Heisenberg

5 and a half is .25 cubes over the recomended size. I could go to five cubes and be within suggested size.

well i wanted to stay at 15's but it seemed like there wasnt room. I dont need to do 6 and a half cubes, but I cold if I needed to. How about 5.5 cubes with a huge port.

A fully loaded BL would put up with the power better than a fully loaded Q? why? how do their motors compare.

Good thread Mine are: The Zv4's Or SP4's Exited to see what everyone elses are. Edit: Fi Teams are redic.

bumpin it just cause she's pretty.

More... Keep them coming guys. Let's see em.

Yes please.

6 Cubic foot box went as follows: Height: 17 in Width: 39.5 in Depth: 24 in Port was 5 7/8 in wide. At 33.5 hrz I can fit 35" of depth probably if not more, building it inside the car. No more height. and not a whole lot more width either.

Im stubborn. I like 15's alot...I like the characteristics they have. Building it inside the car I can get considerably more depth in my max dimensions. I would say there's another two cubes to be had just by being neurotic about using all the space there is to be had. I have a box at 6 cubes that I know will fit the trunk, but cant fit inside the opening Current box is like 5.4 cubes and fits in the opening with room on all sides except the height. I bet I can get a 7-9 cubic foot box in there.

Headunit chosen: 80prs Alpines were black and charred beyond belief Couple subwoofer options to get back on track. Thinking of doing two 15's again They need to deal with 4k. Also cosidering FI, soundqubed. lets hear some suggestions, I have only had ethos throw at me sofar

I cant give them nearly as much room as they want. not even the 12's Sundown X's like little boxes and you gotta love that excursion. Sundown Xs do not like small boxes. Id say 2.25 minimum. 2.75 to 3 is good for them. I was going I put mine on 3.25 each but selling them soon. I can fit a 6 cubic foot box.

Welp, now the new sub debate will be fastracked. ten min ago i was slappin, heard a difference. opened the trunk. Smoke rolling out of the port like you wouldn't believe. I will take some shots of the coil as Im sure they are black as night. sounds like one of them unwound. But I think both subs are blown. So yeah, that's what my morning is looking like.

I cant give them nearly as much room as they want. not even the 12's Sundown X's like little boxes and you gotta love that excursion.

yeah these alpines are great. but a 2.5 inch voicecoil does't like 2000 watts rms. the parts are starting to run away from eachother on 700. lol

So a little update and question. today was the first day I had both amps running in the car. Wired the amp to see 4 ohms. which is 1400 watts. turned the gain a quarter way and sat down with my ipod. It very quickly became apparent that the subs cant take it at 4 ohms. (I thought I would run it at 1 ohm..HA) Coils got very stinky very quick. thought I might be clipping so I turned the system off. didnt have much time to play with the amp settings but it drops off significantly above 50 hrz. which is weird. also my voltage drop was scary(at 4 ohms) I saw 11.7 volts. I knew these subs would be outmatched but I heard them bottom out more than once at less than half gain. the amp is acting weird on me and i need your guys help when the sun comes up. Can i wire above 4 ohms? with two D4's

Im wondering if the signal voltage will be sufficiently boosted by the http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27392_PAC-LD-10.html. Will this line driver take the place of a healthy 4.5 pre-out voltage that would be otherwise coming from a deck? I have heard the headphone jack of an ipod has 60 miliamps of current at full volume and im trying to boost that up to what would come out of a deck, effectively eliminating the deck. And if It can supply that voltage, can I max it out to ten volts and then run two Y splitters off of the output side of the line driver? giving me two sets of RCA's at 5 volts off of one ipod headphone jack? thanks all

so with that in mind, these THD ratings I have been focusing on all this time while amp shopping was a waste? You guys sold me on the pioneer by the way...well you guys and a youtube video of the crossover selection and graphic equalizer. You'l have to help me set it up when I put the order in in a couple weeks. Meantime, don't know what this business is about the crazy floating digital converter onboard the 80prs, but you guys seem to like it.

Also, Some ridiculousness just for everyone that's taking the time. DC 10k DC 5k (I think) AQ3500.1 love... Have to love the Saz-5000 AQ 20k Would shoot a baby deer in the mouth in front of 5 children for this amplifier.

So some options: #1 option Alpine CDE-HD148BT $210 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_66676_Alpine-CDE-HD148BT.html Option #2: Alpine CDE-149BT $250 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68903_Alpine-CDE-HD149BT.html Option #3: Pioneer DEH-80PRS $280 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43523_Pioneer-DEH-80PRS.html So im basically between these three.. Looking for suggestions though. Thanks everyone

A set of alpine(the new one's)-type S 6.5's and a set of type S-6x9's actively crossed over on an RF punch 500.4 (Wouldn't have bought them if I knew alpine switched to a plastic "basket/frame" rather than metal, used to own the old metal basket one's and they were better) Blown away by the sound quality though, especially for the money.

I was concerned with eliminating the 6x9's and thought it wouldn't leave any midbass behind. But on that mids and highs amp, I feel like there's a chance that the 4 factory spots could keep up. and then in rebuild season, adding a dedicated two channel and two sets of silk dome tweeters up front is a possibility. but that's why i'm on here. learning, and gathering ideas

Throwing away my stage? Why not drop the 6.5's and 6x9's in their factory spot and have the rear seats down, to avoid the "compression" problem.

Box was built inside the car in that orientation , so I cant really play with it much besides pulling it closer or farther away from the rear seats. I will rebuild before spring break nationals but I built that box like 2 months ago and Im not quite ready to saw it in half.

Pictures I took a few min ago, just for you guys. to show the car im building. Pardon the mess Watch what I do with this.

In addition to the above posts, a y-splitter does NOT halve the voltage. If you had 10V output and connected a y-splitter, each "leg" of the splitter would still provide 10V. With this in mind, is it possible to use no headunit using the ipod and line driver method. sacrificing volume and EQ control of course. all while giving the two amps healthy input signal? This is the line driver I use with my ipod when I need a test signal. The volume control is nice. It is cheap and works well. They have a two channel version as well. BTW if I was going to use an ipod as a source signal in an installation it would be this route: ipod -> pure i-20 (using optical output) -> dsp I would choose a dsp with an auxiliary display that included a volume control that has sufficient output voltage. The 6to8 V8 comes to mind. My 4 channel could take 8 volts signal voltage but I know the 3500 couldn"t. from the Cache COE8 Two great suggestions though. While I got people on the signal processing topic, this is what is going in the Impaler in 3 weeks. Unless you guys can convince me otherwise. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68903_Alpine-CDE-HD149BT.html Again, ordering this pac LD10 thing was a result of my impatience. even for as little as it cost's, doesn't sound like it was worth buying, but I think i will at least hook it up and try it once at least. Anyway's I like the 80prs as much as the next guy, but I'm always down for Alpine gear whenever I can run it. Plus ^^ at 105db signal to noise ratio, she's clean as jennifer aniston's tits