Welterc50
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Posts posted by Welterc50
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I was referring to 6th for the gain question
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My understanding was 4th orders sealed side prevented driver from unloading unlike 6th where having both chambers ported could leave the driver vulnerable. I mean if your lower -3 db is at 30 hz and the upper is 70 if the driver goes lower than 30 hz it risks entering an infinite baffle like state relying on the suspension of driver. Is this correct or is it subjective to series enclosure design ect? Also I found a website that talks about the content of the loudspeaker design cookbook and it says gains over 3 db can be hazardous to the drivers, so in regards to tuning to gain what would you determine your limit as to how much?
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That's what concerned me about a 6th, unloading the driver with too low a frequency. I like decaf ' s music with the lows but with a 6th that's dangerous..
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Boy good thing I didn't build that box.. it would've been a one note wonder that sounded like crap. I've been playing with the bandpass.xls spreadsheet (until my book comes in) with the driver parameters and managed to keep the gain under 2.55db and response from 30 hz to 76 hz (both -3 db cutoff). I'm almost contemplating 6th order after seeing how this spreadsheet graphs it all out.
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Any places you'd reccomend to figure this stuff out? This is my 2nd 4th order and first ever wall.. no I'm not an advanced box builder, but I am appreciative of any help given. I don't live by any big builders or have anyone to learn from in person so I try to find out everything on my own or in person, just sucks when you always see conflicting things on the web. Anyways I'll be heading back to the drawing board to get this right.
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Sold with the truck.. working on a jeep.. I guess I just got bored with ported boxes and wanted to push myself to learn something new (thinking that is a crime on here now). The zcon build was good but not what I wanted.
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Drivers are 15" crossfire xsv2s. How would you change it?
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Here is the basic idea... its a 2x4 shell with birch interior.. something like 3:1 ratio or close to it and 1.6 cubes sealed for each 15.. concern is that the height is too short, do you think 3 layers of birch is strong enough, or should I work this and try to fit them all in?0 -
OK,
So I recently aquired a 1996 jeep grand cherokee and am in the planning phase of the project. I am looking at running a 3:1 ratio 4th order with either 4 15" or 18" drivers. The issue I am running into is that I am concerned that the box height will end up too low to mount the drivers on a flat baffle. With this being said I was wondering if anyone has toyed around with angled baffles. With this setup I was going to do a driver's side port and tune around 45-50hz. Would this be too much of a hassle and prove to be a nightmare, or should I try to use a more upward firing baffle to fit the 4 drivers (similar to watt's truck but larger and drivers stacked in a 2x2 config instead of 1x4). By my figures I should have roughly 27 cubes to play with as far as interior box volume. If anyone has any ideas im all ears (i like getting loud but like lows also). Planned power is in the 15-18k range, and since my last build ran 12k and only touched 54s, id like to get as close to 60s as I can. Not really new to box building, just having "writers block".
Thanks,
Chris
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Wow beautiful!
I knew you'd like it..
Now that this build is sold, time to start on the TAHOE build!!
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If my clipping light is going off does that mean my amp is definitely clipping then? Since its producing DC voltage i cant hear? But the clipping light is worthless because the amp can be clipping even when the light isnt going off?
Or is it that the clipping light usually goes off before the amp clips?
And Welter, your saying you believe I can run 2200 watts off just a second battery without buying the 190a alt?
In the engineering world its something called TOLERANCE.. Most everything has a tolerance it is built to, and the clipping light on your amplifier is NO exception. Some engineer somewhere had to decide what level of distortion that little light turns on at (music can have some naturally). And since that does not monitor the output at the speaker terminals, IMO that is not the same at all. If you would like you can do the old BOSE test as I call it (bose used to do this with their speakers) and wire a 12V DOME light in series to your subwoofer. Traditional AC current (un-clipped signal) will pass through the bulb without lighting it, however DC current (clipped signal) will light the bulb,and the bulb will eliminate the DC voltage from the system. If you really must know whether or not that pointless little LED is worth a damn, do this and see which lights first. More often than not the lightbulb has less TOLERANCE for clipping than that LED does (cleaner signal). Also, I am not saying you can run 2200 watts off just the 2nd battery ALL DAY. But, if you only have the cash for one or the other, when that amplifier pulls 200+AMPS and overruns your alt at full blast, your voltage wont PLUMMET as fast it can. And the 2nd battery will maintain a better voltage for longer, however it will take longer to re-charge with the smaller alt. For daily use the 2nd battery is better because you usually need a quick burst of power and cannot afford to wait for your ECU to react and crank up the alt's regulator, because by then your already on that battery power and your alt is overrun anyways.
