toolskizm

ya'll prob tired of this thread...so am I trust me lol. Anyway couple weeks ago I went home to install my new alternator. Got it installed (which is a BITCH in a front wheel drive Acura) and I got a new Yellow Top as it seemed it was screwed up. Did some rewiring like suggested....still didn't work. Now I was thinking...hmm maybe for some weird reason I'm losing power through the wire going from the back the car to the front. Either that or maybe I have a short in the remote wire. So, to eliminate that as a possibility, I cut some wire about a foot long. Wired it to the new Yellow Top, to both amps, and the remote (30A) switch (didn't daisy chain either). Did it and something very very strange happened...The Rockford Fosgate T20001BD went into protect mode at high volumes. This never happened before. Now in the manual it says the only reason for this is voltage drop...which it was NOT doing (I just put a new alt and battery in, and I could see the voltage) OR too low ohm level, which my subs are wired right. So this lead me to think the Fosgate is messed up?? I'm no amp expert at all, but there's a couple reasons I think this now. One, the system NEVER acted like this before this amp, even before I didn't change anything...reason I started changing stuff was kuz it wouldn't work AFTER I put the amp in. Two, the remote bass knob doesn't work on the amp and the Fosgate is a refurb. Three, I tried a Crossfire 1000 on my system a couple days ago and it worked perfect. I know it's only 1000 watts, but it's best I could find to see. So does it sound possible that maybe the Fosgate is messed up...maybe not regulating itself somehow?? I mean, I don't know if this is possible, but ever since the amp was put in my car I've been having problems. It is a refurb...and the remote bass knob light comes on, but never works...which I find kinda odd. Edit: I also have that weird popping sound coming from my subs, which I never had before this amp. I forgot to mention, I also upgraded to two 200A fuses as opposed to the 150A's I had..

Ok, so I'll try to keep this explanation short but informative. I have a JL 450/4 and Rockford Fosgate T20001BD. I have a NTB batter in the front...just regular battery. Going from that battery is two 4 gauge power wires. Those go into an isolator. From there the wries each have a 100amp fuse and run to the back of the car to a Optima Yellow Top. The Yellow Top is grounded 1ft. from itself to the car chassis. I have a remote wire going from the Head Unit to the back of the car. That runs into the JL amp and splits there and goes to the Fosgate. Ok so that's the setup, now heres the problem. Ever since I got this new Fosgate amp (previously had a JL 500/1 instead) I can hook up both my amps. they both play fine, until around volume 15 out of 35. The JL amp then cuts out and goes into mute. No warning lights on the amp come on. It just mutes all the Highs. The Fosgate amp continues to play perfectly. Now, I honestly have no clue what's going on. I can unhook the remote turn on from the Fosgate amp and the JL amp will work perfect. If I connect back, the JL amps shuts down. Also, if I hook the JL amp directly to the Yellow Top, it will work. That's the JL remote turn on to Yellow Top, Fosgate Remote to the head unit. I tried testing the voltage and it's staying at 13 when the amp cuts out. I also even tried running a new remote wire from the Head Unit straight to the JL amp. When the bass starts hitting...again it shuts off. I'm really at a loss at to what the problem is. The whole point in doing this was to try and avoid installing a relay switch as I don't want one. Would this be the only way to fix the issue? Otherwise, I have no more ideas on how I can get it to run. Strange thing is it worked perfectly with the two JL amps (450/4 and 500/1). But, for some reason with the Fosgate it's not working. Ideas PLEASE.

just out of curiosity, is there an explanation for a popping sound when I turn the amps on and off? I get a pop when my subs turn on...

HU wired off isolator is CarToys grade A installation...lol will never go there again. I'll have to order some more fuses. I may try rewiring the switch today.

mhm but the way my system is set up now did NOT fix the issue. I thought it would, but I did it and it does the same exact thing as when it was hooked to the HU. Idk, bottom line is I need an alt ne way. So I'll order that soon. But thanks for all the input guys.

