bugotti420

Alright guys, I thank you all for trying to help ... I've got it wired correctly now and it gets warm, more like regular temperature. And it's even louder and actually flexes things in the car. First thing I noticed was my right ear lol started tickling it. This one sub deFinetely blows those 2 Kicker CVR 15"s I had lmfao and it's only half power. I still got the coil rub though the scratchy rub noise at low volumes but I did expect that to stay. So I'm sure I'm going to need to recone it. I'm going to see how long it lasts this way before I can afford a recone. My question is, and I'm just going to throw it out there so I know before hand, can I recone it to a dual 1 ohm to reach full power?

Thanks man ... It is wired wrong then lol I'm a n000b ... I'll hook it up right when I get a chance and I'll update ya.

+ of coil 1 to negative of coil 2 + of coil 2 and negative of coil 1 to the amp, this is what you're saying correct? If so, then it is indeed hooked up wrong and I'm a fumbduck lol

Orlando - Franklin, Tx. About 2 hrs away or so lol. Nick - I will do that kimd sir soon as I get a chance unless we just figured it out, and I think we did lol and I feel like an idiot, it's just how I understood the diagram. Let me simplify it how I've got it real quick once more. Coil one's positive and negative runs to + & - of the amp. Coil 2 is hooked up to coil 2's + & - right beside each other. And that's incorrect?

I don't get it. How could it be out of phase? lol I want to understand. One set of terminals, the positive wire is on the left, and runs to the amp. The negative is on the right, and runs to the amp. The other set of terminals there's a little , "U" shaped wire to jump the Positive and negative off. Like I said though It took the 30hz test tone perfect-o for 45 minutes in free air motion and only got a tad bit warm, not much at all really, and had no noise. The problem all started when it seen the box for the first time, almost instantly within 5 minutes of play. Baam, rub noise. Coil starts getting brownish/blackish. I did push in on my speaker, around the dustcap and the sound quieted down somewhat but I realized I was damn near keeping the sub to move at that point. The sub just cannot play music at low volumes, without making the ugly rub noise. Almost as if, and I dont think at all - that it plays any bass during this period. Just the rub noise. But when I crank the volume up past 30 of 62, it starts to move the sub and warm it up and magically the rub noise stops and produces wonderful bass, but gets hot. It's driving me nuts lol

Well I might take that into consideration. I think I've got it all figured out other than is to why it's getting so damn hot and it's got coilrub already. It's hooked up correctly, just like Nick's picture. The only thing missing is a subsonic filter ... I'm gonna have to try and take a video of it. I can't capture the temperature of it though so you'll just have to take my word for it lol

Well I pulled it out. Checked everything and free aired it. It still makes the noise and gets hot out of the box. It didn't do this when I freeaired it when I got it before it ever seen a box The wires are in the correct terminals. I looked at the flatwound coil, they are starting to get brown/black. The wires are in right spots in amp unless amp lies to me and I've never had probs with a sub on this amp before so surely not. I don't understand why it's cooking like this. Other than not having a Subsonic filter and it caused something to fail within 5 mins of play. If the mechanical part failed, will a recone not fix it? Yes I did feel shitty when friend said it was my sub and I still feel shitty because it's dying on Me and it hasn't even played an hours worth of music inside the box. It's funny when it's cool it make the scratch rub sound, but when hot it doesnt make the sound. And when it stops making sound it sounds AWESOME but i cant let it keep going because at the same time it's getting discomfortably hot to the touch. I don't get it, almost just wanting to throw car audio down the drain .... Nah I love it too much but dang what gives?!?

Gotch'a ... I'll look at that once more. As far as I can remember though the positive was on the left but I'll double check. Option 2 sir. I keep asking about the subsonic filter, it wouldn't cause it to overheat without because of over excurging?

Will give that a try ... I did notice before mounting it into the box that the surround covered the screwholes about halfway and I didn't like the way that looked ... like it was glued stretched too far.

