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M.C.BOB

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Posts posted by M.C.BOB

  1. Posted

    Subs: 2 dual 2 12" sa's

    Amp: kicker 2500.1

    Car: 01 monte carlo

    Currently I have a 3.5cu box with a slot port, both fired towards the rear. They were fired into the cabin and I got a 140.x. I was told firing them the other way (how they are now) would post better numbers. I've yet to get metered though and can't tell a difference by ear.

    The plan is to build a new box with a 6" aero port firing to the right with subs facing back. Can anyone chime in with a better suggestion or confirm this would post good numbers?

    -Thanks

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  7. Posted · Edited by M.C.BOB

    Went ahead and checked it out tonight while I have it out of the box. Neither coil is reading 2ohms now. Tested it from the posts and the main leads, still not reading 2ohms. No burns or anything, looks perfect. Wired it to 4ohms, and it's reading around 1.8

    I noticed when reading one of the coils if I push the sub to the side a bit it'll jump up to 5ohms, then slowly drop down.

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  9. Posted

    Does the sub still work at all?

    When I tested it yesterday it did not work at all.

    The aluminum 8-layer coils are quad-wound like most flat 8-layers -- if part of the coil goes out it would read 4 ohms (half open), 0 ohms (short), or no connection (both open).

    So it won't be a coil issue reading 2.8 -- it is either the terminal, a solder joint, or the leads themselves.

    I would check the lead wires next to the cone for burns.

    When you say leads are you taking about what I have circled here....

    44426_1610424382992_1307700942_31702681_2522761_n-1.jpg

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  12. Posted

    Purchased two D2 SA-12's about 6 months ago or so. The guy I bought them from bought them in Jan or Feb this year (2010) and they were re-coned with aluminum coils. I've just recently got a new amp and had everything completed then one crapped out on me. One coil is reading 2ohms, the other is around 2.8 and fluctuates. I'm just really disappointed this happen as I never put too much power them then, could it just be a result of a bad recone in the past? I'd like to get this back up and running asap.

    Thanks for any info :)

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  18. Posted

    I meant to say would an extra lead from the batt to the alt (under the hood, not the extra battery in the trunk) help voltage*, not the battery.

    Shortening the wire will not increase voltage, the best thing to do is to ad a length of fused wire from the front battery to the back battery in 1/0 or larger, link that to your battery in the rear, depending on the frame of your vehicle you might have to make one ground wire run or ground directly to the frame.

    Welding cable is your best bet for wire actually, a local store will normally sell it for about $2.50/foot for actual copper wire vs. copper clad aluminum wire.

    Alright good news. I was hopping I didn't waste the wire. I bought a 50tf spool of power wire, and 50tf of ground wire so I'm good on that. Thanks for the info man.

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  19. Posted

    Sup fellas. Figured I'd go ahead and introduce myself. Don't have a whole lot to say so I'll just talk a bit about my system. Currently have 2 dual 2ohm sa-12's. Powered by a crunch 1500.1. Bought this for 80 bucks when I upgraded from my previous system, so it's just temporary. Very soon I'll be purchasing a pair of saz-1500d's which I'm very excited about. I'm currently working on my electrical so I'll be ready for the monster amps. I also posted in the electrical section asking for some help on electrical. :D

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  20. Posted

    I'm currently running 2 dual 2ohm sa-12's and plan on upgrading my amp (currently a crunch 1500 lol, it's getting the job done for now) to 2 saz-1500d's. Right now I'm just saving up money for the amps and working on my electrical. I currently added a lead straight from the alternator to the battery. Replaced the lead from the battery to the chassis and sanded it to bare metal. Added a lead from the block to the the battery. And finally today I added a lead from the block to the chassis (using the same spots as the other grounds). Is upgrading this wire even necessary? After I put that on I had a reading of 14.1X. Turned on the system and it stayed pretty consistent not dropping below 14.00 volts. Used 1/0 gauge by the way.

    Anyway, I would like a higher voltage reading and had a few questions. Does the length of the ground leads alter the current flow? Meaning if I had shorter grounds would voltage raise? The block to battery ground pretty much goes across the engine bay (it's roughly a 4ft lead) same with the chassis to block lead.

    Lastly when I do upgrade my amps I'll add a second battery for them. Should I run the power lead from the front off the battery, or could I run it straight off the alternator? Or does this matter. Also I was planning on grounding the amps from the battery upfront. Is this a good choice or is there a batter option?

    As I was typing this I thought of another question. Would another run from the alternator to the battery help any? As stated before I have 0 gauge but unfortunately it has very think insulation. I may experiment with this over the weekend.

    Sorry for the long post I just want to get everything as perfect as I can. Any info is much appreciated.

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  21. Posted · Edited by M.C.BOB

    I'm currently running 2 dual 2ohm sa-12's and plan on upgrading my amp (currently a crunch 1500 lol, it's getting the job done for now) to 2 saz-1500d's. Right now I'm just saving up money for the amps and working on my electrical. I currently added a lead straight from the alternator to the battery. Replaced the lead from the battery to the chassis and sanded it to bare metal. Added a lead from the block to the the battery. And finally today I added a lead from the block to the chassis (using the same spots as the other grounds). Is upgrading this wire even necessary? After I put that on I had a reading of 14.1X. Turned on the system and it stayed pretty consistent not dropping below 14.00 volts. Used 1/0 gauge by the way.

    Anyway, I would like a higher voltage reading and had a few questions. Does the length of the ground leads alter the current flow? Meaning if I had shorter grounds would voltage raise? The block to battery ground pretty much goes across the engine bay (it's roughly a 4ft lead) same with the chassis to block lead.

    Lastly when I do upgrade my amps I'll add a second battery for them. Should I run the power lead from the front off the battery, or could I run it straight off the alternator? Or does this matter. Also I was planning on grounding the amps from the battery upfront. Is this a good choice or is there a batter option?

    Sorry for the long post I just want to get everything as perfect as I can. Any info is much appreciated.

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