I'm not sure if you got that. Or maybe I'm not understanding your reply and the reasoning. But the remote turn on is not going through the HU at all now. It's going straight from the yellow top to a switch then back to the amps. The turn on for the headunit is connected through the electrical and going to the front battery. If I misunderstood, I apologize, but it seemed like you might have missed that. That diagram I drew shows the switch which goes to the front the car. It isn't a fused switch though. The switch is totally independent of the HU...so I'm not seeing how that would be the HU. I avoided using the HU just for that reason..

Sorry, didn't see you replied. No I haven't. Like you mean hook em up and try to play the system?

here's this if needed...again my thoughts are alt, but ne way

hey guys, I haven't been on here in a while kuz frankly, getting my system to run right is kinda just pissin me off and last weekend, I pretty much didn't care and just got drunk instead. I've never had this problem before in all the systems I've had. So anyway here is what i DID try this past weekend even though I was in "not care mode" 1) unhooked the isolator and tried with both batteries, yellow top piggybacked....amp still shut off 2) unhooked yellow top and tried with just the front batt....still same problem 3)tried with yellow top and front batt piggybacked and a JBL...still the JBL cut off so in conclusion with those tests...the isolator is not the cause, the amp isn't, and the yellow top is fine? im guessing on that one Now, to clarify. I USED to have the remote wire going from the head unit, it split at the amps I installed a simple switch and am now running the remote wire from the yellow top, and yes I've tried bigger wire. Also, the gain is not up much at all...I would say 1/4 at most on the RF. If I turn it down to where it's almost off...the system will work. Otherwise, the JL will even cut out at high voltage. As for amperage...I'm not sure. I'm pretty certain it's the alternator, though I find it's really sensitive to what's going on. I mean, the amp cutting out at 13 volts just seems strange, but I guess if the amperage is too low it really doesn't matter. It still puzzles me why the JL would work better if ONLY the remote wire is connected directly to the yellow top. But not when it's ran through a switch but STILL from the yellow top. Idk, I find that odd...maybe I just don't understand the physics of it though. So my guess is it is in fact the alternator. I wanted to make sure this is the case before I threw another 300$+ on the system and that not be teh problem. So anyhow, thank you for all the input, and unless you guys have anything else to suggest, I'm going to go ahead and get the Iraggi alt.

I definitely know I need to narrow it down. If I could get a friend's amp and try it out would be really nice. As that would determine if it is for sure the amp or not. I do know for a fact there is something wrong with the amp. I know for a fact the RCA's are messed up on the board, just no one can seem to find where. The only problem I have with removing the isolator is when I first had my system the 2 JL amps 500/1 and 450/4 my car would continuously die. I mean, I would not listen to the system with the car off-only with the car on and usually driving. I would come out to my car after it sitting for maybe a day and my car wouldn't start. This was prior to Car Toys installing my isolator. Now that they installed it, I never have that trouble. But, I'm just not sure how that would work with the huge Fosgate. Granted, I can try it, but I'm not sure that I'm seeing it being the isolator. At idle without the system on, I get a 14.4 voltage in the front, 14.3 in the back. I don't know, I just need to get another amplifier in the car to make sure if it's the amp or the car wiring/voltage/alternator/whatever the hell else it might be.

You guys are probably tired of hearing about this thread, but I just observed something that I find really weird. Maybe I never took notice to this before, but anyway. Ok, so you say JL amps should cut off what, around 10-10.8. Maybe even higher right? Well surely not at 12.6? That would be ridiculous...well the amp cuts out at 12.6 and sometimes even higher voltage. So, I'm thinking maybe the amp is messed up. What you guys think? I mean, at 12.6 my lights aren't even dimming...but my amp is cutting out?!? and yes, my voltage does drop low after hitting on it for a while, so I don't doubt I'll need an alt ne way. But still...I'm thinking my amp is acting up. I had taken it to a shop because the RCA were acting funny. If you have them connected and BARELY touch them the highs will cut out. Took it to the shop, he tried to tell me it was my RCA. So a few weekends ago, I hooked up a brand new pair straight from the deck when it was out....what do you know, amp did the same thing.

I'm guessing Dominick is probably at competition along with excessive amperage? edit: woops, nevermind he just sent me a email with pricing including shipping for the alt.

