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nick_19

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Posts posted by nick_19

  2. Posted

    If the dustcap of the sub is hot..and it is not moving, you have a coil out of phase.

    Take the sub out take a picture of both terminals label them 1 and 2, positive should always be on your left.

    Occasionally there is one that has the bands mixed up on the wrong side...it does happen once in a blue moon we miss it and dont get them swapped over.

    The sub was moving, but it could be just one of the coils. How can I test for this Nick? Should I hook each coil up individually?

    He made a video on youtube I believe and a topic on this forum about it, just have to search for it.

    I know how to measure the resistance of the coils, but how would I tell if one got "the bands mixed up on the wrong side"?

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  4. Posted

    I mentioned one possible culprit but it sounds like you have a good understanding of the electrical aspect. Obviously I do not know that your wiring can support +2500wrms, but you do.

    Thanks for the help ;)

    I'll figure this out somehow for sure.

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  5. Posted

    If the dustcap of the sub is hot..and it is not moving, you have a coil out of phase.

    Take the sub out take a picture of both terminals label them 1 and 2, positive should always be on your left.

    Occasionally there is one that has the bands mixed up on the wrong side...it does happen once in a blue moon we miss it and dont get them swapped over.

    The sub was moving, but it could be just one of the coils. How can I test for this Nick? Should I hook each coil up individually?

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  6. Posted · Edited by nick_19

    Yeah. It drops no lower than 12.5. T1000.1bd to SAZ2500D

    Voltage dropping to 12.5v isnt good imo. With a 225a alt and 2500wrms amp on music (doubtful you even come close to that rms rating), you shouldnt really have considerable voltage drop.

    You went from a RF amp to Sundown. Sundown amps are no joke. You may want to consider upgrading or reworking your electrical wiring if needed. You might even need to look into XS Power battery up front and another XS Power battery near the amp. I have a feeling you are starving your Sundown amp.

    Maybe your enclosure foe the sub is less than optimal. :ughdunno:

    Good luck

    Whats wrong with voltage at 12.5?

    Also, why wouldn't he have a considerable voltage drop? Assume at idle the 225a only puts out 150ish, the voltage is going to drop when the alternator is reaching its output limits.

    I don't see how he is "starving" the amp either.

    With the information the op supplied he changed amplifiers and upgraded to one with 2.5 times more potential output. Therefore the electrical requirement is 2.5 times more. But.........no additional electrical upgrades were done to support all the added power.

    12.5v is basically the resting voltage of his battery. This means, to me, that his amp is pulling 100% power out of the alt and them dipping into battery reserves. Dead battery anyone? 13v or higher for me or my systems is turned down.

    There are many unknown variables here, but my opinion stands.

    Op, how hot does the amp get? Pretty hot I bet.

    I ran my previous amp with the stock 120 amp alternator for.... 2 years I believe without incident. Voltage RARELY dropped below 13.8-14V. The time between the period where I upgraded alternators and sold my amp was maybe 2 weeks. That means that I played my "old system (old amp and sub)" for about two weeks with the upgraded alt. Voltage was fine still, obviously. The battery was replaced about 4 months ago. It's resting voltage is 12.6V. Your logic doesn't make sense. Just because I upgrade amplifiers does NOT mean I need to upgrade my electrical if it is already at or above par. I do not ride around playing tones either, so The amount of time my amplifier will draw full current is VERY short. You know about the dynamic properties of music, etc. 225*12.5 (the LOWEST voltage it will drop to) =2812.5. And this doesn't account for impedence rise. And it doesn't include the current the battery has available!!!!! I believe my electrical system is not the problem. I do not mean to be offensive, I just get the feeling that this is NOT and electrical system related problem. My friend was running a SAZ3500D to two 18" Xcons on stock electrical (150 amp alt and one battery temporarily) and he could drop to 11 V!!!!! And it was still loud as fawk.

    Amp stays cool as a cucumber.

    However, the dustcap of the sub got quite warm, which lead me to believe I was driving the amplifier into clipping, which baffles me, because it does not feel like 2500 watts of punishing power. It barely feels like 1000 watts!

    Oh and ANOTHER issue I have is that when playing at full volume, my voltage will actually spike up to over 15V, sometimes giving me an error message on my Driver's Information Center. This is a very strange problem I cannot figure out. It happened with my old amp as well. Stupid PCM monitored voltage. I need to get my alternator internally reg'd I guess.

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  7. Posted

    How are the LPF and Sub-Sonic set ?

    Well the subsonic is something I was waiting to get set until I solve this problem. For now, I have turned it all the way down (yes I did during my initial testing to all of those who suggested it). Also, my LPF is turned all the way up on the amp, but it is set at 60 Hz at a -18 dB/oct. digitally on my radio.

    I'm going out to do more testing this afternoon.