Weird ... I've got the bassboost on the amp all the way off set to 0. The gain is about half way. I'm about to go check out all the settings on the radio. But my 1 Kicker CVR 15 I had, played for 3 years hard with it's brother who died before this one was wired the same way as your picture as well and I haven't touched the radio settings since then. It actually lasted about 3 weeks before dying on me and never getting hot or for that matter warm. What happened to it was the cheap thin spider on it ripped. It was in a sealed box though. You don't think not having a subsonic filter has got anything to do with the Fi going nuts? Something is deFinitely wrong like you said lol. There's no way in hell the CVR should outlast this Fi ... If the Fi is getting hot the CVR shoulda caught on fire if you catch my drift lol. And because of all this I'm afraid I'm going to need a recone because of the scratchyness in it now after all this has happened.

That is actually how I have it wired, like I said I don't really know what I'm talking about lol, but I do have it wired exactly like that picture shows. At the time of purchasing the sub I wasn't thinking. I was planning on getting two of them so I knew I needed dual 2 ohm to be correct with my amp, but I have to purchase one at a time so I went with the dual 2 ohm, so I'd already have one ready. Then once I got it I realized oh hell it's not going to work with my amp like I was expecting because I wasn't thinking that so I wired it like you have it in the pic. So if I have it wired like your picture, is it still out of phase? If not, what's the problem with it now? @ricksi30 it's a DVC 2

I ordered my Fi SSD 15" on the 16th of Aug. Think the payment didn't go thru till the 18th. And just last night got notification that it's shipped out. Maybe I got lucky, they said 30 day lead build time and it's already being shipped. Best part of it all is yesterday was my bday and I caught word it was coming. So stoked hope you get your sub soon!

Thanks to everyone for the help. I've done had to tell others how badass the support was here lol not used to it. Thanks!!! "I'll be back!"

Hello all, first off let me say I am new to this forum, and hope to enjoy my visit here. I just recently bought a Fi SSD 15" sub, on the 16th or 17th and I realize it is probably going to take forever (or what feels like it ) to receive it, and the wait is already getting to me as I used to have Kicker CVR's and they died and so currently I have no bass! Ahh killing me hehe, so therefore I decided to take a bigger step up in the world of bass. My question is, I am in no way, any good at enclosure building, I mean I could put together a sealed box but who can't? I need a ported enclosure, and while I understand what tuning is, I have no idea mathematically how to figure out what to cut certain peices. It's all jibberish, when it comes to making the enclosure. Well after purchasing I noticed that there's a thread here with a cut sheet for 1 Fi SSD 15 and I thought to myself, "Sccchweeet!!!". I gave it a look and checked out it's length and width and seen that it is 38 1/4 wide, side-to-side. I instantly stopped what I was doing and ran out to my car (Which is an '06 Saturn Vue Redline) with a tape measurer and measured to see if 38 1/4" would indeed work. Come to find out I only got 38" exact between each fender wells that stick up in the floor. Dang. From my basic knowledge this will effect the enclosure design tuning of 32 hz, correct? All other dimensions of this said cut sheet will work, just not the 38 1/4" wide peice. My question is can someone help me figure out how to resize it to 38" wide and leave other dimensions alone? Or if it does chang it's tuning how bad will it affect it? I am dying already waiting for the sub lol and I am trying to do things in the meantime to keep me occupied, and I don't have a box for it anyway. I've got a little itty bitty single sealed box, and my sub is going to have a flatwound coil and from what I read that is not recommended to use in a sealed box, so I really don't want to stick it in that box. Besides it's too small, and I've always wanted a port. Thanks in advance, Bassheads Unite? Righht????

Ok cool sounds easy enough, any special type of glue or just carpenters wood glue?

^^This and ^^This Was looking forward to grabbing the 1920x1080p one!

