ToXicFrOgXx

The final product. The box is so tight getting in the trunk I don't think I'll be able to put any carpet on it. Lol.

NOW THATS A PORT!!!!!

IT IS REALLY HARD TO FIND 8" SCHEDULE 40 PVC!!!! We got the whole box assembled and the sub hole cut out and then went inside to find a place that sold the PVC that was needed for the port. I didn't realize it would be so hard to find it locally. After about 50 calls to ever plumbing, hardware, and specialty place in the area we found a store that had 8" schedule 40 in stock. We jumped in the car and raced down there. Only to find that they closed 5 minutes before we got there!!!!! So we had to go back the next morning and get the pipe when they opened. Test fit before the pipe was put in the box. The cuts off a lot of the sub hole. The sound makes it into the cabin of the car with no problems. Very tight fit. Lol.

Cutting out the false floor. Used the carpet out of the trunk as a template. Worked great. Had to cut it in half to get it to fit in the trunk. And decided to take out a couple inches to allow wires into the spare tire location for the amps. All pieces cut out. Laid out the sub gasket and the only thing we could find that was 8" in diameter to see how things would fit. Theres a little gap on the front of the box that was because we didn't account for the slanted top. But wood glue sealed it enough to keep it strong. I didn't do a double baffle because I wanted this to be as light as possible. I also didn't brace the box yet. Something I will be doing in the near future.

After running that box for a little while I wanted to give the BL a home that it could actually enjoy. So new plans were made. False floor, slanted box with an 8" aero port, take out rear stage, add distribution block to relay, and actually put terminals in my box. (My friends always gave me shit for running my sub wires through the port but I knew that the boxes were not permanent.) By taking out the rear speakers it gave me about an extra 2-3 inches in height and also about an extra 5-6 inches depth. Well worth it. Awesome sketch of the box. And BL

Incredible.

I changed the amp board to an very simple amp rack so that the BL had a little more space to fit in the trunk. So I stacked them on top of each other and also added a relay to run the remote wire off of the battery instead of my head unit and daisy chaining the amps together. Also at this point in my install I had been running Alpine Type R 6.5 Comps up front and 6x9 coaxials in the back. Getting the 6x9's in the back was pretty tough due to the mounting of the stock 6x9's and had to drill new holes and use double stick tape to get them to stay. Lol. No pics of that. It was done last year some time. All Type R speakers were getting about 80 WRMS from my JL JX360 and have also sounded great.

Shortly after getting the alternator and sound dampening in the BL 15 came in. Totally unexpected and totally made my day. The BL came in before I had a box made so I took the next day off to make a box. It became very rushed because I was so excited to hear the new sub. Turned out that I made the box to big and had to cut the front down by 4 inches and also bevel off the bottom corners A LOT... I wont ever make that mistake again but it left me with a box that was running 3.5 cubes at 37hz. For how badly it was made it sounded good. Had to set the SS at 35hz for the sub's sake but the BL totally kicked ass!! Even in that shitty box. This was what it looked like before I had to cut the front off.

While waiting for the BL to show up I added some NVX sound dampening to the trunk lid to help with rattling and sound control. There are two layers and I still don't think it does anything. Lol.

After making that box for the Type R and realizing that there was a lot more to car audio than I thought I started to do more research on the internet to see what I could find about how to get better performance out of speakers and amps and such. Thats when I found SSA. Thats when I found the FI BL subwoofer and fell in love. After saving for a few months I ordered a Singer high output alternator along with a BL 15. The alternator got to me first. The new alternator put out 180 amps vs my stock 80 amp alternator. This gives me the power to sustain long bass notes but I still don't have enough reserves in my stock battery to keep up with all the hard hitting bass notes. That will be fixed soon. Singer alternators are awesome.

The space available is very limited. Lol. I've made a few changes to my amp rack since those pictures. I will post some soon. The wiring was a total mess at that point in my install...

I will be posting more pictures to catch everything up to my current system whenever I have time.

After I ran that for a while I wanted to move my amps around. Up until this point I had the amps screwed to the sub box and grounded to a hole at the top of my trunk. It worked but needed to be changed. So I made a quick amp rack. Basically a board with all my amps mounted to it. Lol...

After I had that sub for a few months I decided to upgrade to an Alpine Type R 12" powered by Hifonics BRZ 1200.1D on 900 WRMS which was cool. I dropped the Type R into that prefab box seen earlier and let it be. This was before I knew how much the box actually made the sub preform. After looking around on the internet and playing around with my small Logitech subwoofer I decided to make a new box. I made it out of particle board because it was cheaper. It looks a little ruff but sounds Awesome. I used the RE Box Calculator for that one. Very ruff. First sub box ever. Lol. How the sub sat in the box before it was sealed up. Everything I add to my car is done without modifying anything major. This box slid right in my trunk with no prblems. It was 3 cubes tuned at 33hz. Or at least thats what the RE box calculator said.

This was my very first system. I purchased it from car toys for WAY to much because I had no clue what I was doing. I also got a Kenwood deck. I beleive the KDC956. Sounded good for what it was on 280 WRMS and got me HOOKED on sound. The front piece was made because there were so many holes in the box from taking the sub in and out that it wouldn't hold anymore. Lol. I think it looks nice for a prefab.

You really should get your hands on a Q driver. You only live once to hear such sexiness. Oh dont worry. I wanna use all different kinds of drivers. Ive only been into car audio for a little over a year now and am still learning a bunch of stuff. After using the BL I could not even imagine what a Q sounds like being designed specifically for SQ application.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Just to throw this out there, when I was searching for a new sub and came upon the BL and Q it took a while for me to decided. I wanted SPL plus good SQ as well. I finially decided on the BL15 and let me say, Ill never look back. Amazing output and sound quality on 1200wrms. I just made a new box running a little big but sounds awesome. 5.8 ft^3 tuned at 33hz.

Bassink recomended the Torres box calculator to me a while ago and Ive had really good luck using it.

I can try and help you with this box if you still need it. Im not a box guru but Ive had some good luck with different box calculators and just made a box for my BL15 these last 2 days that sounds pretty good. Do you know how many ft^3 you wanna get out of those demensions?? Looks like Fi recomends 1.5 - 2.5 for the BL12.

I agree. My BL sounds amazing, I couldn't imagine what a sub actually made by FI for an SQ application could sound like.

On ebay you can find Cadence wire for a pretty good price. I've used their wire for everything and havent had any problems.

Is 5ft^3 net to much for a BL 15 running on 1200wrms?? My plan is to make a box with an 8" or 10" PVC aero port. If Im correct... 1. With 5ft^3 net and an 8" port would give me 10 in^2 of port area per ft^3 box area. 10 in^2 seems to low... 2. With 5ft^3 net and a 10" port that would give me 15.7 in^2 per ft^3 box area. 3. But FI recomends running 4ft^3 box and with an 8" port that would give me 12.5 in^2 per ft^3 box area. If I tune my box at 32hz which option would work the best for daily use on all types of music?? Any help would be aewsome.

I gotcha. Well. I'll run some designs through a calculator and see what I can come up with. thanks dude!!

1200 wrms. Might upgrade to 2000 sometime down the road.