Jump to content

InfinitePeace

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    44

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by InfinitePeace

  3. Posted

    Eh, well see.. because of the design of my trunk, I'm going to want the extra output of the 12's. I'm going to make them work somehow, just was curious if anyone had any creative ideas that I hadn't thought of. Late last night I actually was wondering if there was enough room to maybe remove the false wall and fabricate an amp rack over the fuel tank. I just wonder if it's safe to put electronic equipment that close to a fuel tank, though if anything serious ever did happen I don't know that it being there or a foot away would really matter, plus it would be separated by a thick piece of mdf. Dunno... if there's enough room it could be a really good idea and put them out of the way.

    0

  4. Posted

    Ya, the shop that did my alternator said they would make it fit one way or another, as long as it wasn't taller than my current battery it for sure would not be an issue. It's all coming together now. :)

    Too bad while they were in there they found that power steering problem was worse than I thought. There goes another grand...

    0

  5. Posted

    The dimensions are ALMOST Identical, the Powermaster being fractions of an inch smaller on each side. Theres already a strap going over it, my question is, is that okay, with that same strap there holing down a slightly smaller battery, should I still be okay?

    0

  6. Posted

    I posted this on another forum and just wanted to repost it here to add to this discussion.

    I bought a 180a from Ohio General and they told me more than once, upgrade to the largest size of cable that you can for everything more or less EXCEPT the Alt to Batt Pos. They told me, which I confirmed multiple times, on a short run, 4awg (at least for upwards of 200a) is plenty and ideal; they don't recommend larger than that in that location because the size of the post on the alternator is too small to bind to the larger wire; ergo because of the size difference, the post on the alt heats up too much and can overheat it. That was their recommendation and I'm going to have the shop that is doing it for me talk to them and confirm with a detailed description of my specific engine.

    The other interesting thing they said was do NOT fuse that wire. I confirmed this as well, DO NOT fuse this wire because if for some reason it does indeed blow, the alternator will no longer see the battery and think that it's dead, so it will kick into high gear and stay that way until it burns up because it will never see that battery again until you've changed that fuse, thus leaving you with a dead battery and a burnt out alternator.

    0

  7. Posted

    You're short on space.. Smaller is better.

    It would be going up front, I mean in terms of how well it will sit in the battery tray. I mean, batteries are heavy so I doubt it will move much as it is, but I just want to make sure a fraction of an inch here and there that its not going to slide around.

    0

  8. Posted

    the powermaster will have a bit more power than the kinetik when I got my D2400 it was between that and the hc1400

    If that is truly the case then it's virtually no contest given that the powermaster is also 80-100 cheaper, and you're saying it will give me a bit more power? Sounds like a win-win... but am I right with the dimension assumptions, the powermaster is a hair smaller in each dimension, that won't be a problem will it?

    0

  9. Posted

    If you're worried about hearing the low end in the car, I would vote for the ported option, and use an Aero port up to the deck and into the car.

    I have never tried that with a ported box. . .Bandpass box, but not ported. Seems like that would cause a heavy emphasis at the port tuning frequency in the cabin of the car. Anyone actually ported a standard vented box through a rear deck?

    Not saying it won't work, just curious. . .

    This was also my concern, and I won't have room for a ported box unless I use one speaker. Now again, there will be holes in the rear stage, and if it comes down to it, well make those holes bigger and just cover them in one giant mesh or vent if need be. I'm hoping that 2 4' holes and a 10" hole (or at least the but out diameters for said speaker sizes) will be enough. Plus I don't know much about bandpass, and bandpass enclosure recommendations weren't even covered in the sticky; I want the cleanest possible sound, I'm more concerned with what the smallest sealed box size I can use for a 12 (or two in a single chamber) would be for me to be happy, or what do I can for the 3" or so increase by shooting for about 1.1-1.2 after disp?

    0

  11. Posted

    To the OP man if you think your worried try powering up a system with a 3000D LOL!! I have a supra so my electrical is similar to your SC, stock alt. is 110amps. Having a hard time as it is with everything set low low low. So yes man UPGRADE IF YOU CAN! And yeah I can already tell once I upgrade the stock alt and battery they'll be an improvement. Sometimes I notice I cannot get enough power any longer that I just have to stop playing my system because my subs will start quieting down from insufficient power which isn't good. So be sure to upgrade.

