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nick_19

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Posts posted by nick_19

  1. Posted · Edited by nick_19

    Impedance of woofers?

    Edit: I'm assuming they are dual 4's.

    2_4ohmDVC_1ohm.gif

    Just do this: connect the positive terminals of a sub together. Do the same for the negative. Then go to the box terminal. Do this for both subs. Then just connect the positive from each box terminal together and go to the amp. Connect the negative from each box terminal together and go to the amp. Done.

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  2. Posted · Edited by nick_19

    Just read your other post. You've already been told, and form what i saw, agreed to run the 2kD why make another thread?

    Because I'm indecisive. There I asked on 1 amp vs 2 amps basically; more of a general/universal standard. Here I am asking more about the BTL and it's capabilities. I don't want to leave the sub asking for more power if it can comfortably take it. I don't really know much about the daily capabilities of the BTL and was just wondering. I don't treat my subs like trash, but I do like to use them to their full potential.

    PS - sorry, I don't mean to sound rude and am not trying to double post. I really did mean for the 2 threads to pose different questions.

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  6. Posted · Edited by nick_19

    I'm going to be powering a BTL N2 15 soon enough and have never owned a BTL before. I'm not asking "how many wattz to make my sub thump," I'm more or less asking if, for daily applications in 4.5 cu ft tuned to 30 hz, the extra 1k watts will make a difference/if the BTL can handle sustained power for a long period of time. Also, I will have an Autocraft Gold batt with a 200 amp h/o alt and Big 3 in 1/0. So please just give me some opinions/what you would do. Thanks all!

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  10. Posted

    I'm designing a new box and have a sort of kink in my design. I'm looking to do a baffle with a 30 degree angle in it. Now the issue with this that I do not know the clearance for the sub since it will be angled downwards. It is a 15" Havoc (standard basket), and I just wanted to know if anyone had any ideas about the clearance. I basically need to know how far above the bottom of the baffle the sub needs to be to clear the bottom piece. Thanks!

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  11. Posted

    Haha point taken thanks for the opinions. I went ahead with Excessive because my alt needed to be custom built and Nathan was just a real great guy to talk to on the phone and seems to have a product to back up. Mechman's website is down and I'm fairly sure they don't carry an alt for my car in stock. The stator will need to be custom wound so the build time was 2 weeks but that's fine. I'll get it around New Year's hopefully, but knowing shipping this time of year, probably a little later. I'll post up with my experience when all is said and done.

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  12. Posted

    Trunk rattle is probably the biggest issue for me as far as extraneous noise goes. This is probably true for quite a trunk-oriented bass setups out there. Anyways, I am trying to diagnose EXACTLY what is causing the noise. I have put padding in between the spoiler mounts and the trunk lid, so I am fairly certain it is not that spot. The license plate is padded and deadened, and the vibration continues even if it is removed. Now the back of the lid is hollow. could it be the panels rattling against each other? Would expanding foam in there solve this? The trunk is obviously padded against the weather stripping all the way around, so it seems unlikely that any of these spots are the cause of the noise. I just want to kill the noise without having to weigh the lid down with 20 lbs of deadener... Just skip to 1:40 to see what I'm talking about:

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  13. Posted

    Hey all. I'm at a loss right now. I'm preparing for a build replacing my subwoofer. I will be using around 2500 watts of bass plus 250 watts of highs. I'll have one battery, but I rarely play the system with the car off. Anyways... Nathan (from Excessive Amperage) seems like a great guy and super nice, but I'll be paying $25 more for 20A less. The Power Bastards alt is 220A and the Excessive alt is 200A. Any recommendations? Comments/experience on build quality? Both come with an overdrive pully and a one year warranty. Thanks.

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  14. Posted

    The issue is that a movable port wall would not be ideal unless you can seal it after each time you move it. You don't want air leaking from the internal box into the middle of the port.

