Basshead
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Posts posted by Basshead
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thanks man! always appreciate positive feedback
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there's a link for the newest update. i wish i was able to edit my first post :\ rather than having post after post of links. oh well.
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in the meantime, could you post a screen shot up of the old one with the info you entered? i may be able to point something out, whether in the old one or something i did in the new one
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damn...i'm gonna have to try to get a hold of my old one. somewhere somehow it got replaced lol. i thought i had it on a laptop, but it was the current one i was testing out : i'll check it out asap tho
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Changelog:
-Metric in millimeters and centimeters
-Changeable backgrounds and fonts. View the help window for more info.
-Individual inputs for bracing and subwoofer displacement
-User input for port thickness
-Added port ratio box
-Port area range removed
-Screen Shot button added. Will open MS paint and can save from there.
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i will say one error was pointed out to me that i didn't think would cause some problems, and it's been fixed. i also uploaded it before i put in the port ratio section. got ahead of myself fixing all the other things lol. but all is well now.
meh....i can't edit my post. here's the fixed downloads
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UPDATED!!! finally got everything worked out that i wanted, plus a neat addition or two.
***When downloading, make sure it is saved with a .exe file extension, or it will not open properly. the 'Open with...' window will pop up otherwise*** (thanks gottahavbass917 and a user from another forum)
To do this, go to the folder that the calculator is in and click tools in the toolbar at the top (click alt on the keyboard if you can't see the toolbar). Then click folder options. then click the view tab, and in the advanced settings window, there's a check box that says 'hide extensions for known file types'. Uncheck that and you will see the .uexe file extension on the calculator. Take out that U and save it (just as .exe) and it should work. Now you can go back and recheck the check box and hide known file types.
Also, should have said this from the get-go (I apologize) but thanks to Razor5070 for the help when i got stuck
Here's the new look:
In a week or so, as long as I can make completely sure all kinks are worked out, I'm going to redo the layout and upload that as another download. The original one will stay up as well, but it'll be easier to fix anything and then redo the layout and upload rather than adjusting everything to fix and then readjusting everything. It'll be more for widescreen users and everything should be accessible from the get-go.
Also, I'm going to try to get it to download as an installer rather than a .exe (or .uexe). But I'm having issues with that as of now. So the current way will still have to do.
Here's the download link to the program:
Click to download Torres' Box Tuning Calculator
Here is an alternate download in a compressed folder:
Download Compressed Calculator
***you'll need the most up to date .net framwork for this program to work. click this link to get it***
If you're .NET is up to date, and you're still having troubles opening the calculator, check to make sure it downloaded as a .exe file. It should have normally, but for some it may not. Rename it with a .exe format and it should work. Thanks to pervitizm for finding this solution.
For Mac users:
This is a windows based program, so it will not work on macs from a fresh download. You'll need to use either parallels, virtualbox, VMWare fusion, or wine.
There's port cut sheets in there, but one thing i did NOT include are cut sheets on how to cut the port if it bends. There's too many different ways to cut the sheets, and the coding to go into that would be too tedious to deal with. Maybe at another time down the road. Right now I want to get it uploaded and not have something silly holding it back. Plus, if you're building a speaker box, I'm sure you can go take some measurements in the box and see what the port should be
READ THE FAQ/HELP!!!!
I've answered questions repetitively because the help window was not read. So read that first please.
I've also included a FAQ/tip sheet with it this time around. So if you get confused with something, click there first. If you're STILL confused, send me a PM with any questions. With that being said, I'm still going to paste all the contents of the FAQ here.
Box Frequency Tuning Calculator - FAQ/Tip Guide
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1 - First and foremost, the RE calculator is *not* spot on, and is limited in design, so no, it will not match this calculator.
2 - When doing an oddly shaped box such as a fiberglass box, or you know the volume of a certain box you have in mind
that you want to build, put the net volume in the 'Desired Net Volume' box. This will bypass all dimensions entered
preventing you from having to guess dimensions to get a certain net volume and will allow you to tinker with different
port sizes and tuning. So if you know you want a box with 4 cubic feet of net volume, enter '4' into that box and it
will allow you to adjust tuning accordingly to that specific volume. Keep in mind that any displacement nor port volume
is NOT subtracted from this total. Any number in this box will override any number in the 'Desired Gross Volume' box.
