JonnieBlaze

He was one of the best sellers I've dealt with. He had great communication, documented everything, and gave pics of the H701 and controller before he shipped it so I could see how it was packaged. He did much more than expected and the H701 came in great condition just like he described. Thanks a lot! -Jonnie

Yeah, if I go the distribution block way. I was just thinking instead of spending $40 on distribution blocks, go ahead and spend an extra $50 to get an extra battery for the back and I wouldn't need the distribution block because everything could be hooked directly up to one post on the battery. But I wasn't thinking that every power wire leaving the battery would need its own fuse. But I guess it would still be best to get a fused distrobution block even if I do get an extra battery. So since I need the block whether I get a battery or not, I won't get the battery...I was just getting it so I could play longer without the car on. Maybe I'll get one later...who knows.

Hey everyone, I need a distribution block that will input 1/0 gauge wire and output two 4 gauge wires and two 8 gauge wires. Or alternatively a distribution block that will input a 1/0 gauge wire and output three 4 gauge wires then another block that will input a 4 gauge wire and output two 8 gauge wires. But what I'm thinking, is just for a little more money I can get a second battery, hook the 1/0 gauge up to the positive post, then hook all the other wires up to the positive post without a need for the distribution blocks. I'd be spending just a little more money (the smallest powermaster battery on ebay is about $90..not sure if that'd even be beneficial) but I'd be getting another battery and not these distribution blocks. Now would I need fuses on the two 4 gauge and the two 8 gauge wires that'd be directly on the battery or would the two fuses on the 1/0 gauge from the first battery be enough? I'm not looking at this from the standpoint of "I have so many things that I need more batteries!" I'm just thinking it would be worth the couple extra bucks to get the battery instead of buying distribution blocks.

looking at zaphaudio.com, this SB Acoustic speaker is the best bang for the buck around $50 a piece. But I've seen a lot of people mention this Peerless speaker as well. The only negative I can find is the SB speaker is 8 ohms so I'd have to find a slightly larger amp to give them their full 60w @ 8 ohms compared to the peerless which need 50W @ 4 ohms. Not necessarily a negative I know...I just read up on why higher impedance is not bad. No place around here has these speakers so I can't really listen to them and determine for myself which I like better. Anyone have any input on these two? If I buy a set, they'll be installed in my front doors running off a 4 channel amp (not sure what amp yet).

Anyone have any recommendations?

Does anyone have any experience with this Tang Band for a midrange? Zaphaudio.com gives it a good review: It gets almost 5 stars in every category. The only problems I see are 1) Its not instock until mid July. 2) It is an 8ohm speaker that wants 25w RMS and 50w Max. My amp is rated for 75w RMS at 4 ohms. So putting the 8ohm speaker on there would drop the 75w down a bit...but even if I kept my gain all the way down would it be too much for the speaker? In all honesty I dont know what to look for when picking frontstage speakers. I'm just looking around to see what other people recommend.

Ok, so the peerless is back in stock. I'll probably get two of them for the front doors. What about the midrange and tweeters? For tweeters I saw someone recommending these Seas 27TFFNC/G (H1396) Any other tweeters you all would recommend over these in the $30 range or below? As for midrange I have no clue. I've seen soooo many different recommendations that I'm really lost. Everybody likes something different. So i figure if I could just see some of the favorites around here I'll just pick one. For budget I'm thinking around $50 a piece. Size...6.5 or smaller...I'll custom mount these since I have no factory locations. Speaking of mounting...would it be absolutely horrible to put these in the dash (close to the windshield) aiming backward to the back of the car? I really dont have much room for kicks so I'm looking for alternatives. I even thought about molding them to the bottom of the dash right above the kicks but that doesnt leave much knee room. Any other ideas on that?

I'm planning for 3-way. I have a 4 channel amp for the tweeters and mids (havent picked them out yet). I'm trying to figure out what midbass I want then I'll get an amp for that. I already have the subs and mono amp so thats covered. I can't find any XLS's right now. Maybe some will show up in the next few weeks. I'm checking out the daytons's now...

