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dmz2711

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Posts posted by dmz2711

  1. Posted

    ///M5, AWSOME tutorial on how to measure box tunning!! I was always wondering about that, now I finally have a conclusive answer on how to do it. :D

    The one question I was wondering about, is how to find box tunning when there are two or more subs(sharing the same enclosure airspace) as well as two or more amps in the setup? Would it be best to wire the subs in series(or parallel?), and just use one of the two amps to determine enclosure tunning(using the same method as you described)? or is there a completely different method for multiple subs and amps? thanks again!!! :D

    Its been a long time, but I am still wondering about this question?? Now that there have been some new recent replies, would anyone know the answer? thanks.

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  2. Posted

    The key in your statement is the proper frequency as the drivers can only do the specs at either the specified passband or of course a narrower one. On the same note, if you are bypassing the tweeters crossover it is very, very possible that it cannot take that amount of power as the crossover most likely has a L-pad attenuation circuit built into it.

    i see what you are saying, thanks! the thing that confuses me about that, is the kicker ss tweeters, kicker sells the ss component set rated at 100 watts, and they sell the ss tweeters seperately rated at 100 watts. I was just wondering if you broke up the component set, got rid of the crossovers, and had an active system, can they take 100 watts each (the mids, and the tweeters), considering the same tweeters sold seperately can handle that power? (again, I am not looking to put that much power to tweeters, i am just confused on how everything works). thanks again! :)

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  3. Posted

    doesn't really matter does it??

    it is still two speakers sharing the input power

    seems like what you guys are saying goes against physics...a watt is a watt

    thats the same thing that was confusing me.

    the main thing that stumped me was, if the whole component system is rated at 100 watts, then the tweeter and midrange should be able to handle that much power individually (with the proper frequency), incase i wanted to run an active system.... although that is alot of power and I would probably never do it, but in theory they should handle the power.

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  4. Posted

    Thanks JimJ, so in conclusion (lol), if the component system is rated at 100 watts, I should have no problem running active with 100 watts to each tweeter, and 100 watts to each midrange, correct?

    The mid should take 100w, but the tweeter won't need anywhere near that much power to level match with the mid so don't worry about it

    thanks! yeah, i figure the tweeter will not need that much power, and I would not feed it that much power, i think it would be way to strong for my taste, but in theory, shouldn't it be able to accept 100 watts if that is what the components are rated at?

    thanks for everyones input, it helped out alot!! fing05.gif

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  7. Posted

    Each driver on the crossover will receive 100W minus the power the crossover dissipates.

    ok thanks, but does that mean that i have to provide 200 watts of power to the component set? I still don't understand how both speakers can see the same amount of power, isn't there a split? i am sure you are right, but can you elaborate? thanks so much!!

    No you dont have to put 200watts. For an easy way think of it like this 20khz - 2khz (just example numbers) your tweeter receives 100 watts of the power and for 2khz to 60hz (just example numbers) the mid receives 100 watts. Its not splitting the power but splitting the frequency range. hope I explained it right and clear

    ok, awsome, great explanation!! thanks so much! out of curiousity, can the tweeter and the midrange play different frequencies (lets say 15khz, and 500hz) at the same time? or is there really a delay that we don't notice because it is to fast? mine sound like they go at the same time, but what do i know, i'm just wondering... thanks again for your help!

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  8. Posted · Edited by dmz2711

    Each driver on the crossover will receive 100W minus the power the crossover dissipates.

    ok thanks, but does that mean that i have to provide 200 watts of power to the component set? I still don't understand how both speakers can see the same amount of power, isn't there a split? i am sure you are right, but can you elaborate? thanks so much!!

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  9. Posted

    Quick question that i should know but i don't. I know crossovers split frequencies to tweeters, and midranges, but do they split the power provided as well?

    For example, if I have kicker ss components which are rated at 100 watts, and I provide a 100 watts from my amp, are the tweeters seeing 50 watts, and the midranges seeing 50 watts? or does it mean, that there is a constant 100 watts of power being supplied to the tweets/midranges at the same time, making each speakers capabilites 100 watts rms?

    If they do split power, why do they rate the same exact tweeters which are sold seperatley(not part of a component set) at 200watts peak/100watts rms if they are only feeding them 50 watts in the component set????

    man, I am confused!!! :puzzled: can anyone explain??? thanks.

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  12. Posted

    Is there a way, such as a calculation, or some type of rule of thumb to determine what alternator, as well as how many batteries it will take to run a certain system? Are there any guidelines to determine these values? For example, lets say i have a 5000 watt system, can i plug that into an equation, or some sort of outline to determine what size alternator i would need, and how many batteries i would need? or if i wanted an 8000watt system, same thing.... Is there a rule, like for every 1000watts you need a certain amount of amps within a battery? :blink: I am not trying to figure anything out for myself, I am just askin for basic knowledge to see if there is an easy way to determine this (mostly about the extra batteries part), thanks in advance!

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  14. Posted

    ///M5, AWSOME tutorial on how to measure box tunning!! I was always wondering about that, now I finally have a conclusive answer on how to do it. :D

    The one question I was wondering about, is how to find box tunning when there are two or more subs(sharing the same enclosure airspace) as well as two or more amps in the setup? Would it be best to wire the subs in series(or parallel?), and just use one of the two amps to determine enclosure tunning(using the same method as you described)? or is there a completely different method for multiple subs and amps? thanks again!!! :D

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  15. Posted

    Scott and ///M5 There are 2 rear chambers both firing into the center chamber. 2 baffles firing at each other except the woofers are mounted offset so they are NOT firing directly at each other! We had 6cf in each rear chamber and 12cf in the center chamber. The port was 17"W 28"H 4 1/2"L. Tuned to 32hz I think? Also we were using 4 RFpunch 18's 250 RMS pushed by an Orion "beast" 2250SX 2ohm stereo almost 18 years ago. Recreating with the 4 FI Q 18s and will be using 1 RF4000 and not soon enough 2 RF4000's. Will I be needing dual 1 or 2?