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Very nice but whats the size of your enclosure?
I believe the enclosure is 8 cubes sealed, 16 cubes ported. Those are rough numbers, because right now un-tuned I am looking at a 1.8 to 1.9:1 4th order. There is too much port area, so I am in the process of getting a loading wall installed to narrow the bandwith. Once the new port is installed, it consumes some of the current port as box area, so it jumps to around 2.1:1 ratio. I am going to update this soon as more work is done to the system, and I will be clamping subs/ graphing response curves. Now I know everyone is gonna say that is a small sealed space for those zcons, but they work suprising well in there. And at a 154.2 sealed at 46hz untuned, IMO thats pretty good (better than I expected). The best part is the day we installed the amp we took it down to a show. Once there, I demoed it at FULL VOLUME for close to 30 minutes immediately before entering the lanes and got the EXACT same score I achieved earlier that day with the amp install..
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Alright guys, I finally got my build up and running (its in the build log section if you need to see it) and I am asking myself if I need more power.
Currently I am running an AB1100.1, and during testing had it wired up but scored a 150.2. After wiring it down for peak power from the amp it scored a 154.2. Te reason I ask this is because these subs seem to be laughing at that amp.. I mean I know they are underrated at 2250 RMS but they literally only move 3/4 of an inch at most (20-30hz) and get stupid loud in that box. I am looking to add more batteries, maybe another alt, and maybe gonna add another AB1100.1. I am just worried that the 3" coil wont be able to handle it at full power.. Anybody have any ideas on what they think they could take (I only give clean power), or know of anyone who has had these up around that power level?
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Ok, so I've never put a build log on here so please bear with me if I mess this up.
This started as me wanting to get louder and ended up like nothing I could have imagined.
Its a 2006 Chevy Silverado EXT cab 71 pickup with the 5.3L.
Equipment installed is:
2 Singer 350A Alternators (stock running as master)
MLA ModuleAmerican Bass 1100.1
5 C&D Batts
1 XS Power up front2 sets Boston Pro 60SE Components (Running as coaxial)
Boston 2 channel
6 SSA Zcon 15s (4th order enclosure)Some tire/suspension mods to hide the almost 2000lbs of equipment.
First the walkaround
now into the build pics: (I didnt take very many)
^^^^Crossovers in place of factory bose amp
^^^^Light Test of Million color LEDs
^^^More Color Test
^^Starting to work on the back
^^^Ready for fuses
^^Underhood complete
^^^ Port into cab done.. It needs tuned yet but it hit 154.2 sealed on the TL at 46hz (too high for my blood, gonna put in a loading wall and drop it down. Shooting for 35-40hz peak)
More to come!!
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The power class is based on what RMS the amplifiers are producing correct? (Not on a 4 ohm load, but build specific?)
If I have a blow through but the stripper pole is behind the center console is that counted?0 -
Having a secondary battery adds reserve and delivers large amounts of current upon demand. I would never advise blasting your gear without the engine running for daily use. As for clipping lights, the ear is a much better device to detect clipping in your subs IMO.
I would go with the extra battery to be honest.. And I totally agree with brutalbasser when it comes to running the engine.. HOWEVER I do not reccomend using your ears to detect clipping.. Just because you cant hear it does not mean its not there.. I am not saying the light is worth a damn either but it looks for DC voltage, something you most likely wont hear if the light is barely coming on, especially with music.. I suggest using a DD1 and setting your gains and forgetting that bass knob.. Get yourself a RCA control knob and turn it all the way up, then set your gains. Then you can adjust accordingly.. Leaving a gain knob all the way up is a dangerous thing for an amp especially if you have a good amount of preout voltage..
