helotaxi

Most HUs can't put out enough voltage to cause most amps to clip with the gain set to minimum. And actually in the simplest of terms, the gain knob is precisely a volume control.

Kick panels are your best option. Barring that, they make contacts that go in the door and the door jamb and make contact when the door is closed. The final option is drill oversized holes and use grommets in the jamb and the door. You can use split or wrap loom to protect the wire further.

I think it's because a clipped wave is square('d), if it's square the cone stays longer at the upper and lower side of the wave. Less movement=less cooling. The wave form output of the amp is not an accurate depiction of cone position. As long as voltage is being applied to the coil, the cone is trying to move away from center. The only reasons that it will stop is if the voltage is insufficient to overcome the centering force of the spider and surround or the driver hits an actual mechanical limit. Barring either of those happening, the cone continues to move outward during the clipped portion of the signal.

In the case of an analog signal, the resolution is technically infinite regardless of voltage. In the case of a digital signal resolution is determined by the bit rate of the source again regardless of the voltage. Where voltage can make a difference is in signal to noise. Even the best signal wires will have some thermal noise. This is basically caused by electrons moving naturally within the atoms of the wire. This noise voltage is not in any way related to the signal. The signal must compete with this noise though. A higher signal voltage will allow the amp gain to be kept low which minimizes the amount that the noise is amplified. That is the only benefit of higher preamp voltage.

Since the question was never really answered... The Epicenter at least is more of a synthesizer than any kind of equalizer. It samples the input signal over a certain frequency range and then adds sub-harmonics of the frequencies present in the original signal. So if, for example, the notes of the primary bass line are at 50, 60 and 80 hz, it would add content at 25, 30 and 40 hz to marry up with the original content. The idea is that the content added is based on the original signal so it should sound correct. IIRC the level knob adjusts the amplitude of the added content relative to the original signal.

You will not hear one bit of difference between the dual 2 sub and the dual 1 sub that you currently have UNLESS the new sub is also larger, there simply isn't a big enough difference in power between the 1 and 2 ohm power of that amp. To get a real difference you either need to increase cone area of the single driver or go with a pair of drivers. The pair will likely net you the biggest gain since it is the option that will reduce power compression and actually increase the efficiency of the individual drivers.

I was thinking the "original" AA...

Ease of "calculating" a parameter that WinISD will figure for you with the basic T/S parameters entered hardly seems a "quality" to me in the first place. The square driver is valid in concept, it does give you more cone area for a given sized baffle. The problem has been with the drivers that have actually used square cones and the issue of dealing with the focused stress points created by the shape.

Looks right to me.

thanks but umm...what? Indirect answer to this question

If the prefab box was actually CORRECTLY glued, the wood would fail before the joint. I usually use brad nails to keep the panels aligned while I put the clamps in place. The only use for screws would be as a substitute for clamps. if you were in a hurry to get it all glued up.

Current follows the path of least resistance, so if impedance is the same, power is divided equally So if I have 7 4ohm speakers 3 in series and 4 in series then those lines parallel they all receive the same power. No, but I think that you knew that. The voltage is equal across each major parallel segment of the circuit. The current is constant through each series portion. Fairly simple math using Ohm's Law can give you the power to each load in the circuit as long as you know the load and voltage and how it is all wired together. BTW, 12 tweets on a single amp is completely stupid and could not have sounded like anything other than noise. That said, back in the day, Speaker Warehouse (JL Audio) built "the Blazer" that had 37 speakers including 8 10w5s wired to a single PPI 2-channel amp. It won 4 consecutive IASCA titles IIRC.

Buddy of mine had one of those on 4 Kicker Comp 12s back in the early 90's. I still question why anyone would need more output than that...

The passive crossover makes it so the amp only "sees" one driver in the set at any given frequency. At high freqs the amp only "sees" the tweeter and likewise with the woofer at lower freqs. The drivers are effectively wired in parallel but the filter portion wired in series with each driver rises rapidly in impedance as the frequency moves away from the filter point. In the case of a low pass filter, for example, as the frequency rises from the filter point, the impedance of the filter itself moves toward infinity. For all intents and purposes it acts almost like an open circuit once the freq is far enough from the filter point.

You can probably better satisfy your goals with subs other than the Q and it certainly doesn't make sense to just decide to go with 2kw on the subs especially if you're going with a sealed enclosure. You'd probably be better served with a pair of more efficient 15s and around 1kw. That saves you the trouble of massive electrical upgrades to support power you really don't need.

I think the surround needs to be a little higher roll...

No reason to double the side walls either.

You suck at math. That's actually 2^4 x louder which would be 16X not 5X

Because the subs will load in the chamber between them, you have no idea what the sound is going to be like. It's going to act something like a bandpass but again, modeling response is going to be a little bit interesting.

Assuming that you have them wired in phase, cancellation isn't an issue. They'll load off each other and the overall result is extremely difficult to predict accurately.

Often you can get a bigger opening by removing the back seat temporarily to get the folding frame out of the way.

You have to pull the skin voltage off the battery to get to resting voltage. How much current that takes depends on the battery. The real answer there though is that the guy isn't getting 4kW for any length of time or likely at all. Music is very dynamic and you're usually looking at 10dB or so of dynamics which means that 4kw max averages out to around 400w for real.

Sure don't. You usually have to seat them with a mallet before putting the screws in. Otherwise the prongs usually just fold under and sometimes snap off.

U should be a english teacher.(Smart ass)m don't read the thread if u dnt like it. Aint nobody forcing u to read it

Step one, throw your T-nuts in the trash and order Hurricane nuts from Parts Express. Once you have them threaded in (hurricane nuts thread into the pilot hole instead of using prongs into the interior facing) squeeze a drop of sealant into the screw hole just before you mount the sub. The sealant will seal the hole around the nut and the threads through the nut. It will also somewhat act as a thread locker.