Basshead

i like these tests

won a door pack of damplifier pro over on *** (thanks ant ) and got it all in. put it on my hatch instead of my door tho. the hatch was in way more need of it lol. stuff is NIIIIICE! very nice quality. here's some pics, and a tiny comparison vid at the end ballin! took the panel off first. probably will paint it black before it goes back on all the areas i have to cover took the clips to this off to make it a lil easier

paper towels? lol that's awesome! the back glass is a bitch. and there's some loose-ish wires and mechanisms that need to be fastened down up in there too. which will help with the bitch rattling

got it all done! got 2 layers everywhere except the thin spots around the window which weren't as necessary. i havent stood outside the car while it's playing to see if there's a difference yet, but i do have this: definitely sounds more solid. i will be going to second skin for more deadening for sure

oh and to add, the fi and lvl 5 arent rated for that much power either although they can all take it if the box is built properly and electrical is up to par

with a lil knowledge you can run that amp to a sundown nightshade. i have one per 18 at .5 ohms in my explorer for daily use

that's a very nice lookin install (as always) and i agree with everyone else on the doors. they came out niiiiiice

i'd suggest at least a 200 amp alternator. i run XS power batts and i love them. i plan on buying a couple more in the neat future when funds are a lil more in my favor. check http://www.mechman.com for alts as well as batteries. i get my batteries from there, and i'm sending my ohio gen alt there for repair and for a lil extra amperage. nice company to work with, with great prices. DC power is another good company to look into for alts.

x3. if a sub is rated at a certain RMS level, it shouldnt need more power than that to perform properly

hide that relay! would look much cleaner with it hidden i've got a few of them here myself and may do a similar setup, depending where i finalize my amp position. looks good tho nice equipment

28-35 daily. As for competition you have to find out your peak freq and do a lot of test n tune. For square inches of port, generally between 14 - 16 per cubic foot is whats used. imo it really isnt useful to tune below 30 hz. unless you listen to a lot of chopped and screwed music since most rap music peaks around the 40's. and rock peaking a lil higher. my box with the 32 8's was tuned to ~30 hz. it sounded nice and everything, but the box with my pair of 18's is tuned between 35-36 and i like it MUCH better. still hits the lows juuuust fine. and sounds better overall. EDIT: but then again that's where personal preference comes into play

i forget actually. i think i was searching around when looking into some BTL's. then came across here through google. i think lol

it's just the way the equation works out for the tuning. if you've ever seen it, it's pretty complicated and jumbled up. i'll work on somethin for ya. probably get to it tomorrow. i'm about to leave here for the night and i'm off tomorrow so i have plenty of time. oh and thanks did you download the last link to the program on the second page? that's the most up to date version. i cant edit my original posts yet (i guess cuz of lack of post count) so i cant keep updating the first post

that box does look better. 65sq in of port, and the recommended port area ranges from 55 to 73 sq inches. the tuning i got was different tho. i get a tuning of 33.3 hz. you could extend the port a little to lower it some more if you wanted, as the physical port length does not need to actually be 25.5" with it bending in the back (and yes, you want it at least 5.25" from the back of the box). the physical length of the port only needs to be 20.25" for a tuning of 33.3 hz. also the volume of the box is 5.81 cubes gross volume, and 4.58 after all displacement. so your general calculations were a bit off. you're heading in the right direction tho

one sec lemme punch in the numbers

you most likely arent hearing port noise because the box is inside the trunk. building a box that is closer to the manufacturers specs will allow the sub to sound much better. a bigger port would give those subs more room to breathe. i look at an install as 80% box and 20% product. getting new subs may help a little, but you'll see much more improvement with a new box. just an example...the box for my 18's is 8 cubes net (4 cubes each), with 130 sq inches of port.

definitely check your electrical to make sure it's up to par. but these amps at .5 ohms dont put out a whole lot more power than 1 ohm. they create more heat if anything.

i used foam for my wall. took several cans. it doesnt have to completely fill the front to back to adequately seal it up. it expands a decent amount. and is very solid. i think i had about 6" deep around the sides, and maybe 3-4" on the top. much smaller space to fill. i will say this tho. i will never foam a daily driver like that again. it wasnt in there long, and it was a B***H to take out. chunks everywhere, lil foamies everywhere, and some of it is still stuck on the sides of my car and a little on the headliner.

power is not cheap. so first of all i suggest not cheaping out on anything. yes i would suggest the second battery. as well as upgrading the main battery under the hood. car on or off...unless there's an isolator, all batteries are used when the car is off. if there's an isolator...then the one that's under the hood is the one NOT being used. so you heard wrong. i havent measured...but on my explorer i think i used around 8-10 feet of it. that allowed me to route the wiring where i needed to. look around for alternators. i'd get around a 200-250 amp alternator. my 200 amp ohio gen alt cost me more than 400. i'd check companies like mechman and DC power. not sure on their pricing but dont be surprised if you spend a lil more than 400.

i would definitely not mount the speaker in the port like that. as far as the port goes, the thin port is VERY thin. you will probably get some port noise from a port that thin. i'd do the 6" x 2" port

i get slightly different numbers for tuning and net volume with those dimensions. exactly how long is the port? i have 23" for 33.08 hz tuning. that gives almost exactly one cubic foot of space of net volume. wont really be an audible difference...just curious on another note, that port is very thin. you may get some port noise with a port that thin. i'd do a 2" x 5.5" port before a 1" x 11" port. looks like the subs will be a tight squeeze in that box, as the sides are in the way of the cut out as well. i'd use 3/4" wood for the box unless you dont have enough and dont wanna buy more. a box that small doesnt really need to be 1" thick imo. with everything 3/4" thick, and those same dimensions i get almost the exact same results as you have in your post, and i'm sure the speakers will fit a lil better as well. you didnt say where this is gonna go, but can you resize the box just a tad to better fit everything?

one of the amps would feed it their rated power to operate properly. with a properly designed box, they could handle the extra power. i'd definitely build on the small side to handle the extra power as well as fitting it in the car

definitely a different way to go about the calculations. i went to check the accuracy with mine, but does yours only do aero ports? so i'll leave that up to someone else to check. and where are you from? i noticed the measurements are metric. i dno if anyone here in the states uses metric as a normal unit of measurement, so i dno how many will be able to use it with ease

yep, box program is sketchup, the box calculator is mine you can download it from the link in my sig. make sure you go to the latest link in the thread since i cant edit my original post yet.

i'd stay with the 15. it'll allow more room for a proper enclosure, and with each sub in an optimum box with the same power, the 18" wont be THAT much louder imo.