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Miles

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Posts posted by Miles

  3. Posted

    22 minutes ago, Infinite913 said:

    Like i may have to ask the OP where you snagged that at?

    Grainger. Product# 3BY23. We used these on big electric forklifts for charging. Thought it'd be a good idea for quick (and safe) removal when needing more space in the Jeep. No need to wrap wires or remove fuses. 

    4

  5. Posted

    Well,

    The Fi came in, so it's time to start a build log. Will continue with pictures of the enclosure as it progresses (might not be for another week or two with Christmas parties and stuff coming up). Rundown of what the system will consist of:

     

    Fi Alpha V2 15 D4, BP plug, Carbon dust cap

    Alpine MRX-M100 running at 2 ohms

    Factory radio with a Scosche LOC

    Ported box with viewing window, SPL dust, and custom fabrication like you've never seen. 

    IMG_20171212_181502242.jpg

    IMG_20171212_181517467.jpg

    IMG_20171212_181539619.jpg

    IMG_20171212_181600365.jpg

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  7. Posted

    Alright, I think I have a plan and it's nothing I said in the last post. I got to thinking about this (too much), and decided I wanted something different that just a standard ol' ported box. I don't have the room for a bandpass (tired of building those anyway), but I just so happen to have enough room for a folded horn/t-line. So yeah, I think that's what I'm going to do. Just need to get accurate measurements of the cargo area and start calculating throat/mouth width, expansion rate, line length, yada yada.

    1

  8. Posted

    Having tested multiple enclosures in a single cab Dodge (2nd gen), I will say sub on passenger side low in the enclosure with port running above the sub, also firing passenger side; 9-12 sq in per cube tuned in the high 30's/low 40's will be ideal for a ground pounder that will also get loud on the meter. And don't let that tuning scare you into thinking it won't get low. My last setup before I sold my single cab was 1 15" on about 2000 -2500wrms in a box that was 3.5 net with 38 sq I of port tuned to 40 hz; all behind the seats with sub behind the passenger seat and port firing towards the passenger wall. Would do a 148 at 42 hz, and a 145 at 28 hz. Now, in this configuration your passenger seat will be much louder than your driver seat (because of how it loads, especially with the driver door open). But, this makes for an excellent demo machine. Hope that helps. 

    1

  9. Posted · Edited by Miles

    Well,

    It's been a while since I've been on here. Graduated college and disappeared from the scene to start a career, which lead me to 3 states in 3 years. Finally got a vehicle I've always wanted: an SUV! Picked up an Alpine MRX-M100 on Craigslist for $50, and just bought a new Fi Alpha v2 15 yesterday (hopefully that comes in before the new year). Definitely won't be as heavily involved in the SPL scene as I was years ago, but I think I might just make something to have some fun with at a couple of competitions next summer. Here is my plan so far, and I would like input/feedback for anyone that has worked with a Renegade before:

     

    800-900 wrms realistically

    15" Fi sub

    Box: thinking 4.5-5 cubes net tuned at 36-38 hz but I can't decide on a couple of 6" octaports, a single 9-10" octaport, or a 60 sq in slot port along the bottom (the sides would be kerfed making it a kind of oval if that makes sense). All of these would be sub up/port back. 

    If I can break a 145, I'd be satisfied. If I could get close to or break a 50, I'd be more than pleased. 

    Let me know what you guys think of box design/orientation for an SUV to maximize my efficiency. And if y'all remember me, don't be afraid to throw out crazy ideas. I've done some crazy things with boxes.

    Anyway, here's the current setup that I threw together last weekend to get the ball rolling (another craigslist deal on the sub). 2.0 net tuned to 35 with a 4" aero. (Doing a 41-42 on the ear-o-meter sealed)

    Thanks!

     

    IMG_20171118_085947531.jpg

    IMG_20171118_115605363.jpg

    1

  12. Posted

    So you bought a pre fab box made for subs like Pyramid, Sony, Kicker, and Ebay junk (which have small stamped steel baskets), then expect a good subwoofer with a nice basket to fit in it? Even if you had gotten the sub in the box, it more than likely would have sounded like crap. Buy good equipment, get a good box built. I've even proven to people you can do good numbers with junk equipment. 

     

    Clif notes: OP can't research before he buys prefab boxes, and blames the least likely suspect for his problems.

    1

  19. Posted

    External port. He said he had 18.5" tall to cut, so we good on room. :D This is a lot better than the "typical blow through" thats built by local shops or "pros"... Just a ported box in the bed and cutting just about every square inch of the back of the cab out.

    Designed a box for a guy about a year ago and had a friend build it. Guy was originally running 4 HDC3 15's in a "blow through" (ported box and a massive hole). Designed a 6th order for 2 of the 15's. Went from a 143 to a 149, with 2 less subs...

    0

  21. Posted

    Started on this box for a local customer this afternoon. Subs being used are 2 AB XFL 15's being powered by a Kicker 2500.1. All this going in a 90's model single cab Chevy.

    Box specs:

    Rear chamber:

    6.0 cubes net

    (2) 3.5" octaports tuned to 26hz

    Front chamber:

    6.0 cubes net

    16" octaport tuned to 58hz

    Pictures as they are taken...

    2014-04-25_17-43-02_619_zpsdb5fe799.jpg

    1

  23. Posted

    Got the whole story:

    Plastic fuse block/holder rubbed on the aluminun brake lines because the entire booster/master cylinder shakes so violently from the bass (not an exaggeration). Plastic cracked, touched the + bolt on the brake line. After grounding itself multiple times, the aluminum line melted, causing brake fluid to flow out and fuel the fire. Entire electrical system shut down while going down the highway. Had to use the E-brake to stop.. He was very lucky it didnt become more serious than it did.

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