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JonnieBlaze

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Posts posted by JonnieBlaze

  2. Posted

    So component sets are not the way to go? because they include passive crossovers?

    Alright, so I need active crossovers before I get the midbasses. This should not require knowledge of what vehicle I will be putting everything in, so I should be able to find crossovers that will work in my application fairly easily.

    The crossovers on the amp are not going to cut it I take it. So what crossovers should I be looking at?

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  3. Posted

    A great mid-bass option for your budget is the MLI-65 speaker from Mach 5 audio.

    36$ for a pair iirc.

    I just saw these on the website this morning and was curious about them. Glad to hear they are good.

    I have another questions I've been wondering about. If I'm going to be upgrading all my speakers anyway, why should I buy midbass speakers, tweeters ,and crossovers seperately when I could just buy a component set that offers all three? Am I heading down the wrong path? Should I be considering component sets instead of buying everything piece by piece?

    This is pretty far off topic now...I might have to start a new one in the speaker section soon.

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  7. Posted · Edited by JonnieBlaze

    Alright...

    Well I found these for midbass drivers: CSS SDX7. Anyone know if they are any good (they say woofer but would they actually be midbass)? They are out of my price range, but I'm not sure what to look for so its kinda hard finding good ones. If anyone has some recommendations let me know please. I dont care about size or anything, I just want to be able to look at a a few.

    Secondly, back to the top of the thread. The JBL Crown amp was suggested previously for the subs. What is another amp that has good dampening factor that would work well with midbass drivers? JL and JBL/Crown are the only companies I can find that list dampening factors....I was just curious as to some other ones.

    Thanks for everyone's help so far

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  8. Posted · Edited by JonnieBlaze

    You need to know what space you have before you can choose anything.

    I was just looking for suggestions so I can start looking on my own. I'll find out later what will fit or not..I dont even have the car yet. I just want to start looking at what you all recommend as good midbass drivers.

    The primary negative detractors will be the inductance of the voice coil, the enclosure, the vehicle's transfer function, the power on tap, and the midrange/midbass driver's own performance. All of these things need to be managed appropriately to achieve the response you're looking for. There are secondary detractors (like mass, BL, and others) but these can easily be accounted for or even avoided if the primary detractors are taken care of.

    As for this 'vehicle transfer function'...is this the same as the vehicle's resonant frequency or what not? If i remember correctly, is this when you take a woofer in a sealed enclosure, put it in the middle of your car, and start playing frequencies until you find the frequency that's the loudest on the meter? That would be your vehicle's resonant frequency and it's the loudest because not only is the woofer playing that frequency, but your car is vibrating at that same frequency therefore amplifying the sound?

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  9. Posted

    Midbass recommendations will depend on the processing you have, the mounting location, what drivers you will use with them, and of course your budget.

    Budget: Around 50 or 60 a piece

    Mounting Location: Don't have the car yet..so no idea. The only place upfront that I know of would be the doors. If that didnt work I guess I'd be forced to put them in the back above the rear seats.

    Other Drivers: Well I'm hoping to get a couple of the Sundown 8 inch woofers. Aside from them I'm not sure what other speakers I'll be choosing for the car.

    Processing: Right now I have nothing. Should I pick the drivers out first then go from there?

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  12. Posted

    I dont have the car yet. I'm trying to find something better on gas so I'm sure it'll be some sort of sedan...I just want to be ready for it.

    Now, hypothetically, say I was putting it in my blazer. Upfront I have two 4.5" Boston Accoustics and two 6.5" Boston Accoustics. Its not very much and its all coming from the headunit but it does ok. I would love not to have subs taking up all my space if this 80Hz-100Hz was achievable without them. I'd probably still get some small 8's however just to round it all out.

    So what's the story on midbass? Do they need enclosures too? What would be a good budget midbass driver? I was looking at four 8inch woofers for 240...so I guess 'budget' to me is about 60 a piece.

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  13. Posted

    I would go on line and find a used JBL/Crown BPX amplifier if you were after

    seriously tight bass on a low budget...they have an effective damping factor

    almost 20X higher than the conventional class D amplifier

    So would this amp be something you'd suggest: JBL Amp

    I just didnt think JBL was very good. I thought Kicker was higher quality than JBL. However, I just got done talking to Kicker's R&D lab and they dont have any dampening or slew rate specs. At least this JBL lists the dampening factor.

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  14. Posted

    What I want is something that will reproduce the 80Hz to 100Hz range very accurately. This is what you feel when your at a concert and the drummer is using the kick drum. You feel it pound in your chest.

    I've never been able to replicate this.

    My goal was to use 8's (sundown's E8s seem to be some of the best around?...I thought the 8s would play these frequencies better without being overly loud, just accurate) and install them in the board behind the back seat of my car where the stock speakers are. I would build the sealed enclosure (or whatever box would be better to achieve this goal) under the speakers hanging down into the trunk space. That way they are not stashed in the trunk and you can clearly hear/feel them without putting the back seats down.

    For anything under the 80Hz range maybe I will one day get some 12s or something and place them in the trunk.

    Any suggestions for achieving this?

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  15. Posted

    1- your amp is junk, you are probably driving it into clipping which surely doesn't help

    Agreed. I need a better amp. Thats what I was asking about

    2 - your box, your box, your box ---99% of all issues are install related and I am sure yours is

    Again I agree. But with it being sealed and very close to the manufactor spec for a sealed box, shouldnt this have a very small effect? Seal boxes have the capability to get lower but not neccessary as loud as ported right? and they also have more tolerance for error because of the air acting as a spring keeping the sub from damage?