3 - The 'Desired Gross Volume' box acts much like the 'Desired Net Volume' box, except all displacements are taken into
effect.
4 - If the '# of ports' box is greater than 0, that will automatically get taken into effect and the calculator will ignore the
dimensions for slot ports.
5 - The '# of Common Port Walls' box refers to how many sides of the box are going to act as sides of the port. This is
done by looking at the port head on and counting how many sides of the box that face of the port uses as the port
walls. The port inside the box has nothing to do with the common port walls. Please refer to the links below for
examples.
6 - Aero ports have a defaulted thickness of 3/16" -- couldn't decide whether to use 1/8" or 1/4" so I went in the middle.
7 - Port length uses the box wall or baffle(s) as part of the port length. So a port that is 10" long with one baffle using .75"
wood will only need to be 9.25" long since the box wall or baffle(s) will account for the other .75". If using two baffles,
then it would be 8.5" long as the baffle will account for 1.5" of port length and so on.
8 - When using multiple ports, whether they be round or rectangular ports, the port length MUST be the same for each
port. The port length does **NOT** get divided among the ports. This will affect your net volume and severely
raise your tuning.
9 - Program resolution is set to 840 pixels in width and 780 pixels in height. Try to stay within this resolution for custom
backgrounds or program may lag. Using .png files will also help prevent program lag.
10 - The extra baffle box should only have a value if you plan on using multiple baffles. Leave blank or a zero if you are
only going to use a single baffle.
11 - Regular square/rectangle boxes do not need any numbers entered into the 'Height 2' or 'Depth 2' boxes.
12 - Pressing 'Enter' will prompt the program to print.
13 - PLEASE NOTE: 'Physical port length' refers to the length of the wood itself needed to build the port. This is NOT the
same as the effective port, or the port you entered into the port length box that the box will 'see'. You measure
on the inside of the port (against the port wall) to measure the physical port, in the same way you measure down
the middle of the port to get your actual, or effective, port length.
14 - When doing an external port, the full length of the port must be entered into the port length box. Then the length of
the external port in the 'External Port' box. This way the proper port length (the Port Length box) will be used for
the equation, and the proper volume will be added to the net volume (the volume of the external section of the port)
for proper tuning.
15 - On the cut sheets of boxes with different depths and heights, you'll notice 'H1' or 'D2' next to the measurements.
These represent which dimension is which. Here are two pictures to illustrate:
Box with one height, but two different depths:
Box with two heights and two different depths:
--The following are links that illustrate how each ported box is taken into effect in the calculator (sub and port position can be upwards with the same effect):
1 - Port with 0 common walls:
2 - Slot port with 1 common wall:
3 - Slot port with 2 common walls:
4 - Slot port with 3 common walls:
--The images were made with Google Sketchup. Free to download: http://sketchup.google.com/
Should be 99% debugged (I think). But after staring at the same coding for so long, things are bound to slip by. So IF you do find something that seems out of place, PM me about it please. Only if you're certain about it. I dont want to go check something or explain how it's done several times over because it may be coded a certain way that you may be thinking differently. That'd be too tedious for me to do constantly.
Hope you guys like it the update
And if you appreciate my work, buy me a beer
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interesting enough design. but i can see port noise coming from it. may be a sufficient amount of port area, but it's so thin. if possible i'd redo the dimensions of the box to add more port area without there being too much of it. but definitely thinking outside the box
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awesome! glad you like it
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bump for a few others who may not have seen it
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i'm gettin 1.77 cubes @ 32.59 hz. one more tenth of bracing puts you at 1.67 cubes @ 33.55 hz
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thanks
pen and paper is always nice. knowing you did it right yourself0 -
thank you
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i had a thread a while ago that had a download to a box tuning calculator that i made. i've since upgraded it hardcore and would like to repost it. i cant edit my original post in the other thread which is why i'm making a new one. also since i cant edit my original post to update it, i'm linking it to SMD where the original thread is to download from. that way i can update that one which will in turn update the link to the download from here and still allow comments and questions on this forum (i hope that's all ok). if a mod would like, the other thread can be deleted if they find it to prevent any confusion. that one is pretty old tho, so probably buried tho i found it from google. anyways here's the link
Box Tuning Calculator Download
hope you guys like it
feel free to leave any questions or comments 0 -
aeros for a general rule of thumb is about 9-13 sq inches of port compared to 12-16 for slot ports.
