of course) or out through a port would this help at all? Or would the longer length of wire just defeat the purpose? Thanks in advance, as always.

  4. Honestly not to be a dick but I am not a fan of this "brand X sub needs this much power to be good" (which is generally over rated RMS). I have an ICON on ~500 watts at most if I turn the bass knob up and it is more then loud enough for me, I ran Flatlynes on 250W a piece at most (pair of 12"s) and they were more then loud enough (both setups were in sealed enclosures). I'm beginning to lean to "loudness" being as subjective as something sounding good. When I say this some people only need ~130db from 25Hz to 50Hz. and don't care about hitting a bijillion DBs at one lone frequency.

    I guess in short what are you really expecting out of the setup, be as descriptive as you can.

    I understand completely bro, at first I was just gonna go ahead and get the SA-12's and give em the power that I had, but I despise disappointment and don't have money to spend on a do-over. I mainly want low, loud, and clean. I won't be visiting any comps and I don't wanna replace my stock alt (130 amp). There's a system in the car already that I inherited (which consists of two old pioneer blue cones running off of an old Alpine mrp something lol) but it refuses to get low and just isn't enough for me. I have a set of Hertz HSK165's (the older ones) that I basically stole off of ebay, serial numbers intact, and I have a NINe.1 sitting up under them. So...in short, I want to get low and I want to fear my volume knob.

  5. I want the SA-12's sooooooooooo bad, but like I said, I've been told that they need more than 6-700rms apiece.

    If I can get a little technical, what exactly happens when two speakers of near identical sensitivity, placed in an identical box, are given identical power? I assume they would be just as loud? But lets say one sub is built to handle ~1200rms while one is built to handle ~800rms, does it make a difference then? I guess what I'm saying is...would a Fi BL (for example) be just as loud off of 750rms as a Fi SSD? (If they had very similar specs, that is, besides power handling?)

  6. Ok. Here's the story.

    I got a check for 190 bucks. I figure, I'll buy my first sub. (Sold the RE SE-x to a buddy, change of plans) I'm doing 2 12's, so I buy a IA Lethal Injection. Couple days go by, no updates. So I email, and the guy at Vertexaudio.com tells me he's gonna shoot a call to Nick. (great guys to do business with btw) Turns out, they're out of stock on a certain part of the sub and Nick estimates 3-4 weeks on a restock. Now I read about his recent health troubles so I'd take his word for it, but in the meantime why not play the market.

    But lets backtrack now. Before I ordered the Lethal Injection, I was dead set on two SA-12's, however I heard that my measly NINe.1 was just not enough juice for them and the LI's would be louder. So then, I had a little conversation with Mr. Demuth over at T3 Audio, but I heard some news about them shutting down and then he stopped answering my emails...so...Then I took a look at the AudioQue SDC2.5's but everyone seems to agree they're more SPL-y (lol makin up adjectives). SOOOO....I'm comin to SSA cause I always get the best advice here...

    WHAT DO I DO NOW!!!!!

    Wait the month or so and buy two Lethal Injections? Buy back my RE SE-x's? Take a chance on T3 Audio? Underpower a pair of SA-12's?

    I hate when things go wrong in this hobby...as if I wasn't indecisive enough already lol. Thanks in advance guys.

  7. x2 on the image dynamics. Also, OP read up on WHY everyone is telling you to not have speakers in the rear. I'd rather show off how much I know about audio and setting up rather than how much money I got to waste.

    Oh trust me, I do my reading. I'm plenty aware of the cancellation issues it might cause, as well as not having more juice to give my front speakers. I think I'm gonna go with the Type R components, and just buy a spare set of tweeters for the rear. Boy do those Image Dynamic comps look nice, but I just can't afford it...well not at the moment anyway.

    While I have you guys' attention, any recommendations on tweeters?