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  8. Posted

    They all stop working? Are you dropping them or what?

    No no, I wouldn't tear something up without purpose. I've got one one that is needle style and one that is digital, both the cheapest versions from walmart. The needle style one blows the fuses no matter what I do, and the digital one just shows crazy numbers no matter what I do. That has nothing to do with my problem, however. I guess I could go buy another cheap one, as I cannot seem to find one to borrow.

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  9. Posted

    Yeah I had a cheap one. They all stop working. I'm saving up for a nicer one. I'll go take some pics this afternoon. It's wires like this. Positive on amp to terminal. One positive wire from terminal to positive one coil one. One positive wire from terminal to positive one coil two. Same with negative. I'll see if I can find a DMM from someone today, however.

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  11. Posted

    Ok let my explain a little more thoroughly. The sub is quieter at ALL volumes. As I said, I have to turn the gain up way past half to get anything that is considered "loud" to me. And that is on 4 volt pre-outs!!!! That is not a port area problem... I know my port area is a little small, but that is something that would affect this scenario at very high volumes/near xmax, not at these volumes.

    You say wiring problem... What wiring exactly? Wiring to my subwoofer? I'll take any advice. Do I have to swap the + and - wires, or can I just reverse the polarity on the amp? (easier to do)

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  13. Posted

    I don't have another amp on hand... sorry :(

    Something I really think is strange is that if I turn the gain to, let's say, halfway (straight up and down) there is NOTICABLY less bass than there was with the Havoc. Now I bought this amp from dB-r, and they said that the repair done to it was for the gain knob. Maybe the gain knob is "out of tune"?

    And I agree that 12.5V is too low of a drop. That also confuses me. I've got Big 3 in 1/0 (KnuKonceptz) and 1/0 all the way around. The battery up front is like... 750 CCA. It's not a little puss.

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  14. Posted

    Yeah I got a flashlight and checked the writing in sharpie on the cardboard part of the former that says "N2 D2"

    Yes it is wired correctly. Coils in parallel to a nominal 1 ohm load. (electrical engineering major in progress--it's wired correctly ;) )

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  17. Posted · Edited by nick_19

    Yeah I was thinking not being broken in but it's too much of a difference. Has anyone gone from a 1250 watt sub to a 2500 watt sub? I was expected a good 'wow'. Maybe my expectations were too high? It just doesn't even seem louder. I said I checked my wiring.

    With the gain at 3/4 (higher than it should ever be for my setup) it's about equal I guess...? Not noticibly louder. Maybe not even as loud. Not enough to warrant the price difference!

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  18. Posted · Edited by nick_19

    Ok so I got my new BTL in today and hooked up. Yes it is a D2 and yes it's wired correctly to 1 ohm. It's in the same box as my old havoc. It's on double the power as the havoc. I have a 225 amp alt and autocracy gold battery. Everything is the same setup as the havoc minus the sub and amp. It's just not that loud... I have to turn the gain up to 3/4 to even get it close to what it used to be. All radio settings are the same. I would think it would be a good bit louder, but it's just not impressing me. Any ideas? I grounds? I checked all x'overs, EQ, settings, etc. I'm lost. 4 volt pre outs.

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  19. Posted

    https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn154db4ad53702ab/shopdata/terms.shopscript

    Quoted from my order confirmation email from Fi:

    "When your order is processed a UPS tracking number will be issued. Due to the way UPS bills, your tracking number will instantly show "Billing information received" as well as an "estimated" delivery date. This is based off of the processing date and not indicative of an actual delivery date. Once your products have been picked up the "Billing information received" notice will then change to show the actual pick up times and movement through the UPS hubs and facilities. At this time it will also change the "estimated" delivery date to reflect their actual delivery date.<br/><br/>As stated "Business Days" are Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday. We are closed Saturday and Sunday and our shipping agencies do not work on these days either.<br/><br/>While we indicate a normal lead time on each speaker page in flashing red letters, there are occasions when we can not meet these time lines. We offer no refunds for a missed delivery date or longer manufacturing times."

    READ. People can be so ignorant sometimes. Fi is literally trying to shove this information down your throat, yet you still ignore it after dropping hundreds of dollars down on the table.

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  21. Posted

    Keep an eye on your voltage if you have an 80 amp alt. You should be fine as lOng as you're careful and aware.

    PS - I've got a SAZ-2500D and my 15" BTL N2 will get here on Monday (ahhh!!). I come up to Ft. Worth every once in a while so if you want to hear it and get an idea we could work something out. I'm down at A&M.

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  23. Posted

    If you plan on "putting more into your system as time goes on" I would get a single Fi BL or BTL or similar 1500+ watts RMS sub. That way when you can upgrade, you can simply buy another amp, sub, and electrical and you have upgraded without having to sell your equipment.

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