Well guys, here's a quick vid I got to take this past weekend. Doesn't do the system much justice. But, I'll get some better vidz when I'm actually finished. Ordering a new alternator and replacing some wiring. It should be up soon...maybe a week or so. But, until then...enjoy this short clip. You can see the voltage dropping in the radar detector. The doors were wide open, so there wasn't nearly as much movement as when they're closed. But, like I said...just a quick vid I'll get better ones.

Well guys, thought you might want to see what I got in the car finally. After a LOT of hard work (totally dynamatted the car, custom mounted Utopia tweets in the front, etc etc) I got the subs in today and started hittin on em w/ the Fosgate T20001bd. Here's a quick pic after I got the subs in. The box is 2.25 cubic ft. per sub, tuned to 32Hz. It's not the Cadillac of Meade's, lol but it'll do for me. btw, props to Fi, Scott, Nick, everybody on the "team." I played the subs for about 15 minutes and I'm ready to go jam em tomorrow hehe.

Just wondering..and sorry if this has been asked before, which I'm sure it has somewhere. I ordered my two Q 12's. The BL and Q are the same price, same RMS handling, same size, same enclosure recommendations (aside from tuning which is a little different) . Just curious as to how they perform differently? Or is the difference mostly to being able to customize the BL more? Say putting them in a 1.8 cube box with 2k watts ported to 32 would having a BL or Q make much of a difference?

could I not just ground the second batt to the chassis? But, also wouldn't replacing two 4 gauge for power with one 0/1 gauge kind of be pointless? I mean, wouldn't 2 4 gauge allow for the same amount of current as one 0/1? The car is a 2006 Acura RSX. Also, which alternator you guys think I'd be ok with? I want the system to run at its full potential...but saving money is kool too lol. 180 amp / 80 amp idle $289.00 200 amp / 70 amp idle $309.00 180 amp / 100 amp idle $379.00 200 amp / 90 amp idle $399.00 Would it be necessary to get the additional lifetime warranty for 99.00?

As for pulling the isolator...I'd rather not. They hadn't installed an isolator before. I used to have a JL 500/1 w/ two 10w3v3 and the 450/4. The 500/1...doesnt pull nearly as much as the Fosgate. I was always having problems with my car dying. So, they put the isolator in. Now, FINALLY this makes since to me. I was just driving to Wal-Mart to get a few things and pick up a multimeter because I don't have one in Austin. Well I jammed hard on the way there with my lights on...JL hooked direct of course. Everything worked perfect. Got the meter and tested...the Optima was at 10.8 with the car off. So, I left and started jamming again...went somewhere where there werent alot of people and pulled over, put it in park. While it was hitting I put the meter at the switch. The batt will be at 12.3-6 or so when the bass isn't hitting. When it hits, it drops to 10 something. Ok, so I took off again and FINALLY with the JL amp hooked directly it shut off on a high bass note. So it makes since to me now...it isn't working right either way...just better when hooked direct. I will check the fuses tomorrow when I can see. You're suggesting running TWO 1/0 gauge from the front batt to the back?? I had considered getting a 200A Iraggi alternator...I'd like to avoid it if possible, but idk what you think? If I do big 3, I'd like to almost get a new alt as it's gonna be hell to do big 3 with this car..the engine compartment is tiny. What size fuse do you think I need?

The second batt is grounded to the chassis about a foot from itself...two 4 gauge wires. I haven't tried replacing the isolator. I'm definitely never going back to Car Toys kuz of what they did to the car previously. They'd prob charge me 500$ or some ridiculous to change the isolator.