Alright..then 8 it is. Now, when you say peerless hasnt been delivering very well...do you mean they are just slow shipping things out, or their products have been slacking as of late?

This peerless? Its been out of stock for a while on madisound. They arent discountinued are they?

What do you think the reason for that is? Is it because the peerless is a better midbass option out of the two? Are there other midbasses in this price range ($50-60 a piece) that would do better in a sealed door than this peerless? Depth should be 5.5" or under and nothing bigger than an 8" diameter (6.5 preferably). Will be getting the H701 sometime soon. Amp will be decided on later.

Just for background information: I use to have two 12 inch Cerwin Vega's (bought in '03, no idea was model) rated for 400w rms. They are 4 ohms, single voice coil. I have them in a sealed enclosure. It was not made to spec, but it was the closest premade box I could find to spec. I think each woofer wanted something like 2.1 ft^3 or something. Lastly, I bought a cheap amp..Boss Ripper 995. Below are the specs on the amp: 2- Channel MOSFET Power Amplifier Power Max (2 Ohm) 500w x 4 Power RMS (4 Ohm) 260w x 4 Power Bridged: 1000w x 2 Tri-Mode VU meters [power level] Cooling fans Remote subwoofer level control Line and speaker level inputs MOSFET power supply Line outputs Variable high & low pass crossovers Fain control Power and Protection LEDs 0~180 degree variable phase shift control Bass Boost 0 - +18 dB S/N Ratio: > 105 dB T.H.D. 0.01% Now to the issue. I remember this setup being very muddy and not very tight sounding. In my own mind, I decided it was the size of the woofers and to get a quicker tighter sound I needed something smaller that would move faster...such as 8 inch woofers. But I'd need several of those to make up for the lost surface area and excursion of the 12's. So I decided 4 eights should do the trick. But then I talked to a guy that installs system for a living and he tells me about the dampening factor and slew rate of amps. He says my boss amps lacks any good dampening and slew rate and that's why I get the muddy sound. The amp just can't recover quick enough after a hard hitting bass note. He said my Cerwin Vegas would sound much better if I just get a better amp. So now I'm kinda stuck. I was looking at Kicker amps because they are right in my price range. To power two 8 inch woofers i was going to use one Kicker 750.1 But they dont list slew rate or dampening factor and their tech support doesnt know it either (waiting for the R&D lab to call me back) I want the best bang for my buck. I know there is always something better out there but I dont need the best of the best. I just want something that will give me the tighter bass. Suggestions? Something else to note, on JL Audio's website (out of my price range..), their amps have better dampening factors at higher ohm loads: >500 @ 4 ohm / 50 Hz >250 @ 2 ohm / 50 Hz Would this be the same for all amps? Comparing a kicker amp hooked up to a sub at 4 ohms and the same amp hooked up to a sub at 2 ohms, would the 4 ohm setup have the better feel because it has the higher dampening factor? Because if the 4 ohm load gives a tighter feel to the bass, then I wont go with a mono amp and run it at 2 ohms.....I'll get a 2 channel amp and give each sub its own channel at 4 ohms. Sorry for the length of this post..I just really need some answers.

Those look nice. Are the panels sealed or do they open up into the door to allow more air space? Just curious.

I'm not sure if they are the same or not. I know the bodies are just slightly different but I'm not sure about the door panels. Is there anyway you could get some pics of them? What size speaker would they accommodate?

Yeah, there is a 360.2 amp on ebay right now. Not sure if that's really what it is supposed to be called (360.2) but its there. I measured my mounting depth in my front doors. 2 inches with no baffle. 3 inches with stock plastic baffle. Making my own baffle I can bring it out to about 4 or 4.5 inches. 4 would be best, less likely to be kicked, and 4.5 is doable, and 5 is just pushing it. 5 would be doable if I put some good strong grilles in front of the speaker. I went to the local shop today and looked at the eclipse 7200 and alpine 9887. I did not like the eclipse...the little background pictures and movement ticked me off cuz I could barely see the readout on top of the background. The alpine seemed pretty awesome, but a great deal cheaper. Not sure if that shows that its not a top of the line HU or not. But it was very straight forward and plain, not much background movement and easy to read. I couldnt find the pioneer 800 prs anywhere in town. I really wanted to see that one. So which head unit do you all suggest? I want something with axillary rca inputs, good processing, usb would be nice so I could attach a small harddrive to it, and a plain easy to read display without fighter jets flying around in the background cough*eclipse*cough. Bluetooth and Ipod control seems nice, but is not on my priority list.

