stratusrt01

re-set the gains, adjusted the EQ, and I'm ready to make my short review after a 4 hour drive to SC and back tonight. I'm fairly impressed so far with this subwoofer. A few people heard it today, and couldn't believe I was running a single 12. 1st off, if you're looking for a nice, civilized subwoofer, this isn't it. When you want something just to break doors down and steal your oldest daughter, this could possibly be the subwoofer. While comparing it with the DD 9512 directly, it has better musical abilities than the DD, and doesn't give up much at all in pure loudness to the DD. I'll have them both on the meter later this week, so I'll know exact numbers then. My 1st impression after setting the gains to give the sub a clean 1500rms, which is rated power was that this thing needs more. I then bumped it up to right at 3000 watts, and in the 6th order, it seemed to be a bit overkill. I could get the sub to stink rather easily, although it cooled off extremely fast once I backed down a bit. The cooling system seems to work extraordinarily well on this sub. I kind of figured in a 6th order, 3000rms may be a bit much, but decided to give it hell anyways. Although I would feel comfortable doing bassrace in the bandpass with 3000 watts in my setup. I think that for daily driving, 2000-2200 watts would be perfect. Since there are really no posted T/S parameters on these, I'm going to place a guess that the Fs is in the low 40hz range. Couple that with the fact that my box peaks at 44hz, and my car peaks at 44 hz, this sub can only be described as brutal. It doesn't have that mechanical sound that I've come to hear from most SPL oriented drivers, especially the DD 9500's, which is great. It's a bit smoother sounding, but at least in my setup, where everything kind of collides at 44hz, this sub is a beast. If I wasn't enjoying it so much, I'd do some max power testing on burps, but I'm sure IA has already done that, so I'll stick with around 3000rms on it, and continue to just smile when people don't believe it's only a single 12.

I actually got some time yesterday to build the 6th order bandpass for the car. Going to slap it in the car today, hook up one of my SAZ-3000's to it, and give it a bit of a workout. I'll post my thoughts tonight on it, just wish my termlab was here, I'd give you guys some numbers on it, but the shop's closed today, and I don't have keys

Mine better not be blown!!!!!!!!!! Just checked the coils, and they both read 1.9 on mine, so it should be fine.

more than likely, yes.....

If he "modified" your 10" box to fit 12's, then he's not a real installer anyways. Sounds like you need to find someone who knows what they are doing. Where are you from, maybe someone from SSA is close and can point you in the right direction, which you are not in right now.

don't waste your money, buy yourself a nice dinner or something instead.

All valid points, but......... When the starting battery is low, the isolator cuts off the back batteries to recharge only the starting battery. You continue bumping, and all of a sudden (if you're pulling a lot of power), you rear battery voltage is down to 10v, and your amps shut off, or worse yet, you get the magic smoke, and can't figure out why. I've hooked DMMs up, and seen it happen, but cut it off before the voltage got down to critcal levels on the rear batteries. My advice for anyone is not to use one, and just don't bump with your car turned off. Besides, I need that extra amperage from the front battery to the amps....lol

Most people use mini-vans or cut through trucks here, but the rules make it so that anyone could do it. Last year, there was a Lexus here with a wall running Street Max.

Yeah, last trip I had planned, the weather up there in Ohio wouldn't cooperate with me, and then I'm in the middle of teaching a 30 day class here at work. I'm probably going to fly up there on Feb 3rd or 4th to pick it up though. Lots of work to do on it before it'll see the lanes again, but we've got a plan. I just wish there wasn't such a gap in the Euro vs. U.S. numbers, and it also seems that Ohio is the only place that really does a lot of Street Max 1-2 vehicles. Talking to a few harcore DB Drag guys here, they say that there aren't usually any SM 1-2 competitors in the lanes, and if they are, it's usually a car that has to be there, but isn't a contender. That actually sucks for me, I like to be pushed to get louder, not just show up and get a trophy. I've got the right backing and the drive to get the truck loud again, just need the time, which is coming. The truck is a great start, but Jay was always running short on time before events to get prepared. Just imagine what he could have done if he had all the time in the world to work on it. Jay also didn't believe in using "cheater" batteries, which I commend him for. Sorry for the thread hijack also, but it's just nice to see another SM 1-2 competitor using Sundown Amps. I may have to take a couple trips to Ohio later in the year, since it seems to be central for Street Max, so I can meet some of the other guys.

beginning of February, it will be in my possesion, I'm going to fly up and pick it up if need be.

