Jmac

Weak ... Too bad you didn't get off lucky like I did ...

I just voted 5 to bring it back up to 5 ... Happy ?

Ugh, I bought a 1 GB Kingston for my GF and immediately regretted it. The thing is so freaking slow, it's unbearable. On top of that, she ended up breaking it in about 3 weeks because it's made of cheap plastic. Mind you, I'm sure the speed would be acceptable if I didn't already own 2 Corsair Flash Voyager GTs (1 GB and 4 GB). 18 MB/s transferring hundreds of photos vs. 2 MB/s is a huge difference when it's a 700 MB batch (40 seconds vs. 6 minutes). Best money I've ever spent on storage. If you're just transferring small amounts of data at a time, it's fine. But then why do you need a 4 GB drive ? If you're getting a high-capacity flash drive, I recommend getting one that uses SLC flash memory instead of the cheap, but MUCH slower and much less reliable MLC flash memory. It'll cost more, but it's well worth it on the high-capacity drives. The OCZ Rally II series is $20 for a 4 GB drive ($4 more than the Kingston), uses an alunimum chassis instead of a flimsy plastic chassis, and uses SLC memory instead of MLC. It's not the top-grade SLC that's in the Voyager GTs, but it still beats the crap out of MLC. Expect peak read/write speeds in the 15-20 MB/s area with 5-10 MB/s read/write speeds when transferring large volumes of small files (i.e. pictures). http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16820227145

Ballmer's a douche ... At least Gates is interesting to listen to ...

Plus you won't spend all day waiting for them to upload to your computer.

I can't say I've used either one, but just remember ...More megapixels is NOT necessarily a good thing. It has to be implemented properly and you have to have a need for more to be of any value. For example, if you print posters or like to crop out large portions of your photos, a higher-resolution sensor is definitely something that will benefit you (again, if the manufacturer implements it properly). The most important part to good photos are the lenses you use and, of course, the user's ability to select the right lens, settings, and composure for the shot.

Yay, summer is here ... Too bad I have to go back to work tomorrow instead of enjoying the sun

Toshiba doesn't offer any units in Canada with XP as far as I'm aware. Though Vista is perfectly fine as long as it's set up right (I did a 7-page comprehensive setup guide for my store's associates that's extremely simple to follow) and there are a ton of ways to improve performance and usability. Properly-setup Vista > untouched XP any day, in my opinion. It'll take about 6 hours to properly set up Vista, but it's well worth the time investment. BTW, tomorrow is the last day of that sale, Steve ...

Thinkpads aren't available in a 17" screen ... and a similarly-equipped Thinkpad comes out to $1250 ... You can get that HP w/ a 3-year accidental warranty and a high-capacity 12-cell battery for the same price from Staples while getting a larger screen, full keyboard, and licenses for XP and Vista instead of just one or the other. For the price you can get RAM these days, you might as well upgrade before DDR3 production starts ramping up and DDR2 prices start to head upwards. Besides, more RAM means less hard drive accesses which will provide better battery life and put less stress on the hard drive (less chance of hard disk failure) in addition to better performance.

Well, Steve's in Canada, so none of those models are available to him. I recommend the HP 6820S Business laptop at Staples ... On sale for $850 right now ... Will meet all those demands and then some ... and it comes w/ both Vista Business and XP Professional, so you can choose which one you like better (Personally, I like Vista better, but to each their own). http://www.staples.ca/ENG/Catalog/cat_sku....;affixedcode=WW I also recommend upgrading to 4 GB of RAM. It's about $80 + shipping ($60 after MIR) and well worth it, especially if you go w/ Vista. http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku...mp;promoid=1001

