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JonnieBlaze

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Posts posted by JonnieBlaze

  1. Posted

    Running a pair of them could do the trick, but you do NOT need 2 4's and 2 tweets to go with them.

    I didnt mean I'd have two 6.5's, two 4's and two tweeters on each side, I just meant in the car total. There is a flat spot on my door panel that I could cut out and cut some of the door behind it to house another 6.5. That would give me two in each door. I dont think there is enough room at that flat spot for the 8, but I'm going to check again next time I go out to the car. I really hope I can find room to put it there. There is hardly any space for a 4 inch and tweeter at the kick panel, so I know there is no hope of putting the 8 in a kickpanel.

    If I find room in the flat spot of my door panel to put the 8, it will be right around my hip, not anywhere near the kicks. Would that be a bad move?

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  2. Posted

    I noticed the Sensitivity of the Peerless, CSS, and MLI were 86.5, 85.0, and 89.0 respectively. Are those close enough to not make a difference, or is that a significant difference?

    Even though the excursion of the peerless is pretty far at 8 mm, does the higher sensitivity of the MLI make it a better midbass driver to achieve the punchy, 50-100 hz bass?

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  3. Posted

    I looked at my doors again tonight and for me personally, its going to be too much to cut the doors up and glass the 8's into the door. I'm going to have to go with 2 6.5" midbass, 2 4" midrange, and 2 tweeters. 6.5 in the doors sealed the best i can, and the rest in kickpanels. I hope I dont end up disappointed with 6.5" compared to 8".

    No one has mentioned the 6.5 Peerless SLS I linked to in the original post. Does anyone have experience with that compared to the MLI? My amp will be pushing 120 watts at 4 ohms rms. From what you all are saying, that seems like a decent match for the MLIs while the SLS only calls for 50 watts rms and 100 peak. I've also seem some people mentioning the CSS XDS7 but at 100 bux a pop that's out of my price range. 50-60 each is sounding a little better. I'm just really looking for the speaker that will put out the most. I know it depends mostly on the install, but it still depends on the driver pretty heavily as well. Can anyone compare any of these speakers to each other in terms of midbass output?

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  4. Posted

    since you are running them, how have you liked your SLS? I am looking at doing 3 pair in my doors for mid-bass, and can't decide whether or not to squeeze in 8's or just go with 6 1/2s. how deep do you have your's playing?

    Sorry, I can't help you out with that. When I bought the Neon, it only had two tweeters..all the other speakers were blown. So i made a baffle for the 8 inch peerless and cut out two huge holes in the door panels and put them in, wired to the factory radio. No deadening, door wasn't sealed, no crossover. I just needed to put something in there temporarily until I could get something besides the neon. I liked them, but I have no idea what they are capable of because I did not install them correctly.

    I really wish I could put the 8s in my doors, but I dont think I can figure out an easy way to do it since I'm not very good with fiberglass. I've made a couple kickpanels before but nothing extravagant.

    Here is a pic of what my door looks like. So either I pick out a 6.5 that will achieve what I'm after, or I try to figure out a way to mount an 8 to that door, and fiberglass around it to make it look decent while keeping that little pocket area.

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  5. Posted · Edited by JonnieBlaze

    Hey Everyone.

    I bought these 8 Inch Peerless SLS speakers a year ago to put in my Neon. I bought them because I was told if I could fit an 8 inch woofer in my door, there was absolutely no reason to go with a 6.5 inch woofer. Well I recently bought a used 2005 Subaru Forester and I can’t figure out any way at all to install my 8 inch Peerless woofers. My question is, would I really loose a lot of the punchy bass that I love if I go down to a 6.5 inch woofer in my doors?

    My doors will be sealed and deadened. I have 4 inch peerless midranges and seas tweeters that I’m hoping to install in some custom kickpanels. They’ll be running off an alpine H701 for a 3way active with 4 8 inch Sundown subs in the back. I really like the higher, very punchy bass and I’m afraid if I go down to a 6.5 inch woofer I won’t be able to achieve that.

    Secondly, I know you all love the MLI-65 from mach, but how does it compare to this 6.5 inch peerless? The peerless has more excursion so would that mean it would give me more of the bass I’m looking for? *Edit* --> The max I can go is 7 inches dia and 3.5 inches deep. Maybe there are some other woofers that would be better at giving me the bass I want than these two?

    I wasn’t planning on installing any rear speakers, but would adding a second pair of 6.5 woofers to the backdoors completely mess up all my imaging or would it help a little to give me back some of the bass I’ll be missing from the 8s?

    Thanks for the help!

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  7. Posted

    I've been searching for a while but can't find what I'm really looking for. I'm looking for a headunit with about the same capabilities as the H701.

    Currently I have Peerless 8s in my doors (going to seal my doors soon), seas tweeters and 4 inch speakers in sealed kickpanels, and four Sundown audio 8inch subs on the rear deck with a sealed box under them.

