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whitey

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Posts posted by whitey

  1. Posted · Edited by whitey

    alright i will re explain the wiring to my understanding:

     

    configuration 1) i had each subwoofer's coils, wired together in parallel, red to red, black to black. each sub had a pos/neg lead on one voice coil, and i used another 2 wires to jump across to the other coil. each main pos/neg lead goes from the sub, to a terminal on the back of the box.from the amp at the terminal i have the neg wire hooked to one terminal, and the pos hooked to the other terminal with a jump wire going in between.

     

    configuration 2) i had each sub's coils wired with the pos lead to the poa of coil A, and the neg to coil B and a jumper between the remaining push terminals.each sub has it's own terminal in the box. outside the box, each terminal had it's own wires providing power; no jumper wires going between since my amp has 2 pos and 2 neg terminals. ( not a 2 channel )

     

    configuration 3) voice coils in parallel, terminals outside in parallel.

     

    i thought configuration 1 was a 4 ohm load, configuration 2 was a 2 ohm load and configuration 3 was a 1 ohm load. 

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  4. Posted

    i just got a new box built for my subs ( 2 12 inch dual 2 ohm L5 kickers in a 6.5-7 cube box tuned to 35 htz). i picked it up from the guy and set my amp at 25 htz with the gain set at about half way from what i can see on the dial. first, i must say it sounded amazing! i was running a 3.3 cube box that was kinda jimmy rigged together by the guy i bought them from so this is exquisite great sound, good range and a ton of sound pressure. if anyone needs a box built in central to eastern washington/ central idaho let me know i'll get you in contact with triticum audio.

     

    ok, so the guy that built my box also installed the subs and wired in at a 4 ohm load. about a week after i got them home i got curious and pulled the subs out and switched everything to a 2 ohm load. it sounded awesome. great lows, tons of pressure and great sound quality. next time i had it going and my amp kept shutting off at mid to high volume and it sounded like i had a couple of crap tens in cardboard boxes. never had this issue. i'm running a kenwood amp rated at 500rms@ 4 ohm, 900rms@ 2ohm and they were even advertised to be 1 ohm stable. i have 1/0 power cable and 2/0 ground with solid copper terminals on both ends cause i filed down a set of terminals to actually bolt into my amp. i replaced my body ground with a piece of 1/0 instead of the 4 gauge i have for my big 3. changed the subs back to 4 ohms. i'm still not picking up the really low frequencies i was getting. tuned it in, and it sounded decent. tried running at 1 ohm and blew out 2 fuses simultaneously. back to 4 ohms.

     

                                                  NO CLUE WHATS HAPPENING!!!!!

    is my amp taking a crap? could it be my off the shelf kenwood deck? could it just be my subs? do you have to acoustically reference each sub according to which voicecoil produces what?

                                                               NO CLUE!!!!!

     

     

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  6. Posted

    what is the big 3? my main amp power lines are huge for the sake of upgradability. my ground wire is bolted to the unibody where i ground all the paint off and i put a larger ground wire from the unibody to the battery. I dont ever plan on leaving the mismatched combo of amps, i just had the smaller amp and 2 tens sittin around awaiting installation into my wife's car. under normal condition with just my kenwood amp running i barely experience any voltage drop unless i'm running the drivers real hard, which makes my headlights dim slightly. its all hooked up in my 94 grand cherokee. i figured that maybe an even larger battery like a 1000 cca optima MIGHT cure my voltage issue in the current setup, but like i said i plan on getting another amp like the one i currently have and possibly upgrading to a good set of 15 inch drivers. i just dont want to fry my alternator if i can avoid it.

     

    after a quick websearch i think my issue is that my currentalternator is only capable of around 70 to 90 amps.

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  7. Posted

    I was dinkin with my stereo today. i usually run my kenwood 900/1 to my 2 12 inch kicker L5s. they hit pretty dang good. i got curious and daisy linked my alpine 350/1 ( I know its probably a bad idea to link mis matched amps like that but i was bored ) and hooked up my 2 10 inch rockford fosgates. it was VERY loud. i had it all the way up and looked at my alt gauge and it had dropped from over 14 to nearly 9 volts. just for future reference since i plan on buying a matching kenwood amp to what i have and running both, should i use a capacitor or just get a second battery? my alternator is pretty new and i have a brand spankin new 800 cca battery. my amp is wired with #2 extra high strand welding lead which is the equivalent i believe to 2 awg or bigger. resistance is not an issue and is futile

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  8. Posted

    Yes, there are many online calculators. The best source to understand the reasonings and the actual formulas is Vance Dickason's "Loudspeaker Cookbook 7th edition". It can be found on Amazon.

