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Mtopper

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Posts posted by Mtopper

  1. Posted

    :WTFBubble:

    I actually don't even have the st200s hooked up at the moment. I ran into troubles with my 100.2... Anyways I purchased a 50.4 on here and had to remove it because the position of the wall. But I plan on installing it back with weekend.

    Casey, you're Mac & Cheese, my name is Mack.

    anyways, still waiting on you to say your crossover points for the darn O2s. message Dave if you need to know all.

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  3. Posted

    Hey Mac, what do you have your O2 mids crossed over at?

    :peepwall: <==== my daughter asks me "whys he hidin" :gayhaaay1::eek5wavey: <====== my buddys are waiving...... SORRY CASE I was gunna respond and say :fing34: but well you met my daughter I couldnt resist :roflmao:

    So why did you quote me? I'm Mack, he's Mac.... not that hard haha.

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  5. Posted

    1. 21

    2. 14

    3. Helped my brother install a full system in his 2004 GTO when i was 14

    4. Green

    5. Male

    6. 1992 Pontiac Sunbird

    8. Google

    9. 10w3v1 ported off a 250/1 and some drop in Pioneer speakers off an entry level pioneer radio 2001 era

    11. Metro Detroit

    12. SSA, American Bass (don't judge)

    15. Ramrod... lol, who else can pull a 150+ in an astro off 2 18s?

    16. 4 Zcons, 1 Stetsom 14K, 6 Juice Box group 31, in my blazer doing a 155+

    17. Cadillac CTS-V wagon m6

    18. 2004 Pontiac GTO m6, 165mph as passenger, 2004 Saturn Ion Redline m5, 140mph driver

    19. Locally, Car tunes Roseville

    20. Salesman/delivery for Great Lakes Battery

    21. "Suck it Gill"

    24. GM

    25. Trucks or SUV

    29. Mountain Dew Code Red

    31. uh............

    32. 130.2 - JL Audio 1000/1 on stock electrical with an Audiopipe TXX-BD 10 sealed.

    33. SPL but built for daily rather than burps. Because i enjoy loud and clean

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  7. Posted

    ok, well, last night i'm rear ended when i'm at a dead stand still by someone doing about 15-20mph. Haven't been in an accident in 5 years (T-boned on that one) and i'm a little shaken up. I'm trying to figure stuff out on how to replace whats broken. I've never gotten a straight answer out of you M5. I was beyond pissed off about the accident and your responses were by no means helpful at first. I'm asking for help in figuring out what a good set of speakers to learn with would be. I'll start it fresh here so its easier for people to read. My apologies to those that i was vague for (no sarcasm).

    I have a 2004 chevy blazer 2 door.

    Stock locations are:

    tweeters in the dash firing at the windshield

    6.5inch woofers low in the door right by the hinges.

    6x9s halfway up the rear wall behind front seats

    I'm looking for a setup that will get loud while keeping a relative clearness to it. I'm not looking for a HT setup in my truck. I want to have a setup that will get loud when i crank up the volume to 45 on my Pioneer DEH-P880PRS (out of 60) but be easy to listen to at lower volumes such as 20.

    I said $200 because that is what i can squeeze out of my insurance company for the blown speakers i had. Retail on the VRs were $200 when purchased 2 years ago. Still have receipts and all that.

    Next year, if i like the sound i can get from an active setup using whatever it may be, whether it raw drivers such as peerless, Dayton, Tang Band etc. or PA speakers like the Seleniums, Daytons, or B&C, I will upgrade to a nicer setup.

    The other aspect of this is, if the drivers are cheap enough, i would like to do custom door pods and A pillars using multiple drivers to show off the work as a "WOW" factor.

    Kick panels are out of the question because i have a size 14 shoe and spend a lot of time driving my truck. It is my daily driver and for me to go visit my girlfriend at school is an 1.5 hour drive, to go hang out with friends is a 30 minute drive, my shortest drive is to work which is 5 miles. So, i spend a lot of time in my truck.

    Thank you Stefan and Sir Lancelot for your suggestions and help. I'm willing to do whatever to my door panels and A pillars because they are easy to find at local junk yards (welcome to michigan, home of GM and 1000s of Blazers/Jimmys) if i sell this truck in a few years.