    Scott please figure all this in when you play with the numbers. I'll try and get you a rough pic of my box design and thanks for your time. This build means alot to a bunch of people.

    I told Shawn if i didn't work out we could tear it apart (he suggested just ripping out the baffles) and I'll go reg ported. I really want it to work with bandpass though!

    DMZ2711 Great question! Also Thanks for givin' me a demo at Shawn's shop yesterday. (DMZ2711 is you right?) Let me tell you all about it. He played 4 different songs for me and I was thinking "yeah" it sounds like 2 15's the window is moving what looked like 1/2 an inch it was kinda loud but didn't feel alot of pressure. Remember I've been sponsored and I've had really big systems. Anyway Shawn walks up and told him to turn it up. He put in a cd cranked up the volume and let it rip! WOW!!! The windshield really stated moving and I even felt a pleasant uncomfortable itching in my left ear. The pressure was inreased 4 fold and all off of 2 BTL15's (pretty small ported box considering)in a small car running off 2 Kicker 2500's (I think). Not to jack my own thread but I was very impressed. They were going to add 3 more batteries when I was leaving. Kudos Joe Rod

    yeah thats me. :) Thanks! I am glad you like the little demo. To be honest, my ears were killing me the rest of the night. Hopefully I could go louder, but i need some ear plugs from now on! ;)

    I hope you get your box figured out, if I could help at all just let me know. Take care man!!

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  16. Posted

    Just really quick look at things... 7 cuft front chamber with (randomly selected port size) 10" X 19.5" X 23" long port and a sealed rear chamber of 14 cuft looks OK. Tunes port to 46 Hz and gives you a useable f3 of about 24 Hz and 90 Hz. You can add a bunch of poly fill... up to about 10lbs and drop the bottom end a Hz or two more. Saddle shapped with -3 in the center at 45 Hz. But it should blend well overall and have plenty of bottom end.

    Ill go through tonight with my favorite program and confirm all of this.

    Thanks,

    Scott

    not tryin to hijack this thread, just have a quick question. Out of curiosity what program do you use? I've used a couple different programs, and online calcs, but all give various figures when it comes to port length, peak freq, etc. I'm just wondering what the pros use... thanks.

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  17. Posted

    one of the best screws i used are from lowes. i think they are called phillips II. They have some special threaded bit that matches the threades inside the phillips screw. They are decking screws, and they are guaranteed never to strip, snap, or rust. I think they are a little more expensive than ordinary drywall screws, but i think it is worth the extra $. Hope that helps! B)

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  20. Posted

    fill up the area you want to measure with peanuts, then take them out and put them in a shipping box. You can get boxes and peanuts at Office Depot or the UPS store.

    ^^^ exactly. Try to get a box that is as close to 1 cubic foot as you can.

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  22. Posted

    Awesome work! :fing34:

    How much airspace do you figure you added fiberglassing the wheel well?

    thanks man! i don't remember the exact figure, but i think it was about 1.5ft^3 added. I measured the airspace using packing peanuts.

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  23. Posted

    thanks fellas, i appreciate the comments.

    damn dude...that is really stuffed in there. Nice!

    it is super stuffed in there! :woot: like i said, it was a tight squeeze trying to get enough airspace for those 15's...

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  24. Posted · Edited by dmz2711

    I am absoluetly delighted to run these BTL's. FI has some of the best customer support in the industry, and I will represent them to the fullest. Scott, Shawn, and Nick answered all my questions, and I thank you guys so much. Now to my box build pics..

    Before FI...

    speakerscolor.jpg

    The Box Build... I had to fiberglass the wheel well to get as much space as possible, my car is kinda small....

    CIMG2314.jpg

    CIMG2315.jpg

    CIMG2310.jpg

    CIMG2317.jpg

    CIMG2323.jpg

    CIMG2325.jpg

    CIMG2326.jpg

    CIMG2351.jpg

    CIMG2354.jpg

    CIMG2355.jpg

    CIMG2360.jpg

    CIMG2131.jpg

    CIMG2381.jpg

    After FI....

    CIMG2681.jpg

    I am still not done with this project. I plan on making some nice trim panels to cover the wiring. I just wanted to get some pics up. All I have to say is WOW, these things can really take some power, and kick it right back in your face! I recently got a ticket for "stereo over 25ft." I asked the cop how he knew it was me, he said "i could not really hear you, but i felt you." I just thought that was hilarious. :woot:

    Thanks FI!!! :thanx:

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  25. Posted

    1 sub

    Series: 2 ohms

    Parallel: 0.5 ohms

    2 subs

    series/series: 4 ohms

    series/parallel: 1 ohm

    parallel/parallel: 0.25 ohms

    Jeez, thanx. users like you make online info so much easier to obtain, as opposed to the previous comment. Thanx. Also, I will have one sub temporarily so to get the 2 ohm load, it's + on 1 side to - on the other, and then the other + and - straight to the terminal right?

    yes, to the terminal on the amp

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