    Use the search function on the top right of this forum and search minimum port area. Use my name in the search, you'll find I have posted the formulas many times.

    i've searched a bit and still cant find a post with this formula

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  10. Posted

    heres a question; is there any kind of mathematical formula or equation i can follow that allows me to calculate port dimension according to desired tuning frequency and enclosure volume? i went through the pinned post for new members that outlines alot of these topics but nothing i found directly related to my issue

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  11. Posted

    a quick search showed the jeep having 80 cubic feet of cabin space. and i also agree on kickers performing well in a mainstream box. my brother in law has a good set of kicker cvx or cwr or something in a prefab kicker box with a 500.1 kicker amp wired at 2 ohms and he KILLS me on low frequency performance. his setup is in a 98 legacy wagon. i know i have much higher spl by far but like i said, i want to get better tone. on the flipside a was able to flex my windshield enough to make my mirror fall off, which is cool in my book. sorry i'm a long winded sob

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  12. Posted

    yes, I know kicker isn't a real high end brand but i got an excellent deal on 2 12 inch L5s and a kenwood kac 9152D 900 rms mono amp. the guy i bought them from built a very piss poor box out of subflooring material and basically gestimated a slotted port dimension. the box performs about as well as a dual brand bandpass box. he was using a head unit with a very good EQ and in his integra the drivers performed well all things considered. in my jeep however, they only operate (I'm guessing here) in the 50 to 65 hz range well and only give me a bit of a hum in the low range. now, I know you can still get a good low end response out of a set of 12s. I've witnessed this. I've built a few enclosures before for other people using factory specs on the drivers provided, but in this case i want to really put some time and effort into it and further impress my kicker crazy brother in laws until I can afford something really extravagent ( maybe a set of FI's or something? ).  does  any one on here have experience with these kickers or else get me going in the right direction? I'm an amatuer in my knowledge and understanding of box building. I can provide almost any bit of info on the drivers upon request. NO, I'M NOT going to throw them away and go spend 1000 dollars i don't have on some crazy awesome drivers. thats what i've been told on other sites so far

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  13. Posted

    If you go to reaudio.com they have a box builder program on there site, all you have to do is input the measurements that you have to work with, and it will calculate the box volume and what hrtz it is tuned at just play around with different width ports and measurements untill you come up with the proper cubic feet and tuning for what ever subs you are going to run.

    ok cool thanx

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  14. Posted

    Those subs need power, if you decided you must keep them. your quickest and cheapest ways to the power you will require would be i think:

    autotek mm4000.1d's

    crunch gp 3000pros

    MA hk 4000's

    lanzer opti 4000d's

    you will HAVE to buy a bigger alt, and batteries also 1 gauge wire, welding wire is fine. You could run 4000 watts to the pair but i would suggest more. as for batteries you would be looking at 1-2 per amp besides your main battery under the hood.

    alright. but back to my other question, can someone give me a good basic box design? just need a box that i could possibly put in an suv.

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  15. Posted · Edited by whitey

    you bought them for 80 il buy them both for 400 ;)

    ye-no. these are minz no way. i'll find a way to use them.

    lol, I don't see why you want to keep them so much. Selling them will definitely help you finance a setup with SSDs. You might even have extra cash to buy some goodies, like a new HU. Hes offering you five times more then what you paid for, you're essentially making $320 for nothing. :]

    But yes, I would look into the SSDs. Sounds like you want a street beater.

    have you ever had a candy bar, or an ice cream or something that no matter what you wouldnt give anyone a bite of? thats whats going on with these 18s. but if im selling them my buddys got dibs already so sorry. 99% of me says they're staying

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  17. Posted

    Like I said, the Fi SSDs are great street beaters, and one Sundown SAZ-1500D will power both of them nicely. Since its an ex-police car, it should have a bigger alternator then the regular street trim already, probably about 110 amps or so. This means that if you do a good wiring job, and everything else is peachy, the 1500D should lay down about 1500-1600 watts at 1 ohm. The two SSDs will slam on that power, given the proper box.

    yeah thats a pretty good idea i just looked those ssd subs up on the fi website and they dont look like i thought they would. yeah i think those would suit my needs.

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  18. Posted

    Calm down for a sec guy, You could build a box to the proper specs in the space you have, but like everyone is teling you they need alot of power. From what I've been hearing around 3000 watts true rms, also your going to need to run 0AWG back to what ever amps you buy to supply the current you need, that alone will run you around $150.00. You could buy 2 Ma Audio HC4000-D's for around $500 a piece on ebay but you would have to spend about the same amount or more upgrading the power system to get them to produce the wattage you are lookin for. Thats the problem with running high current amps at low ohms they use alot of power and you end up spending the same if not more money upgrading the elec. system.

    oh. ok yeah that does make sense. i thought today was international talk chit to me day ha ha. dam. well, what good 15's are on the market nowadays if you dont mind me asking?

