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Eddie33

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Posts posted by Eddie33

  3. Posted · Edited by Eddie33

    18 hours ago, ///M5 said:

    Ha, that's not rude.  Audio forum's have a tendency to attract people that can't use a tape measure which means estimating box volume is usually WAY optimistic.  If you are positive, then we can work from that.  Port size is a preference thing.  If you don't want to hear it huffing you need a larger one than if you don't care.  WinISD allows you to see this by calculating port velocity.  I personally don't trust any online ones.  Math is simple enough to calculate by hand as well, but it is so easy in WinISD.

    Sorry to hijack my own thread, but here is some of my recent work. I’m decent with a tape measure...

     

    2870637F-8630-4579-9AB7-80A6A7451075.jpeg

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  4. Posted

    22 hours ago, nigel said:

    Could you do your console idea on the floor and possibly do an external vent that runs under the rear seat so as not to take up room in the enclosure?

    This way you can still have enough air space for the larger driver you're wanting.

    Just a thought.

    I thought about this, it could be an option.

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  5. Posted

    19 hours ago, ///M5 said:

    Port eats a lot of room, don't think you are in the right realm yet.  Depends on how good your measurements are.  I would personally mock it up with cardboard or anything to make sure.  If you can't, then build the box before buying the driver so you can downsize to a 10 if you have to.


    Win ISD is the most logical choice in freeware IMO.

    Not my main occupation but I do finish carpentry and also build custom furniture. I would call myself an advanced hobbyist that enjoys woodworking. For that reason, I don’t personally see the benefit of the cardboard model for a square box in my case. I sincerely hope I’m not coming across as rude, I just wanted to explain why I am confident that my measurements are correct.  I don’t however have any experience calculating ports or know the best tuning frequency for a given subwoofer and could use help there. I appreciate the freeware you mentioned, I looked at it but would rather not download software. Is there a website with a calculator that would do what I need and give me correction information?

     

     

     

     

     

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  6. Posted · Edited by Eddie33

    So this is what I am thinking, building an enclosure to fit in the middle floor section of back. This would be a rear console enclosure if that makes sense. My internal measurements would be 16.5” wide x 16.5” deep. I can be flexible on the height but it would look better if it was also around 16.5” as that would put it even height with the front console and would be against it. I”m thinking a 12” ZCON with at least 2 cu feet net. I could use some suggestions on tuning, port type and a good calculator to get my port dimensions and make sure my volume is where I need to be. Is there any better options I’m overlooking and does my plan sound reasonable?

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  7. Posted

    20 hours ago, ///M5 said:

    On this page: https://www.foxacoustics.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DQC-212-V there is no reference to whether that is gross or net volume, the thickness of the material or very importantly the size of the port.  No way, no how would I ever buy anything that is marketed like that.  That info might be somewhere else, but I stopped looking.

    I’m with you on this. It’s apparently 5/8 MDF and they didn’t know or wouldn’t tell me anything about the port except it’s tuned to 35 HZ, which is a little higher than I would like. The volume they gave included the port, so it’s really less than the 1.55 cu feet suggested. I’m out...

     

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  8. Posted

    20 hours ago, Randal Johnson said:

    I’m more partial to a front center console, but not sure if it’s possible with that particular vehicle.

    My front center console has storage that I am unwilling to give up. Three cupholders, a place to charge and hold my phones and iPad and it also has several compartments that I really need. It’s a good idea but wouldn't work in my situation. I appreciate your input and taking time to reply.

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  11. Posted

    1 hour ago, Randal Johnson said:

    Bought my first pair of Amplifiers back in 92. 

    LOL, I remember those days when the Clarion EQs were the Shit brother !!!

    They made some good stuff back in the day. My HU had the pullout case, I wish I could remember the model number. 

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  12. Posted · Edited by Eddie33

    I could really use some advice here. I have a 2014 2500 Ram that I need to decide what route to take on subs and enclosure. This truck has two cavities in the floor area under the back bench seat. Fox Acoustics makes a box for it that’s molded to fit the area. It gives you 1.55 cu feet per side and it’s tuned to 35 HZ. You can do a pair of 10’s or 12’s but limited to a mounting depth of 7.25” and the magnet must be no more than 6.5” in diameter to work.  They also do another box that has a center console for the rear built into this box. It let’s you use 4 10’s and the box is 4.3 cu feet and tuned to 34 HZ. Mounting depth is 7” max and the magnet diameter you can use is 7” max.  I have no idea how these would sound and wanted to know if anyone here has experience using them or listened to one. The large 10” box isn’t going to be cheap by the time I buy 4 quality 10” subs and i would be really disappointed if it didnt work out for me.

    Another option I have is building a center console box for the rear. I am estimating I can easily get 2 cu feet after porting, bracing and driver volume are deducted. I could do a single 12” or a pair of 8”s. This should sound really good but I can’t see it getting as loud as the fox acoustic boxes I mentioned above. I’m not interested in building an under the seat box, it would have to be fiberglassed in and for some reason the epoxy really bothers me no matter how well the area I am working is ventilated. I’m listing the install information below, all these items are already purchased and installed. I would be open to getting another amp if power needed is over 2,000 watts RMS. I also would like to use SSA subs if possible, I like being a little different and it seemes everyone is using Sundown.

    2014 Ram Cummins diesel. 240 amp OE alternator. 2 new AGM batteries installed last month. The factory ground and cables are good sized, looks to be 1/0 but I can’t find the specs anywhere I have looked

    Kenwood Excelon DPX793 , 6.5 JBL GTO components up front, JBL GTO 6x9 3 way in rear doors powered by a Skar Audio SK-M4004D. This amp has a separate run of 4 gauge Rockville OFC going to it. My sub amp is a Skar RP-2001d. I’ve got 1/0 Rockville OFC going to it. My goals are for it to have as much bass as possible without sacrificing sound quality by using a poor build plan or subs not designed for my enclosure.  I don’t want to take any more room in the truck than I mentioned above, I have a family and the back seat is needed. I don’t necessarily have a budget but would like to keep it under 1k unless I decide to do the fox enclosure with 4 10’s, I would expect that to be around $1500 using decent quality subs. I appreciate any suggestions, I’ve been struggling with this decisions for two weeks now and could use some knowledgeable advice.

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  13. Posted

    3 hours ago, ///M5 said:

    I am still running a sub/amp I bought in 1991...although now it is in my boat :)

    What are they? I used to have a couple Solo X’s on an Lanzar Opti Drive 110001d. I miss that system the most but it would be overkill for me now.

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  16. Posted

    Hello everyone, I’m Eddie and it’s refreshing to find a helpful and informative car audio forum like yours. I started out in car audio back in 1989 with a pair of 12” MTX Terminators powered by a Fosgate Punch amp with a Clarion head unit and a Clarion EQ. I’ve owned many systems over the years and am now just getting back into car audio. I’m looking forward to learning more about the current brands and technology that’s come out the last few years while getting to know everyone here.

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