    And I'm with you on battery weight, trying to minimize anything I can if possible, I've heard that extra batteries make your alternator work harder which is bad. Is this true? But I'm guessing since many of you recommend getting more than one battery, an aftermarket one should be heavily built enough to handle the extra load right? Also to the OP have you ever considered running a smaller battery, like the ones they use for cars that track. The batteries that weight like 6-15 pounds, you could use that for your main for your car. And then the heavy fat battery you could put in the rear or front so that you won't gain too much mass.

    I appreciate the insight, however I don't want to do more than one battery, as the trunk will be cramped enough as it is. That's why I'm going to buy the best battery I can for the front... so far the Powermaster 2400 appears to be almost a perfect fit which is what I was asking. Now someone is suggesting Kinetik and I'd just like to know what makes one of these "Car Audio" batteries better than another? Stinger makes some too... whats different about those?

    0

  14. Posted

    Wow.. not one idea? I see the Fi reps post here all the time. Must I be running 15 subs to pique some interest?

    Really I'd just like to know what's the smallest box I can run and be happy.. site says .8 is the lowest without displacement, I'd just like to know what the extra .3 per driver gets me if I give it to them, as someone recommended 1.1-1.2? Sealed of course...

    0

  15. Posted

    Okay. I haven't had time to sit down and measure what's actually under the hood, but provided this information is accurate, interstate recommends this battery for my car;

    http://www.interstatebatteries.com/estore/...nk%7C1&js=1

    Length: 11 inches

    Width: 6.88 inches

    Height: 8.75 inches

    So, if that information is accurate, than the D2400 would be almost a perfect fit at; 10.24" L x 6.65" W x 8.31" H; Would it not? Are there any other size constraints to take into a account?

    That said, as for Big 3 while I'm in there, is 2awg enough or do I HAVE to use 0; Over such a short distance, would I really see a difference? I have 6 feet of extra 0, but more of the 2 and I just want to know if I'd be okay with 2?

    0

  17. Posted

    Ya.. the alternator should be here any day, it was supposed to ship from Ohiogen on Friday. I'm going to get that in first and then throw everything in. A battery is an easy thing to change, this one is almost brand new. Maybe it's not the best, but I'm also not going to be listening to music full blast all day or am I going for all out SPL, or listening with the engine off or all the way up at idle. I'm investing way too much cash to be stupid about it... so I'll give it a shot and buy another battery later I think. Or maybe right now, hell if I know, let me check my account once all the other crap is ordered. lol.

    0

  18. Posted

    The Plot thickens.

    So, I tore out the false wall and sure enough, there is a fuel tank behind it. Not just part of the fuel tank, but the entire fuel tank. Thus, there will be no part of the enclosure mounted next to or above it... in fact the factory 10 damn near touches the thing, so anything I do will have to pretty much be in front of the factory false wall leaving it intact.

    We have a couple ideas, from mounting one amp on the rear wall of the trunk and another off to the side, to stacking them and placing the sub box next to it. Add in the added challenge of maintaining use of the spare tire. It's going to be a challenge, we've explored different rack ideas and modular installation thoughts. As for only running 1 12", I've considered it... with the steel back plate on the trunk, I just don't know how much output I would really get from it. 2 Sealed q' @ about .9-1.0 a piece is what we're shooting for I believe. Unless you can talk me into 1 ported 12, but we both pretty much agree that being that I'm going for LSQ, but not at the price of non-existent output in a challenging car... I figure 2 sealed would make up the extra SPL while still keeping the best SQ I can.

    Unless someone here has personally heard one of these drivers, sealed vs ported in the same car with the same power and can compare notes with me and give me a real idea of the difference in SPL with respect to how much SQ I'd be sacrificing, that would be immensely beneficial.

    If the Official Fi guys would like to chime in here..... They have yet to answer an e-mail...

    0

  19. Posted

    Car: 95' Lexus SC400.

    Driver: 1 or 2 Q's. 12s?