    Why not sell one of the Btl's. Than with your 1000 or so dollars buy a h/o alt, an amp kit and a sundown saz-1500d.

    yeah i guess i can do that. idk i might just sell both and get a couple of fifteens. i really like the sound of two fifteens. if i bought a set of fifteeens with around, say 2000 watts peak my electrical system could handle it, right?

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  19. Posted

    Calm down for a sec guy, You could build a box to the proper specs in the space you have, but like everyone is teling you they need alot of power. From what I've been hearing around 3000 watts true rms, also your going to need to run 0AWG back to what ever amps you buy to supply the current you need, that alone will run you around $150.00. You could buy 2 Ma Audio HC4000-D's for around $500 a piece on ebay but you would have to spend about the same amount or more upgrading the power system to get them to produce the wattage you are lookin for. Thats the problem with running high current amps at low ohms they use alot of power and you end up spending the same if not more money upgrading the elec. system.

    oh. ok yeah that does make sense. i thought today was international talk chit to me day ha ha. dam. well, what good 15's are on the market nowadays if you dont mind me asking?

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  20. Posted

    You don't deserve those BTL's talking like that..

    its not that im unwilling to spend alot of money, i just really want to hear them now. not in a couple of months, right now. can someone just tell me a good box design? it doesnt have to fit in my car, i have other places to put them. dont worry about my electrical systems, just tell me what i want to know.

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  21. Posted

    You'll need a bigger alt., to supply power for your car's electronics, and now two or one high powered amp. You'll also probably need a set or two of some deep cycle batteries. I'd assume that on the crown vic you could go all the way up to an 300 amp alt.

    idk about all that. my friend had 2 fifteen inch RF power t2s with a 2400 x 2 power acoustic amp in an 87 crown vic with a beasty capacitor. what if i just bought a mean ass capacitor like his, which is pretty much a small battery, would that compensate for much? cuz his car barely had one alternater and a chitty battery. i just want mine to get working first, then upgrade to bigger and better chit

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  22. Posted

    i found the speakers at a yard sale-no joke. if some one is selling that kind of equipment not knowing what it is at 80 bucks, you dont pass up that kind of deal.

    Are you saying you bought BTL 18's for $80???????

    that is exactly what im saying. i saw a yard sale, decided to check it out, and i saw two humungous subs that said FI on the cone. i asked how much and the old man said 80. i have no clue how he got them and i didnt care to ask. believe it or not i dont care. i thought i was dreaming when i bought them

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  23. Posted

    I'd like to see how you are going to get 18-20 (external dim) cubic feet in the trunk of that car...regrettably it isn't really possible.

    You have two choices: Lose the back seat or part of it, or sell your drivers and get something else.

    Also, as stated $800 isn't going to cut the mustard to power those. That will barely cover what you need to do on the electrical side to support them. Get ready to at least double that number, but you will probably even need more yet. Then once you add the custom work to your seat and back area, you are going to need even more cash.

    i have prepped my electrical system though. its ghetto, but it works kinda. i did some fabricating and doubled up on the stock alternaters and added an optima battery. besides, these are subwoofers, not a nucleor reactor.

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  24. Posted

    I'd like to see how you are going to get 18-20 (external dim) cubic feet in the trunk of that car...regrettably it isn't really possible.

    You have two choices: Lose the back seat or part of it, or sell your drivers and get something else.

    Also, as stated $800 isn't going to cut the mustard to power those. That will barely cover what you need to do on the electrical side to support them. Get ready to at least double that number, but you will probably even need more yet. Then once you add the custom work to your seat and back area, you are going to need even more cash.

    like i said, the car is gutted. no back seats. i got lots of room. and i found the speakers at a yard sale-no joke. if some one is selling that kind of equipment not knowing what it is at 80 bucks, you dont pass up that kind of deal. i currently have 800, but thats just my side money i saved up over a few months. i dont have bills, being a teenager. just give me an idea im looking for the best bang for my buck. if i wanted people to talk chit, i would quit community college and go back to high school

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  25. Posted · Edited by whitey

    The BTL isn't something you can just give recommendations without knowing a few more things about what you have.

    So how about a little more information on your part? All we know so far is you have 2 BTL 18" woofers.

    if i knew more i would tell you but i honestly dont. these are my first fi's let alone 18s. what info do you need? i got two btls with no amp and no box looking to put them in a gutted 98 crown vic x police car if they'll fit. i was using cheap amps and ghetto ass boxes for my last set up which was two older RF 15 inch punch's but nothing from that set up will really work for my new application. i know a bit about bass systems, but not that much. i have around 800 bucks and several sheets of 3/4'' and a few sheets of 1/2'' mdf. not looking to be made a fool of, i really just want to do this right.

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