Which sub for upper bass extension?

[Which sub for upper bass extension?]

JL was sold when i last inquired about it, so I put in an order for 2 Dayton HO 15's. The pair should work well in 3.5 cubes sealed with a little bit of stuffing. I could have gone with a single 18, but 2 15's gives me a bit more cone area. Will update as soon as they arrive. 

[Which sub for upper bass extension?]

I modeled the beyma 8g40 to see how they would do ported. 

[Need 6ch amp for active setup]

I wasn't a believer of budget amps until I tried those. 

 

I'll continue to utilize them in future builds along with the NVX and Polks that share the same guts. 

[Need 6ch amp for active setup]

I don't know how some feel about budget amps, but I've been really impressed with the PPI Phantoms. And a bridged 4 channel will give you a clean 450 x 2 for under $200. 

They replaced my JL HD's & I noticed zero difference..

[Which sub for upper bass extension?]

Looking at this model, .77 @ 60hz will give me massive output down into the mid 50's. 

 

Since they're ported, should I be running a dedicated midrange with these? I don't know if I can squeeze a 6.5 into my kick panels. 

 

 

[Which sub for upper bass extension?]

I Haven't installed them yet, but in a 2 way, I'd usually bandpass the mids from 80-100 to 1khz @ 24db 

 

I am 99% happy with using those mids and horns for a 2 way set up, but I would love if i could get a sub that extended up higher than usual. 

[Which sub for upper bass extension?]

So maybe I'm not understanding this correctly. 

 

If I use a dedicated midbass such as the JL ZR800 or the Peerless SLS8, how much power will I have to dump into these to level match them with 110db HLCD's? At Best, we're looking at a difference of 23db between the JL and the horns...With 1W applied to both, i'd have to have soooooooooooooooooooooo much more power on tap for the midbass..at what point does this power do nothing for me?

 

Not to mention, these are dedicated midbass so I'd be forced to go 3 way with a 4" or 5"....am I right? I'm not seeing how this works out in the end unless I ditch the horns and go with tweeters...but I don't want to do that.  

[Which sub for upper bass extension?]

2 hours ago, Randal Johnson said:

Strange. The last pair of 8" Beymas I heard got down and dirty on midbass. But then again, they were dedicated midbass application. 

Maybe they would in this car, but they didn't in the last. They were real strong down to the 90s 

[Which sub for upper bass extension?]

5 hours ago, ///M5 said:

That is the classical trade-off in car audio.  No real way for beefy midbass without dedicated midbass drivers.  Efficiency isn't really the concern as you make that up with power.

Wouldn't power compression be an issue then? 

[Which sub for upper bass extension?]

 If I go with a dedicated midbass, I'll have to settle for something that's 82-86db & it'll be impossible for them to keep up with the horns. I'd have to go 3 way, too. Am I just asking for too much in this instance? 

 

D2 racing coilovers with different top hats allowed me to lower it around 3 inches. 

[Which sub for upper bass extension?]

Haven't been here in a while.

 

Had to make a new account since I forgot the password to my old account.

 

Anyway, I bought a Honda CRV a year ago & am now getting around to the audio portion

 

So far I have

Ipad Mini

Helix DSP

2x PPi P900.4's

1 PPI P1000.1

Beyma 8G40

and Eric Stevens Horns

 

The Beyma's are great, but they start to lose steam around 90hz, so I'm looking for a sub that can extend up higher than most to help in that area. I'll be using the P1000.1 for power & have around 4 cubic feet to work with. I found a 13w7 local for $550, but was wondering if I can do better for the dollar. I like output, but it takes a back seat to response in this build. 

And since everyone likes pics..