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greenflames10

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Posts posted by greenflames10

  1. Posted

    Head units: Alpine, Pioneer, Eclipse CDx000 series

    Amps: Kicker ZX (rock f*ckin solid amps), eclipse, hifonics, us amps, JL slash series, polk audio, MTX Thunder Elite, PPI

    Speakers: DIY (dayton, audax, tang band...), Polk audio (except the DB series), MB Quart, Focal, Infinity Kappa/Perfects, Rainbow audio, Image Dynamics, Diamond Audio

    Subs: RE, FI, RF T series, Kicker, Alpine type R and X, Ascendant audio, JL W6

    Wiring: Tsunami

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  2. Posted

    Vehicle: Lowered 1998 Chevy S-10 regular cab

    Head Unit: Pioneer Premier deh-p580mp

    Amps: Kicker ZX750.1 and Kicker ZX250.2

    Front Stage: Polk Audio MMC6500 components

    Sub Stage: 2 10" Kicker CVR, sealed

    Wiring: Tsunami Elite/Competition series

    Deadening: FatMat

    Electrical: Big 3 upgraded with 4 gauge

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  5. Posted · Edited by greenflames10

    i have to disagree with you my friend.

    some cars comes with already good amount dampening material already installed some doesn't come with not eve at least a decent amount of dampening material. and if your going with a small system and your car comes with a decent amount of dampening material you really dont need more since the beginner set up will never make your doors or roof really rattle. and even your doors speakers with the factory dampening material will never pick up unwanted peaks or door resonances.

    when your car is not equipped with dampening material or it comes with cheap like some ford vehicles just come with a really slim layer of plastic you do really need dampening material...

    when i put the parenthesis i had this in mind. if you want u can take alook again or i will psot it again.. "(when needed)"

    Sound deadening lowers road noise and creates a relatively acoustically dead environment. It's crucial for a great sounding system. I haven't come across a car yet with good enough factory sound deadening.

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  11. Posted

    you would get different frequency responses from the different boxes, and you would run into cancellation from the different sized drivers.

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  12. Posted · Edited by greenflames10

    Ahh, capacitors...

    Unless you have a 40 farad powerbank, or unless you want to buffer voltage spikes in an SQ vehicle, the capacitor isn't gonna do much of anything but add some resistance to the system and MAYBE help out some small regulator lag, at best. A 1 farad capacitor will be depleted by a 500 watt amp in less than a second, and a lot of the power they hold isn't usable.

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  13. Posted

    A VW Beetle would be very, very hard to beat for pure staging potential...not sure if it meets your "decently quick" criteria, but it'd probably be faster than your S-10 stock :)

    Oh i know this firsthand... I got my ass handed to me by a turbo beetle, i'm not even gonna pretend like it didn't happen.

    Somebody told me an older CRX is very good for staging also...which leads me to believe that hatchback compacts are the way to go. I'll be on the lookout. What about something like a 4th gen camaro/firebird? How would the angle of the back glass affect the bass response/imaging? Thanks for the help.

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  14. Posted · Edited by greenflames10

    ...and one of the main deciding factors was that it has to have a lot of potential for a very good sound stage. Probably something that a lot of you have thought about.

    What would it be? SUV? Hatchback car? Small? Big? Medium? Oh and it has to be decently quick and cool looking, manual, and around $5.5K used.

    Since my truck is so unreliable, I'm throwing in the towel and buying something else. Plus everyone who has a standard cab S-10 knows exactly how hard it is to get good sound going in it. I'm planning on doing barely anything on the outside save for some window tint, and doing a very clean, very stealthy install. No bling, no flair. No fancy speaker grilles or bright neons/LED's. A completely "sleeper" system that sounds really good.

    Plans:

    Front stage:

    Either some eclipse components, DIY Dayton/ Audax 2-way upgradable to active 3-way later on down the line, or the Polk SR components

    Rear fill:

    Whatever coaxials match for the back, for fill purposes only. If oval speakers are anywhere in the car, i'm adapting round drivers to fit.

    Source:

    Eclipse CD4000 or my current pioneer premier 580mp

    Amplification:

    Eclipse XD4000 4 channel and XD1000 mono or polk 500.1 and 400.4 (any input on the 500.1 would be great, word on the street is that they're comparable to the JL 500/1)

    Subwoofer(s):

    Polk SR 10" ported in ~2 cubes tuned to 32Hz.

    Deadening:

    Sound deadening out the ass.

    Wiring:

    Big 3 upgrade if needed. Tsunami wiring, whatever gauge I deem necessary.

    Any input on this is appreciated.

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  15. Posted · Edited by greenflames10

    I found this site through DevilDriver on S10Forum. I'm pretty active over there, especially in the car audio/security section of the forum. I know a good deal about what's going on in the audio world. I also work at circuit city installing in the roadshop. (Keep in mind that I didn't say "i'm the best installer in the world because I work in CC's roadshop". I know that Kicker isn't be-all-end-all of car audio...heh. I know what T/S parameters mean and how they work, I know how to properly build and tune a ported box, and I know how to set up a good soundstage. I am also an electrical engineering student at Rowan University.)

    I just wanted to join an audio forum free of all the complete morons who think that because they did one "install" that they know everything (cough *sounddomain* cough) and this seemed like just the place.

    I love music, I have been involved with it since I was 6 years old, and I think that there's nothing better than listening to music that you love on a great sounding audio system.

    So, yo.

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