Jump to content

riored4v

Members
  • Content Count

    202
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by riored4v


  1. Took some quick measurements and if rebuilding a box, I think i'd like to go with 13" H.  I could go with 17" D pretty comfortably (can go more if needed) and the W I'm a bit open to.  I guess I would be curious on how wide it would actually end up being if it was 13"Hx17"D.  I'd also prefer to keep the sub top firing like it is currently so I dont have to worry about stuff sliding in to it.  Thanks again for the help guys.


  2. Give us the dimensions your willing to use and we will be glad to help you out, 13.5" height will be fine. 

      Alright.  I'll grab some front-to-back measurements of the hatch floor.  I'm thinking if I can keep the box contained to just one side of the hatch, leaving the other side open and usable, that it would be perfect.  I'm not too worried about factoring in the angle of the seats.


  3. Currently running my 12" ICON in a 1.35 cu ft sealed enclosure.  The car is a hatchback.  While the sub itself sounds clean and puts out decent volume, I'm often wishing it hit the lower notes a bit better and was louder. 

     

    Is anyone able to help me design a ported enclosure for this sub?  I'm trying to keep the footprint of the enclosure as small as possible, but I understand it'll take more space than the sealed setup currently.

     

    This is the current setup:

    13232405935_0b11190e3f_c.jpg
    Untitled by riored4v, on Flickr

     

    Regarding the height, i can't really go much taller since this still allows me to use my hatch cover to keep everything out of eye sight.  Its at 13.5" tall.

     

    Any help would be appreciated.


  4.  

     

     

    I had an Icon 15" on 650 w in a sealed box : I loved it.

    Maybe you can try to use a round port : it can save you some space, and will be louder ;-)

    the net volume of the sealed enclosure is likely too small to simply add an external port. 

     

    how volume would need to be added for the port to work out?

     

     

    check out the box size requirements for a ported and sealed box for the icon. 

     

     

    gotcha.  Already did that.  I wasn't sure if you had something else in mind since there's uses a rectangular port.  I'll be sticking with the sealed box since i think the ported would take up about half of my hatch area.


  5.  

    I had an Icon 15" on 650 w in a sealed box : I loved it.

    Maybe you can try to use a round port : it can save you some space, and will be louder ;-)

    the net volume of the sealed enclosure is likely too small to simply add an external port. 

     

    how volume would need to be added for the port to work out?


  6. The Icon does not need bonkers amount of power.  I vote to try it sealed @ 4 ohms, maybe add some polyfill or acoustastuff and see how you like it.  If you feel the drop in power to the subwoofer is effecting the output to your disliking, then switch back to 1ohm mono and set the gains consevratively.  wink.png

     

    If it helps, for many stretches in the past, I was using an Orion 2500D at 4 ohms mono (600ish) or US Acoustics 2075 at 4 ohms mono (240ish), and the output was not SPL figure worthy, but plenty in a smaller car.

     

     

    Thanks Aaron.  I think I'll give it a shot.  I'm not trying to compete with it or anything like that.  Just want to make sure it sounds solid and is still very punchy for daily use.


  7. Worrying about louder and small enclosure are effectively opposites. Biggest gain you can make is to port that enclosure.

    If it is ONLY sealed then play with orientation and location of said box.

     

    alright.  Thanks.  Pretty much I was assuming but figured I would ask first.  I dont think I have the room to port it or go with a larger enclosure. 

     

    I'm just hoping reducing the power to the sub will work out with it being a hatch.

     

    Thanks again for the info/help.


  8. 2) Doubling of power is "audible" however you are also changing cars. Comparable would be a possibility if the enclosure and such are optimized.

     

    How could I optimize the enclosure for a hatchback type car?  I'm still wanting to stick with a sealed enclosure to keep the footprint small of it, but suggestions on how to set that up properly would be appreciated.