Thanks for the advice Audiogasm. Also for anyone else to answer, I tried searching the forum, "how to make a double baffle" but I keep getting this error message, "One or all of your search keywords were below 2 characters or you searched for words which are not allowed, such as 'html', 'img', etc, please increase the length of these search keywords or choose different keywords." Anyway when I build this box I want to do a double baffle on the front piece, and to do that I was wondering how you people do it? Do you use some type of glue in between the two boards? And what kind? Or is it just a simple screw it down on top of the other board? If you just screwed it I would think there'd be a vibration wood-clapping noise as the sub pounds. I've searched Youtube and tried searching here but only getting an error. Thanks guys, this should be my last question. Want it done right

Hell no! Won't be no leaks allowed in this box! I'll seal it to hell and back if I have to! bahaahah!

We're only human bro, we all make mistakes! Get your homework done man good luck on that

nope, if you want to know the first two i miscalculated port volume, first one i forgot to take sub dislplacement as well, then i corrected all that Ok man thanks a ton dude! This has been worrying me, and I delayed on posting because I felt like a noob! But couldn't handle it no more and had to ask haha Really love the support I've gotten here in my short period of being here, you guys are the best! hehe thanks again man and when it comes down to building the box and putting the sub in I'll try to update you guys on how well it went, and it's definately going on youtube!

Ok so tuning wont be changed at all by 1/4" shaved off? 34 ... 35, back to 32hz now haha got me confused bro but I think I get what you're saying

Oh you edited post before I could reply haha, thanks for the recalculations. I love you man! haha

Ok that sounds great. I was actually thinking of tuning to 35 hz to begin with, but I seen 32hz and that sounded sexier. I love LOWS. It gets me off lmfao. You're absolutely positive it will be 34hz tuned by shaving 1/4" off width? That's not a bad dis-improvement, figured it would be much worse. I'm still down for a cutsheet image as seen in the link to have it tuned to 32 hz if anyone in there generous spare time feels like creating one, but as said I understand if it's too much trouble, if anything at all I will start off using the cutsheet diagram if there's no response to a cutsheet image by time I get the MDF plywood. (Who knows when that will be, I am sure I got nearly a month still for my sub to arrive anyway) so I got time to spare. Thanks for your quick reply.

All other dimensions will fit. My problem is, as I stated before ports confuse me ... I'm not sure where to place it? If this could be made into an image cutsheet, much like the one showed at: , That would work ... Those images show exactly what it will look like inside and where the port wall will be at by the sub. I need a cutsheet for dummies lmao. Sorry if that's asking too much, it's just easier on me (harder on you) and still what you showed me is confusing. When it comes to enclosures I am lost. Terribly lost. And I showed my dad, who is a carpenter and he doesn't even understand it. Only being because he doesn't build sub box's as carpenter work and it's jibberish to him. He builds houses not sub box's haha, I figured if anyone he'd know but He doesn't understand the whole port thing either, or the basics of one. He thinks just throw some boards together and it'll work lol. If it was simplified and he understood he would make one hell of a box. I had even showed him the image of the cutsheets in above said link and he said that's easy as cake. But sadly it wont fit If I used the dimensions shown for the SSD 15 in the cutsheet list, and I shaved off the 38 1/4" wide part to read 38" and kept the rest of demensions, how bad will it through the port tuning off? I'm sorry guys, At this point I feel hopeless ... I'm not really big into car audio, I mean I am, I love to bang some music it's my fix if I need to get away from troubles and to clear my mind, and I can set anything else up. other than a box. Is there anyway I could get a cutsheet image that's much like in above said link? If I have to I will pay for some help I am so desperate lol I need it simplified to simplest form; cutsheet for dummies. lol Thanks man... If not I guess all I can do is try and see if I can figure it out and tell my dad what to do, but don't have the funds for a screw up, I was lucky enough to afford the 15" SSD! But my birthday is coming up soon so I splurged and said screw it! Got me a decent sub on the way non-the-less. I appreciate all the help man I really do and understand if this is asking too much.