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Posts posted by lakaiguy
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Just remember, the RMS power has nothing to do with how loud the sub is, how much power it needs or anything else output related, at all...
sorry can anyone elaborate on this for me, I think I might learn something :-)
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The factory Bluetooth in my 2014 Accord sounds pretty good
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there was a little popping and cracking that appeared to be happening below the subs xmax but close to the rms power
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allllright
i've been reading that having the line output converter gains all the way up can introduce distortion
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I have a tc-loc2 hooked up to a hifonics brx1100.d running at 2 ohms to a re sex v2 12" in a 2 cu ft 32hz box. The amp is rated at 800 rms at 2 ohms and and the sub is rated at 750 rms.
I have the gains on the LOC all the way up and the gains on the amp at about 6/8ths, now that is partly because I set the gains with the remote at 50%.
Anyways is it alright if the amp gains are maxed out because if I turn the loc gains down I will probably have to.
thanks
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its in the for sale section
mods please leave this up, i really need to sell
thanks
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i have a brand new US Amps MD.1D Merlin 2 Series, pretty perfect for your setup actually
1050 watts RMS at 1 ohm
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i have a md.1d for sale
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I know the PG Tantrum 1200.1 I have spews out a lot of EMI, most noticeably around 50MHz. But it's only very apparent in SSB or AM...with the capture effect of FM, it's never actually strong enough to cause breakthrough on broadcast stations (or even in the FM mode on the band where the interference is the most).in english please
the really strong stations come in fine and you cant really tell, but the weaker stations get really fuzzy
but when i disconnect the fuse for the amp while the radio is on the reception improves ALOT
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Is there a fix for this?
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soooooo you're saying they power ratings are overrated for the everyday user?
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Aren't you already using crossovers, at least passives?All the passives I've seen have been well above the midrange...
nope just the HU xovers
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ok i'm a dumby
i found the "bass blockers" on crutchfield
they have 1.2 kHz, 2.8 kHz and 5.6k Hz
I'm pretty sure the 1.2 kHz is too low
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my tweeters are tyring to pump out way to many vocals
whats the easiest way to cut some lower frequencies?
I'm hoping its as easy as putting some capacitors inline with the tweeter
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You'll only see peak voltage if the volume is most of the way up on most decks.I'd still love for the OP to clarify.
I was actually referring to what the other guy was saying about testing the HU voltage.
TIA
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RCA's have no voltage.If they're hooked up to a line driver or head unit, then they carry voltage.
And yes, you can.
ok well I was just wondering if there was a way to test them other than just plugging them in
How would you test them using a DMM?
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can you test voltage of RCAs with a DMM?
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there Cute lil Toys next to the SS XxXi have em wired to 2ohm for the set and the amps are seeing 1ohm ea.
do you need them ???
haha my car can barely handle the 2 12" SEs
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only two i have extensive and very positive knowledge of
JL 10w1v2
Infinity 1030W
both were fenominal
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my actual box volume is like .94 cu ft gross
and the subs recommended volume is 1 cu ft net
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theres proof of the PG
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theres some bench test results somewhere on the PG forum and I forget the results but I remember everyone saying how good the amp was and how underrated it was.
and from my experience over the last year I definetly agree
I have it pushing 2 12" RE SEs in a smalled sealed box and it hardly ever gets even slighlty warm
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what are you doing with REs?
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RE SR
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LOC gain question
in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Posted
Haha maybe if this forum saw more traffic, you guys are funny