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Raymond Farmer

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Posts posted by Raymond Farmer

  3. Posted · Edited by Team Man-Up (Ray)

    I don't use any fancy batteries in my system. I use two 1050 CA batteries that I get for $75 a piece. I also have a 40.1 and the voltage stays nice and high with no light dimming in my Jeep. I also use 2/0 gauge wiring and run my 40.1 at .5 ohms. That's my .02

    I don't get what cranking amps would have to do with car audio. You should be looking at amp hours or ah. Cranking amps were more of a deal when every car had huge v8 engines and were hard to crank over.

    Cranking amps are very important, thats how much current the battery is capable of producing for 30 seconds. Very important thing to know especially in a competition situation

    You are absolutely correct. The most important things in car audio, as far as batteries are concerned are

    1. Cold cranking amps/Max amps (all the same)

    2. Internal resistance (how fast a battery can discharge its power. A good Internal resistance is between 1.8 - 3 mOhms. Anything higher, requires too much work for the amp to draw power, anything lower, can cause the amp to drain power to fast and not keep a constant power output.)

    In short, amp hour (ah) don't mean squat. Ah is only good for telecom purposes.

    Example. A battery with a CCA of 900 amp/internal resistance of 2.2/ah of 90 vs a battery with a CCA of 900/internal resistance of 4/ ah of 102, I put my money on the battery with the lower internal resistance and lower ah every time.

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  5. Posted

    Nice job!! But Jacob, dont make me come out of retirement and rip your azz up!! LOL!!! J/K, nice work dude!!

    I'd love to see some crazy 8s numbers from you Ray :) Thanks!

    Seriously...after the holidays I can come down to your shop, for a weekend and build a crazy 8 set up.

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  8. Posted

    All SA-8 pre-orders have shipped.

    when will the special order 8s be shipped (spl coils)?

    whats up ray!!!!!!

    its big jon from texas!!!!

    just a little FYI ray was the first to school me to some SUNDOWN and to SSA.... thanks ray!!!! still doing BIG things with little woofers i see... WHOOP!!

    Glad to hear it. And thanks for the shout out!! I turned a lot of guys on to sundown, but some don't have the decency to admit it like you!! I also got a couple of guys to become dealers out here. Still rep'n for Jake. He's kool, with a great product and great customer service!!

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  12. Posted · Edited by Team Man-Up (Ray)

    And well, i will let the following photo say it all......

    36094_10150212699210107_782535106_13062155_1054699_n.jpg

    The car has 2 x Sundown 4500d's

    Strapped at 0.35 - 0.175 per amp

    Measured output across the pair

    105.3 volts

    121.2 amps

    = 12,762 watts output - or in laymans terms "a ****load"

    Battery was dropping to 10.5 volts as well!

    I do not condont this sort of abuse - one of the amps was going into protect which is something i need to investigate further, however whichever way you look at it - 6.3K from a 4.5k amp with no engine charging the battery (StreetMax) is pretty awesome going.

    I feel i must also give some of the credit to the DC LV 4XL SPL motored subs, as they seem to be standing up to the abuse very well so far!!!

    NICE!

    Any Panda can do that! It's a Panda! lol

    (lol) Thats what you think!!!(lol) At finals of 2008 in Indiannapolis, a panda was in Street A , quiet as a church mouse! Pandas and crx's are the loudest street vehicles you can have, but just like any other car, it will take a lot of work to get them there!!

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  13. Posted · Edited by Team Man-Up (Ray)

    Now I need to say something. First, there is always a critic out there about everything that is done. And it is usually given by people who never make it pass first base. This type of so called modification, has been done in dbdrag for years. In alot of CRX's there has been some sort of change in the battery section by elite Street Class dbdraggers

    1. Brad Faggard

    2. Terry Brocks

    3. Team Neo Eric

    4. Team Neo Vernon

    5. Mike Sharitka

    6.........So one and so on!

