JonnieBlaze
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Posts posted by JonnieBlaze
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Processor sold (with microphone). Only the controller (+Ai Net cable) for sale now. $150 shipped and paypal'd
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price drop to $400 shipped and paypal'd
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bump...still got it
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bump...still have the whole combo. I may separate them IF the processor/PXA-H701 sells first. So if anyone just wants the processor let me know.
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Sorry, I'd rather sell them together.
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still for sale.
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Hey Everyone.
I have an H701 and C701 combo for sale. It includes the original boxes, manual, ai-net cable, and little microphone to help with tuning your system (i don't know if this was something additional the previous owner had to buy or not). I bought it used from someone here on the forums a while back. I had big plans of putting a system in my subaru but never got around to it. I got far enough to wire this up in my car and browse through the menus but never hooked any amps up to it. Just need to sell it now so someone can get some use out of it and it won't go to waste. It'll probably cost about $20 to ship so I'm asking $450 shipped and paypal'd.
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Well they sounded great, but not in this setup. I never actually got around to installing them because my amp was dead and I didnt have the extra money to get it fixed or get a new one.
I ended up building two ported boxes to Sundown's specs using the RE slotted box calculator. I put two of the 8's in each box, hooked each box up to a 500 watt Alpine amp and they sounded awesome. Put one box in my sister's car and one box in my girlfriend's car. They are louder than two 12" cerwin vegas I use to have on a cheap 2000 watt amp in my chevy blazer. Its obvious now how buying quality subs and amps and building a box to the right specs really makes all the difference.
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So yeah, its been like two years since I've updated this. I got the sub boxes finished and had the 4 subs and 1 amp installed. I went to test out the system and the amp was bad :-( Stupid me bought it on Ebay for my last car, never actually got around to installing it, decided to put it in the Forester (about a year later) and when I finally did the amp was bad. So its been sitting in my house for another 2 years waiting for me to pony up the cash to get it fixed. Sucks.
Well anyway, after that I kinda gave up on the project and now I'm about the sell the car. I wanted to update this thread with some more pictures because I plan on putting the two boxes up for sale and will direct people to this thread to see how they look and how I installed them. I lost the pictures where I actually built the boxes, but basically I just added some more layers to the fiberglass pieces I already had, then took nylon rope soaked in resin and places them on the flat parts of the fiberglass to strengthen them. I figured the curves had enough strength. Then I cut my top and front out of MDF and screwed it together. There were a lot of gaps between the fiberglass and MDF. Some places were big enough to cut pieces of wood and fill the holes. Other places I had to use liquid nails. After it was all together and basically sealed, I coated the inside and all the corners/joints with another layer of fiberglass mat and resin to truly seal it. Then I worked down all the rough edges and put carpet on.
So this first picture is the molded carpet that was on both sides of the cargo area.
I had to cut it where you see, and discard the middle section because that was being replaced by the box.
Ok, I didnt actually discard the middle part. I kept it in the shed because when it was time to put the Forester back to stock and put the pieces back together by gluing carpet to the joints. Good as new and can't even tell they were cut in the first place.
The back of the drivers side box. The foil and tape was pretty stuck...I didnt worry about getting it off. You can't see it anyway.
The drivers side box when it is getting installed. It stayed there on its own pretty good but I used a couple sheet metal screws in each box to really hold them down to the cargo area
The passenger side box.
The passenger side box when it is getting installed.
Both boxes installed
They fit perfectly up to the plastic interior pieces around the struts and windows.
The passenger side still has a pass-through for the cabin pressure relief flaps and the 12volt adapter plug is there incase I wanted to put a plug back there like it originally had.
The drivers side box has a similar pass-through built it but its large enough to mount an Alpine H701 processor
The amp floor mounted but not carpeted. Its really not mounted, but its such a perfect fit its almost a pain to put in.
These are the pieces that get mounted to the inside of the box and the subs actually mount to these. The allows the subs to be recessed about 3/4 of an inch into the box. They must be removed to get to the sheet metal screws that hold the boxes to the cargo area. Once they are removed the holes are large enough to even fit a large battery operated drill so you can drill your mounting holes
Inside of the boxes. You can see the reinforcement nylon rope that was soaked in resin.
Comparison of the box carpet with the factory carpet. That factory carpet is one of the three pieces above that were cut and reinstalled.
The view of the box from a passenger door looking under the cargo cover (which hides it all) and through the backseat
Cargo cover covers everything perfectly
Passenger side box. The inside piece of wood will need to be painted black or carpeted to make it blend. After the subs are installed you only see two very small pieces of that so I was just going to paint it.
Drivers side
Finished product without carpet
Finished product with carpet. I haven't glued the carpet down yet so it might have a wrinkle or two.
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Hey guys,
I bought some E8s a long time ago and haven't had time to install them in a vehicle yet. I'm looking to build a ported box for two of them and was using a calculator online to help me figure out how big to make the port.
The box is for two E8s (they displace .03 ft3 each right?) and I'm trying to build it so each sub gets .6 ft3 of airspace and the port is tuned to 30 hz (like the sundown website recommends). I can get the internal dimensions right at 1.2 ft3 (a little more actually to accommodate the displacement of the sub) but the port is only a 2"x2" square 8" long. Does that seem right? Could I make it 1"x4" rectangle or even .5"x8"? Or would that cause too much turbulence having the port that narrow? It just seems odd that the port needs to be so small....but I've never built a ported box before...only sealed.