  9. Working on redoing my previous setup to adjust it for my new car.  My previous car was a mustang and i had the setup in the trunk on about 1400w at 1ohm.  Sub is a 12" ICON in a sealed enclosure.

     

    For the new car, its a hatchback so it should be louder anyways.  The alternator/battery isn't as strong as the mustang's was and its not really something i'm looking to upgrade right now.

     

    On the mustang I was running a cap which helped with the dimming (yea yea.. i know about caps, but it worked out for that setup).  On this car, i'd like to do away with the cap.

     

    The thought is to run the amp (audioque 1200d) at 4ohm instead of 1ohm.  It would drop the power down to 510w (conservatively) instead of the 1400-ish at 1ohm. 

     

    How much would that effect the output of the sub?  I've seen posts about the sub still performing well at lower power, but i'm unsure if it would be a noticeable difference, especially since it would be moving in to a hatchback setup.


  10. I built a sealed box for my 12" ICON to proper size for my mustang, but I've recently sold that car and picked up a small hatchback.  I want to stick with the sealed enclosure design for this car to minimize the amount of space.

     

    Whats the smallest I could go enclosure-wise for the ICON?  Would it be possible to go smaller than the .9-1.25cu ft size thats recommended if the difference way made up with polyfill?

     

    Ideally i want as small as box as possible but I still want the sub to sound great.

     


  11. Picked up the new ADS Maestro, ADS dash kit and Kenwood DNX890HD for the mustang.  .


     

    Install was pretty straight forward.  Accessing the wire for SYNC and OBDII was a bit of a pain though.  Really loving how much you can customize the setup and how much better the audio quality is.


     

    CM5 kit was an mistake in the shipping, otherwise the other parts were all necessary.  CM5 kit was actually supposed to be the RR Maestro unit.
    10935349193_68da60c978_z.jpg
    IMG_1016 by riored4v, on Flickr


     

    Maestro RR
    10935339973_028b04286f_z.jpg
    IMG_1027 by riored4v, on Flickr


     

    Stock
    10935077985_3bf6431283_z.jpg
    IMG_1017 by riored4v, on Flickr


     

    SYNC module located behind glove box
    10935076725_cc01717bf7_z.jpg
    IMG_1020 by riored4v, on Flickr


     

    Sh1tty pic.. but the SYNC wire that needed to be tested.  Should read 5v and then drop when the SYNC voice command button is pushed. 
    10935075715_baa941d673_z.jpg
    IMG_1021 by riored4v, on Flickr


     

    Pulled the OBD2 harness out from the clip and had to splice in to these 2 wires
    10935135666_c6d4ed49db_z.jpg
    IMG_1026 by riored4v, on Flickr


     

    For splicing the factory SiriusXM antenna, you have to remove this clip after taking the cable out of the factory head unit
    10935072585_4308b68103_z.jpg
    IMG_1024 by riored4v, on Flickr


     

    You can then put it in the aftermarket tuner.  Its a slightly loose fit, so some epoxy was used on the outside portion.
    10935073355_61221da835_z.jpg
    IMG_1023 by riored4v, on Flickr


     

    Tuner in place
    10935342053_72e2cc03ea_z.jpg
    IMG_1025 by riored4v, on Flickr


     

    Mess of wires from the ADS harness
    10935344913_b70e573e0d_z.jpg
    IMG_1022 by riored4v, on Flickr


     

    Also had to run the GPS wire through the dash.  Decided to mount mine in the middle of the dash in front of the light sensor
    10935333893_0e19c80d41_z.jpg
    IMG_1037 by riored4v, on Flickr


     

    Then you plug the RR module in to the computer, program it and flash it and it fires everything up.
    10935132996_918333b54d_z.jpg
    IMG_1031 by riored4v, on Flickr


     

    Unit come with a ton of different buttons so you can customize the layout of the dash kit.
    10935067365_c54a5e2aea_z.jpg
    IMG_1034 by riored4v, on Flickr


     

    10935123806_12caa7c7e5_z.jpg
    IMG_1043 by riored4v, on Flickr


     

    10935062325_d884d880e5_z.jpg
    IMG_1039 by riored4v, on Flickr


     

    10935063115_72d0f0dce0_z.jpg
    IMG_1038 by riored4v, on Flickr


     


  12. Kinda bringing this topic back from the dead but what dimensions are the box? And did you have to remove the trunk latch to get it to fit?

