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sexterra

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Posts posted by sexterra

  1. Posted

    Wellllll

     

    If you already have the subs (D2) I'd opt for a single big amp like the BC5500, but pending the box size, you may not reach those subs full potential. I dunno...

     

    If you had D1's I'd opt for two BC3500's, I ran two strapped @.9 nominal. Definitely power houses. You can't always count on rise, like it has already been stated. 

     

    Hopefully I'm not beating a dead horse. 

    already have the subs, and they are D2, partial traded my xbl^2 xxx 15 for them. Im ordering my bc5500 as soon as i get back home from vacation. worst case i guess is run it and then sell for something bigger if i need it, which i doubt. And yeah, I have no clue what rise may or may not be. Box is being built by Bassheads ent. right now. Should be killer though, they do great work.

     

    no dead horse beating, this has been a pretty long drawn out decision process for me. I really want to get it right the first time and any input is appreciated.

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  4. Posted

    I have the Massive RK6 and love them.

    I do too! I was gonna run skar pax but decided on the rk instead. Great decision, they get super loud and sound awesome, after bumping them down 2db at 8khz and 10khz

    I want to run 3 sets up front and one in the back doors off a Crescendo c1100.4 (2 per channel for 300w at 2ohm). They definitely want more power than the sk85.4 puts out although i havent tried bridging it yet, feel like 250 per may be a bit much.

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  5. Posted

    single big amp. cendo

     

    Just saw your sig, how you liking your BC5500? what ohm load you got on it? and whats your electrical? just to give me an idea of how power hungry it is.

    also, how do you like the evil? looks beastly.

     

     

     

    Yea your right you will be happy either way but 4k to 6k you won't hear a difference in output. That's just my thought about it lol

     

    Im sure I will be.

    And you are most likely right that I wont. Ive gone over it atleast 783 times in my head and I cant figure it out. So im just gonna go with the big one haha

    and then maybe a c1100.4 and a few more set of massive RK6s

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  7. Posted

    When I said same brand I meant comparing sundown amps or audioque or crescendo like comparing different amps from the same company.

    You won't need 5.5k on them. You won't here a difference between 4k and 5.5k. It's kind of a waste if you want to spend more money.

     

    Oh, wasnt sure which brands you were referring to.

     

    And if i was going to go that route I already messed up by selling my AQ2200d haha. But I think I'll spend the money and get the 5.5k.

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  8. Posted

    I thought they were of the same brand. I would take the bc5500 over the skars.

     

    If you had skars the amps would be at 1 ohm each.

     

    Do you already have the subs? Is that why you need to have a final ohm load of .5 or 2? I'm not sure if you said it was for daily or not, but if it is, why not 2 bc2ks like R3dt34rz strapped? You won't hear a difference in output from the two amps strapped to the 1 bigger amp. Also the two bc2ks would be cheaper.

     

    negative on same brand. Im pretty sure skars are chinese and crescendos are korean boards.

     

    Right.

     

    And yes, I have them already. Got them in a trade for me 05 re xxx + cash. pretty solid trade. 

    Id like a little more power than 2x2k on em, i had my aq2200d on one of em and it laughed at it. these bitches are STIFF

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  9. Posted

    Also, first post was a little unclear, each sub at 1ohm strapped would end up with a 2ohm nominal load, vs the .5 on single amp. Im thinking the two amps would be alot easier on my electrical and easier on the amps, but rise could be pretty bad.

     

     

    Look into the flatline ba1. Serious 5k amp.

     

    Id be interested, but theyre around 1500, that a decent bit more then what id be paying for my other options.

     

     

    2 BC2000ds strapped

    Id rather do the 3.5s strapped. Im looking into it.

     

     

    Is this for competition or strictly for street beating?

    Daily and demos. not in for numbers, just loud to the ear.

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  11. Posted · Edited by sexterra

    The

    box will have to do with rise and not an amplifier, so that is not

    gonna get answered. I rather do one big amp but most people like

    strapping, it will come down to personal preference really.

     

     

    Thats true, but the starting impedance will have to do with rise...

     

    The box will be the same regardless of which route.

    so im pretty sure i would rise to a lower load after rise if i ran a single amp at .5ohms than ran 2 amps at 1ohm each.

     

    ^is that correct?

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  12. Posted · Edited by sexterra

    Looking for a bit of advice on purchasing a new amp/amps.

     

    Ill be running a pair of D2 crossfire XSV2 15s tuned around 30hz.

     

    My dilemma is whether I would get more out of (ie more power, less rise):

     

    A pair of 2.5k amps (probably Skar 2500), bridged and wired to 1ohm each

     

    OR

     

    A single 5k amp run at .5ohm

     

    Electrical is:

     

    2 runs 1/0 OFC (one is knu, other is memphis) and 1/0 Big 3

    Kinetic HC2400 up front

    3 deka group 34 AGMs in the back (55ah a piece, 750cca)

    270a-320a altenator (will be added after amps)

     

     

    Thanks in advance for any help!