Thanks for the newb help.
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No warranty on the amp unfortunately.
Db-r said the same thing...transistor probably went bad because of something else going bad. I have soldering guns and multimeters but not the skills to dive very deep into this thing.
Guess I'll send it to someone in a couple weeks when I get some extra cash.
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I saw that website earlier. I was thinking about emailing them if it got to the point where I couldn't fix it myself. But I went ahead and just now sent them an email just to see what they say. Hopefully they say a transistor is an easy fix and I can do it myself pretty easily..haha.
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Hey guys,
I am having the following issue with my amp:
The protection light comes on as soon as it powers up and it stays on. If I leave the amp on for a minute or so I can feel it getting really hot on the corner where the fuses are located on the bottom. The side of the amp is where it is getting hot and it looks like maybe a transistor over there (you can see if by looking in past the fuses). I have a Kicker amp that works just fine using the same power, ground, and remote wires.
Memphis quoted $175 to fix it. I think it could be an easy fix if its just a bad transistor. I know how to solder and I've taken an amp out of its heatsink before to work on it but ended up not needing to do anything to it so I have no experience working on amps. Do you all have any website recommendation that could give me an idea of how to do this? Do any of you all do your own amp repairs and if so do you have any hints you could send my way?
Thanks.
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Alrighty...after over a week I finally got back out there and worked some more on the Forester. Not having much time or experience with this makes the whole process very slow. Luckily, I had black friday to work on it while the rest of the world was shopping
Popped the fiberglass out of the car to more easily add some layers:
Finished putting Raamat on the floor:
Finished putting Ensolite everywhere:
Trimmed up the fiberglass a bit and put it in for a test fit:
Fitting on the top board of the enclosure:
Fitting on the front board of the enclosure:
Test fitting everything:
Now here is something I'm not sure is going to work. The floor is very uneven in the back. So the board that the amps will be mounted to does not sit even. My plan was to put little blocks under the board to raise the low spots to be even with the high spots, then shoot expanding foam everywhere to take up the extra space and make the board level.
Preparing for the expanding foam:
Amp floor put in and foamed under....foam hasn't fully expanded yet:
After the foam hardens I'll cut it and shape it to make it look right.
I still need to finish the boxes obviously. I won't be putting carpet over anything for a while. I just want to get everything finished and working then I'll worry about cosmetic things.
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Well I worked on it for a few more hours tonight. Seems like I work for hours and hardly get anything done. Tonight I got one side glassed for an enclosure and covered the other side with foil so I can glass it tomorrow night. The plan is to put two of the Sundown E8's in each enclosure. They'll be sealed.
Passenger side foiled, ready for fiberglass:
Driver side fiberglassed. Has a couple layers on it now. Will pop it out and add more layers and reinforcement this weekend:
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that vent in the back is kinda wierd. is there anything connected to it.?
Nope just a vent to the outside. Its tucked behind the plastic molding that goes around the car. I'm not too worried about it. It will have plenty of air flow. Probably more than needed but oh well.
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I was just hoping to keep all the pics and install related information at the very top. But its alright...no big deal.
Here is the car all of this will be installed in:
Rear Passenger side with no deadening:
Deadening Added:
Cardboard frame work for the sub enclosure:
I still need to add deadener to the floor, and ensolite just about everywhere. There are some vents back in that little cubby hole where the cardboard is. That little channel I built out of cardboard is so the vent still gets airflow like it did from the factory. I honestly dont know what its for, but I dont really want to block it off with fiberglass.
I can't work on it tonight, but I'll get more pics up when I get the chance to work on it some more.
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Hmm..Well I was going to add some pics tonight but now it looks like I can't edit my original post or any of the ones I reserved. Is that normal or am I doing something wrong?
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Hey Everyone,
I'll be building a system into my (new to me) 2005 Subaru Forester over the next couple weeks. This will be my first build ever so hopefully it goes well and I don't mess things up too bad.
Opinions and Suggestions are welcome.
Goals:
- Take up minimal cargo space
- Don't make it too noticeable to people looking in the windows
- Create the system so it can be removed and stock pieces re-installed
- I've never had good, tight bass in my past vehicles. I want to achieve that 'tight' sound more than anything.
Components to install:
- 4 Sundown Audio E8s
- 2 Peerless SLS 8" Midbass
- 2 Peerless 4" Midrange
- 2 Seas Prestige Textile Dome Tweeters
- Memphis Belle 16-MCH1300 5-Channel Amp
- Kicker 650.4 Amp
- Alpine H701 Processor
- Older Alpine Headunit (can't remember model number)
Supplies:
- RAAMmat BXT
- Ensolite from RAAMaudio
- Wire, Fuses, and Distro Blocks from KnuKonceptz
- 1/0 gauge wire from weldingsupply.com
11/09/2009
I started taking apart the interior and will post pics and updates to this thread as I start the build.
0 - Take up minimal cargo space
Alpine PXA-H701 & RUX-C701 Processor
in For Sale/Wanted
Posted
Controller Sold