    3 - your expectations of the CW might be a bit high although that is surely not your fundamental problem

    I know they are not the best, but in all honesty I'm not too interested in making them much better. They've been out of the car for two years and they'll probably stay that way. My concern is with the new woofers. I'm still going to go with the 8's but I want to make sure I dont mess up the install this time. That why I'm looking for help with the amp decision.

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  16. Posted

    I'm not sure what you're doing with this equation, but if you're trying to figure out if one sub moves more air than another sub, you need to take into account the Excursion of the sub as well.

    If sub x and y have the same surface area, but sub x reaches to 20 mm and sub y only reaches to 10mm....sub x is obviously moving more air.

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  17. Posted

    Just for background information: I use to have two 12 inch Cerwin Vega's (bought in '03, no idea was model) rated for 400w rms. They are 4 ohms, single voice coil. I have them in a sealed enclosure. It was not made to spec, but it was the closest premade box I could find to spec. I think each woofer wanted something like 2.1 ft^3 or something. Lastly, I bought a cheap amp..Boss Ripper 995. Below are the specs on the amp:

    2- Channel MOSFET Power Amplifier

    Power Max (2 Ohm) 500w x 4

    Power RMS (4 Ohm) 260w x 4

    Power Bridged: 1000w x 2

    Tri-Mode

    VU meters [power level]

    Cooling fans

    Remote subwoofer level control

    Line and speaker level inputs

    MOSFET power supply

    Line outputs

    Variable high & low pass crossovers

    Fain control

    Power and Protection LEDs

    0~180 degree variable phase shift control

    Bass Boost 0 - +18 dB

    S/N Ratio: > 105 dB

    T.H.D. 0.01%

    Now to the issue. I remember this setup being very muddy and not very tight sounding. In my own mind, I decided it was the size of the woofers and to get a quicker tighter sound I needed something smaller that would move faster...such as 8 inch woofers. But I'd need several of those to make up for the lost surface area and excursion of the 12's. So I decided 4 eights should do the trick. But then I talked to a guy that installs system for a living and he tells me about the dampening factor and slew rate of amps. He says my boss amps lacks any good dampening and slew rate and that's why I get the muddy sound. The amp just can't recover quick enough after a hard hitting bass note. He said my Cerwin Vegas would sound much better if I just get a better amp.

    So now I'm kinda stuck. I was looking at Kicker amps because they are right in my price range. To power two 8 inch woofers i was going to use one Kicker 750.1 But they dont list slew rate or dampening factor and their tech support doesnt know it either (waiting for the R&D lab to call me back) I want the best bang for my buck. I know there is always something better out there but I dont need the best of the best. I just want something that will give me the tighter bass. Suggestions?

    Something else to note, on JL Audio's website (out of my price range..), their amps have better dampening factors at higher ohm loads:

    >500 @ 4 ohm / 50 Hz

    >250 @ 2 ohm / 50 Hz

    Would this be the same for all amps? Comparing a kicker amp hooked up to a sub at 4 ohms and the same amp hooked up to a sub at 2 ohms, would the 4 ohm setup have the better feel because it has the higher dampening factor? Because if the 4 ohm load gives a tighter feel to the bass, then I wont go with a mono amp and run it at 2 ohms.....I'll get a 2 channel amp and give each sub its own channel at 4 ohms.

    Sorry for the length of this post..I just really need some answers.

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  20. Posted · Edited by JonnieBlaze

    F3 is where the sound drops by 3 db right?

    so with the 0.280 ft^3 box, anything less than 50 Hz is going to be pretty quiet (unless you have many drivers).

    what would the F3 be of the .35 ft^3 box?

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  22. Posted

    I thought the punchy bass was just a higher frequency sound therefore an 8 inch woofer would replicate that higher frequency better than a 12. But I take it that's incorrect?

    So with these new 8 inch woofers being created here, what kind of box would produce the sound i'm looking for? I've only ever had sealed enclosures (because I assumed they gave the tightest feeling bass). I thought ported box just gave the loud boomy bass so I never wanted them. I thought bandpass boxes were designed for speakers that you were under-powering. And I know nothing about infinite baffle.

    All I know is what I'm looking for...but I'm not sure how to get it.

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  23. Posted

    I didnt want to clutter up the thread that was talking about the upcoming E8 woofer but I had some questions about it in relation to other sized woofers. I can not find anyplace in my town that sells or even has 8 inch woofers on display so I can hear. I have no idea what kind of bass come from the 8 inch woofers. All I'm familar with is the bass that comes from my two 12 inch Cerwin Vegas in a sealed enclosure. I'm looking for something punchier (the bass from the 12s seems muddy) but I still want it to get as loud at the lower frequencies as my 12s do (so I'm looking at 4 of these E8s). I just need to know if the 8s will deliver this punchier bass....i'm assuming they do but again I've never heard any 8 inch woofer...

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  24. Posted

    Hey everyone,

    I have a couple questions about this 8 inch woofer. A few years ago I was going to put 4 or so 8 inch woofers together in the back of my blazer. I don't care much for the muddy, deep, SPL contest bass, I like the quick punchy bass with good SQ. I had 2 12 inch Cerwin Vegas in a sealed enclosure and that was very muddy sounding. At that time, according to the Great 8 Challenge the CMP8 was the best SQ in the 8 inch range. I also remember considering the TangBand 8 inch woofers. I don't completely understand all the T/S specs so its hard for me to compare the 8 inch woofer you are creating with the CMP8 or the TB8. So I'm just wondering how they stand up against the CMP8 I guess. How are they different? Can these 8's take the place of the two 12's I have now by keeping the low frequencies but being more punchy..?

    sorry for my ignorance in all this..lol

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