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BILTD

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Posts posted by BILTD

  2. Posted

    Pre-order? Link to " blueprint drivers"? 6-8 weeks should be enough time to properly plan my system. I've been reading about IB HT for a week now...sounds like what I want! Your speakers seem to top the list as the one's to obtain if your're going to do it.

    We do not do pre-orders, never have..never will.

    I see no point in taking somebody's money and making them wait for months on end to help pay for product that doesn't exist, that just screams "I do not have enough money to order 100 pieces from China so I will discount it to raise capital to pay for it before it even exists, and if it comes in with everything messed up I am screwed."

    ..granted we actually build our own stuff here so it is definitely different.

    Still absolutely refuse to do it though.

    :lol2::rofl2:

    Shame 99% of people see past it.

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  5. Posted

    Even if it has cooling it will have the P-Chamfeur. It'll be a FL BTL.

    Naturally the BTLs are pretty neutral sounding driver at low volumes, cold and thin. Turn it up and its a different story. Thats just the general tonality of the driver.. I prefer them in larger boxs, dont like 'forcing' it to do the lows in strangled tiny enclosures. It requires alot more delicacy in setup. 4.5 cubes net tuned to 28Hz will be a total beast on the lows, and still slap like crazy on the uppers. Thats my personal sweet spot for a BTL15". Smaller just tightens in up and makes it sound harsh and aggressive. Cant comment on the SA drivers as i've never heard them.

    3.5 cubes will work fine with 3k a piece, just keep an eye on the subsonic filter and of course your voltage. And if you dont plan on attending any sound offs and just want to murder the lows tune from 28-30hz..

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  8. Posted

    Looks good... except for the fact that you would actually need around 257.69 in^2 of port.. and you have almost 1/3 of that.

    If you were to triple your port you could expect more output.. right now your essentially putting the woofers into a leaky sealed box

    peepwall.gif

    I was recommend 120 sq inch of port, and I am using 100 sqinch. Will be trying other options thou....Also how did you came to the result of 257.69 sqinch ???

    Also Steve Meade is using 150 sq inch of port on a 20 cuft enclosure. So I designed it on its line !!!!

    For two 18's?

    or is that each 100 in^2?

    Now if it's 200 in^2 total then you're a little low seeing how 260 is the minimum recommended port area. .. but if it's 100 for both woofers then you're seriously choking the woofers off.

    The "rule-of-thumb" about for every cube you multiply it by 16 in^2 is extremely inaccurate and deplorable at best.

    Vance Dickason's method of obtaining port area,

    VntFrm1.gifVntFrm2.gif

    dv - is the required diameter of the port in inches. Fb - is the tuning frequency of your enclosure in Hertz.

    Vd - is the volume displaced by the driver (in cubic meters) traveling through it's full excursion (peak-to-peak). To figure out Vd for a speaker, find the Sd value for your driver in the table below, and multiply that number times the Xmax (in meters) of your speaker.

    peepwall.gif

    It was on my recommendation.

    We've used SMDs and infact most AA/Fi drivers from 6-10sq.in per cube and never had issues. Of course if we arent limited on volume we'll use more port, but it also dicates the speed in which the driver unloads NOT just air velocity on port noise

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  11. Posted · Edited by BILTD

    What makes me laugh is few extreme or super street SPL setups never got the best of the old BTL, so needless to say the N3 is complete overkill.

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  12. Posted · Edited by BILTD

    If you just add a woofer you will be replacing everything soon. You need to take a step back and really think about your goals.

    Having and using a lot of power is NOT a goal...unless you are an idiot or are lacking in manhood and need to brag about something. Having enough power and subwoofer to get to the volume you want is a complete different story.

    Yeah, thanks smartest guy on the world, yes I really need your answer as a blind man sight. :fing34:

    No worries, I will buy one more extra battery, high output alternator, 50mm2 cables, but I think, that I will buy one another sub, this is DD Z95 15", because it can handle more than 4kW power daily, and is more loud than BTL or SMD. I'll wired it on 1 ohm. That is true, that is very expensive, but is one of the best. Yes and one informations, DD Z2-lv is low voltage technology amp, thaht mean that it work from 8.5-14.8V, and it has on 12V around 6kW rms. :wub:

    I think that is meaningless running that amp on 4 ohm. If I think run it on 4 ohm, I will buy cheap amp with 2kW on 4 ohms, and than run sub which can handle daily around 2kW... :lol2:

    No doubting your install abilities, but till you try a BTL or SMD thats a pretty brave comment :)

    Edit, which also makes smilie knowing how many DD dealers we have who switched to Fi or AA never look back, not least with the recone prices..

    For the price of a DD Z you could have couple of BTLs or an SMD.. Its all in Dragos hands if he wants to step to the darkside till then you will just be comparing apples and oranges, nothing more nothing less.

    Good day :)

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  19. Posted

    Hey guys,

    Interested to see your bracket for the 4.3L Astro. Kryptonite, not forgot about you just been busy with the new-born. I have front end stripped out and am working on adding a 3rd alt to my 97 Astro. Will be going next to the OE one, removed what was left of the AC setup i.e. the AC Evaporator. Need to separate the fan housing so I still have blower just need to take that off the evaporator fitting.

    I already have a bracket lined up but I'm really interested to see the DC Power Dual alt kit for the 4.3L GM motors. I know without a shadow of a doubt I will be cutting some of the fire wall and taking a large hammer to it, but I'm sure with a little persuasion we can get it in.

    Look forward to seeing the pics :)

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