It's $115 after mail-in rebate, $145 before ... I don't take into account MIRs because half the time, you don't get your money back ... plus it takes 2 months to get it if you do ... There are multiple 8800 GTSs and based on different cores. The 8800 GTS 320 MB is based on the old G80 core. It has a core clock of 513 MHz, a shader clock of 1188 MHz, and a memory clock of 1584 MHz. It features 96 shader processors, 24 Texture Mapping Units (TMUs), 20 Raster Operation Processors (ROPs), and a 320-bit memory bus. It was also available in a 640 MB version. Later revisions of the 640 MB version increased the number of shader processors to 112. The new 8800 GTS 512 MB is based on the new G92 core and is much more powerful. It has a core clock of 650 MHz (+27%), a shader clock of 1625 MHz (+37%), and a memory clock of 1940 MHz (+22%). It features 128 shader processors (+33%), 64 TMUs (+167%), 16 ROPs (-20%), and a 256-bit memory bus (-20%). The 8800 GTS 320 MB you listed there is about on par w/ the cheaper HD 3850 and marginally cheaper than the more powerful 9600 GT. In addition, both cards I listed offer SUBSTANTIAL power savings over a G80-based 8800 GTS, offer HD decoding capabilities, offer HDMI outputs w/ sound (HD 3850), and are cooled by a single-slot cooler, which means it will not impede on other expansion slots in the computer. Also, the odd 320-bit bus does have problems with certain games, though this is usually fixed through a patch (may be an issue if you pirate your games and don't have access to patches). I, myself, have a G80-based 8800 GTS 640 MB that I purchased in December 2006 and it's a great card, don't get me wrong ... It's just not a good choice now due to technological advances over the past 1.5 years.

Right on! Computer related I imagine? Yeah ... New house has a 900 sq. ft. shop in the back ... It's a wood shop now (previous owner is leaving behind all the table saws, drill presses, etc.) and I could have a lot of fun building boxes for a short time, but that wouldn't fit into my business plan Also, it's already fully-secured (triple-deadbolts, alarm, barred-windows welded to steel frame, cameras) mostly due to the fact he was using it to house all his wood-working and auto repair equipment (saws, drills, welders, etc. as well as performance parts as he raced his car semi-professionally) and, unlike most shops, it's fully-insulated, so it won't get unbearably cold during the winter.Ultimately, I am going to be turning it into a computer repair shop primarily and will also hold weekly classes aimed primarily at the elderly. The town I live in has a population of roughly 50,000 with almost 60% being over the age of 50. There's only one competitor in terms of classes which is the local univeristy/college, which offers only a 3-month course for several hundred dollars and class size is between 20-30/course. I think (and know, given the surveys I've received back) that there would be a huge market for a computer course offered on a pay-per-class basis with small class sizes. I've also considered renting out the shop for LAN parties on weekend nights as well, given that I would be in-town, have lots of space for parking, and the shop has 30A breakers. It's still going to be a bit off given I would like to have any and all possibly-applicable certs before starting the repair side afterwards I'll be charging $60/hour for repairs at the shop, $90/hour for on-site service (by appointment), $120/hour for emergency/immediate on-site service. I plan on starting the courses ASAP, though, as I have already received almost 5 dozens surveys back w/ the vast majority of them saying they would be very interested in attending classes. I plan on holding classes 1-2 times per week, 3 hours per class, 6 people per class at a cost of $50 per person ($300/class ... $2400/month if I hold 1 full class per week). I'll also probably be renting a room to my friend who is also well-versed in computers and he'll probably be working for me if the demand is high enough. I'm still waiting to move into the house first, of course, before I can do anything ... July will be sweet ...

Tom's "Best Graphics Cards For The Money" guide is pretty good ... One of the few things Tom's Hardware is good for ... http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming...cards,1805.html For under $100, they recommend the HD 2600 XT ... I'd have to say I agree ... The 2600 XT provides performance between the 8600 GT and 8600 GTS while consuming less power, producing less heat and noise, offering superior HD decoding, and HDMI output with sound. Great multimedia card. The HD 2400 series is a half-decent choice if you're looking for something in the $50 range, although playing modern games will really stretch it thin ...