  8. Either ditch the rear speakers all together, or if you feel you absolutely must have rear speakers keep the stock speakers back there and spend your entire speaker budget on the front speakers.

    x2 and get a good set of components for the front doors. Then if you ever want to upgrade the rear doors, you still have speakers till you save up enough money for another component set. :drink40:

    Appreciate the opinions guys, but I'm a showoffy kind of guy (cmon....aren't most of us?) and I would rather not have to explain why there isn't any sound coming of my back doors! I'm still in high school and plenty of friends'll be in and out of the truck.

    Do you guys have any experience with RE Audio Coaxials? Cuz I found those for super cheap...I'm hoping it's a deal lol

    Oh, and if I do go front components only, what's something nice for around 150-60?

  9. Ok guys. Subs are in the mail. Mono and 4 Channel amp will come with my next two checks. (RE SEx 12, AQ1200D, AQ4x90)

    As for the money I have now, I need 2 pairs of speakers. I have an Explorer, so 6x9's are out. I'm leaning towards 6.5 coaxials for the front, and either a cheaper pair of 6.5's or 6x8's for a rear fill. There is a hole already made for a tweeter in the door (as the car has a system in it already), so components would be a great choice, EXCEPT....I'm working in a semi-limited budget (not willing to spend more than 160 on both pairs). With all that said, I have two choices picked out.

    Rockford Fosgate T1652 for front, and P1653 for rear. Still a skeptic though, because I have never heard Aluminum Tweeters.

    Alpine SPR17C for front, and SPS-600 for rear.

    Which of these two would give me smoother midbass and a clear (but not too bright) tweeter? I also looked into RE Audio's Coaxials, but have read less than stunning reviews about them. If anyone has anymore suggestions for Coaxials that I can get for less than 90 bucks a pair, I'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

  10. Ok. Well I'm hoping my luck is as good as yours. I DO want an EQ though, I've grown super used to mine and love the ability to turn my sub/mids/highs up and down without having to browse through menus. Some songs are bass heavy and instead of fiddling with the gain and attempting to have a "universal EQ set" that works for everything, I'd rather just turn a knob lol

  11. Thanks for the fast and INFORMATIVE reply. One of the reasons I love it here and hate Ca.com

    Ok, not sure if this'll be clear, I'm pretty new to this, but here goes.

    I currently have an OEM headunit with an EQ acting as the headunit. (I guess. the remote wire starts at the EQ. Laugh if you want, but we were on a budget) I love the eq, it does everything I need it to and I really don't wanna replace it. But on to the noise issue.

    The EQ has a front aux input and I have a tape deck aux adapter on my OEM headunit. I lost my 3.5 cord which I was using problem free, NO noise. (Alt or ground loop) When the headunit is turned on (with or without a cd/aux input playing) god awful alt whine shows up and increases with the volume knob on both the eq and the headunit. (but NOT if I turn up my ipod while using the aux input) My grounds are solid, and I have gone through several "Locate your noise" processes with them all ending at the HU. I have no clue if simply replacing the HU will make this go away, but I'm still in the planning stages of my rebuild and am trying to factor in all possible costs. I read somewhere (I think it was here) that line drivers increase signal voltage, therefor decreasing the "noise floor?" Basically I just want what we all want. NO NOISE.

  12. Ok guys, I'm befuddled, so I'm hoping someone here can enlighten me. (without flaming me too much)

    I am in the market for a simple headunit. I am currently rebuilding my system and have plenty understanding of what I need and how to install it. What I am looking for, is a couple of technical fill-ins, to add the WHY to my WHAT & HOW.

    My system now has god-awful alt noise. I inherited it, so I just learned to turn the HU volume waaay down, and my aux input volume waaaay up, which sorta solved the problem lol. I refuse to go through a painstaking install to encounter this same problem, so I'm investing in an EQ to boost my input signal voltage (I think? I could look like an idiot right now) as I understand this will reduce noise. On to my questions.

    1. Do ALL EQ's come with a line driver? The one I'm looking at (Clarion EQS746) says 7V RMS as "max output level." I have no clue what that means.

    2. When using a line driver, what happens to the signal output of my headunit? Would a 4v HU with a 9V line driver have less noise than a 2v HU with the same line driver?

    3. I know power has to come from somewhere. How much added current does a EQ or line driver draw? Is it even a factor?