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SKEEMASK

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Posts posted by SKEEMASK

  5. Posted

    trying to make a couple buss bars for a battery rack and wanted some ideas on what kind of material to use. I stay not too far from a home improvement store and was looking to buy a few flat metal bars. In no way shape or form am I giving my first born for copper lol. I wanted to know would aluminum get too hot? They'll be about 30-36" long x 2" wide x 1/8" thick and I will have about 600amps of current going through them. Or should I use plain steel or steel with zinc plating?

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  8. Posted · Edited by SKEEMASK

    Ive used glass and even bedliner on the outside before but it was mearly cosmetic and sealant purposes. But just using dynomat isnt going to benefit u. I think u mean dynomat spray. I have heard that spraying the inside helps but I dont know how true it is. Glassing the inside smoothens air transfer and adds strength

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  10. Posted · Edited by SKEEMASK

    if u have a regular internal port that needs to be say for example 20" long to get a 30hz fq.....would it still need the same 20" length if it was external to get the same 30Hz tuning? I know internal volume would be more considering less displacement

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  15. Posted

    yea I see. Ive been getting some attention from Atomic wanting me to run their subs but IDK. Ive been noticing u guys doing ya thing here in the last few yrs. Im looking more @ ur stuff now that Ive seen the Blazer setups. very impressive with just a 3K (not that 3K isnt alot of watts)

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  16. Posted

    Im basically looking for something with decent cone area and that can handle my Atomic. Im taking the back seats out my T-bird and building something that will go in place of the back seat. It will be level with the rear deck and extend out to about 4-6" from the headrests and from seat belt to seat belt. If I went with 3-15s.....it would have to be subs up port forward. If I went with something like 4 or 5-12s....I can do subs up and port up. Strictly music.....I wanna be able to listen to my music very loud, with pretty reasonalbe sq and still hit the lanes if I wanted too (basically a Ground Pound). Just to let u know Im not a noob to the audio scene...Im just basically soaking up as much info on these particular subs as possible

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  19. Posted · Edited by SKEEMASK

    15s Im comparing the two drivers cause Im looking to do a 3-15 setup in the near future off my Atomic 5K. I can do 3 dual1ohm subs and run the amp just under 0.7ohm around 0.67....yes I know imp will be higher. Im designing a enclosure that comes up to 240sq" of port tuned to 31Hz and 14.1ft3 after bracing and port/sub displacements. Thats about 4.7ft3 and 80sq" of port per 15

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  22. Posted

    i want to run (once the saz 3500) a 3500.

    i was wondering what electrical i would need to do.

    obviously the big 3 but what kinda alternator and batteries would i need?

    (also will have a saz100.4 for the doors)

    im going to be running the same amps as you. i have a 250 amp mechman alt, one D1200 as the starter since it was the biggest i can fit under my hood, and i have a D3100 as the second battery. if you can fit the D3100 as the main use it, but if you cant get the biggest powermaster XS you can fit under the hood and use the D3100 as the second

    that right there should be pretty decent for that amp. If XS battereies are a lil too rich for u then Id go with a medium sized deka under the hood and 2-larger Dekas in the rear

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  24. Posted

    I went with the Mach5 MLI-65 for midbass, the Dayton RS-120 4" midrange and some Kenwood tweets. That Mach5 is a beast. Its rated @ 100rms but if its gonna be used as a dedicaded midbass from 80hz up then u can give it well over 100watts. I tried the Dayton out before and it was seriously loud in many different directions u angle. Its rated @ 30 watts but it has a low sensitivity rating so Ull want to run about 50-80rms to it. But that again can achieved depending on what its used for. when u read reviews u gotta look at what they were trying to do with it. I saw a review on that particular 4" 1 time before that wasnt so nice. But the thing about it was the guy was trying to use it as a mid bass and not a midrange. He was pumping midbass freqs into it and expecting it to perform. If its used in what it was intended for then u cant beat it for $24 bucks.

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