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Posts posted by phresh
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because the alternator is never going to be able to support u when u r sitting still ... u r going to have to rev ur engine at a light and while coasting down a hill ... its a pain in the ass believe me ... i have a h/o alt and a single battery for the time being ... its terrible and will cause more strain on ur alternator
THANKS!
That was the type of answer i was looking for! Getting the battery!
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because the alternator is never going to be able to support u when u r sitting still ... u r going to have to rev ur engine at a light and while coasting down a hill ... its a pain in the ass believe me ... i have a h/o alt and a single battery for the time being ... its terrible and will cause more strain on ur alternator
THANKS!
That was the type of answer i was looking for! Getting the battery!
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because the alternator is never going to be able to support u when u r sitting still ... u r going to have to rev ur engine at a light and while coasting down a hill ... its a pain in the ass believe me ... i have a h/o alt and a single battery for the time being ... its terrible and will cause more strain on ur alternator
THANKS!
That was the type of answer i was looking for! Getting the battery!
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ya a 135amp alt is already pretty beffy just get a new battery and see how it all works out! and if your system starts to have voltage issue then reconsider a bigger alt, or maybe get a missing link!!!
Sorry about the excessive comments but thats where im stuck at. If i might have to get a bigger alternator then why not spend the money that i would be buying a battery with on a alternator?
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i think shizzon is correct all you mite need is a battery go for the ones he suggested . by the way is this a daily driver if it is you will need a dual alt system which they more then likely do not make. if using it to compete don't forget to add in a battery isolator that you should be able to charge set up off the stock alt if done right with a isolator. just remember you only got a few minutes of play time at full strength with a battery before you got to charge it .so do not get roped in to testing your system before a comp. it should be set when you get there.
just encase you need a alt
i think these alts are better . they got life time warranty's compare to others and they come in 200, 250amps etc... see link below
http://www.motorcityreman.com/high-amp-alternators-ford-cars---trucks-explorer.html
So you would recommend a battery & battery isolator over just a new alternator? Why would I need a extra battery anyways. I thought it would be easier to just use the yellow top up front and a h/o alternator.
And this is just a daily system... no comps at all
idk wtf sadistc is talking about ... u dont need 2 alternators ... you should be fine with just a second battery (preferably one that shawn suggested) ... you need a second battery because at idle your alt will not produce enough current to ur amp ... if u get a second battery it will support ur amp for a longer period of time and ur voltage will not drop as much
Then why not just get a bigger alternator. I thought i read it a million times that would be best in the long run over a battery because i a battery cant produce power? I dont want to put strain on my alternator if I dont need to.
& i didnt pay the dual alternator for 2000 watts MAX idea any mind. Lol
usually the bigger the alternator the less output they produce at idle ... it will also cost more money ... an extra battery will also stabalize ur voltage more ... according to iraggi you shouldnt use an isolator at all ... "for every reason to get an isolator there is 10 bad ones"
Thats a first... get a battery over an alternator. A 200A alternator is around the same price of a Kinetik khc2000
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i think shizzon is correct all you mite need is a battery go for the ones he suggested . by the way is this a daily driver if it is you will need a dual alt system which they more then likely do not make. if using it to compete don't forget to add in a battery isolator that you should be able to charge set up off the stock alt if done right with a isolator. just remember you only got a few minutes of play time at full strength with a battery before you got to charge it .so do not get roped in to testing your system before a comp. it should be set when you get there.
just encase you need a alt
i think these alts are better . they got life time warranty's compare to others and they come in 200, 250amps etc... see link below
http://www.motorcityreman.com/high-amp-alternators-ford-cars---trucks-explorer.html
So you would recommend a battery & battery isolator over just a new alternator? Why would I need a extra battery anyways. I thought it would be easier to just use the yellow top up front and a h/o alternator.
And this is just a daily system... no comps at all
idk wtf sadistc is talking about ... u dont need 2 alternators ... you should be fine with just a second battery (preferably one that shawn suggested) ... you need a second battery because at idle your alt will not produce enough current to ur amp ... if u get a second battery it will support ur amp for a longer period of time and ur voltage will not drop as much
Then why not just get a bigger alternator. I thought i read it a million times that would be best in the long run over a battery because i a battery cant produce power? I dont want to put strain on my alternator if I dont need to.
