nick_19

And I was mistaken earlier. I ordered my N2 April 1st. Got the shipping label notification, but it still hasn't shipped

Check my signature.

Rockford Fosgate subs (the higher end ones) have aluminum dustcaps. Or at least they used to. It has a brushed aluminum look.

Just out of curiosity, what is the operating temperature of the magnets in the BTL N2. I'm sure Fi researched this, but I was just curious. From what I can gather, the operating temperature for ferrite magnets is around 300*C, but the operating temperatures for neodymium magnets is quite lower (source). What grade exactly is the magnets used in the N2? As in, is there a letter following the "N48"? I don't know exactly how hot the magnets get, but I read that voice coils can exceed 150*C. Thanks!

My 15" just shipped!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I read a bunch of negative things on the internet about Nate and was quite hesitant to purchase my alternator from him, but after calling him and personally talking to him for around 30 minutes, I was much more comfortable. My friend has also purchased an alternator with an adjustable external regulator and it works fine. I don't know why it is so hit-or-miss with him. I've found him to be nothing but polite, helpful, and quick with his responses and work. It is a strange situation for sure!

I've got one and love it. No problems and Nate is a really nice guy.

Understood. Thanks, Nick.

Will Fi be doing any type of Spring Sale or promotion sometime soon? Just curious. Not expecting anything. Thanks!

If you have patience, I just got my Sundown SAZ-2500D off of D-br for $500. Wait and one will eventually show up.

Without having to delve too deep into the world of signal reproduction and the discrepancies in what the human ear perceives, can someone please simply explain distortion, how it relates to us simple "daily system" people, and the relevance/relativity in terms of overall distortion of "-40 dB from the fundamental." I read this article, and I understand the basic concepts presented, but I was wondering if anyone could put it in more of Laymen's terms. Thanks!

Thank you all for the responses! I guess what I was trying to ask is this: for the average guy, why would distortion matter if (as 95Honda's example stated) only 1 out of 10k watts was distortion? I would safely venture that I personally would never be able to hear that. How could it damage my subwoofer or speakers? What would be the purpose of limiting distortion besides making the sounds more "pure?" Does distortion coming directly from an amplifier or head unit display that it is playing beyond it's full potential? Thanks you so much. Just tell me if I'm still being too vague. This is how I am seeing it right now: -too much power is the only thing that kills speakers -by measuring distortion from an isolated source (i.e. Head unit, amp) one can see where it begins to clip (causing distortion) -this clipping indicates that the device has reached it's limit to produce power -by finding this limit, one knows APPROXIMATELY where the device will put out it's rated (and proper for the application) amount of power -this enables one to set gains, EQ, etc. to its "full potential" without overburdening it or overpowering the speaker ....maybe?

Completely different thread. I did not mention that particular product one time. Please do not turn this into something nobody will learn from. Keep it on topic. If you have nothing to say that will further everyone's knowledge on the subject at hand, then please sit back and eat your popcorn. In essence, does this distortion come primarily from overdriving amplifiers/sound processors/head units or is it inherent in large amounts in any audio system? Is it merely unpleasant to listen to or can it be damaging to the speaker itself?

Hey all. I have a Saz2500D and an excessive amperage 225 amp alt. Big 3. Autocrat gold batt up front. Anyways, my voltage runs off all over the place (it will drop down 2 volts and sometimes spike up to 16V!!!). Sometimes those spikes will even cause my radio to turn off for a second. Do you think adding a yellowtop or something similar in the back near the sub amp will help voltage drop and these irregularities? Resting voltage is 14.9V. Maximum drops are high 12's. Thanks

Oops.

Does this not happen to anyone else? Darn how strange... Do you think it's how the EA alts react to current demand?

Ok no fuse between the alt and batt. Its about a 1.5 ft run of 0 guage. Would that help? See the spikes only happen when I have the bass turned up very loud and there is a lot of current drop. My car has no voltage regulator. It's controlled by the PCM (ECU). Resting voltage is fine. My friends' vehicle with a 300A alt does the same thing with extreme current draw. With car off, batt rests at normal voltage. Below 13V. I figured an extra batt would smooth out the current demands on the alt.

As of now, I've got a SAZ-2500D and the electrical to back it up, so it's time to get a new sub to be powered! Here's my dilemma: I've always had 15's and experimented thoroughly with them in my car, but I feel as though it would be fun to venture into the world of 18's. However, I can only get up to about 5-5.5 cu. ft. net in my trunk. I would put the 15" in about 4.5 cu. ft. tuned to around 30 Hz. This has shown to provide a fairly non-peaky curve in my car, while being efficient and very, very low. Now, if I stuff an 18" in 5.5 cu. ft. and tune it to 30-32 Hz, will this make it significantly peakier? Will the lows be better or worse? Do you think it would be louder (perceptively) or not? Thanks for the opinions. Goals - loud daily driver with excellent low (25-35 Hz) freq response, while not sounds like complete crap (never been into the whole ProBox thing)

Ok I'll just stick with the 15". I'm more familiar with designing a box around that size subwoofer anyways. Thanks y'all.

Oh I completely agree. What I mean by relatively was durability versus, say, the basket or speaker wire. And as far as shipping it off to PSI.... I trust Fi/AA's engineering... Of course I would like the sub to perform to it's fullest, but I believe this sub has been engineered to perform at its best as is.

Ok so my sub stopped playing today; neither coil will measure either. The only thing that is bothering me is that I cannot understand why. I do not think I overpowered it in all honesty. I've had the same amp on it for 2 years. The coil visually looks brand new: no melted former or discoloration. I cannot see breaks in the tinsel leads or wire ANYWHERE. There is no evidence whatsoever that the bottom of the spider crashed into the top plate; none that I can see. There is no rubbing when I push down on the cone. I've tried the sub on multiple amps. Any ideas what broke on me? Tinsel leads broken inside of the spider? That wouldn't make a lot of sense, though. The spider is not burnt or discolored anywhere. The sub is an Ascendant Audio Havoc 15. I've always has a -24 dB/octave subsonic filter at 27 Hz on. I'm lost.

Thanks for the words. I have sent it to Fi before and got it reconed (with the at-the-time 'new') embedded leads and updated spider kit when this happened to this very sub before. I guess I shouldn't expect too much from how much I use the sub (especially at high power). I emailed them asking the price of a recone. I can cone the sub myself. I HATE (and I mean f**king HATE) shipping subs. Thanks guys. It does make sense that those leads won't last... They do seem relatively fragile.

Any opinions?

Why do you say that? I put my GF's two 12"s in 5 cubes with 100sqin port. Plays amazingly well. From my extremely scientific knowledge from the realm of personal experience (/facetious) I have just found that extreme amounts of port area causes this sub to suffer on the lows. I do not know exactly why, maybe because the port was so much larger and longer, but the sub just did not seem as strong in the 26-34 Hz region. The 12's only have slightly more cone area total... I don't know why this happened to me. I have tried a box with 80 sq. in. and it just wasn't the same as the other two boxes I have built with port areas from 50-60 sq. in. of port. Besides, he can save a lot of space by using a smaller port area. Why make it larger than necessary I guess is half my point.