Night evrybody

SSo drunk ... gotta work romottow morning ... ugh ... at least it's friday ... I'm getting so pissed @ NCIX ... We need a newegg here or something because NCIX is bulshit ... at least lately ... They didn't send the OS or memry for me latelt build and id doesn't look like they're gong to get it to me until next week (I ordered everythong on MOnday night, so it hsoudl've been here Wednerday morning, but idid n't even get here until doay which was fucking gay). I sent like 7 e-mails back and forthe in the last couple of days as well as coalled them wtice and theh won't even let my GF pick it up on my behalf hfrom on eof their stores before she comes over this weekend ... I'd buy ocal but theyr'e so much more expensie tthan NCIX ... NNote to self: Next time you have friends over and they have Firday off, DO NOT have a drinking contest ... Between us we doened a 26 of Amaretto and half awhiskey of whisky ... tomorrow isn't going to e fun ... especially since the district manager is visinting the store ...

Technology Consultant/On-Site Technician for Staples at the moment. Starting up my own business soon.

LOL, seems like something I would've wrote ...

Overall ... he enjoys it? I assume you have either driven it or ridden in it or both ... your thoughts? I do like the interior too. Were the minor problems covered by the warranty? Any idea (roughly) how much he has dropped on those repairs? He's happy with it when its not in for repair ... He said he's probably going to trade it in this year because the warranty is expiring soon and he doesn't want to be paying the bills out of his own pocket ...To the best of my knowledge, he's had continuing problems with the fog lights, heated seats, and fuel tank sensor. There were a couple other things as well, but I don't recall exactly what they were, but they were enough to put his car off the road for a week at a time. Overall, I think he enjoys it. He said he's probably going to trade it in for an Acura, though.

The dealerships go to the auctions and pick up the cars around here - or someone in their network. Guy flat out said that the reason that there are a ton of '07 Impala's on the lots (in BC and AB anyway) is because of one of the programs GM has ... they were rental vehicles. No thanks. I'll have to do a little research on the '04-'05 CTS. I could definitely settle for that now. My buddy has an '05 CTS and has had a ton of minor problems with it, mostly related to electrical systems and sensors ... The interior is very nice, though and there's plenty of power ...

Just one direction? Only under acceleration? Does it happen without turning if you are on/off the throttle? What kind of car? Only under acceleration, both directions (left and right) ... Doesn't happen when I'm not turning and doesn't happen when I'm turning but not on the throttle. Car is an '87 Nissan 200SX. Repetive clunk or just once when you turn? Repetitive until I let off the gas or stop turning ... Sounds bad, almost like it is poorly shimmed or worn to a point where it needs to be addressed. Is the fluid clean looking? The fluid was changed like 3 months ago (if that), so it's fine ... The rear end is 21.5 years old now, so it's quite possible it's worn out, especially considering I like to get sideways ...

Steve, I can't say I've driven many new cars lately, but I've heard good things about the Nissan Altima, Mazda 6, and Ford Fusion ...

Just one direction? Only under acceleration? Does it happen without turning if you are on/off the throttle? What kind of car? Only under acceleration, both directions (left and right) ... Doesn't happen when I'm not turning and doesn't happen when I'm turning but not on the throttle. Car is an '87 Nissan 200SX. Repetive clunk or just once when you turn? Repetitive until I let off the gas or stop turning ...

Add some friction additive / modifier and it should go away. Link ?

Just one direction? Only under acceleration? Does it happen without turning if you are on/off the throttle? What kind of car? Only under acceleration, both directions (left and right) ... Doesn't happen when I'm not turning and doesn't happen when I'm turning but not on the throttle. Car is an '87 Nissan 200SX.

My limited slip differential is making clunking noises when I turn hard while accelerating ... Anyone know what would cause that ? I checked the lubricant level and it's fine ... and it was drained and refilled a few months back, so it's new lube ...