Miles

Ive only seen this once before, and it was in a firebird with 4 12's under the window. Subs forward port back. Fella that went by the name AQFirebird. Competed in MWSPL years ago.

50 cuts later aaaaaaaaand, we've got a port.

It's been a few years since I've done this. Just making sure I get my spacing right to have a 180° kerf (90° is for amateurs). Will have to spray the back with water to make it more pliable and less prone to breakage, but my radius should be good with 1/4" cuts.

Grainger. Product# 3BY23. We used these on big electric forklifts for charging. Thought it'd be a good idea for quick (and safe) removal when needing more space in the Jeep. No need to wrap wires or remove fuses.

Here's the current setup (NVX VCW 12) with the amp I'll be recycling for the new sub/box. Also did a quick connection so when we need more space I can remove the entire setup in about 3 seconds.

Well, It's been a while since I've been on here. Graduated college and disappeared from the scene to start a career, which lead me to 3 states in 3 years. Finally got a vehicle I've always wanted: an SUV! Picked up an Alpine MRX-M100 on Craigslist for $50, and just bought a new Fi Alpha v2 15 yesterday (hopefully that comes in before the new year). Definitely won't be as heavily involved in the SPL scene as I was years ago, but I think I might just make something to have some fun with at a couple of competitions next summer. Here is my plan so far, and I would like input/feedback for anyone that has worked with a Renegade before: 800-900 wrms realistically 15" Fi sub Box: thinking 4.5-5 cubes net tuned at 36-38 hz but I can't decide on a couple of 6" octaports, a single 9-10" octaport, or a 60 sq in slot port along the bottom (the sides would be kerfed making it a kind of oval if that makes sense). All of these would be sub up/port back. If I can break a 145, I'd be satisfied. If I could get close to or break a 50, I'd be more than pleased. Let me know what you guys think of box design/orientation for an SUV to maximize my efficiency. And if y'all remember me, don't be afraid to throw out crazy ideas. I've done some crazy things with boxes. Anyway, here's the current setup that I threw together last weekend to get the ball rolling (another craigslist deal on the sub). 2.0 net tuned to 35 with a 4" aero. (Doing a 41-42 on the ear-o-meter sealed) Thanks!

The Fi should be here Tuesday! Once I build the box (when I actually decide on a final design) I'll put everything in the Build Log section.

Alright, I think I have a plan and it's nothing I said in the last post. I got to thinking about this (too much), and decided I wanted something different that just a standard ol' ported box. I don't have the room for a bandpass (tired of building those anyway), but I just so happen to have enough room for a folded horn/t-line. So yeah, I think that's what I'm going to do. Just need to get accurate measurements of the cargo area and start calculating throat/mouth width, expansion rate, line length, yada yada.

Having tested multiple enclosures in a single cab Dodge (2nd gen), I will say sub on passenger side low in the enclosure with port running above the sub, also firing passenger side; 9-12 sq in per cube tuned in the high 30's/low 40's will be ideal for a ground pounder that will also get loud on the meter. And don't let that tuning scare you into thinking it won't get low. My last setup before I sold my single cab was 1 15" on about 2000 -2500wrms in a box that was 3.5 net with 38 sq I of port tuned to 40 hz; all behind the seats with sub behind the passenger seat and port firing towards the passenger wall. Would do a 148 at 42 hz, and a 145 at 28 hz. Now, in this configuration your passenger seat will be much louder than your driver seat (because of how it loads, especially with the driver door open). But, this makes for an excellent demo machine. Hope that helps.

Well, I'm sure most of you saw the box I built for local customer Bobby for 2 Evil 18's in a suburban. Well, tax time came around and guess what, he bought 2 more Evil 18's! I wanted to keep the box from being massively tall, but I was able to manage 20 cubes net! I just started today, but I might get it assembled (or at least half assembled) by this evening. Anyway, onto the pictures... Specs: 20 cubes net 14" Octaport 32 hz Badass window bracing Letting the Octaport dry, while I cut out the bracing.

Well, I figured I would make a simple price guide to my enclosure. ***I do NOT ship enclosures*** Sealed: 1 10: $50 1 12: $60 1 15: $75 1 18: $90 Ported: 1 10: $100 2 10s: $120 4+10s: $160 1 12: $120 2 12s: $140 4+12s: $180 1 15: $140 2 15s: 180 4+15s: $200 1 18: $160 2 18s: $240 4+18s: $350 Extras: Flush mount: $20 Kerfed port: $40 Octaport: $40 Bedliner: $40 Paint: $40 Carpet: $50 All enclosures come with 5/16" bolt terminals. I do not use silicone in any of my enclosures. Clean/straight cuts account for that. Bracing is figured into the price. When I have room (and need) some big bracing, I'll make it count. (i.e. I could have used all thread in the 4 18 Evil box, but I wanted to do something different, and would brace better than all thread).

Started on this box for a local customer this afternoon. Subs being used are 2 AB XFL 15's being powered by a Kicker 2500.1. All this going in a 90's model single cab Chevy. Box specs: Rear chamber: 6.0 cubes net (2) 3.5" octaports tuned to 26hz Front chamber: 6.0 cubes net 16" octaport tuned to 58hz Pictures as they are taken...

Thanks guys! Wish the customer would get a better electrical system so he can REALLY see what this thing can do. Already wants to tear the passenger door off the hinges. Haha.

No reason to brace the rear ports. They are VERY solid. Ive been building furniture and boxes for almost 10 years now. However, ive built roughly 90% of my boxes (around 150) in the last 2 years.

So you bought a pre fab box made for subs like Pyramid, Sony, Kicker, and Ebay junk (which have small stamped steel baskets), then expect a good subwoofer with a nice basket to fit in it? Even if you had gotten the sub in the box, it more than likely would have sounded like crap. Buy good equipment, get a good box built. I've even proven to people you can do good numbers with junk equipment. Clif notes: OP can't research before he buys prefab boxes, and blames the least likely suspect for his problems.

Bobby demoing for some people at a local meet-up.

Finished!

Almost done!

Thank you!

Well the port is only 17" tall, so it shouldnt be a problem..

Gettin' there...

External port. He said he had 18.5" tall to cut, so we good on room. This is a lot better than the "typical blow through" thats built by local shops or "pros"... Just a ported box in the bed and cutting just about every square inch of the back of the cab out. Designed a box for a guy about a year ago and had a friend build it. Guy was originally running 4 HDC3 15's in a "blow through" (ported box and a massive hole). Designed a 6th order for 2 of the 15's. Went from a 143 to a 149, with 2 less subs...

Yep. Im building the box, customer will be cutting the metal and installing.

I dont think people plan for their brake booster to.flex so much it rubs plastic down..

Got the whole story: Plastic fuse block/holder rubbed on the aluminun brake lines because the entire booster/master cylinder shakes so violently from the bass (not an exaggeration). Plastic cracked, touched the + bolt on the brake line. After grounding itself multiple times, the aluminum line melted, causing brake fluid to flow out and fuel the fire. Entire electrical system shut down while going down the highway. Had to use the E-brake to stop.. He was very lucky it didnt become more serious than it did.