Viperoni
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Posts posted by Viperoni
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FANTASTIC deal Mark.... man I wish I was in the market for an SPL sub
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As somebody who was young and made some mistakes, let me tell you this:
If you're going to listen to music 95% of the time, tune your system to work well for music.
I'd say 5.5-7cf tuned to 27-31hz.
If you're going to listen to movies 95% of the time, tune your system to work well for movies.
7-10cf tuned to 20-25hz.
TONS of port area on either setup; minimum 50 sqinches IMO.
Don't bother with giving a single MJ18 more than 500 watts RMS either, you won't get anymore SPL out of them.
Oh yeah, dont even THINK about using a car amp at home; you won't be able to afford the DC power supply you need to run them.
You will need a crossover as well, unless you're plugging your future amplifier into an existing receiver that has a sub output.
Finally, the Behringer EP amps are great units for what you want to do.
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Looks like an inch and a half of excursion at a couple points there... nice
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If you want it to hurt, the only way you're gonna do that for cheap is if you get a MJ18. But you won't be able to fit that into most cars.
Otherwise, a MAW15 in a big ported box (say 4cf) tuned to 35hz with at least 40sqin of port area should do it for you.
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Who needs an amp when you have the wall socket.A very reliable, and a very, VERY, plentiful source of power!
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I never "break in" any speakers, and I haven't had many die on me at all, and I've overpowered them quite a bit.
There's really not much you can heat cycle on a subwoofer anyhow.
Just crank it up and enjoy it.
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3.5-4cf sealed would do very nicely for music, but I think the 4.5 @ 30hz would also do well.I'd also increase the port area a bit, but unfortunately, 50sqin already needs a 27" long port...
Thanks for the replies. Just worked up another box with 61.5^2 of port area for 4.5cubes. Still considering sealed as I don't need killer bass since this is just a gym stereo in a 24x20 room with cement walls and floor, so ultimate SQ isn't the goal.
Ah, then you should be fine with that, I like the 61" of port area better. It should be able to pump out a lot of bass, you should be fine. The concrete should help as well.
Have fun with it
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3.5-4cf sealed would do very nicely for music, but I think the 4.5 @ 30hz would also do well.
I'd also increase the port area a bit, but unfortunately, 50sqin already needs a 27" long port...
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Judging from my model of the MAW12 in 1.4cf @ 33hz: http://img151.imageshack.us/my.php?image=m...cfat32hzov7.gif
I'd recommend going a bit bigger, say 1.6-2.0cf and tuning between 30-35hz, depending on what kind of bass you're looking for.
I'd also recommend sticking to AT LEAST the 25sqin of port area that we used in that smaller box, and preferably increasing on that as well.
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Got some finished pics of it!
It's speaker box carpeting with black paint on the end caps and copper on the port tubes, looks great I think!
Link:
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Lookin good, and I bet it gets the job done REALLY well
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Do the port's tuning medium come into play and output a tuned frequency of 38hz for this example?From what I understand, this is more or less what happens.
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Some have seen success with rear firing port (huge sewer pipe sized) one driver loading drivers side, the other driver front firing in a small box. There is something about the design that fights impedance rise.So one driver faces the drivers side (AKA the rear most drivers side window) while the other driver is front firing (IE: into the rear seats)??
Strange.... it this typical of wagon/SUV type vehicles?
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Oh wait I just remembered
We hit my friends 2x 4ohm MJ-18's with a Yorkville PA amp that pushed over 1200 watts RMS to each sub, but that was in a 1.8cf sealed box with fibreglass wall insulation for stuffing. They handled it very well.
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Actually power handling for one coil is NOT halved from the total; its something between 60-80% of the total power rating.
This is because when there are 2 VC's, each one loses half of it's heatsinking area because it's touching another coil.
Adire Audio had a paper about this.
In any case, count on a single coil on a MAW 12 to handle 200-250w, possibly even 300, and I know the driver can THERMALLY handle significantly more than it's rating of 350w, but I'm not going to make any claims as to long term powerhanlding abilities due to a lack of personal experience with one.
I was VERY impressed with my friends MAW12 off a 400w JL Audio e1400 in a 1.5cf box @ ~33hz.
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I would recommend going with 3cf, or even a bit more if you can.
I understand that you have up to 6cf total to use for the sub(s)?
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External port ftw. Math gets super easy that wayHaha true!
I finally got to listen to the sub, and honestly guys, I'm impressed! It's punchy enough, but still goes deep enough, and handles complicated basslines pretty well too.
Sneaker pimp's spin spin sugar bassline came through nice and cleanly, along with a couple other house tracks I listened too.
SPL capability was DEFINETELY there too, the ports really let the sub breathe and honestly, with a higher tuning, I could see this bad boy pulling off a pretty good number. Right now, 1.5cf @ ~33hz, 400 watts RMS, I can see it laying down a 135-138.
I can't wait to install my MTX 2150x amp (~400 watts RMS @ 4ohms), borrow the sub off my friend for a couple days and hear how it really goes off
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nice sub box....I like how you implemented those portsThanks, it was about the only way to work them in.
I still haven't heard the sub either, I've been so busy with work and such :-\
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Whatever an Earthquake Shredder PH-D3 puts out @ 2ohms to a pair of MJ18 4ohm versions, from a stock electrical system, 2 runs of 1/0g wire to a regular 650cca battery and 80a alternator.
After 20-30 minutes of hard pounding, I could smell the voice coils in the front of the wagon, but they kept on ticking like clockwork after HANDFULS of such (ab)use.
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Just an update, my friend has finished the build
Here's a LSPCad sim of the box, with the 2x 4" ports:
And heres a thread with pics of the sub box:
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Two subs inverted on a enclosure is not push pull.When one of the two is inverted then it's push pull.
I misunderstood the original statement, though it was poorly worded.
Isobaric is definetely an option, and would definetely help bring up SQ a LOT.
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correct me if I'm wrong and just up too late, but couldn't he mount the subs just as he's saying, but mount the subs on top inverted, then do an isobaric installation.idk, i would personally do the 1 sealed, but just figured it might work.
That wouldn't be an isobaric install though, it'd be a push-pull. Completely different than isobaric.
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See I just dont understand how anyone could say they want 2 18's and good SQ? IMO I find having one 15 too much low end. I almost have to turn it all the way down to get my desired equalization. Almost to the point where I ask myself why do I even need a 15? So I cant imagine how you could integrate 2 18's into any sort of true SQ setup.Yes mark I am getting old and rickety
.......LOLJust because they have "too much low end" doesn't mean they have poor SQ.
Ahhhh.... psychoacoustics.
Also, too much low end is NOT a problem the MJ18's have by any stretch. I thought they had too much midbass, but then again, my plastic car might have contributed to that, I don't know.
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2x 18" MJ's in 8cf sealed for both would do the LSQ job great!
You could port them if you want to, but if you have over 300 watts runing to each one, you probably won't need to lol.
Definetely stick to 2x, they'll do a great job.
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SPL-15 Pre-order - You're nuts if you don't go for it
in Subwoofers / Speakers
Posted
Haha
But damm, it does model decently well at 1.5cf @ 40hz.........