     

    Sorry for the delayed response.  Nope, I didnt have to remove anything.  It was a snug fit.

     

    The box was 25" wide, 11 3/4" deep and 12.5" tall.  I don't recall the height of the skirt I built around the box though.. I would guess about 3" tall.

     

    I had to clearance the beam in the trunk to get the box back as far as I wanted it to be, so depending on if you did that or not, the height of the skirt would vary.


  13. Damn, we have a mini Mustang club in here. Who's on the Corral too? I'm there under the same name.

     

     

    Pretty surprised about the amount of mustang people here haha.

     

    I'm on Corral but I rarely post there anymore.  The 11+ forum doesnt seem to be as good as the 87-93 forums, so I primarily visit S197forum and SVTP.


  14. Cars look great! I love Mustangs and miss the last 3 I have had. 89 Saleen 347ci, 03 Saleen and a 03 Cobra. I miss the 89 the most. That car was awesome. My friend that bought it still has it but let the stock interior go to shit.

     

     

    Those old Fox Saleen's were pretty awesome.  I used to have an 87 Saleen.


  15. Thanks man.  I appreciate it.  And yea, I agree.. having both audio and horsepower as hobbies can get expensive very fast.  I've done that on a few of my past cars where they start to become not as fun as a DD.  Definitely not the route I'm trying to go with this car, but who knows what will happen haha.


  16. Thanks..  I appreciate it.  If you need more pics, let me know.  Its lowered on K-springs, but the wheels are 19x9 and 20x10.5, Forgestar F14's.  Yup, grille is Saleen and the front is the Boss/CS Front Fascia with the Boss splitter.

    Thanks for the info.  More pics would be nice smile.png Also what are exact sizes and offsets of your wheels and tires.  I am seriously getting ready to order em up. Are the wheels in gunmetal. Thanks.

     

    I honestly don't remember the offsets of the wheels, but the sizes were 19x9 and 20x10.5.  The rears are the deep concave versions.  Tires are Toyo Proxes 4's and 295/30/20 rear and 255/35/19 on the fronts.

     

    Here's some more pics:

    9018825589_d994260e8f_c.jpg

    IMG_0272 by riored4v, on Flickr

     

    9018822059_1cc6946372_c.jpg

    IMG_0275 by riored4v, on Flickr

     

    9021047094_fa54960001_c.jpg

    IMG_0279 by riored4v, on Flickr

     

    9021044674_0c16561af5_c.jpg

    IMG_0281 by riored4v, on Flickr

     

    9018816843_7ba80b5250_c.jpg

    IMG_0280 by riored4v, on Flickr

     

    9018823027_f4b5ee33da_c.jpg

    IMG_0274 by riored4v, on Flickr


  17. I kept moving up til I drove the S197 and then had to move back to the Fox.  I love the looks of the new cars, but everytime I sit in my dad's I really dislike the fact that my arm rests on the console to shift.  And damn are they heavy. 

     

    Yea, they are definitely big on the scales.  But they're damn quick.  This is my 8th or 9th mustang ranging from 87 to present, and so far its by far my favorite.  Super quiet, fast and comfortable.  Plus I dont think I would have ever trusted one of my H/C/I foxes to make super long road trips like I have with this car haha.

     

    The shifting thing..yea, it was a little weird for me at first also.  Especially when you come from a fox where you are basically on top of the shifter.  I've grown to really like it.  Armrest makes for really comfortable cruising and when you want to rip a gear, you don't notice the different location at all.

×