& i didnt pay the dual alternator for 2000 watts MAX idea any mind. Lol
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i think shizzon is correct all you mite need is a battery go for the ones he suggested . by the way is this a daily driver if it is you will need a dual alt system which they more then likely do not make. if using it to compete don't forget to add in a battery isolator that you should be able to charge set up off the stock alt if done right with a isolator. just remember you only got a few minutes of play time at full strength with a battery before you got to charge it .so do not get roped in to testing your system before a comp. it should be set when you get there.
just encase you need a alt
i think these alts are better . they got life time warranty's compare to others and they come in 200, 250amps etc... see link below
http://www.motorcityreman.com/high-amp-alternators-ford-cars---trucks-explorer.html
So you would recommend a battery & battery isolator over just a new alternator? Why would I need a extra battery anyways. I thought it would be easier to just use the yellow top up front and a h/o alternator.
And this is just a daily system... no comps at all
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2004 Explorer 4.0
Yellow Top
Big 3 will be done in 1/0 when installed
Stock 135A Alternator
2 15" Icons
Sundown 1500
Sundown 100.4
Couple quick questions before I get a alternator & everything installed:
1 - How do I calculate how big of an alternator I need? Ive seen a couple different way but whats most accurate? Also have a 100.4
2 - Would a 200A alternator and a yellow top suffice for the two amps to stay above 13v at idle? I can try 250A if need be.
3 - Anyone ever use qualitypowerauto.com to get an amp? I want to upgrade to 200A for no more than $300 if I can
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I just copped 2 new 15" Alpine "Hype"-Rs for $200. Wanna play around with them & just see what all they can do. Ive always wanted to just see what they sound like cause I NEVER have.
Ive been told the lows suck for the R so what kind of box could help put for that?
7cuft box tuned to 34 or 35hz?
P.S. NOT my daily subs...
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Thats what I was trying to say. Whats EVERYTHING I need?
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Dont I aleast need RCA cables as well?
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For right now its the only amp
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I saw it on the website but I was just trying to see if they had 100% of everything I needed.
Thanks though
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Ive always had my wires installed for me but Im doing it myself now. Im puting in a Sundown 1500 in a Explorer. What all do I need? 1/0 ga wire, dist blocks, circuit breakers, etc??? I want to use Knu wires so if theres a link to a complete amp kit that would be fine.
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Pretty nice HU. You can ONLY play music with your ipod. I like the Alpine 9886 as well and you can use your ipod.
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Transmitter might have to be reprogrammed
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Get a Refurb Sundon SAZ-1500d for $320 off db-r.com
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I had the 9886 as my first HU and I LOVED it!! All the features you want and it sounds GREAT! The 9884 is nice too but I didnt like the red/blue combo. IMO it was fugly. Got mines around $200 in the net but it could be even cheaper now. I think its one of the best for the money.
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Im pretty sure there are better HU you can fin on the net for $80.
I would save a little more and get something better. There are plenty of HUs for $100-$200 that are decent.
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Lol. Thanks for the input. The kappas are suppose to be better than the reference line too so i guess im in good shape with some decent speakers.
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I have the Viper 5901 (or the Python 991 is the same thing). Got it for $230. I like it and it has all the features. You can get the 5900 as well for around $160 on the net. Dont know how cheap you trying to go but hope that helps.
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I would say either 2 Xcons or 2 BTLs. Idk which has more output.
Xcons IMO
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Anyone used this line? I have heard some good things about the Kappa line & want to know if anyone has used them themselves. I am probably going to get the later one.
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Yes the big 3 is easy, just some 1/0 gauge with terminals is all you need. Add on to your existing charging wires, its just a pain to remove them.I tend to go overboard with mine, I isolated my front battery and it acts as if it was in my trunk when it is really in my wheel well. I have 1/0 from batt (+) to a (+) post in the engine, batt (-) to a different post in the engine, alt (+) to post (+), post (-) to engine, post (-) to frame, engine (-) to frame (-). So in other words I do the "Big 6"
Can I see a pic og the Big "6" you have?
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Questions about SAZ-1500d & Electrical
in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Posted
THANKS!
That was the type of answer i was looking for! Getting the battery!