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Posts posted by accordwithbass
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Yeah its like pmureikas picture, my Fis are like that, this old sub i wired for my buddy the other day had the X pattern thing with the coils.
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Should be the same thing on both sides, look at the colors, if its red left black right on on side, then its the same on the other, my subs are like that. its like an X
R B
B R
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I found this by google Fi and some other subwoofer stuff, looked around the website and determined it was sick! So I signed up and been reading, and posting ever since. Great website and forum.
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I need these as well, I have a 2.5" drop in the rear. My picture shows my old accord, I have a scion XD now with 2 batterys in the back, 18" BTL and all the wood ready to be assembled into a box, plus im adding 2 more amps... for more door speakers
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Scion XD, 4 dr hatchback, Sub up port up, box is 38"x20"x20" I will have the sub on the far right and the ports on the far left in a square shape. That should be fine right?
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Im using 4 4" aero ports. The box I will be mounting them to is 38"x20"x20" with an 18" sub on one side facing up. The 4 wont fit in a line since their flare is 7"+, so my question is, should I do sub in the middle with the ports on the side of the box facing back 4 in a row, or can I make a square with sub up port up, Will having 2 ports closer to the sub than the other affect anything? or will air movement be equal between the 4?
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I don't want some 150 watt 18" crappy PA speakers
Exactly what I'd recommend. 150w on a true PA sub will do more than 1000w on a non-crappy boutique sub for his application. Choosing based on need is more important...
He has gone through multiple speakers, from 100 watt to 1000 watts. From pyle to JBL. He is using JBLs now for everything but wants a 1000 watt+ sub set up because he wants the crowd to feel it. Its not my call on what he gets its his so im finding options for him. His jbls would distort when the bass drum hit so this is why he wants a separate speaker for bass. And I cant change his mind. Hes dead set on huge power
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Thanks, well its his kick drum, some im guessing upper 40s? I need to do some research on PA boxes, but im trying to get an idea on speakers, ill look up those Eminence speakers. Thanks
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So im building a box for 2 18" subs for a drummer of a band, it will only be used to reproduce the kick drum, and maybe the bass guitar. But what subs should I use? I don't want some 150 watt 18" crappy PA speakers, what subs can I use for this, he will probly be putting out 1000-1500 watts on the amp he will be using for the subs. Also should I tune the box higher or keep it at around 35hz. The band plays rock music, and im used to building box for cars that play rap. Thanks.
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I saw a guy with a old crx at a competition I went to a couple weeks ago, and he had 2 12" wardens powered off some big (I think it was an american bass amp or sound digital) amp. Ive never seen IA before and his 2 subs hit a 157.8 on the TL, I was impressed, he was the loudest guy there. But his entire car came on in on a trailor and was stripped; it was designed for whatever note he played so daily probably wouldnt sound good. IA seems like a good brand, thats my input. I wonder if he has a build anywhere
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I could also get the sundown e15s. They are 400 watts so that will get closer to the 2200. Ill set my gains with a smd distortion detector and build a smaller enclosure for them, correct?
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Im about to buy 4 new subs, I have the DD M3a which says it puts out 2200 watts at 1 ohm. If I got 4 dcons, do you think they could handle this power? Or should I jump up to the 500-7000 watt speaker range? I heard the dcons are very efficent at 300 watts, I would be doubling their power. Im thinking I could do this if I turn my amp down so Im not giving them the full 2200 watts? Opinions?
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Ive seen good results with Hifonics amps if your looking to stay on the cheaper side.
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lol, I don't think I wait that long, im getting XCON or ZCON 18s now. But I cant wait until watts09 gets his hands on these, im sure they will be beast in his car!
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Man I cant wait, I think everyone wants to see a DCON wall, and a low power cone area wall. This is sure to be sweet, I can't wait to see everything unfold
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I take it as he heard his amp is capable of 5kw at .5 ohm, so assuming the .5 ohm output, at 1ohm would it push the same power as some of those amps he listed? Notice he didn't list 5kwrms amps, he listed 3k-3500 watt amps at 1ohm...
He even stated in a later post that he heard the saz3500d pushed 4-5k at .5 ohm, which WOULD be a direct comparison to his original post stating the 5k he heard HIS amp put out at .5 ohm....
so I would say he is trying to figure out how much power his amp could put out at .5 ohm with proper electrical and what other amps would it compare to?
Either way, your still resorting to a rudimentary method for comparison.
Pretty sure that's all he's asking for, is a basic comparison, like, what to expect? Is it worth doing? Why does it seem you are posting only to be negative and try to make yourself seem more intelligent, where you are actually doing just the opposite...still curious how you think comparing output of two amps on same load at assumingly same voltage is apples to oranges....
I'm not trying to be negative, I just wanted to point out a flaw that unfortunately effects the very thing the OP is looking at.
I never said comparing amplifier outputs with the same load is apples to oranges, I said comparing amplifiers with different loads.
I did however say "either way", which would imply that even if the loads were the same, you are still using a flawed method for comparison.
Logically one could think that you could max out each amplifier with the same load, with the same equal clipping, and measure the output. Then it would be a fair comparison?
Perhaps this could work, I don't know.
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Sorry OP for cluttering your thread with my pompous thoughts.
Well hell, Ill just assume with a solid electrical at 1ohm, im putting out 3000 watts. Problem solved.
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, but they post in their description something like "This amp is known to put out over 3000watts".There simply isn't enough information from that for you to make that assumption. At what voltage is the M3a putting out over 3000 watts? I could see that on a 16v electrical system. Which would make it comparable with the SAZ-2500 again.
So Id say its in the same range as a 3500d.Besides, if you knew the answer to your question then why ask it?
I came to that decision after reading the posts people put
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Thanks mjmarovi, that helped alot, I couldnt find that video on youtube, im glad you posted it, so it looks like it puts out about 5k on .5. Ill be running 1 ohm with a solid electrical. Also I hate that apples to oranges crap, oranges are healthier for you so the orange would win. Also the site says 2200 watts, but they post in their description something like "This amp is known to put out over 3000watts". So Id say its in the same range as a 3500d.
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Around 38
Thanks, and it still got loud at 30-35hz? How did the subs handle that? My Fi Q 15 subs move very little on their 33hz tuning but If I play then at 30hz they reach their xmax at half volume, I cant play below tuning without the subs going crazy. How do the Zcons act?
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quick question, what was your 2 18s walled tuned to?
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Any updates with the GCON?? I need 4 subs with that 750 power range for a good price, the AQ SDC2.5s have that range but they are d4 :/ I need d2s!!!! Im doing the same as watts09 just with 15s off 2200-3000 watts
. I want these soon or ill give in to AQ... Hopefully they are coming out very soon!
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huh, well ill get some meters out at my auto shop and see what the output of my amp is right now at 2 ohms, then I lll do it again in about 2 months when I get my electrical upgraded.
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I ment a 3500 not 4500. Typo, Ill fix it
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And then a saz-4500d at 0.5 would be 10kw?
Lol, no thats know what I mean. Ive done some research and put out about 4-5k at like 14v. But I guess everyone could be wrong.
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importance of smoothness
in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
Posted
I had to use mat in the corners of my box, because the lumber store made my cuts to short and had to put a 3/4"x3/4"x 18.5" piece in each corner. So I matted the corners for strength, then I just poured a ton of fiberglass with hardener on the bottom of the box, spread it out then let it settle and almost dry, then tipped the box and did the same with each side on the inside. The baffle I did speratly then add more fiberglass where the baffle met the box once it was glued. I like said above, it probly wont make a difference to the ear, but on the meter is might. I just did it for strength