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  13. Posted

    So basically you are a "if I can hear the music with the sub turned up I'm happy" kinda guy?

    I mean i guess theres no sort of middleground? bc thats what id be going for. Im not asking for audiphile grade sound or even close. If it sounds as good as my Type R's then I'll be happy, i just want more volume.

    The reason why some of us are leaning towards active isn't so much about SQ, but just opening the door to speakers with more "oomph" to get the front stage output closer to the sub-bass output.

    Another thing that hasn't been addressed, and can make a very big difference is sound deadening. Aside from quieting the door panel so it doesn't rattle, you want the panel that the speaker is mounted to to be sealed as much as possible, otherwise it'll kill your midbass.

    IE: http://blog.stefanhi...1-51-46_959.jpg

    Notice the large opening to the right, and various holes. I covered those up with cld tiles, then applied a sheet of mlv over it: http://blog.stefanhi...2-47-48_674.jpg

    So with some slight dremel work to the door, is 6.5" the largest speaker you can fit? Next, what about depth? Be sure to measure with window glass down. Any room for using spacers if depth becomes an issue? If so, how much?

    OKay, what would some of those speakers be? Or what kind of specs should i be looking for from speakers to determine things such as its relative volume potential, quality of sound, whether it will produce mid-bass or not. etc.

    I understand that deadening is important. I havent really budgeted for it now (full time student, shitty job and paying for tuition), but it will happen in the future. I.e when I can really pinpoint whats rattling and efectively apply it. I know for sure that my back hatch needs it now that my XXX and port are firing at it.

    6x9 is the largest up front, with a 2.5 inch cutout in the dash for a tweeter (i wouldnt mind cutting into my door panel for a tweet tho) and Ive got a little over 3" without spacers and probably an inch of clearance in front (i wouldnt mind cutting out the factory grilles though). Rear doors, a 6.5 will fit, and ive got maybe a little under 3" in depth and I dont mind cutting the grilles. I can take better measurements when I have time to pop off my door panels sometime this week.

    SO what I'm looking for is something that will sound as good or better than my type R's and will be a lot louder (and wont blow from <85w like my type R's)

    One thing I haven't seen touched on is why that speaker blew. The reason it's important to investigate is that you can "upgrade" speakers all you want, but if the Type R blew because of a system setting issue (gain, crossover, EQ, etc) then the likelihood an "upgrade" will potentially suffer the same fate is very high.....which makes any money spent a potential waste.

    The reason I had it checked, was that my amp would cut out so that audio was really really faint and then come back after 1 or 2 seconds. I was told by a local shop (Maximum Audio Video) that it was a speaker defect, and that i should warranty it (which i was dumb enough not to do).So they took the speaker out and it stopped cutting out. My door speakers and amp were professionally installed by the same shop, so I dont think it would be a wiring issue. I have my gains set realtively low, and my crossovers are set to 100Hz, and my eq is mainly dipped in the midrange.

    For some reason, the problem has started again recently and happens randomly when I turn my amp up to over 20 (used to happen around 15 or 16 with my comps) so I'm really not sure what the problem might be.

    One of my friends has the SMD distortion detector, and a crossover calibrator, so all of the gains and crosses will be set with those.

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  14. Posted

    pulled the trigger on box and sub. After looking at it, the pics made it look way worse tbh. Surround, and cone are perfectly fine. Metered to 1.8ohms per coil. And this thing is an absolutely HUGE step up from what I previously had (Kicker comps lol) night and day difference even though its way underpowered on my amp. This thing is just begging for more power and I cant wait to give it to it.

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  15. Posted

    The more you say the less I think that you really want true SQ. Just go to your local shop and demo some components. Put the ones that you already have in the rear if you must, and use the extra money on the front.

    That would be accurate, i guess i shouldnt have included any notion of sound quality in this thread since its basically been the sole factor in eliminating any speaker ive considered and is a small consideration in an overall goal. I DO NOT WANT A PURE SQ SETUP.

    I want speakers that will be loud enough to get over the 15/18 that I end up with and will sound pretty good (our definitions of good are probably very different. I though my type R's sounded "good" so probably take what you would consider sound quality ans scale that back about 5 notches)

    SO what I'm looking for is something that will sound as good or better than my type R's and will be a lot louder (and wont blow from <85w like my type R's)

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  16. Posted

    Pretty funny stuff.

    Let me bridge the gap.

    An 18" subwoofer has a lot of cone area, so it produces a lot of output. In order for the front stage to be balanced with this output you need a lot of cone area--at least for the midbass - midrange region. The higher frequency range doesn't require much, so it's not an issue.

    So basically you have a lot of cone area in the sub-bass region, and require a fair amount of cone area in the mid region to seek some balanced sound.

    You aren't willing to fabricate your doors, so your severely limited to what the stock door panel can hold. This is where you compromise. No one is being an arseho to be an arseho.

    Super-tweeters have crazy output for high frequency, but at the cost of bandwidth, and possibly sound quality. Your biggest issue or factor is the midbass - midrange, not high frequency.