    I planned on 3 way active front stage and the subs (so would that be 4 way? haha..idk). I bought the H701 and controller from a guy on here last year but I'm not done with the install yet so I havent started using the H701. I need a new headunit because my old alpine is dying slowly. I've been searching around for a headunit that will have most of the same features I'd need for my setup that the H701 has. That way I could get rid of the H701 to reduce the size and complexity of the install a little (the system is only staying in this car for another 6 months or so then I have to get a new car). Before I bought the H701...the Pioneer 880prs, H701, and RF 360.2 were all recommended to me. I decided to go with the H701 because I felt it had more capabilities than the others. But now I'm wondering if maybe the 880prs (or 800prs) would truly be good enough for what I'm doing.

    I dont know what other information you'd need to know about my setup. I'm not competing...but was striving toward the best sound I could personally afford. I know the install is the most important piece of any audio system. So lets not go there...You've all lectured me on that already about a year ago :fing34: haha. Maybe the H701 is truly too much for what I need. I dont know. I've never gone this far with an install before so I'm not sure what all the H701 has to offer or even how much tuning I will need to do. Maybe it offers too much for just a non-competing non-audiophile install and I could downgrade a little. I honestly do not know. I feel my install is good enough to truly impress me if tuned correctly, so I want to have something at least good enough for that. But it doesnt have to be competition quality unless there is a headunit with that amount of capabilities. I cannot afford anything over about $800 or so and I would gladly buy used. So any ideas? Or could anyone predict how much tuning I'm really going to want to do with an install like this? Will I use the all the features of something like the H701? Could I go with a good headunit and be happy?

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  9. Posted

    He was one of the best sellers I've dealt with. He had great communication, documented everything, and gave pics of the H701 and controller before he shipped it so I could see how it was packaged. He did much more than expected and the H701 came in great condition just like he described. Thanks a lot!

    -Jonnie

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  10. Posted

    ur wanting to get a fused distro right?

    Yeah, if I go the distribution block way. I was just thinking instead of spending $40 on distribution blocks, go ahead and spend an extra $50 to get an extra battery for the back and I wouldn't need the distribution block because everything could be hooked directly up to one post on the battery. But I wasn't thinking that every power wire leaving the battery would need its own fuse. But I guess it would still be best to get a fused distrobution block even if I do get an extra battery. So since I need the block whether I get a battery or not, I won't get the battery...I was just getting it so I could play longer without the car on. Maybe I'll get one later...who knows.

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  11. Posted

    Hey everyone,

    I need a distribution block that will input 1/0 gauge wire and output two 4 gauge wires and two 8 gauge wires. Or alternatively a distribution block that will input a 1/0 gauge wire and output three 4 gauge wires then another block that will input a 4 gauge wire and output two 8 gauge wires.

    But what I'm thinking, is just for a little more money I can get a second battery, hook the 1/0 gauge up to the positive post, then hook all the other wires up to the positive post without a need for the distribution blocks. I'd be spending just a little more money (the smallest powermaster battery on ebay is about $90..not sure if that'd even be beneficial) but I'd be getting another battery and not these distribution blocks.

    Now would I need fuses on the two 4 gauge and the two 8 gauge wires that'd be directly on the battery or would the two fuses on the 1/0 gauge from the first battery be enough?

    I'm not looking at this from the standpoint of "I have so many things that I need more batteries!" I'm just thinking it would be worth the couple extra bucks to get the battery instead of buying distribution blocks.

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  13. Posted · Edited by JonnieBlaze

    Does anyone have any experience with this Tang Band for a midrange? Zaphaudio.com gives it a good review:

    This is a very wide bandwith driver that could work as a small woofer, a dedicated midrange or even a full range driver provided a filter is used to tame the top end. This driver's breakup node above 10kHz does not propagate as harmonic distortion lower in frequency, meaning you can cross it over as high as you want. Harmonic distortion is merely average, but the smoothness of the response curve is class leading - a fair trade to many. This is a titanium cone, but it exhibits very "non-metal" behaviour due to the thin, light cone with exponential profile. Generally good value and consistency. It has a underhung voice coil that is vented under the spider, a cast frame and great build quality all around. Tested June 2007.

    It gets almost 5 stars in every category.

    The only problems I see are 1) Its not instock until mid July. 2) It is an 8ohm speaker that wants 25w RMS and 50w Max. My amp is rated for 75w RMS at 4 ohms. So putting the 8ohm speaker on there would drop the 75w down a bit...but even if I kept my gain all the way down would it be too much for the speaker?

    In all honesty I dont know what to look for when picking frontstage speakers. I'm just looking around to see what other people recommend.

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  14. Posted · Edited by JonnieBlaze

    Ok, so the peerless is back in stock. I'll probably get two of them for the front doors.

    What about the midrange and tweeters?

    For tweeters I saw someone recommending these Seas 27TFFNC/G (H1396)

    Any other tweeters you all would recommend over these in the $30 range or below?

