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sound=vibration

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Posts posted by sound=vibration


  1. Well I am having questions about the big 3 upgrade and running into some problems. I will soon be running Two Level 3 DC 10s in my truck on a DC 2k or a crescendo 2k.

    Okay where to start Here is the list of things i am going to get for the upgrade if you guys know of any better things or better prices please let me know.

    http://www.amazon.co...=A3J1PF183V710G

    This is fine if you want to spend the money.

    ttp://www.amazon.co...4163658&sr=1-16

    Over prices in my opinion not sure where to look but usally only 1-2 bucks each

    http://www.amazon.co...4163658&sr=1-16

    Same here

    http://www.amazon.co...cp_ob_e_title_2

    You will need a fuse holder if dont already have one

    And i am missing a few items i will have pictures of them if you guys could tell me where to get them and the size.

    first off here is a picture i have a question with

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    Can i attach the terminal on top of the previous one i have right there the stock red one or do i have to get a different terminal? OR could i possible get aways with two simple ring terminals where that old one is? What would be best what should i do?

    You could add them in ontop of the red power wire you have there.

    Next Picture and question is where can i get this one of my buddies gave me it and i can't find out where to get it and what size it is.

    Autozone carried them when I was working there not sure if they still do as this was over a year ago.Check the battery area.

    a5c2705d.jpg

    NExt question is i have a ground going off the negative of the battery and under the engine block i believe and i am wondering if i should run my new zero gauge where that is going or make a new connection on another spot and take that wire out? seen in this picture

    Do not remove any of the stock wiring simply add to them. Run the wire along the exsisting ot from both exsiting points just be sure they are bare metal to ensure a good connection.

    965fe0cf.jpg

    Next picture is is a little red box that gets power from the positive of the battery and houses power to my alternator and then runs down underneath my engine and i don't know where it goes because my truck is so low i can't get underneath and am wondering if anyone has a idea where it goes and if i should get rid of the box and just run wire everywhere or keep the box and use it for the zero gauge.

    Jack up the truck and see if you can follow it. Nothing like finding out first hand! Second leave the red box alone and run the alternator wire direcly to the battery. you are trying to upgrade the size of the wire it makes no sense to run it back through a smaller stock wire.

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    Also i am wondering what size ring terminal is best for the alternator i am having trouble finding a small enough one.

    Hard for anyone to say trial and error or measure the one you have, If all else fails you can grind down a bigger one and or use a washer to ensure proper contact depending on what issue you are having with a larger one.

    And with the alternator some people are saying put a fuse on the line going from the positive of your battery to the alternator i am wondering if i should do that or is it not necessary?

    For SAFTEY REASONS yes should your crimp ever come loose and the wire ground out you dont want it arcing everywhere possibly frying your alt or other items, you also dont want it to start a fire and burn the truck down.

    And the last question here is a pic of my distribution block i believe and it splits the power from my sub amp to my mids and high amp and i am wondering where can i get one that will work with my zero gauge? also my mids and high amp only allows eight gauge is there a block that can allow a 0 gauge output and 8 gauge output. sorry if its confusing here is a pic of it right now i can explain more if you have questions.

    I just installed that same Distro block on a customer car. Get rid of it there are numerous ones that will allow 0awg in and all the way down to 8 out look on amazon or even ebay.

    a7b5d375.jpg

    d0910cd4.jpg

    and last last question on the positive going back to my amp how far away should my fuze be? and will i need any more in other places?

    Keep it within a few feet.

    well thanks for going through this long question i just want to make sure its right i do it all right i want to do it myself because i want to learn how to do it. i will reply if you guys have any more questions and please let me know if i am missing anything.! Thanks

    -Cole

    Hope i covered everything. Try to use more puncuation, dont run on your sentances so much you will notice you will recieve more help. Use normal font sizes and stay away from bold unless you want to place emphasis on something. Not trying to be an ass just trying to help you out. Good luck and google can be a powerful tool to help answer many questions.


  2. in performance

    Do you read, or is everything just given to you on a silver platter.

    i wasn't asking you so please mind your business

    Whoahhh its a Fourm when you ask a question you ask everyone unless otherwise specified.