your calculations are pretty spot on. 2.08 cubes of net volume tuned to ~32.84 hz with 14.42 sq inches of port per foot. i guessed that it was a slot port using 3 walls however. that would only effect it with about a 1 hz difference either way
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square is the same to figure net volume. but also does not need any end correction figured in. here's a link to a box tuning calculator i made in visual basic. i'm about to make a separate thread for it now
Torres' (ExpoSport) Box Tuning Calculator UPDATED 3/10 - SMD Forum
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Turn everything up and keep your hand on the volume, put on the loudest song you have and when the cone starts sounding overlapped, doubled, clangy, keep the volume full and turn down the gains until it sounds somewhat warm or neutral. Distortion sounds like the motor flapping back & forth too fast, and the cone can't stay linear, but I mean the motor will start sounding like a tin can and not bass.
Am I the only one that lives in the country?
ah shit so i've been doin it wrong this whole time?!
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do u think i would b better off going with like an xcon or something like it?
you may hear a lil difference, but a majority of the difference that you'll hear is from the enclosure as it's 80% of an install. i'd go with what memphis mzd said on port area. maybe a slightly smaller box tho, and maybe even a tad less port area per foot. tune 32-35 hz. i know you said you're jobless, but if you could get ahold of some aeros that'd be more efficient than a slot/square port and save some volume so you may be able to keep your back seats still, depending on how big the box needs to be
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Forget about the solo x : I think it's a spl competition sub, not so good for playing music, and it needs a 5000 watts amp!!!!!!!
it is, but it can be played daily as well. i had a pair at one time. but...5000 watts is WAY too much for them imo. i've seen it done from a couple people, but usually they dont take kindly to it. mine didnt (tho it may have been due to other issues)
are you able to build your own enclosure? if you can that will help knock down some of the cost and allow more money into the equipment.
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to answer this question what amp are you planning on using? for example for sundown amps you have to buy cheap rca's or you have issues!
i've heard that, but i've used several brands (including stinger) and havent had any issues with any. just saying
. i'm currently using some i made myself ftw 
and i use 8 gauge for my speaker wire. cuz all the cool kids are doin it! and cuz i had it sittin around
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if you are able to squeeze some down there, try some weather stripping. it's spongy so it can fit in tight spots. get that between the panels and the window and that should help stop the rattle. it's sticky on one side, so i'd probably try to push it in first so it doesnt stick on anything else, then start at one side and peel the paper off and let it stick
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I think to find your true frequency its trial and error as so many variables effect it. Right now mine is 44hz with my box tuning at 30hz. Say i tune my box to 35hz my frequency may shift upwards to say 50hz. Iv seen it happen like this before in many applications but it may not hold true in all cases. If you want to find your present resonance frequency find someone with a meter and run a sweep from say 80-20hz at half volume. If your using a TL itll tell you at what frequency it was loudest.
that is not the resonant frequency of the vehicle, that's just the peak frequency of the box, hence why you change tuning, your peak changes. thumpper has it right. a small sealed box. find the peak (or peaks and average them) and that'll be the vehicles resonant frequency
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imo i dont see a real point in tuning a box so low like that. unless you listen to lots of chopped and screwed music. most rap plays around the high 30's to mid 40's. tune the box to ~35 hz. i used to tune low as well...and my current setup is tuned to somewhere between 35-36 hz, and that's by far my favorite tuning frequency. i still get the low notes, and music sounds better overall. i'd especially change tuning since you say you're not happy with the way this current box sounds.
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i like these tests
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Torres Box Tuning Calculator
in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
Posted
it should do that because the calculator works within the dimensions entered. so extra baffles are 'placed' inside the box. now the differences in the 2 calculators are the port volume. i'll have to check into that. thanks for posting those