    Most component sets have mid drivers with a higher bandwidth to mate with their smaller tweeters, but they also more than likely sacrifice output for that bandwidth extension.

    You can use some component set with a 6.5" speaker in the front (use an adapter from 6x8 to 6.5), it won't be balanced, but it might be enough for you.

    Or go active, and if done right you'll be a lot closer to balanced.

    For what it's worth I had an 18" ICON in a sealed enclosure, my front stage uses a 6.5"-7" driver for the mid region, and although it offers a lot more midbass output then most other setups the icon would still easily overwhelm it. So 99% of the time I had the icon turned down, so the overall sound was more balanced, and more enjoyable.

    An answer that includes explanation of why certain things will not work, and how it applies to my situation! For that, I thank you. I was starting to lose hope.

    Glad you appreciate the humor, figured that would be an appropriate way to express my frustration. I understand that people are trying to help, but I need help in a way that actually helps me, and is more constructive than "nothing will work".

    Im going today to check out an 05 RE XXX 15" for $200 that looks like it might be a go. I should have it in a box for $300 or less, so a little more flexibility in budget. So hopefully that goes well.

    Okay so basically my list of limitations is speakers will go in doors ( i will trim plastic and do minor fabrication to make them fit/ look good)

    I want speakers in my front AND rear doors ( or above and behind the rear seats in boxes).

    Id prefer to spend less $500 on making this happen ( $800 including new amp if needed)

    What I listen to is mostly bass heavy electronic (sub and mid high and high focus), with some country and metal (dont mind turning down sub for these, thats why theres remote knobs right?)

    My goal is to have a decent level of sound quality, and enough volume to hear them even with the bass output. Im not looking for competition level SQ (if you couldnt figure that out from lack of specificity, and budget). Lets focus more on practical and less on ideal.

    So my question now becomes what kind of cone area do i need to accomplish this goal, and what are some products that might work?

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  18. Posted

    Doesn't exist, although I expect my idea of "balance out" and yours are different. Think about it, it is by far the easiest to get a sub loud than anything else. Why would you then think you can take 80% of your budget and put it in your sub/s and have things balance out?

    They aren't blown away by the crappy 12's, but by the lack of front stage. Rears are useless.

    CDT's aren't your solution either. Step one is to pick your compromise so far I don't know what that is.

    How is $300 80% of a $1500 budget? im my math is right, thats about exactly 20% on subs... and if you count another $300-350 for the amp powering it then its still less than half the budget.

    So yes, I would suppose we have different ideas of balance.

    Lets say my compromise is moderate sound quality for the sake of volume.

    Would CDTs or crescendo or anything for that matter be acceptable coupled with the 18?

    Or should I just ditch any plans of even having speakers in my doors, get a nice heaphone splitter and get sweet headphones for everyone in the car and run the sub for bass?

    Because basically what ive gathered so far is this:

    Crescendo sucks.

    Skar sucks and is run by a douschebag.

    Super tweeters suck.

    CDT isnt good enough.

    Rear door speakers are worthless, not even sure why factory bothered putting any there to begin with.

    And I need more money which I don't have.

    So is there something I'm missing here?

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  19. Posted

    Just talked to the guy on the phone, hes the original owner and only used it for home audio with an 85 watt amp so its never been in a car or pushed. Feeling pretty good about that for $200 (or $300 if it needs a recone).

    and the box is triple baffle with 3/4" Mdf, 45" by 18" by 19.5" port tuned to 30 Hz. Ill have to make a subfloor to clear it over my wheel wells, but for $100, I dont think i can beat it. The MDF alone would cost that.

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  21. Posted

    Search doesnt really work for looking up CDT speakers since CDT is three letters and can't be searched on this forum.

    I have read a bunch of good stuff about them for SQ though, and at 150w i don't see how they couldn't be pretty damn loud. I also really like that theyre 2 ohm so i can get more out of my amp, and they can take it.

    I guess Id just like to know the opinions of people who own them, and what there listening preferences tend to be.

    Personally i listen to a lot of electronic music so thats mostly to the subs and upper midrange and highs, but I still like to have a good bit of mid-bass for metal and some country that i listen to.

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  22. Posted

    its kinda rough looking , imho i'd say no

    rather take the $200 or more & buy a bnib sub from any of the brands sold here on ssa

    Yeah, im going to take a look at it. He says they were just rubbed by a dog bone and they didnt actually tear. so i guess ill just check both sides of the surround to see if it was torn or not.

    Any idea about the possibility of motor problems?

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  23. Posted

    What are you going to power it with? I'd rather buy a GCON for $200 than a sub that's 7 years old unless you know you'd be able to get a recone.

    Massive audio N4, 2k watts at 1ohm since the XXX is 2 ohm DVC. I can get a recone, Fi makes them and they're like $100 so I'd have a badass 15" and still be under budget. So I'd probably order it and just take it somewhere local rather than shipping a 55+ pound sub to Vegas.

    If I buy a new sub, ill be get an Icon 15 or 18.

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