A $2500 battery Exactly correct, one battery that costs $2500. When you're in a class that only allows 1 battery, but you're going to be pulling in excess of 1600 amps, you have to do something. I believe that's what the whole Street class fuss is about, people who can buy a $2500 battery have a distinct advantage over someone running a single standard Kinetik, Powermaster or Stinger 2150. My thoughts are that the people who have been running setups like mine should not be punished, and if they want a class where you can only run a smaller battery, they should create a new class, which would pull true Street Cars into the competition, instead of calling it a Street Class, and then allowing a battery up to 800 cubic inches to be used. If the rules says I can use an 800 cubic inch battery, then I'm going to use one. However, vehicles like his with the single Kinetik up front are at a clear disadvantage to vehicles like mine, which is where the controversy is in the Street Classes. It's turned into whoever has the most money wins street class, which is was never designed to be. However, if you compete in those classes, and want to get to the World Championship level (which noone in Street Max 1-2 from the U.S. has done in a while), you have to do everything within the rules to get there. The truck I have was the loudest Street Max 1-2 vehicle in the country last year, and was still 5db off the Europeans scores. That was with a single Stinger 2150. This year, it's getting the new BATCAP/ DC Audio 40k and 20 runs of wire. Sorry, but that's what it takes.

I'm sure, that's kind of why I haven't thought about buying the battery yet. That's really the only real major change they can make, which will determine what I will be running under the hood for this season. If they go to SM 1-4, I can adjust for that in my truck fairly easily to add 2 more subs without a lot of heartache.

I think it's too late to change the rules for this year, since they've already had a couple World Record Shows, so I'm going to build away. I think sanity will win out, and they'll do some Real Street classes instead of screwing with the rules already in place. At least I hope so, or I'll have a $2500 battery I can't use, which will upset me very much.

I'm sure it will do the job nicely. I've always used DD's for my high powered setups, but lately their build quality has been slacking. I've gotten about 5 subs in the past couple months that has misaligned coils from the buildhouse, spiders coming loose from the basket, and dead coils from the buildhouse, so obviously it's time to move on. Nick, I'm actually the one who called you yesterday asking about the DP 21's for my truck. If the 12" version meets my requirements, we can do something big in the truck with the 21's for my Street Max 1-2 build on 4 SAZ-3000's.

I believe he said "cheaper" not "cheater"........lol

I couldn't agree more...

Awesome, I'm going the same thing right now, rebuilding someone else's SM1-2 vehicle and using the same amps, so it should be fun. See you in the lanes!!!!!!

SSA FTW?

couple problems I see here: DD 9500 needs more than 1500 watts, if you have 1500, look at the 3500 instead. The 9500 is also an spl woofer, I've owned tons of them, and they have nothing that resembles SQ at all. The BL is just a toned down SPL sub, has a little better SQ than the 9500, probably about the same as the 3500 from what I've messed with them. The only true LSQ LSQ, whatever you want to say woofers that were listed are the Magnum and the Icon.

What voicecoil configuration do you use, I will be using four 3000ds in Street-Max 1-2. I will be running 4 in my StreetMax 1-2 vehicle also.

Should house a Sundown 100.4 and a pair of SD-1 10's soon. Just finished the woodworking, carpeting is going on now. I'll post some pics when it's all in and carpeted. As soon as the amp gets here, I'll build a plate to flush off the amprack.

Nick's always a lot of help.

now it just needs equipment, so I can build the top plate for the amprack and make everything flush.