    Here's the deal, I'd love to do 2 12" Q's in about 2.8 cubes sealed or so. If I can make it fit. OR, I can do 1 12" Q and port it, but at what cost to SQ if the box is built properly? 1 Ported would yield a slightly smaller box if space is as much of an issue as it could potentially be once I tear out the false wall.

    The problem lies in that there is a Factory 10 and 2 4" in the rear deck, I think. 10 for sure, not 100% on the size of the mids there. The rear wall is steel with the gas tank there as well. Again, I have not had time to tear this out but I know there is at least some room in there because I've seen pic after pic of people putting 2 12's or even 4 10's there, granted the 4 10's occupied most of the trunk by extending the box well past the rear of the trunk opening. I'd LIKE to maintain access to my spare tire IF possible. Now, I can remove the factory 10 and mids to open up a lot of the rear stage, I just don't know if that will be enough. A lot of people have said that it does make a difference. But I'd like to know what you guys think or what you'd do.

    Power wise I've been looking at the Sundown 1000 and 1500 depending on driver choice. I don't need to win competitions, but I'd like to actually hear the speaker, otherwise whats the point in spending the cash to put it in? I don't want to sacrifice SQ but if porting is the way to go and having it still sound good, why not? I've heard of people porting through the rear stage, but how exactly? If the port is too long it screws up the sound, no? I could maybe mount 2 10's to the rear stage but how much would that jeopardize the integrity of that part of the car as is, plus I'd like to not modify more than I have to. A custom speaker box can be removed if ever need be... cutting out extra metal can't really be put back. Another option is putting everything on the floor of the trunk and leaving the false wall intact and factory as-is, which would lose me access to the spare tire. Another is fabricating a mounting plate to place in front of the false wall to mount the amps to vertically, and then just fabricating a normal box for whichever drivers, but would that sheet of mdf block the bass even more?

    Any thoughts would be helpful. I'm leaving now to go take everything apart and see what I have to work with. Alternator is ordered and I'm about ready to do this, but I just don't know what's the best option.

    I know there are many cars that have this steel wall problem, and I guess I'd just like to hear from those that have dealt with it, even if you are unfamiliar with my specific vehicle.

    0

  20. Posted

    Man that sucks. =/

    I don't know what I'll do yet. I guess I can replace the battery. I really don't want to have 2 batteries if I can help it. It's more weight and space is already an issue, I'll be lucky if I can fit both 12's in there; apparently the false wall is hiding my gas tank as well which until recently I was unaware was part of what occupied that space. I've seen 4 10's fit in this car so I have to believe it's possible. I guess well see when I actually have time to take it apart.

    0

  21. Posted

    They are all about the same price...

    The OZ I can get here when I order the sundown for 280ish, The Type X's are 350, and the Hertz I can get through a guy on the caraudio forums that gets them locally for a good price @ 299. So, it's a difficult decision. The big problem is I've not heard any of them nor can I. I got a lot of recommendations on CAF for the OZ's, caraudio.com forums all praise the hertz, and type X's are a grab bag, but no one has anything bad to say. So, I'm torn.

    0

  22. Posted

    That's the plan, just waiting to get the time to look in the trunk and see if I have room for two, then I'd get the 1500 to push both.

    Also have to make a decision on the front stage, going back and forth between Hertz, the OZ elites, and Alpine Type X pro. Once I figure all that out, I'll order everything.

    0

  23. Posted

    Sigh. Everyone said I was crazy for spending this much because you can "get a system for so much less", well it's these kind of things that make it expensive, the things you don't think about, that no one thinks about, including myself. When this is all said and done I will have spent 800 without labor on just my electrical system. =/

    0

  24. Posted

    you can get powermaster from Jegs www.jegs.com or summit racing www.summitracing.com

    personaly Id get the biggest you can afford and fit

    lol. I had a feeling you were going to say that. Someone said D2400 earlier. This is where I'm going to sound stupid. I see 12V and 16V, what's the difference other than voltage, obviously. But what does that mean to me?

    0

  25. Posted

    Okay, where is a good place to get said powermaster? My current Interstate battery is pretty large, physically.. so I don't THINK size should be an issue, but I'll take measurements and then what, just buy the biggest one I can? Do I need to buy a specific size so it fits snugly in the tray, or should I be more concerned about "electrical" size?

    0
×