whitesharingan
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Posts posted by whitesharingan
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There was no instructions for the adheisive kit that fi sent. There's a spray & what I think is the actual adheisive.
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I've found youtube videos, but there was no instructions with the adheisive kit. It comes with a spray & what I think is the actual adheisive.
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I've never done a recone before, and I was wondering if there's instructions on exactly what needs to be done. And how to use the adheisive kit that comes from the website.
Thanks for any help.
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click on the (MX-3) it's a link to the page with info.
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you match the volts from your h/u preouts to the amp, so if your h/u preout volts are 4v then you want your amp at about 4 volts
But I have this in line (MX-3)
So I match the h/u's voltage to the sub. input of this unit. Then my
question is do I match the output voltage of the MX-3 to the signal
voltage rating on my amp?
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My amp has a signal voltage adjustment range of
150mV - 5V (RCA Input).
And my question is do I set the sub. output level
from the MX-3 Bass controller to 5V?
If it helps I have a RF T2500-1bd amp.
Thanks for any response.
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So in my case, will having the amps built in 28Hz 12dB/octave SSF
combined with a F-Mod SSF with a 30Hz value @ 12dB/octave,
attached in line, make everything perfect with a box tuned to 30Hz?
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I haven't had the time to start making filters yet..is on my to do list though.
When you do let me know and I'll be happy to pick one up.
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BUMP.
I know that there is only a little amount
of time set aside to do recones.
I would just like to know when my sub
might be shipped out.
Again if I could get a Mod. or somebody from
the recone department to reply to this that
will be great.
Thanks.
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I don't understand why Rockford won't spend the 3 dollars on a pot, 2 resistors and a capacitor to make it adjustable and 18dB/octave..
I assume that you are referring to the F-mod SSF found Here with the 30Hz value.
Also are you saying that the SSF should have a 18dB/octave,
because the one here only has a 12dB/octave.
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1:Is there a difference between these two?
2: Does the filter have to match the boxes tuning?
Or is there an acceptable range?
I have the RF T-2500.1BD amp with a 28Hz infrasonic filter.
3: If I use a box that is tuned at 32Hz, will this be sufficient?
4: If not where can I find a good subsonic filter?
Thank you for any answers or suggestions.
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Hello I sent in my 12" BTL to get re-coned, and I haven't received any word on when
it will be returned.
I sent a couple of E-mails over a week ago and haven't got a response from the re-cone
department.
My Order#I-15761/00.
If a Mod. can get back to me as soon as possible that will be great.
Thank you.
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When are you guys going to be open & ready for business?
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Woot. I don't mind the wait for 20% off.
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Hello, I was referred to you by users on the FI audio forums.
I'm looking for a box to fit my 12" fully loaded BTL (2010)
series subwoofer.
This will be going into a 2000 Toyota Camry, if it helps.
I would like to know how much it would cost to have this
made and shipped.
Thank you for your time.
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Contact Argent on here.
By "contact argent here." Do you mean E-mail you, or go to the Sound Solutions website?
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I'm looking for someone to build me the box specified in the "BTL Cut sheets" thread.
I have the Fully loaded 12" (2010) model BTL sub.
I would like to know how much it would cost (both for the box and shipping).
And I like to find someone who has made these before and knows what they
are doing.
If you can show me pics of your previous work that would be great.
I would prefer it if you had a PayPal account as well.
If there is anything you need to know from me, let me know.
Thanks for any replies.
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Check your amp make sure it is functioning properly.
What part(s) of the amp should I check,
And how do I go about checking them?
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Just yesterday listening to my system, and my sub went out.
I checked all the wiring and nothing looks loose.
And I don't think I blew it because there was no smoke when
it went out.
Is there an easy way to tell if it's blown or not?
Or if anyone might know what is wrong here,
please let me know.
The sub is a 12" fully loaded BTL that I bought this summer.
Any answers or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
And if there's anything else that you need to know,
feel free to ask.
Thank you.
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I was wondering what does the "FI" in FI audio stand for?
Thanks for any answers.
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If you have a dual 2ohm sub make sure you're amp is stable down to 1 ohm. If so that would be more of a load on the amp but produce more power. If youre amp is not 1 ohm stable wire it in series would put less of a load on the amp but produce less power.
I have a Rockford Fosgate T2500.1BD and I have it
wired like the first diagram I displayed.
Is that an actual 1 ohm load?
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second link, first option
Is wiring it the first way gonna reduce the load on the amp?
Making it a 2 or 4 Ohm load.
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I've seen a few different ways to wire a DVC sub
in parallel. but which way is right?
Here are a few diagrams that I have found online:
Everything Car Audio: Single DVC Subwoofer wiring
Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams, One 2 ohm Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Speaker
Are either of these ways right or wrong?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Is it a pre-fab box?
Yea, it's from woofersetc.com.
one of there ground shacker series.
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recone help
in Fi Technical
Posted
So I put the glue down, set the spider & surround down then spray the accelerater on the glue surrounding the two?
Or put the glue down, spray the accelerater on the glue, then set the spider & surround?