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Posts posted by SpeakerBoy

  1. I was interested in doing a three way in my next vehicle because I am getting the hang of my two way and the only real complaint I have is overall output and midbass impact. I wanted to do a dayton reference 10 at my hip, reference 6.5 forward in the door and a dayton silk dome on the dash. I'm going to pick up a ppi 900.4 and two taramps 250x4's because they were tiny and I loved mine (well mostly, the knobs are tacky) and a pair of mini dsp's. Sticking with a single eighteen on 1500rms until I finish my front stage, I'm okay with lowend til I get more musical up front.

    It just seems like a great way to use the doorspace, and looks clean to me.

  2. Epsoidis or ellipsoidos or something like that


    I had it bookmarked but I guess it was on my android. It was at the very least an interesting read up (at least to me) about how angling the different drivers helped improve the stage in the oem three way.

    midbass fired at the hip, midrange forward in the door slightly angled, and the tweeter at the a pillar angled slightly more


    Billy Jack, find it on Google and link me if you can, I tried for two hours and ran out of keywords to try.

  3. Does anyone know the name of the three way system design employed by volkswagen with the midbass at your hip, the mid at the front of the door and the tweets in the pillar?


    Ellipsoidos or something, I lost my bookmark to the write up and I'm clueless as to where I found it

  4. Is there any correct port orientation in an suv for sub up/port back such as sub left side up, port passenger side back or sub passenger side up port drivers side back?

    I'm building a new box when taxes come in and I'd like to get the most out of the design. My current box is sub up port firing to the side of the vehicle on the passenger side partially obscured by the wheel hump; I feel like this affects response a bit.

    In particular, would I lose anything with the sub centered in the box? I think that orientation looks the best.

  5. You will NOT hear a difference from 1500w to 2000w.


    My box for my Fi 18 is 9.5cu@27hz and I'm very content with it on 1500rms. My next upgrade is going to be 7k rms in a smaller enclosure.

    It takes a significant amount of power to hear a difference. In a perfect world, DOUBLE the power is +3db which is just enough to be able to even notice. You'd need 3k+ to do that. Build a new box, focus on a great huge ass port with  decent enclosure volume and that'll tell you whether it's time for a system upgrade or not.

    Oh and, don't use the term box rise. It doesn't mean what you may think it does and isn't really relevant in this situation. You're playing music, every note is going to fluctuate impedance. If you were building a burp box for one frequency it'd be slightly more relevant to measure.

  6. 7 hours ago, Randal Johnson said:

    What do you plan to run for midrange ?? If you are using 12s for midbass, I'm Shure something will be needed in the midrange area.

    I was going to use a dayton amt pro, which is a massive amt that digs pretty low for a tweet. Like 800hz 


    I was gonna try 1k to begin with. I could try a three way once I get more processing power but as of right now I'm limited to two way.

    Look, if I can get punch you in the chest midbass with less than twelves, I'm all for it, saving the legroom and all. Are you suggesting a ported ten or something of that nature? 



  7. What I want for my doors is beyond my fabrication capabilities, so I'm considering looking for a fabricator in the chicagoland area to do them up for me. I was hoping you guys could give me an idea of what to expect it to cost, as well as throw me some names of reputable shops.

    I'm going to have them put 12's in my doors. I'm going to try a two way with the Dayton AMT-Pro's.

    I'm not opposed to working with someone from the board either!

    I sent a few emails to places I found on Google, but not many reviews to be seen.

    Thanks guys. 


  8. Two motors lets you use a smaller box than one motor.


    Go with the fifteen in an optimal enclosure and call it a day. You're not sounding like you're willing to go the extra mile to trunk an eighteen. 


    You literally have the dimensions at hand to calculate box size, why did you post here instead of just multiplying the dimensions and dividing by 1,728


    The SSA Tech team is a band of the most helpful posters, it's not a job title. They are the boards most knowledgeable and trustworthy posters. Wouldn't it be easier for you to learn this basic calculation so you know how to double check your builders work to make sure you really got what you paid for. 

    Even if your builder does all the work for you, still no reason to ask that question here. You couldve done (32x32x18)/1728 and had your answer in much less time than it took to post that. 


    When trunking a large woofer, you need to take into account giving the woofer enough space to breathe in the trunk so, space between the cone and trunk lid. For an 18, something like 6-9"

    Decide your goals first, don't just buy something to say you have it.

  9. (2) PSI 18" PR's and my BTL18. As soon as I figure out how to calculate the tuning I'm ordering the PR's. I figure I can just add mass til it sounds right but I kinda wanna know what's going on.


    WinISD says 650g (not sure if that's each or total) and has a curve I think fits what I'm looking for, don't know how to factor in cabin gain in relation to the graph but it slopes down til about 35 then rises back up til 26hz where it begins to drop off. Mid 20's is what I want to emphasize with less pronounced upper 30's-40's. I just want some trunk back, not to mention it looks sexy.

    I can upload the winisd plot if it means anything.


    I've heard rumors Fi makes PR's? Only going with the PSI's because they were easy to find, not too expensive, and I can get blank dustcaps. They seem beefy enough for this build.

  10. I'm having trouble getting the right mass to tune a PR enclosure

     I got ~1200 grams when I used a calculator online but 158 grams when I used the mass of the air in the port as my starting point. I feel like i'm missing something.

    i'm aiming for 8cu @ 26hz with a single 18" and two 18" PR's

    What do I need to do to get the correct calculation? The reading seems straightforward but I keep getting these two opposing answers. 





  11. On 12/15/2013 at 7:00 PM, neo_styles said:

    JBL A6000 GTi




    A pair of A6000gti's 


    A Stetsom 14k

    Only two amps I've ever gone nuts about. The Stetsom is my favorite surfboard, it's just simple and unassuming. Too gorgeous.

    The A6000gti's...Would be so perfect for a permanent install. Swap woofers all you want, they're  drowning in power.



    Oh and who doesn't want a Zed Leviathan? :lol:







  12. Yes, thankfully they both still work. It was only partial, so I took a leap of faith and used a bead of hot glue between the spider and the landing for til I can go out and get epoxy. I can reach in and pull the hot glue off easily. They're not super high power, if the noise stays gone, (I heard the spider slapping the landing and took them out to inspect) I'll call it square and leave em. I only have them on 125rms each. 

    I think I want them reconed eventually because the way these sound, I don't think i'm ever getting rid of em; but today is not the day. Maybe I just haven't heard something amazing yet, but i'm very happy with my IDQ's.