What if I just get the pioneer 800prs as suggested above? That will do the processing I need correct? And it has inputs so if I do decide to go the carpc route later on, I can still use the HU for my processing correct? Or is this a bad idea.... I need a new headunit anyway, my old alpine doesnt eject cd's anymore and it is staying in my truck anyway.

I looked up the vehicle online somewhere and that's what it listed. I've always wanted to try making a fiberglass panel...so I'd say the 3" depth is very negotiable. I know for a fact they can come further into the cabin away from the door another 2 inches before they would get in the way. I can find out exactly how much I have inside the door tonight. So what are some other processing units that might work in my case?

Ok... I got a 2000 Dodge Neon for my commuting car. Speaker sizes are: 6.5x3 in door, 3.5x2 in dash, 6x9xwhatever in rear deck. I plan on removing the 6x9s and building my box for my sundown e8's into the rear deck. Speakers in the rear are kinda pointless anyway right? So processing first right? Now that you know what kind of car it is, what would you suggest? I think I want to stick with a separate unit like that RF 360.2 so that it doesnt matter what headunit i get, I can still have good processing. I doubt I will do this, but there is a possibility I'll build a car pc and that would have no processing I figure, so a separate unit would be a must. My problem is the RF 360.2 is so expensive. Even on ebay it is over 300 dollars. Are there any other options? I dont need/want the best of the best. This will be my daily driver and I just want something that will sound good.

Was looking around and found the Alpine PXA-H701 unit. I assume this is the sort of processing I'm looking for, but that's pretty pricey. Are there any other options that aren't so expensive? What about a good headunit that will do all the processing without needing another external unit? Is there anything like that?

So component sets are not the way to go? because they include passive crossovers? Alright, so I need active crossovers before I get the midbasses. This should not require knowledge of what vehicle I will be putting everything in, so I should be able to find crossovers that will work in my application fairly easily. The crossovers on the amp are not going to cut it I take it. So what crossovers should I be looking at?

I just saw these on the website this morning and was curious about them. Glad to hear they are good. I have another questions I've been wondering about. If I'm going to be upgrading all my speakers anyway, why should I buy midbass speakers, tweeters ,and crossovers seperately when I could just buy a component set that offers all three? Am I heading down the wrong path? Should I be considering component sets instead of buying everything piece by piece? This is pretty far off topic now...I might have to start a new one in the speaker section soon.

Wow..those do look good. quick question...I'm playing around with the UniBox program and it is asking for Sd(effective piston area) of the driver. What would it be for this sub?

Thanks for the help. I'm looking around a bit now just to get an idea of what my options are. About this madisound website...are those speakers for mobile use or are they more for home audio? Or does it matter? And no, I'm not buying anything till I know what will fit in the car I get....lol. I just want to know what's out there.

really? I mean that'd be a huge relief if you're serious. you wouldnt happen to have any recommendations on midbass drivers would you?

Alright... Well I found these for midbass drivers: CSS SDX7. Anyone know if they are any good (they say woofer but would they actually be midbass)? They are out of my price range, but I'm not sure what to look for so its kinda hard finding good ones. If anyone has some recommendations let me know please. I dont care about size or anything, I just want to be able to look at a a few. Secondly, back to the top of the thread. The JBL Crown amp was suggested previously for the subs. What is another amp that has good dampening factor that would work well with midbass drivers? JL and JBL/Crown are the only companies I can find that list dampening factors....I was just curious as to some other ones. Thanks for everyone's help so far