    If i missed something needed, let me know and i can take measurements or find the answer.

    1

  8. Posted · Edited by Mtopper

    most cars and trucks can get away with just the kit. the relay is suggested so that you draw direct power from the battery rather than through the stock which isn't always able to keep up with the demand of the HID. error code eliminator is usually for foreign cars or the very expensive american cars.

    Tire is right though, HIDs in a stock housing non projector does throw the light everywhere and can be annoying as hell to others. But, it does help spread more light on the road. I have them in my Blazer's oem housing and they do pretty well at helping me see at night.

    In all honesty though, you only need the 35 watt kit. if you do go with the 55 watt, get the relay for safety reasons.

    I worked at a shop where all we did was window tinting, HIDs and vinyl work.

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  10. Posted · Edited by Mtopper

    Ok, thats why i asked for suggestions seeing as how i have never gone active before. Also, i'm willing to modify as i said. Also, i'm not guessing on brands. As i stated, i have modeled these in the programs i have access to and they have come out pretty well mated to each other. So, if it i'm just going to be told i'm wrong because i'm "guessing" and not get help when thats all i'm asking for...... i don't see the point in saying anything.

    Anyways-

    Fiberglass, anlged, on/off axis, whatever. i'm ok with whatever works best. I'm not ok with modifying to the point of no return on metal. body panels are easy to find at local junk yard.

    I will be building a competition vehicle for next season using the whole back end of my truck so it will become a 2 seater. So, i need a front stage that sounds great at low volumes but can keep up with the big booming systems that we have grown accustom to such as Ramrods 153db van.

    $200 is the end all be all maximum but i am going to try and stay around that cost.

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  11. Posted

    Are these speakers going in stock locations? If so, what are the stock locations and what size speakers can you fit there?

    Are you willing to modify door panels / dash to fit bigger speakers?

    this is the other half of 913 Customs he better be willing to MODIFY :peepwall:

    SUCK IT GILL!!!! i said im willing to right as you posted that haha

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  12. Posted

    sorry about that. i was on the phone with Ramrod when i posted.

    stock size is 6.5 in the lower door and stock tweeter is in the dash able to fit a 4x6. my current tweeters are in the door card because i didn't have enough speaker wire to put them elsewhere.

    i've been looking at these Daytons for the mid, custom pods for them to fit

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-374

    and these Vifa for tweeters

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-1006

    i figure i can also have a go at fiberglass while doing this thinking about A pillar pods for the tweeters and glassing the doors. I have my Massive Audio Nx4 to provide the power. 100 watts rms at 4 ohms, 200 at 2 ohms,

    Have also thought about using Pro audio since Ramrod has 2 Oxygen Audio mids at his house

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  13. Posted · Edited by Mtopper

    So i was just rear ended 2 hours ago at a red light. I have a 2004 chevy blazer and was the first in my lane at a red light. the guy next to me jumped and the girl behind me floored it in her dodge stratus. When it happened, my door speakers popped and do not work anymore. the fuses are all good, my amp still works as do my subs. So, i'm thinking about buying some raw drivers from Parts express and trying myself at an active 2 way since i have a Pioneer DEH-P880PRS.

    Anyone have any good suggestions for under $200 total? I've been looking at Vifa tweeters and Dayton mids because they are so cheap and yet model really well in a few programs i have access to. Thanks for any help

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  17. Posted · Edited by Mtopper

    stupid question..... did you have it fused or straight power feed? Dave has had a few talks with Stetsom on how to do it and they said something to the effect of either an 800 amp fuse/circuit breaker or a direct feed as short as it can be.

    god damn computer.... double post ftl

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  21. Posted

    I would've tried to close the rear hatch on your help while he was in there :roflmao: Looking good and making great progress bro :drink40: That is a shit ton of a battery bank :morepower1: I'm sure Ramrod is getting an enormous errection if he's seen your equipment being used :lol2:

    you should ask him what it looks like now. he has "voltage issues". Stetsom amp is loving his drops...... :ohnoes9:

    Steve, equipment looks sexy. crazy looking box too. would love to see this in person let alone see the damage they will be doing

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