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Having a secondary battery adds reserve and delivers large amounts of current upon demand. I would never advise blasting your gear without the engine running for daily use. As for clipping lights, the ear is a much better device to detect clipping in your subs IMO.
I would go with the extra battery to be honest.. And I totally agree with brutalbasser when it comes to running the engine.. HOWEVER I do not reccomend using your ears to detect clipping.. Just because you cant hear it does not mean its not there.. I am not saying the light is worth a damn either but it looks for DC voltage, something you most likely wont hear if the light is barely coming on, especially with music.. I suggest using a DD1 and setting your gains and forgetting that bass knob.. Get yourself a RCA control knob and turn it all the way up, then set your gains. Then you can adjust accordingly.. Leaving a gain knob all the way up is a dangerous thing for an amp especially if you have a good amount of preout voltage..
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Having a secondary battery adds reserve and delivers large amounts of current upon demand. I would never advise blasting your gear without the engine running for daily use. As for clipping lights, the ear is a much better device to detect clipping in your subs IMO.
I would go with the extra battery to be honest.. And I totally agree with brutalbasser when it comes to running the engine.. HOWEVER I do not reccomend using your ears to detect clipping.. Just because you cant hear it does not mean its not there.. I am not saying the light is worth a damn either but it looks for DC voltage, something you most likely wont hear if the light is barely coming on, especially with music.. I suggest using a DD1 and setting your gains and forgetting that bass knob.. Get yourself a RCA control knob and turn it all the way up, then set your gains. Then you can adjust accordingly.. Leaving a gain knob all the way up is a dangerous thing for an amp especially if you have a good amount of preout voltage..
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Wasn't Psychlone eliminated?
It might be, but I want the build to be that style.. Basically I liked the concept and wanted to make my daily truck fit the categories.
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Ok, let me ask a different question..
What advice of things to avoid can you guys give me when building box as stated above?
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I have a question for anyone on here that has experience with 6th order enclosures or blow-through boxes. I have finally gathered everything I needed for my build in my silverado (standard box). The part that has been bothering me is that the build that I originally based my idea on was Jack Chisam's Sleeper. The basic design was a series ported 6th order with the front chamber untuned and the back tuned around 30hz. it is a 3:1 ratio 6th order. The woofers I chose were the Zcons (6) and I am running them from a American Bass 1100.1 (maybe 2 in the future). The amp and batteries are in the very back of the bed on the back side of the box.
So, with all this being said here are my concerns...
Will the larger cab space of the extended cab (not crew) effect the resonant frequency of the Truck? If yes how so?
Jack (single cab) was doing like 150 on music at around 25hz (I was hoping to be closer to 154, a little higher is fine) how would you suggest changing the enclosure?
I was hoping to run the truck in Psychlone since the build is stealth and meets all the bonus point requirements.
Any input you may have is greatly appreciated!
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Welcome, its good to see another person from the iowa area here on SSA!
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From the looks of it I would say that would be a double din kit.. Plus it's a 2011 cruze, a single din would take away from the car, a double din would seem more like something that should be in the car.. I would not recommend and sort of line converter for a system, even though they do work they always end up being more of a headache than they are worth.. Good luck though!
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I will stay tuned!
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4th order jeep wall
in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
Posted
OK, after a bunch of reading and trial and error this is what I've come up with...
I think I want to try the 6th (similar to yuey's layout)..
Specs....
4-15" crossfire xsv2s (Dual 1 ohm)
2 crossfire 8ks
11 cube rear chamber tuned to 30 hz (going to end up 2-5.5 cube chambers) via 4- 5.5" aeros at 21.82" long
17 cube front chamber tuned to 58 hz with a single 30.5" by 13" rectangular port 2.16" long (router might fix 3 layer front to correct port depth)
Looks a bit peaky..lol.. I also tried reversing the box sizes (larger rear and smaller front) and got this.. (red is SBB4 @ 14cube tuned to 32hz for same subs for comparison).. I feel like im doing something wrong still, the larger rear box and smaller front box get a better response IMO..