    To clear things up before anymore problems brew, The Gcon is to feel the gap between the Dcon and the Icon as previously stated. You asked about performance and if it were better than the Zcon. To answer that with out knowing your goals would be misleading info. If your looking for a awsome sounding 750w rms driver than the Gcon may be better performing to you than the Zcon, however if your looking to throw but loads of power at it than the Zcon would be a better choice as that is not what the Gcon is designed for. I wouldnt say one is better performing than the other it is really dependant on your goals of the woofer setup ect.

    I hope this helps you out. All this info was found in the thread and a quick browse through it would have answered all of your questions.


  3. Build enclosure to spec and run rated power. Could they handle more sure if done correctly and dont complain if they fail. Ratings are set in place for specific reasons and you should not start putting more power to them on account of what others have done or said, seen, ect. Should you feel your electrical is up to par and you have a clean signal as well as an enclosure that is up to par than slowy began adding power until you feel they are at a point they will not take anymore. Remember there are more than one limit that will cause a subwoofer to fail like bottoming out, over excursion, thermal limits, should you find your self adding more power pay close attention to these as your Distortion detector will not save you from any of the above nor will it 100% determine your signal will always be clean.

    In conclusion it is not reccomended to run more than rated but is possible. No one will be able to tell you x amount is too much as there are way too many varibles and is install dependant. Have fun!


  4. Here is the new design to free up some space and got subs up port back. It will be temporary until I sell my subs and get my Xcon 10s

    EgHatch 2 12 Ssa icons

    EgHatch 2 12 Ssa icons side2

    EgHatch 2 12 Ssa icons side

    EgHatch 2 12 Ssa icons rear

    EgHatch 2 12 Ssa icons front

    For an update I have got a brand new in the box Kicker 400.4 Dx in the box still wrapped in plastic for an enclosure I am doing so it will be running my mids!

    For those who dont know it is 4 AA carbons and 2 seas tweets.

    Car is currently awaiting alignment and tags and from there I will be doing the engine wire tuck and I have started sourcing out parts for my turbo kit!! Wooot stay tuned


  5. Maserati in my nieghbors parking... I guess it was one of his friends. Any how here is the box It is built for 2 Re Audio 8s Tunned to 35.5hrz at 1 Cube and is going behind the seat of a S10 Single cab truck. Fit perfect!

    maserati

    Design

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    IMG_0878.jpg

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    IMG_0881.jpg

    IMG_0888.jpg

    IMG_0890.jpg

    IMG_0892.jpg

    IMG_0885.jpg

    IMG_0893.jpg


  6. Finnaly installed my Rack and pinion with new tie rods and new balljoints. Also did new camber kits all the way around, and all new brakes tonight! Tomorrow should be a new clutch master cylinder and my rear sway bar along with finishing the new cam installation, I need to torque everything and set my timming. Plan is to make it out to the show at TRPs in April. I have also started my kick pods and started redoing the door pods as I was unhappy with the start of the last ones. The new ones are much smoother! Pics to follow for the door pods as for everything else I dont have a working camera at the moment sorry.


  7. I’ll start this with a question, It might help you with some of yours. If SQ is not a concern only Tl numbers why are you set on tuning to 32hrz why not 36 maybe 38hrz? Or are you looking for something that will produce low end. Not sure if you are 100% true to your goal, usually when concerned with number you tune higher and when looking for a nice daily setup you are somewhat concerned with sq. Is there a happy median between the two? Sure but where that is is up to you! Compromise is the key here..


  8. Does sound like an Rca issue however if you did not touch them when replacing the power wire and ground I would look at them first. I had a similar expierence ended up being a loose crimp on my ground wire it was still making a connection just loose. Could even be loose at the battery. If you have a extra set of rca try that as well. Let us know what happens.


  9. Ive seen these run full range and sounded awsome of course I would not recommend it unless you are careful with what you are doing... Own two sets my self they are awsome mids and for those who are wondering if installed properly they will play lower than 50 hrz just as Mark we had lots of fun listening to them!!


  10. throw 20hrz at them free air for about an hour that should do the trick... Remeber dont go crazy with the volume free air.

    Asu

    reckless with no guidelines... lol ... are you being serious or a d1ck? :peepwall:

    He's bring serious, not being reckless or a dick. ;)

    Serious alot of people do it when measuring TS peramters on a new sub, simple be careful with the volume knob and you will be OK! Thanks for the back up hinote!

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