Ok, thanks for the replies guys. I'm really wanting to get this taken care of so I appreciate all the input. As for gauge wire...I have two 4 gauge power wires running from the front of the car to the rear...each has a 100 amp fuse. Gauge wire on the remote wire...it's small probably 16-18. I tried some 12 and it still cut out. The isolator...I'm not sure the brand, but it's a 200amp iso. (I didn't install that...it was from my previous system that Car Toys installed...which was a mistake). Yes, if I pull the Fosgate off the JL works. But, the JL also works with BOTH amps hooked up to the Optima if the JL is directly hooked. So if the Fosgate is pulling too much from the electrical, why does it work that way? It's still coming from the same exact place...

that right there could be your problem...thems amps werent made for 10v. gechur voltage up by either lowering the wattage or doin something to your lectrical. how big is your alternator? The alt is not big enough. Ok, I understand my voltage is low...but I dont understand why the amp works when it's hooked up to the battery directly...but not when it's run through either a remote switch or the Head Unit remote turn on. I mean, even if I just run the wire through the switch and not even ground the switch....so pretty much like it's direct. The amp still cuts out. Could it be kuz the wire is long and the voltage already being low...when it runs through the wire and gets back to the amp, the voltage is too low?

13.3-13.4 I hooked the amp up direct last night just to see what would happen. I drove around and tested it..jammed hard. Neither one of the amps cut out. When I got back, I checked the voltage on the Yellow Top and it was down to 10.8...the voltage changed from 13.something to 10.8 at the isolator. Front battery was at 13 something. I actually just drove from Houston to Austin with the JL hooked up direct and the Fosgate on the switch. It played fine the whole way and I was pushing the system pretty hard for probably 2-2.5 hours. I don't know, if you need any other info to help me out...let me know. I really wanna get this fixed. Hopping in the backseat with an allen wrench every time I leave the car isn't exactly how I like my stuff set up. lol

The green power light is the only light that's on. If the amp is in mute for long enough the light will go off, and there will be no lights on. Then when the bass lets up, the amp will come back on. It works fine if it's hooked directly to the Yellow Top. I just ran a damn relay switch hooked everything up. The amp STILL does it. I honestly think there's something wrong with the amp. This is really really odd. I've tried testing the voltage on everything...just about every wire and wire configuration possible. The only way I've found the amps to work together when jamming is when the JL is directly to the Optima...the Fosgate will play no matter what I do. It doesn't care at all, but the JL does. I even tried running wires from the front battery...same thing, JL doesnt work. Heres what's screwed up too...The relay is hooked to the Yellow Top. The JL doesn't work through the relay, but if you take it out the relay and put it direct to the same battery...it works. Now, I thought it may have been a short in the wires ran or something. So I hooked some up temporarily in plain sight...still the JL amp cuts out. I'm really at a loss...

Thanks guys. Yeah, I'll get some more pics and videos as soon as I get my JL amp back. Right now I'm runnin Fi subs only lol. No highs or mids. The JL amp was messed up last year when a prick dropped a set of weights on top my false floor...and screwed up the RCA's in the amp. I had it ghetto rigged, zip tied the RCA's so the would be stationary and they worked fine.....until I got the Fi's and they rattled the hell out the amp and would shut the highs off lol. So anyway, it's in the shop right now....hopefully get it back soon, if not I'll get another one.

my god, it HITS lol. I used to think my L7's in my truck hit hard. Had em in 2.67 cubes at 33.6 hz on a KX1200.1...buuuut wow. Fi FTW. I'll get some vidz up when I get my JL amp back for the highs. I'll have it in tomorrow probably. I'm very very satisfied w/ these subs. All I need now is a high output alternator lol. I'm getting dimming w/ just the Fosgate. The radar detector showed the voltage dropping to 11 something (that poor little thing was flopping around like a psychotic fish..gotta find a way to secure it) and that's with the regular batt in the front and Yellow top in the back.

I had two JL 10w3v3 setup on a JL 500/1 in some sealed fiberglass boxes...and yet again for the second or third time I was unsatisfied with JL. So they're on ebay right now and I was turned to Fi. I'm liking what I've been seeing, and am really considering the Q 12's. I'm putting them in a tiny ass RSX lol. I plan to fiberglass and port them. Probably 1.8 cubes tuned to 32hz. My main question is the amp. I was hoping to go with a RF T20001BD if I can fit that huge thing in my car...I'll have to do some measuring to make sure. Anyway, if I did the T20001BD, you think I'll need the BP power option on the Q's? If you have any other input on what I'm doing, lemme know. I'm up for constructive criticism.