    As long as you dont make any modifications to the car, that will cause the interior space to decrease, you can do what you want. And also you can do cosmetic changes to the exterior or interior as to make the care have a better appearance. And also....I will challenge any one to check out that crx for any rule braking modifications. Cause I will tell you, if any one was at finals in 2008, When I broke the 155.4 mark in street A, those mofos removed my panels, removed the headliner and checked for batts in the amps. And when I hit a score of 155.9 with one 12, at a 3x event in 2009, they checked it again......and again nothing!!

    And this little remark.......

    well that crx should of never been allowed in any street class!

    because your not allowed to beat the fender in the get a bigger battery under the hood!

    makes you wonder what other rules they broke to get the big numbers???

    Totally wrong!!! Ya need to know your rules before you open your mouth!!!

    2

  14. Posted · Edited by Team Man-Up (Ray)

    What amp are you running? If you have a good electrical system and the amp can run below 1 ohm, I don't see a problem running 3 dual 4 sa8's and the amp seeing 0.66 ohms or 3 dual 2's at 1.33 ohms. If you are running the SAZ model amp! If I am wrong someone please enlighten me!

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  15. Posted · Edited by Team Man-Up (Ray)

    do some research on those ap amps. They are being used everywhere, plenty of reviews about them.

    One of my local friends even has one and even i love it and don't own it, lol.

    I dont know much about audiopipe amps, but I would like to say, a higher ohm load does not always mean more effeciency. You would have to do a current draw test to see which is more effecient. Example: 100 amp current draw gives off 900 watts @ 4 ohms; another amp with a 100 amp current draw gives off 900 watts at 2 ohms, which is more efficient. They are the same, when one amp is not 2 or 1 ohm stable. Now if the 4 ohm amp is not 2 ohm stable it cant give you more power. Now with both amps having the same current draw and the 4 ohm amp gives you 950 watts and the 2 ohms amp gives you 850 then you can say the 4 ohm amp is more efficient. Basically you have to compare amps input to its output, of amps in the SAME POWER CLASS to say which is more effecient! Or check voltage drops and power output, but the box rise have to be consistant with both amps.

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  18. Posted

    I Say The Warden. More Woofer Per Dollar. I'd Rather Not Spend $5000 On A One-Note Wonder.

    I dont know anyones background, but most people go on hear say, dont be fooled, the DDZ was made for spl, but it does sounds pretty good on music. Have I heard better sounding subs, of coarse, example the UL12. But over all it does sound pretty good. As being over priced, I think DD can do a little better on that end. But overall it is a pretty stout, good sounding and strong woofer.

    And in my experience, the woofer represents more than 3% of the set up. The box is definitely the main focus of any system setup (SQ or SPL). However, the woofer would be around the 15-20% mark. Because I have built boxes for a particular sub, then using the same box and switched out the sub and go up 1.5 db. That is a 50% gain in spl. I think power is the lowest factor or the scale. Example, any particaular box design, change sub can give you a 1.5db increase, change port design can give you a 3 db increase. Go back to the orginal sub and box setup, increase power you may get a slight change in db or no db gain. So the db's are MAINLY in the box tuning and sub, not power. Has anyone ever made a box, tested it and the amp is reading 6kw and your score is in the toilet?! :Doh::lol: But if you have an efficient box design and loud sub, then and only then does the power make a difference. More efficient setup(box and sub) is the key, not power. Power takes care of itself. So I do agree the majority of the work must go into the set up, however I would break it down like this.

    Box 70%

    Sub 20%

    Power 10%

    Just my opinion!

    And I would buy one, however, not talking chit, I already have the DDZ12, I am already close to 156 (actually 155.9) in street A. If I can get a guarranteed return if the Warden is not louder than the DDZ, then I will buy one. If I needed to get a neo sub, if I didn't already have one, yes the warden would be the first choice.

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  19. Posted

    Hey Guys,

    My name is Ray Farmer, I use the DD99Z12, I say it is pretty awsome. I have hit some serious numbers with this sub. But it is an interesting question what driver is stronger. I would love to do a comparison test between the two. :fing34:

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  21. Posted · Edited by Team Man-Up (Ray)

    I recently received my 3500D and I hooked it up as is, and it was playin well, the next day I did some minor adjustments until my speaker friend came and made correct settings. Next thing you know I'm driving for at least 5 minutes with the volume on 10 and the amp made A POP SOUND and went into protect mode. I had to send it back to get fixed. Has any1 else experienced problems with there new 3500D. Please let me know asap

    You should not put this type of info on a forum until things get resolved or not resolved. In a situation like this, I find that these simple steps work well.