    As for midrange I have no clue. I've seen soooo many different recommendations that I'm really lost. Everybody likes something different. So i figure if I could just see some of the favorites around here I'll just pick one. For budget I'm thinking around $50 a piece. Size...6.5 or smaller...I'll custom mount these since I have no factory locations. Speaking of mounting...would it be absolutely horrible to put these in the dash (close to the windshield) aiming backward to the back of the car? I really dont have much room for kicks so I'm looking for alternatives. I even thought about molding them to the bottom of the dash right above the kicks but that doesnt leave much knee room. Any other ideas on that?

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  15. Posted

    I'm planning for 3-way. I have a 4 channel amp for the tweeters and mids (havent picked them out yet).

    I'm trying to figure out what midbass I want then I'll get an amp for that.

    I already have the subs and mono amp so thats covered.

    I can't find any XLS's right now. Maybe some will show up in the next few weeks. I'm checking out the daytons's now...

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  16. Posted

    If you can fit an 8, there is NO reason to look at 6.5's. The SLS isn't discontinued, but Peerless hasn't been delivering very well since going through the acquisition.

    Alright..then 8 it is. Now, when you say peerless hasnt been delivering very well...do you mean they are just slow shipping things out, or their products have been slacking as of late?

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  18. Posted

    I really doubt anyone here has heard the SB.

    What do you think the reason for that is? Is it because the peerless is a better midbass option out of the two?

    Are there other midbasses in this price range ($50-60 a piece) that would do better in a sealed door than this peerless? Depth should be 5.5" or under and nothing bigger than an 8" diameter (6.5 preferably). Will be getting the H701 sometime soon. Amp will be decided on later.

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  19. Posted

    looking at zaphaudio.com, this SB Acoustic speaker is the best bang for the buck around $50 a piece. But I've seen a lot of people mention this Peerless speaker as well.

    The only negative I can find is the SB speaker is 8 ohms so I'd have to find a slightly larger amp to give them their full 60w @ 8 ohms compared to the peerless which need 50W @ 4 ohms. Not necessarily a negative I know...I just read up on why higher impedance is not bad.

    No place around here has these speakers so I can't really listen to them and determine for myself which I like better. Anyone have any input on these two? If I buy a set, they'll be installed in my front doors running off a 4 channel amp (not sure what amp yet).

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  20. Posted

    SRT-4 also has silver door pulls on the inside, but these panels are built on the regular Neon panels and have handles that match the panel color. They were made for 6.5" mids and housed CDT es-6s originally and then ES-06+s. They are painted silver to match my car/radio trim and the tweeter pods are as well. There's a pic of them somewhere, I think in the build log section, but I can't see the pics (blocked on my gov't computer).

    EDIT: Pics in this thread: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=8474

    Those look nice. Are the panels sealed or do they open up into the door to allow more air space? Just curious.

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  22. Posted · Edited by JonnieBlaze

    Yeah, there is a 360.2 amp on ebay right now. Not sure if that's really what it is supposed to be called (360.2) but its there.

    I measured my mounting depth in my front doors. 2 inches with no baffle. 3 inches with stock plastic baffle. Making my own baffle I can bring it out to about 4 or 4.5 inches. 4 would be best, less likely to be kicked, and 4.5 is doable, and 5 is just pushing it. 5 would be doable if I put some good strong grilles in front of the speaker.

    I went to the local shop today and looked at the eclipse 7200 and alpine 9887. I did not like the eclipse...the little background pictures and movement ticked me off cuz I could barely see the readout on top of the background. The alpine seemed pretty awesome, but a great deal cheaper. Not sure if that shows that its not a top of the line HU or not. But it was very straight forward and plain, not much background movement and easy to read. I couldnt find the pioneer 800 prs anywhere in town. I really wanted to see that one.

    So which head unit do you all suggest? I want something with axillary rca inputs, good processing, usb would be nice so I could attach a small harddrive to it, and a plain easy to read display without fighter jets flying around in the background cough*eclipse*cough. Bluetooth and Ipod control seems nice, but is not on my priority list.

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  24. Posted · Edited by JonnieBlaze

    I looked up the vehicle online somewhere and that's what it listed. I've always wanted to try making a fiberglass panel...so I'd say the 3" depth is very negotiable. I know for a fact they can come further into the cabin away from the door another 2 inches before they would get in the way. I can find out exactly how much I have inside the door tonight.

    So what are some other processing units that might work in my case?

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  25. Posted

    Ok...

    I got a 2000 Dodge Neon for my commuting car. Speaker sizes are: 6.5x3 in door, 3.5x2 in dash, 6x9xwhatever in rear deck. I plan on removing the 6x9s and building my box for my sundown e8's into the rear deck. Speakers in the rear are kinda pointless anyway right?

    So processing first right? Now that you know what kind of car it is, what would you suggest? I think I want to stick with a separate unit like that RF 360.2 so that it doesnt matter what headunit i get, I can still have good processing. I doubt I will do this, but there is a possibility I'll build a car pc and that would have no processing I figure, so a separate unit would be a must. My problem is the RF 360.2 is so expensive. Even on ebay it is over 300 dollars. Are there any other options? I dont need/want the best of the best. This will be my daily driver and I just want something that will sound good.

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