    Your idea of attaching some plugs that take up some internal volume would likely work better. Or else make a totally removable port and have two port areas and lengths attached to their own baffle that you can then just attach into an opening in the box. Orrrrr make the port external so that you can just detach the whole thing and attach another one (this probably works best with aero ports)

    Yeah this was the issue that came to my head as well. No matter how many different types of seals and gaskets I could think of, I couldn't find one that was suitable for my application. I like the interchangeable baffle idea... Might do that.

    I just don't know. I might just have to plug up some volume, which will increase the volume with minimal effort... Hmmmm.

    Thanks for the ideas!

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  15. Posted · Edited by nick_19

    Howdy SSA. Haven't been on here in forever.

    OK so I am looking to create an interchangeable port system for my box. Here is the layout of the box:

    boxplansjan09.jpg

    (Feel free to steal the design)

    Playing around with my little box designing sheet, I thought about making a system where I can remove an appx 7 inch section of the port wall and insert some custom made plugs to lower the volume of the box. This would be just to switch things around. Now does anyone have an idea of how i can create a moveable port wall? I thought about a slide-in design (a hole cut in the top of the box that would let me slide the wall down in like a dam wall) or maybe a system of rails. I'm just looking for some ideas. Please keep it on topic... Thanks guys!

    port wall = purple wall

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  16. Posted

    hi my firends is trying to see which sub is better in """SQL""" he is looking at an FI Q 15 and a AA havoc 15.. he wants to know which hits harder and which one has better sound quality...... and does anybody know how much a Havoc 15 would cost cuz i looked it up on their site and it does tell you how much

    sales@ascendantaudio.com

    They do not post up prices online because prices from each dealer varies. If you need to find your nearest authorized AA dealer, just email dealer@ascendantaudio.com

    The Havocs will run you a little bit more than a Q most likely, but they are great subs. Each is great. Any other questions should be answered in the link provided. Good luck finding your dream sub!

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  18. Posted · Edited by nick_19

    hi all,

    i have dream to own Fi subwoofer long time ago,but i cant find it in my country and also there have no any website that selling Fi product willing to ship Fi product to Malaysia.

    i need some one to help me,to teach me how to purchase Fi product.If i own Fi subwoofer,if i have Fi subwoofer,i think i goona be a king of SPL in Malaysia.

    :ehh:

    Link:

    The World of Fi

    Choose your product and options (Options explained here)

    Have fun and good luck!

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  21. Posted

    sooo i wired my sub in series today and the problem is fixed! :)

    so thanks to you guys!

    but i do have to say the output of the amp doesnt seem the same.. but i could be mistaken.. but no more popping o im happy :)

    The output is not the same because there is not as much power going to the subwoofer.

    The higher the resistance of the sub, the less power you will get out of your amplifier. It will also put less strain on your electrical system and you will not be abusing the amp.

    What size alternator do you have stock? Why don't you just put the SAZ2000 in there, wire it up to 4 ohms, and be RESPONSIBLE with the gains? You will get more power out that you have running right now, maybe more efficiently, and you will not have to worry as much about pushing the amplifier too hard (supposing that you do not turn it up to loud and kill your voltage).

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  22. Posted · Edited by nick_19

    I have a 1990 lincoln towncar, and i need help deciding on where the sub and port should go. I had my ss rl-p18 in there, sub/port back, but i didnt like that. I cant put the sub forward because ltc trunks are like pits with no clear passage to the cab if you get what im saying. Thanks

    Try this. Sub facing up, with the port firing towards the driver's side of the car at the back of the box.

    I have done testing, and you will be able to get the largest volume with this method (short of a wall :P ) and firing this way got the loudest in my car (TermLab) as opposed to firing the port in other directions.

    If you cannot visualize what I am saying, just click on the link to my vids in my signature. Good luck!

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  25. Posted

    Max rating = RMS x 2 (usually)

    Peak/max doesn't mean anything in the car audio world.

    If you are going to be pushing a sub over its RMS rating, you should be knowledgeable to that fact already. I'd just stick with RMS and match the subs and amps to that. Albeit, it is nice to have a little headroom (extra power) on the amplifier side of things to help avoid driving into clipping and/or distortion. Just be responsible with the gains.

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