    1. Report the problem to the manufacturer

    2. Let the manufacturer find out the problem. (this is the hard part waiting, I normally give 2 weeks or so for them to get back to me, if they dont I call them)

    3. After the problem is found, let the manufacturer give you options, if you dont think it is fair, then let them know. Every single manufacturer may have 1% or less of thier products have a defect, no manufacturer is perfect.

    4. Then if you cant get it resolved, then post. The same goes with a manufacturer resolving it, post the outcome. People tend to post band thing but not good ones. But dont jump the gun by posting FIRST. There are SOME shady manufactures. But SUNDOWN IS TOP NOTCH and Jacob is a top notch guy. Most of the time he will work with you, even if it is clearly the consumers fault.

    So please do not put these types of post up prematurely.

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  23. Posted · Edited by Team Man-Up (Ray)

    Okay, I have done my SAZ3000D 12volt power test. I would like to say, WOW!!

    My nominal ohm load was 0.5 ohms. I did plenty of test but I got the amp to do its power at the proper settings and did 3 test and took the average.

    I used 2 x NSB-g3100 to power the amp, Starting voltage 13.2

    Test 1

    75.1 volts

    39.9 amps

    2996.5

    box rise 1.88

    voltage drop 12.2

    Test 2

    75.1 volts

    37.7 amps

    2827.5 watts

    box rise 1.99

    voltage drop 12.1

    Test 3

    76.0 volts

    39.5 amps

    3002.0 watts

    box rise 1.9

    voltage drop 12.1

    Average of 3 test

    75.4 volts

    39.03 amps

    2942.86 watts

    box rise 1.92 approximately 2 ohms

    So 2942.86 watts @ 2ohms @ 12.1 volts

    That is some power!!! :fing34:

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  24. Posted

    This is the "official" post to be linked in our sticky amp power testing post :

    -----

    This testing done on my Extech True Power meter a full 6-10 seconds in to the burp so we are not catching peak values:

    http://www.extech.com/instrument/products/...399/380976.html

    -----

    HIGH VOLTAGE TESTING:

    6x Powermaster D1000s used for testing

    17.9 volts rest - did not measure voltage drop.

    10,320 watts from the pair @ 1.5 ohms each after rise starting at 0.5 DCR

    5160 each

    11,470 watts from the pair @ 1.3 ohms each after rise starting at 0.5 DCR

    5735 per amp

    -----

    12v SYSTEM TESTING:

    Starting battery + 2x Powermaster D3100s used for testing

    3980 @ 0.25 rising to 0.65 @ 11.2v (engine on)

    2050 @ 1 rising to 2.44 @ 12.2v (engine off)

    With a bit more voltage on tap you can easily expect more power.

    I will be doing the same 12v system test, but with two NSB-g3100's.

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  25. Posted · Edited by Team Man-Up (Ray)

    grr, re-read my 1st post and give your thoughts.. i ONLY used the Sundown amps as examples as i use them... the make of amp is not at question here..

    To answer your question, yes a 3k amp COULD and I mean COULD, be best suited to play a 1500 sub. At anytime and at any frequency or any note, the box rise could double, triple or quadruple. So, lets say your box rise is 3 times the impedance, you are at one ohm, at some frequencies, the box rise goes up to 3. Yes the 3k amp at that note/frequency is putting out about 1100 watts. But you have to be careful. If your box rise is not not high through out the bass frequencies (40 - 120 hz), if a song stays at a particular note or frequency too long, and you get no box rise, POOF there goes your sub!!!

    I dont know if you know this, but that is why spl competitors drop the impedance low (ex. 0.25 ohms), so if the box rise goes up to one ohm, they get the true RMS power of the amp for that 3 seconds at one ohm.

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